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    Orgreave Coke Works, Sheffield

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  1. Ian J, Nice bit of drawing work there. I'll bet your eyes 'hurt' a bit after all that drawing. One bit I don't understand (although it might have been explained earlier) is the logic behind splitting the 3 cables from the CANUSB4 into PD1 and the 3-sided connector, and then splitting the 4 cables from the SPROG4 in a similar way. Why not put the 3 cables from the CANUSB4 through PD1 and all the 4 cables from the SPROG4 through the 3 sided connector? I'd have thought it would be easier to troubleshoot. Ian
  2. Andi, Sorry to drag up this old posting of yours, but I can't get the links to the 'old' RMWeb to work. Any chance you could provide some details of your HAA 'modifications'. Thanks. Ian
  3. My arrangement is separate power bus for turnouts (servos operated by MegaPoints controllers) and tracks with several power districts, each with a MERG short circuit device (SCD). The controller is an NCE PowerCab. I get a short when I trail an electrofrog turnout with the switch incorrectly set (human error each time), and the MERG SCD buzzer for that district sounds, and power to that district is cut. I press the button on the turnout mimic panel to operate the switch, the SCD clears the short automatically, and control is resumed by the PowerCab without me having to do anything. The loco just moves off with the same DCC settings (although the end lights do need resetting). So, using separate power supplies (and the MRG SCD) means that the 'hand of God' can be avoided. Ian
  4. Martyn, You do have a 'knack' for noticing small differences between Classes (and coaches). I had to get out my little 1982 Bradford Barton 'booklet' called 'BR Class 24/25 Diesels' and consult my old 'Combined Volumes' to observe the differences you noted. As to the 'correction work', I'd be tempted to cut as shown in green below. It involves less cutting length, and should give less 'distortion' once you raise the cutout part by the requisite ~1mm. Also, the main body of the loco is not compromised by the cutting. Great work by the way. Ian
  5. Martyn, Glad to hear you liked my coach 'fettling', complete with passengers. Having put passengers in 1 coach, I'll have to see whether I'll go back and add passengers to some other coaches in due course. I've been watching your recent postings of Hornby Class 25 modifications with interest, as I have pair that could do with the same treatment. I'd be adding more weight at the same time to enable them to pull more than their own weight up my gradients. The Mk2c conversion is maybe more difficult that I first imagined. I must have seen hundreds of Mk2c and never noticed the different toilet windows! I looked back through my 'BR Mark 2 Coaches' book (Micheal Harris), and not only has he got the 1978 Exeter photo description wrong on page 62 (it says Mk2b nearest, ahead of a Mk2c, when the nearest one is clearly a Mk2 or 2a, and the next one is a Mk2b, plus Mk2c were almost exclusively on the WCML at that time), but all the photos of Mk2c in the book are on the non-lavatory side. At least the Diagrams show the different toilet window. The same Diagrams also highlight the different roof vents (number, shape and location). Conversion of a Lima Mk2b to a Mk2c suddenly looks a lot harder. And, yes, it would probably involve a re-paint to boot. Ian
  6. Another Lima Coach Fettling Completed Following re-assembly, installation of Kadee couplings (#156 type), and placement of transfers the Lima Mk2f is complete. Although I don't have any of the newer Hornby and/or Bachmann Mk2 airconditioned coaches for compariosn (my mortgage wouldn't stretch that far), I think these old Lima Mk2 coaches are quite acceptable once a little, cheap, fettling has been done to them. Ian
  7. Another Lima Coach Fettled I know that I really should be getting on with weathering of the track on my layout, but I'm concerned that my total lack of experience with an airbrush, acrylic paints, and the hot weather will combine to produce some truly awful results; and that's only on the 'test panel'. So here we go with another coach fettling, this time a Lima Mk2f , a model I didn't even realise they'd made. It's amazing what you find browsing on TheBay. It's getting all my usual treatments; SE Finecast windows (a packet I bought years back as it was cheap but for which I had no use at the time), painted interior, corrected vestibule ends (toilet area), passengers (after some proding by Rob), end door painted, coach end transfers (OHLE & 'C1'), and Kadee couplings. Here is some photos of progress with the interior; SE Finecast windows fitted, interior painted, passengers added, and vestibule area corrected: I wanted to simply leave the existing Lima 'window glazing', but it's too 'frosted' and obscures the interior. It was therefore carefully 'carved' to keep the retaining lugs and enough at each end to stop the interior moulding moving around (and provide the obscured glazing for the toilet windows): Ian
