BSW01

You lucky ******, I'm not jealous at all, honestly!

Since this morning, when I logged in first thing using this iPad, (pop up there again!), I’ve been using my phone (a Huawei) to access the site, not had any trouble and no pop ups. I logged in this evening using my iPad and it worked without the pop up showing up! Hooray.

There are a couple of ways to do this, 1/ use a long thin piece of copperclad board, cut a groove down the centre, so that there is a left and right side, make sure you cut all the way through the copper. Each side is now isolated from the other. Use one side for each of the pick ups, solder the pick up and a wire to each side, the other end of the wires to the motor terminals. Or 2/ use a piece of plasticard, drill 2 small holes, then using a small nut and bolt, attach the pick up, then wire each to the plasticard, the other end of the wire to the motor terminal.

The minimum you'll need is some sort of pick up system, fine brass wire, bent to rub on the sides or backs of the drive wheels. Each wire should be electrically isolated from the other then each connected to one of the two motor terminals. Finally a worm gear on the motor and drive gear on one axle. Hope that helps

The new management didn't have a model railway background and didn't know what they were. They just saw shelves holding lots of lumps of metal and so scrapped them!

Although I’m not using an arduino controlling the turntable, for the positioning I’m using photo interrupts (detectors). There very easy to set up, just a short length of wire, I’m using 0.8mm brass and they're not overly expensive, I paid just over £6 for 5 from Rapid Electronics. As I’m using relays I had to design an amplifier circuit, but I doubt you’d need one. The left hand board is the interrupter, the right hand the control relay. The actuator pin from above. The actuator from the side. The interrupter operates when it pass

Jack I've just taken a few more photos, the lighting is a bit better on these. I've concentrated on the areas that I've worked on. I do need to touch up the pipework under the cab, I'll add that to my to do list. Hope they help Brian

Hi Jack As I was painting directly on the Hornby body, it was either the factory finished paintwork, or the bare (black) plastic where the paint had come off with the numbers etc. As I was only doing small areas I used a brush, a size 1 sable, the areas I painted are around the crest, around name plate, the cab sides and tender sides. This loco was originally ‘92 Squadron’ in BR malachite green, so the BR cab-side number and tender lettering (British Railways) had to be removed. Also as the original name was longer than the new one, there were holes that I had to fill in on the bod

HUMBROL acrylic malachite green is as close to spot on as you can get. It's what I've used when re-numbering my locos and you'd be hard pushed to see where the original colour ends and the new starts. Brian

I’m glad they helped, I took them for the same reason that you wanted them for as I have the D class kit in my to build pile!

Hi Bryan If you click on my avatar and then take a look at the albums I’ve posted, there are dozens of shots of the D class at the NRM at York that I took when I visited there a few years ago. I’m not sure if it’s exactly what you’re looking for, but there are a couple of shots of the reversing cylinder itself, I hope there of use. Regards Brian

A few years ago, I read on another thread on here (I’m sorry but I can’t remember who’s it was) a method to disguise the screw heads. He used small discs of paper sprayed the same colour (and at the same time) as the loco. These were then glued over the screw heads to hide them. They could easily be removed with a knife if necessary later.

I shall follow with interest what you do to modify the I3 and it’s chassis, as I have one of these (along with the etched chassis too) in a box awaiting construction. Regards Brian

Congratulations Alex.

Hi dave I use a very similar method myself when soldering up valve gear, but I add a small drop of oil to the paper, which I find helps to stop the solder for getting where you don’t want it to get. I do like the countersinking idea though, I might try that next time.