desiro450

Yes - I noticed….I searched through them all but couldn’t find the answers to my specific questions.

After 5 or so hours I’ve had a look and it would appear that I’m making some progress. The IPA has removed paint from the brass details and softened some of the body side paint. I noticed I’ve left finger prints all over the body shell. I assume this won’t be an issue the more the paint softens and is subsequently removed with the toothbrush? Kinda nerve racking but I think I’m getting somewhere!

Hi all, I realise there’s probably more methods to strip paint than there are members on RMWeb! I’ve currently got a Hornby class 56 (newer version) soaking away in a bath of 99.9% IPA. It’s been submerged for around an hour but absolutely nothing has budged and the IPA is still perfectly clear. Having read the other topics, I’ve learnt that patience is a virtue, but some topics mention IPA stripping paint in a matter of minutes, others recommend an overnight bath. Ironically, a rogue drip of IPA took a micro second to remove the print design from the IKEA ziplock bag it’s sitting in. My question is, should something/anything have happened by now? At what point do I switch tactics and introduce Mr Muscle? Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers!

Immaculate 66108 runs through Eastleigh. Dated early June 1999. Couldn't have had many miles on the clock! (My photo).

Hi All, I know this topic has been covered a number of times before, I've searched through the forums but it seems a lot of the images are missing since the recent RMweb image issue. Google/Flickr helped a little. How should I be painting Peco rail type buffer stops for use on a modern day depot/shunting shelf? Southern region, present day-ish. I have 7 to do, 3 at one end of the shelf and 4 at the other. I figured that for variety, I could paint two styles. My first thoughts were that there isn't really a right/wrong way to paint them but after some research - that might not be the case. I might even have painted the first one round the wrong way? The other style I had in mind is similar to this one found on Neil Smith's Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/10152260@N05/52089714468/in/photolist-2nmZpkj Any pointers would be great!

A focus-stacked image of an urban scene? Taken last May after an absolutely torrential downpour. I guess it's a combination of the sky, lighting and wetness.

Ah yes. New day - fresh eyes. A track feed at the toe of each turnout should do it? Having thought about it a bit more, I doubt if I will proceed with the idea of DCC. As I've mentioned, the project is the best compromise I could come up with to avoid receiving a Hornby starter set for Christmas. The Coca Cola one if you please! It'll have it's uses though, a practice piece to stand me in good stead for a larger layout when space permits. I will definitely use on/off switches as you mention.

Hope everyone's start to 2023 has been a good one! Since my last post, the festive period came through and provided the foundations for the Ikea plank and the track plan kindly suggested by RobinofLoxley (Thank you!) Initially, things will now be DC. I understand the need to wire up track sections to make sure I don't create dead areas by flicking points but I'm still trying to work out which sections would be best to receive power, all turnouts are insulfrog. I reckon I could get away with three track connections, so the initial plan is to solder wires to all three lines in cell 11? (see the attached image). Am I missing anything obvious? If I was to convert to DCC at a later date - I understand that I would need to wire up all track sections. Unfortunately given my space constraints and the non-permanent nature of this plank... I won't be using powered points or any other fancy gizmos or accessories. Any hints, tips or suggestions are gratefully received.

Thank you for taking the time to draw up a plan. I like really it. I wouldn't have thought to use threeway points in that configuration. The genesis for this project was a rather large rectangular box appearing under the Christmas tree.... Suspecting I'd been bought a Hornby starter set, I needed to intervene and come up with an alternative so as to not hurt feelings - Enter my little plank! Thankfully the partner took it rather well.... I think I've decided to dabble with the world of DCC with this one, sound will add an extra dimension to something so compact. I'm currently discovering the rabbit holes of DCC. This forum has proved invaluable along with some of the other separate blogs. I have found some conflicting information... Without wanting to invest huge amounts. I'm thinking of purchasing a Hornby Digital Select controller, I can pick one up for under £100 it seems. Would that be sufficient? I don't plan on using a bus wire, so I've learnt that using point clips (or soldering wire underneath) will be needed. This seems straightforward for LR & RH turnouts but the threeways look a little more complicated. Is it doable with clips or are more drastic measures required? Many thanks!

Thank you both. I appreciate your input. I've come up with a third plan which strips things back and focusses on short trains entering from a 3-4 road fiddle yard. I won't have space for the additional board for a while but this plan would still allow for somewhat realistic shunting moves. Colin, I like your vision. The additional board would certainly make the second plan more useable and entertaining.

Thank you for your reply. You are quite right, I based the original design on being able to accommodate stock I liked, however on reflection it would be better to base the design on functionality given the available space. I've incorporated a runaround in this second design and tried to keep headhunts to at least 30cm. I'm going to stick with 00 as I'm invested in the scale from my previous layout in the parent's garage. Sadly the space was reclaimed and the layout dismantled a number of years ago. I think perhaps investing in DCC might also add to the operational interest. I like the idea of perhaps having a sound fitted 08 I can run about.

Hello Everyone, I'm returning to the hobby after more than a decade and I'm feeling rather rusty! I'd like to create a small 00 gauge depot scene on an Ikea Lack shelf. The largest of the range - 190x26cm. Given the size constraints I'm trying to keep things simple. There's not much scope for 'operations' bar shuffling between sidings so I'm prepared to end up with little more than a diorama. I've had a play with RailModeller Express and come up with the attached. Can the more experienced spot anything wrong with my plan? The red boxes represent an estimate as to how much space a RHTT set with two 73's would occupy. I'm still deciding on a theme but I've narrowed it down to perhaps an RHTT servicing depot or locomotive depot like Leicester. Present day. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. It's good to be back enjoying the hobby again!

Great shot! I've tried and failed many times to get a DC 60. It's not often they travel through Kensington Olympia. Having had a quick squiz on RTT, I assume the Chessington path is not a frequent one?

Hi everyone, Quite possibly a long-shot but as the title suggests, I'm looking to date a collection of negatives I've recently scanned. On this particular day I assume 4-CEP 1602 departed Eastleigh works after its repair and repaint into Connex livery; hauled by 73202 with what looks to be a class 205 also in tow. 1602 was the only CEP to be painted in Connex livery. On the same day, 73133 and 73136 were observed on a ballast working from the South to Eastleigh yard. I've attached a photo of them running back through the station after dropping off the wagons. I've done some research and found that 1602 had its black front repainted to full yellow shortly after July 1999. Meaning that these images could be from between April to June 1999. Any help would be appreciated. If anyone would like to see more images, I could start a new topic in the appropriate forum? There was some cracking stuff about when I was younger... I was 9 when the two attached images were taken! All the best, Matt

The BMAC light cluster looks about right to my eyes. I guess the black surround creates the optical illusion that both the head and tail light apertures are the same size. They aren't! Really liking the look of this! Kind regards, Matt