5BarVT

Indeed it does. Fills in the gaps nicely - slotting of the lever rather than the arm. I suspect it made it easier to get the pulls adjusted, although I did very little mechanical semaphore, I did learn that getting slotting of (lower) distants adjusted right was not the easiest thing. Paul.

Now I know who to ask - our mutual friend who probably took it out. Hadn’t thought about it being related to under the floor . . . . . . which, given the MR went for locking behind the levers on the operating floor, could be the derivation. Thanks to both, my education has been increased and will probably be increased further. Paul.

I can tell it’s a Sunday photo ! I enjoyed watching yesterday (I was the one who asked about Stoats Nest Jn) and came back a second time in between (guest) operating on Dallam. A very simple track plan, but it works really well. Paul.

I feel for you. I have just been sucked into that dark and contaminating world. :-) Paul.

I have also seen the term “underbolting” applied to distants (seems to be an LMS/LMR terminology, hence why I don’t know precisely what it means). Is that related to using another boxes distant cos yours isn’t far enough out? Paul.

A GF is the easiest way to implement it as it needs no other signalling (#): GF normal, operates as any other platform road; GF released, shunter in control of the platform. # - slightly more tricky if the shunter needs to go out beyond the starting signal due to insufficient length between the point and signal. Paul.

Worth asking AndyY if he can change the email for your current account. May or may not be possible, but worth asking. Paul.

BOX OPENING REPORT I opened my latest delivery while my wife was present. ”What’s that?” ”A loudspeaker.” “You’re doing sound?” (Eyebrows were raised significantly as this comment was made) ”I thought you said sound was only for Saddo’s.” She’s technical and can see what I’m up to very easily. And, yes, I probably have said that in the past. Sorry folks. Paul.

Thank you SRman, just the confirmation I was hoping for. Paul.

OFF TO THE DARK(er) SIDE A couple of weeks ago I was able to operate a Hymek fitted with Legoman sound. I rather enjoyed it. Oh dear! Some investment in a few bits and pieces have given me yet another excuse to delay building my layout. It may be sometime . . . Paul.

Morning all, About to start dabbling in sound. My wallet blames a Hymek fitted with Legoman sound that I was able to operate a couple of weeks ago! I’m starting with Loksound v5 as I have access to a Lokprogrammer. I have read the manual and understand how it works with function mapping and sound slots (whether my understanding survives first contact with a chip remains to be seen). I have JMRI at home so don’t need to do CV by CV from a command station. My two questions (for the moment): 1) What is the impedance of the pre fitted sugar cube that comes with a Loksound v5 - 4 or 8 ohms? 2) Do sound projects come with the function keys ‘locked’ or is it possible to change them (to make it easier when I have sounds from different suppliers whose default F keys are not the same)? TIA Paul.

I used to do 2x1 framing which was enough to hide an H&M solenoid. When I moved to tortoise it was a new layout so I went for 4” ply frames (actually 100mm, but I’m so old that I’m bilingual!). None of the helps you, but your solution is very elegant. Well done. Paul.

For hidden areas, 12mm No.4 slotted brass CSK with pilot holes (after a few broke when I was screwing them in). For scenic areas I have some No.1 screws as the head size is the same as code 100 rail. Other just use larger and cut off the excess with a cutting disc after soldering. Make sure the screw head and the rail bottom are well tinned. Paul.

Fun, isn’t it. I haven’t been back to mine to update it for some time. Gets even more fun when you have computer based train operation because it all has to be converted into the operating system . . . I have started, but I haven’t finished! Paul.

New holes with tightly fitting bolts, probably not. Depending how often you separate and rejoin the bolt holes will wear. I think you will be glad you added them in due course. :-) Paul.