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BSW01 last won the day on October 22 2018

BSW01 had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Southwest Manchester, either in the workshop, the cellar or the garden.
  • Interests
    Mainly SR 00 gauge steam, early 1930's - to the end of 1947, but I'll run anything else that takes my fancy!

    My other interests include model making in general, building R/C model boats, wine, painting, (the Avatar is one of mine), wine, drawing, music, wine, oh and did I mention wine!

    I also enjoy swimming, particularly open water, but only when the Weather is warm(ish)! No ice breaking for me thank you very much!

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  1. Jack I've just taken a few more photos, the lighting is a bit better on these. I've concentrated on the areas that I've worked on. I do need to touch up the pipework under the cab, I'll add that to my to do list. Hope they help Brian
  2. Hi Jack As I was painting directly on the Hornby body, it was either the factory finished paintwork, or the bare (black) plastic where the paint had come off with the numbers etc. As I was only doing small areas I used a brush, a size 1 sable, the areas I painted are around the crest, around name plate, the cab sides and tender sides. This loco was originally ‘92 Squadron’ in BR malachite green, so the BR cab-side number and tender lettering (British Railways) had to be removed. Also as the original name was longer than the new one, there were holes that I had to fill in on the body and then repaint the area. I used the cladding panel lines for the area around the name plate and crest as my start and finish points, and the whole side between the yellow lines on the cab side and tender. I used low tack masking tape to protect the areas I wasn’t painting. Like yours, mine also wasn’t DCC ready, but I modified the chassis block and fitted an 8 pin socket. I then fitted a Hornby merchant navy sound chip with a cut down speaker housing. I’ve managed to find one photo, but I’m afraid the quality isn’t great, (the lighting was very poor) but it does gives you a bit of an idea of the colour match. All my loco's are in storage at the moment, but I’ll try and dig out tomorrow and take some fresh photos. Brian.
  3. HUMBROL acrylic malachite green is as close to spot on as you can get. It's what I've used when re-numbering my locos and you'd be hard pushed to see where the original colour ends and the new starts. Brian
  4. I’m glad they helped, I took them for the same reason that you wanted them for as I have the D class kit in my to build pile!
  5. Hi Bryan If you click on my avatar and then take a look at the albums I’ve posted, there are dozens of shots of the D class at the NRM at York that I took when I visited there a few years ago. I’m not sure if it’s exactly what you’re looking for, but there are a couple of shots of the reversing cylinder itself, I hope there of use. Regards Brian
  6. A few years ago, I read on another thread on here (I’m sorry but I can’t remember who’s it was) a method to disguise the screw heads. He used small discs of paper sprayed the same colour (and at the same time) as the loco. These were then glued over the screw heads to hide them. They could easily be removed with a knife if necessary later.
  7. I shall follow with interest what you do to modify the I3 and it’s chassis, as I have one of these (along with the etched chassis too) in a box awaiting construction. Regards Brian
  8. Hi dave I use a very similar method myself when soldering up valve gear, but I add a small drop of oil to the paper, which I find helps to stop the solder for getting where you don’t want it to get. I do like the countersinking idea though, I might try that next time.
  9. Jack Here are a few more photos of my work on the Langley L class, mainly my upgrade of the bogies The original cast bogie, completely devoid of any detail, I thinned the width down to add etched sides. The lovely etched Comet bogies (available in 2 sizes) are either too long, or too short, so I went for the long ones. I just used the detailed overlay, which I cut to reduce the length to match the cast bogie. The three pieces are then soldered to the side of the cast bogie. Finally cleaned up and with wheels added. And just like Ernie Wise’s hair, you can’t see the join!
  10. I’ve not got any photos of a Nu-cast N15X, but I’ve included one of the original Langley L class. When Maunsell rebuilt them, he kept as much of the original loco as he could. I hope it helps
  11. Gibson will make their frames with either cut outs for horn blocks or holes for bearings, you just tell him which you prefer when you place the order as they are made to order. I got a pair of frames for a K class a few years ago, although they are plain, like your N15X frames, they are very good when compared to the drawings.
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