  8. Andy, I'd only consider it in a non-scenic element of the layout as it's hard enough trying to disguise 4 brass screws, let alone 8. I suppose if you have a really tight curve, say, less than 2nd radius, then it might be necessary. Myself, I have a couple of 2nd radius curves at baseboard joins (yes, I know, poor planning on my part) and I've had no problems with just the usual 4 brass screws. Ian
  9. Andy, I'd add a couple of QC checks. I'm sure you'd check the horizontal alignment before gluing, but it's equally important (possible more so?) to check the vertical alignment. Just use a steel ruler and look for any 'rocking' over the brass screws. If you are using cork underlay you'll not get the next problem, but I did find that using foam underlay can easily result in a vertical 'kink' due to the track lowering under the weight of any load placed on the track to keep it in place during gluing and then staying like that. Ian
  10. I 'try' to align the slot perpendicular to the track centreline as this provides a nice 'groove' to insert the solder. I place the soldering iron on the opposite side of the rail, thus ensuring that the solder gets under the full rail foot width. As I don't bother with tinning either the rail foot (too much of a hastle) or the top of the brass screw (I 'imagine' that it might upset the vertical alignment while gluing the track down), I paint some flux between the rail foot and the brass screw with a small paintbrush. I'm also a bit 'over enthusiastic' or 'heavy handed' with the solder, as I really don't want it to come apart. Thus, in a number of instances, the solder has actually 'bridged' between the brass screws on either side of the baseboard joint. Hence the resulting 'issues' with cutting of the solder. I have quite a few curves running across the baseboard joins, and so place the brass screws as close as I can to the edge of the baseboard. This usually means <5mm. The longer the 'overhang' the more pronounced the resulting 'kink' is in the curve. Ian
  11. I did see that posting, or at least an equivalent that did the same trick. I even had a go myself on a secondhand SetTrack turnout, but decided that my 'skills' (stop laughing ...) were inadequate for the task. Plus, I had quite a few, expensive, double & single slips to tackle and I just couldn't justify the risk, even if I probably would have been quite good at it by the final slip (and the bin was full of discarded Peco bits). Thankfully, the electrofrog conversion has proved to be an adequate compromise. Ian
  12. Paul, Indeed yes, the flexishaft is a real necessity for this job. I did once try using a larger ~50mm cutting disc to overcome the height issue, but it wobbled so much that it was impossible to use. Even with a flexishaft, the grinding discs need to be treated with care as they have a nasty tendency to 'explode' if you get the rotating axis 'off line', meaning the disc has to bend. Yep, I found out the hard way ... Another issue with grinding discs is that they don't like cutting solder. I have my rail ends (at baseboard joins) soldered to brass screws driven into the top of the baseboard. Sometimes the solder 'flows' along the underside of the rail and so needs to be cut. A grinding disc will 'clog' with the solder very quickly and become useless as the cutting surface is now smooth. I did throw those discs away until I found I could sand/file off the solder using a small file, putting the disc back to cutting status again. Ian
  13. Pete, Ah, that's one step I omitted to mention. Oops. On the underside of an insulfrog turnout, there are two jumper wires between the 'intermediate rails' and the 'crossing vee rails'. I snipped those, and twisted the two bits together that were affixed to the 'crossing vee rails'. It was to those twisted wires that I soldered the 'green' wires in the diagram, effectively converting the insulfrog into a 'sort of' electrofrog (but for which the 'wing rails' remain unpowered). I hope this clarifies? Ian
  14. If all of your locos have pickups on all axles, and your shortest loco is longer than the frog of the slip, then in theory no. However, if you want to ensure good, smooth, running through the slip then powering the frog is essential. I found that the wiring is really not that complicated and, as my diagram showed, it can be reduced to a 2 wire input. Once you understand one slip, it makes a junction a bit easier to understand and wire. Here is my Leicester Line Junction. Yes, there is a baseboard joint in the middle, just to make it a bit harder: If you want to see the underside of the two baseboards, let me know. Ian
  15. Paul, Not sure how you plan to grind the rail back, but my preferred method is; assemble the baseboards, mark the exact line of the cut with a marker, and then use a ~1mm grinding disk in my 'dremel' (with flexishaft drive) to make a nice vertical cut. The 'gap' is then the thickness of the grinding disk. I'm assuming that the rails are already in perfect vertical and horizontal alignment. Ian
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