5BarVT

P.S. Listening to horn and start up sounds on Roads & Rails and Abottswood suggest that it isn’t SWD, Coastal, Jamie Goodman, Legomanbif, or Howes. I’m discounting Youchoos as they seem to be all Zimo chips. Paul.

‘Cos a terminal station is far more interesting operationally? Paul.

Once you’ve got the switch rail back in position there are two things you can do. One is a suitable piece of styrene strip between the toes side of the tie bar and the adjacent sleeper (as you have described). Can’t be too tight as you still want the switches to move! The second is to fit the cobalts (I use tortoise, but same difference) slightly offset towards the heel of the switch blade so that the operating wire is constantly pressing the switch rail back into position. They are not incompatible, so you can do both. Paul.

I have bought a s/h sound fitted loco - Bachmann 31-656 D1677 Thor. As far as I can tell this was not available in an OEM Sound fitted version. The product number when I purchased was suffixed CSF which I assume is “Customer Sound Fitted”. This is consistent (in my mind) with the decider being a Locksound v4 with a production date of 2013 I’m interested in finding out whose sound project it was so I’m listing the functions to see if anyone recognises the format (assuming that the previous owner hadn’t modified them!). In the JMRI Information tab the name is just ”Class 47” F0 - Head/tail lights F1 - Sound on/off F2 - Low horn F3 - Low-high-low horn F4 - Brakes on / release (latching function with separate, slightly different sounds for on and off) F5 - Compressor F6 - Coupling clank F7 - Shunting mode F8 - Cab lights F9 - Wheel squeal F10 - Spirax valve? (The characteristic clicking when shut down.) F11 - Failed start F12 - Mute volume Does anyone recognise the function allocations, or the e.g. style of horns, and can identify the creator? TIA Paul.

Indeed it does. Fills in the gaps nicely - slotting of the lever rather than the arm. I suspect it made it easier to get the pulls adjusted, although I did very little mechanical semaphore, I did learn that getting slotting of (lower) distants adjusted right was not the easiest thing. Paul.

Now I know who to ask - our mutual friend who probably took it out. Hadn’t thought about it being related to under the floor . . . . . . which, given the MR went for locking behind the levers on the operating floor, could be the derivation. Thanks to both, my education has been increased and will probably be increased further. Paul.

I can tell it’s a Sunday photo ! I enjoyed watching yesterday (I was the one who asked about Stoats Nest Jn) and came back a second time in between (guest) operating on Dallam. A very simple track plan, but it works really well. Paul.

I feel for you. I have just been sucked into that dark and contaminating world. :-) Paul.

I have also seen the term “underbolting” applied to distants (seems to be an LMS/LMR terminology, hence why I don’t know precisely what it means). Is that related to using another boxes distant cos yours isn’t far enough out? Paul.

A GF is the easiest way to implement it as it needs no other signalling (#): GF normal, operates as any other platform road; GF released, shunter in control of the platform. # - slightly more tricky if the shunter needs to go out beyond the starting signal due to insufficient length between the point and signal. Paul.

Worth asking AndyY if he can change the email for your current account. May or may not be possible, but worth asking. Paul.

BOX OPENING REPORT I opened my latest delivery while my wife was present. ”What’s that?” ”A loudspeaker.” “You’re doing sound?” (Eyebrows were raised significantly as this comment was made) ”I thought you said sound was only for Saddo’s.” She’s technical and can see what I’m up to very easily. And, yes, I probably have said that in the past. Sorry folks. Paul.

Thank you SRman, just the confirmation I was hoping for. Paul.

OFF TO THE DARK(er) SIDE A couple of weeks ago I was able to operate a Hymek fitted with Legoman sound. I rather enjoyed it. Oh dear! Some investment in a few bits and pieces have given me yet another excuse to delay building my layout. It may be sometime . . . Paul.

Morning all, About to start dabbling in sound. My wallet blames a Hymek fitted with Legoman sound that I was able to operate a couple of weeks ago! I’m starting with Loksound v5 as I have access to a Lokprogrammer. I have read the manual and understand how it works with function mapping and sound slots (whether my understanding survives first contact with a chip remains to be seen). I have JMRI at home so don’t need to do CV by CV from a command station. My two questions (for the moment): 1) What is the impedance of the pre fitted sugar cube that comes with a Loksound v5 - 4 or 8 ohms? 2) Do sound projects come with the function keys ‘locked’ or is it possible to change them (to make it easier when I have sounds from different suppliers whose default F keys are not the same)? TIA Paul.

I used to do 2x1 framing which was enough to hide an H&M solenoid. When I moved to tortoise it was a new layout so I went for 4” ply frames (actually 100mm, but I’m so old that I’m bilingual!). None of the helps you, but your solution is very elegant. Well done. Paul.

For hidden areas, 12mm No.4 slotted brass CSK with pilot holes (after a few broke when I was screwing them in). For scenic areas I have some No.1 screws as the head size is the same as code 100 rail. Other just use larger and cut off the excess with a cutting disc after soldering. Make sure the screw head and the rail bottom are well tinned. Paul.

Fun, isn’t it. I haven’t been back to mine to update it for some time. Gets even more fun when you have computer based train operation because it all has to be converted into the operating system . . . I have started, but I haven’t finished! Paul.

New holes with tightly fitting bolts, probably not. Depending how often you separate and rejoin the bolt holes will wear. I think you will be glad you added them in due course. :-) Paul.

Agreed. Takes a while to get used to it but then becomes natural! Paul.

Like your wiring philosophy - mainly because it’s the same as mine! Clean at the front, dirty at the back and try and keep them separate as much as possible. Like you, I have one set of boards where (due to the supports) it’s not quite so easy, but it happens to be close to the control box so the ‘clean’ wiring will be separated along rather than across the board. Paul.

Prompted by the above, I’ve been into NLS maps. Yes, the distances between the boxes on the triangle mean that requiring all signals clear at both boxes (Clipstone E plus Clipstone S or N (or is it W?)) before clearing the relevant lower distant on 5 is quite possible. Further explanation of slotting required! Lever 44 will prove 40, 42, 43 reverse using mechanical locking in the box. At the bottom of the post are three balance levers, one for the stop arm exactly as normal. This is operated by the lever in Clipstone E and clears the stop arm. A second operated by lever 44 at Edwinstowe isn’t connected to anything. In between the two is a third (with the balance weight stuck out in the opposite direction) connected to the distant arm and has a plate that passes across the other two. That plate prevents the distant arm moving until both of the other balance levers are off. It’s working as a mechanical .AND. gate - both levers (one in Clipstone E and 44 in Edwinstowe) must be pulled before the distant arm will respond. Paul.

Almost, but not quite! All stop signals need to be off before the distant can be cleared - for 44 that means 43, 42 and 40. But pulling lever 44 won’t actually clear the distant unless the stop arm above it is also off (but only that stop arm). Going the other way, when the all the stop signals are off at the next box (depending on the routing as it is a splitting distant) the the distant lever can be cleared, but the arm won’t move until 5 is off. 1 requires 2, 3 and 5 off. I’m wondering whether I’m correct about the ‘next two boxes’ for 5 - it may be that the company concerned just used that symbol for any form of slotting and it’s just referring to 5 and one other box. (In the practice with which I was trained, slotting of lower distants was assumed because there was a stop arm shown, the symbol was only used where it wouldn’t otherwise be apparent - usually stop arms shared by two boxes.) Paul.

That symbol indicates slotting - operation by more than one signalbox. The lower one is operated by lever 44 in the box for which you have the diagram and the next box along (further to the left). The upper one is operated by the next two boxes to the right. It will be because the boxes are close together and there is insufficient braking distance, so both of the relevant boxes need all of their stop signals cleared before the distant can come off. Only one arm, but more gubbins at the bottom of the post. Paul.

Top’n’tail loco? Paul.