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    Near the Midland Rly 'Old Road', Sheffield

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  1. Matt, The best method is always the one you can understand and follow.
  2. Matt, Much improved, with less 'dangly wires' to snag on the rolling stock or your sleeves. Are you not following the common (?) practice of 'back to black' for wiring - by which I mean the black wire goes on the rail to the 'back'? Mind you, you may have a better scheme ...
  3. Scott, Were you working on the Taiwan High Speed Rail project?
  4. I got mine from Switch Electronics (https://www.switchelectronics.co.uk/) also trading on eBay as LED-essential (https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/led-essential?_trksid=p2047675.l2559). Strangely, the prices are not the same from the 2 places, one will be cheaper than the other - from the same supplier! Good for us buyers though ... I bought their model 123003 "18mm Lever Sub—Miniature Microswitch SPDT" at ~20p each. Have used them for quite a few electrical bits for my layout (just a happy customer ...).
  5. A Little Freightliner Project Recently I made a purchase through an online auction, the type where you bid live online or in the auction house. Quite an interesting experience. I only bid because the actual auction was only a few miles away, so I could go there to collect, otherwise the postage would have been prohibitive. What I ended up with was a box containing: 8x Hornby R633 freightliner wagons 1x Hornby R719 freightliner wagon (same as R633 but moulded in blue/teal plastic) & missing 2 wheelsets 12x 40ft containers 9x 20ft containers 1x Hornby R6485 KFA freightliner wagon c/w NOL container (20ft) and P&O container (40ft) Quite a nice little auction Lot. The R719 is not of much use, but it may come in useful for 'spares' at some point in the future. Ditto the R6485, which doesn't fit in with my 1970s era. I may have to put the unboxed R6485 on TheBay and recover a few pennies. The 8x R633 were treated to some 'improvements' (?). Firstly I had to get the containers off the wagons. Why do people glue them on? . Once free of their loads, I found that the wagons were really light. Too light. This was rectified by adding some lead weights to the body and the bogies. Lead weight, cut from a ~2mm sheet. Weight added to inside of bogie: Weight was also added to the body. I used superglue + bicarbonate of soda as this 'builds up' and physically prevents the weights falling out. Next the couplings were cut off, leaving a stub of plastic to which Kadee couplers could be attached. Yep, that mess on the surface is the results of gluing on the containers. Yuck. Thankfully, it's not that visible when the wagons are on the layout. With having 8x R633 I decided it would be a good idea to convert 4 of them from FFA to FGA, by adding the buffers to the outer ends of the wagon. Now I know the buffers should be 'above' the bed of the wagon (I did check quite a few photos), but this is not possible with the R633 as Hornby set the bed of the wagon too high. I therefore had to 'compromise'. FGA modification to R633. I can now create 2 'sets' comprising FGA+FFA+FFA+FGA. In an ideal world there would be 3x FFA, but I only have 8 wagons total, and my layout couldn't handle a 10-wagon length anyway! It does make for quite an impressive trainload. Finally, the wagons were treated to some FFA / FGA transfers with individual numbering. I did want to have a freightliner train on the layout, but looking at TheBay and retailers, the wagons were going to cost quite a lot. I was fortunate that a local auction had a suitable Lot from which I could start this project.
  6. Matt, Watched the video up/down the inclines using your 'cube cam'. As usual you are doing it right using a 'proper' camera. I did the same thing myself in early November but my camera, although physically the same size (2cm cube) cost only £6.25 from the interweb. Hence the quality of my video wasn't anything like as good. I also found that a static 'lineside' video with passing trains was very effective. Just plonk the cube cam next to the track, aimed suitably, and run a few trains past. ---------------------------------------- Can you clarify the arrangement of your upper levels. From the video it appears that one side of the garage is the 'scenic' element, but that the other side is just the top of the inclines. Is that correct, because it does seem to limit the scenic area.
  7. Nice to see that 'rail blue' was such a varied colour ... Keeps some modellers busy for hours weathering ...
  8. Paul, Slide scanning speed will depend on your scanner, its type, its connection to your computer and the DPI you set it to. My 50/hr is based on a vintage (~2003?) Konica Minolta DiMage Scan Dual IV, with a max DPI of 3200, connected by USB2. It's a purpose designed slide scanner, and takes a 'tray' of 4 slides at a time. With my scan settings of 3200 DPI it takes 1 minute (ish) for each slide, so a tray of 4 takes around 5 minutes (allowing for unloading / reloading), hence the ~50/hr figure (if I can keep up and maintain concentration! ). It's a boring process so best to have something to watch on YouTube or TV . I've previous experience of cleaning negatives when I did ~7,500 back in 2003/04 using the same machines. For negatives I wiped them under luke warm water using my, soft (?), fingers and then hung them up to dry on an indoor washing line, remembering to wipe clear the water drops that form at the lowest point. For the current project of slide scanning the mould is nothing like as bad as the negatives were, and I've found that a cotton bud dipped in water can be used to gently clean the 'back' of the slides (the mould is always on the 'back' - where the actual picture is formed). I then wipe them over with a new and clean soft cheap microfibre cloth to dry them to between 80% & 90%. No need to rub hard and get them 100% dry, this can lead to scratches. These then stand (stacked actually ...) for about 5-minutes (while the previous tray of 4 slides scan) for them to completely dry. I generally keep cleaning while the scanning proceeds until I've a good stack ready. When I mount them into the tray I clean both sides of the slides with a soft brush (a typical makeup type brush) and then blow them over with one of those squeezy air-blowers (the ones you used to get to clean lenses on cameras) to get any dust or hairs off the slides. Progress goes in fits-and-starts, but the overall process works well. I've also noticed that the film type of the slides affects the propensity for mould to form. FujiFilm seems the worse, and Kodak the least affected, with Agfa in the middle. Remember, these slides are >40-years old and have been stored in an attic for all them time in Boots (the Chemist) slide boxes that hold 200 in individual slots. I've also got some slides in their original Agfa / FujiFilm / Kodak slide boxes, but I don't yet know is they faired better or worse! Happy scanning ....
  9. I was under the impression that applying a spray coat of waterproofing spray was also a good way to 'protect' self printed images. I've used this method on some self-designed / printed / assembled cardboard buildings. However, surely it depends on the type / quality of the actual ink used in the printer (assuming it's an inkjet)? Sunlight is going to have an effect regardless of any coating applied.
  10. Recently I've started the mammoth task of scanning in my old slides, circa 1977 to 1982. Takes an age, although the scanner (and my feeding / unloading activities) can do about 50 per hour, with a little preparation (some slides have mould on them that I have to clean off). I've got around 2500 to do ... I came across this one from 5th April 1978 showing 47521 on the 10:45 Aberdeen - Kings Cross (The Aberdonian), which shows a typical East Coast mainline MkIId rake of coaches, complete with MkI BG and Buffet car.
  11. A Bus Interlude .... Yes, yes, there's plenty of talk on these Forums about buses on bridges. Well, I've been getting a little collection of buses together for the roads and bridges that will, eventually, appear on the Upper Level baseboard. Being based on Burton-on-Trent there could be no other than Midland Red [1]. I used them to get to the Grammar School back in the day, for the first part of the journey at least. So here is the 'fleet' as it currently stands: The single-deckers are the ones I would have been using. Double-deckers didn't frequent Burton, but it's a case of getting what's available on the market. [1] - It would be nice to include a few of the East Staffordshire District Corporation (ESDC) buses (they took over from Burton Corporation) despite their garish colour scheme of Green / White / Red bands (Hungarian flag upside-down!) but models do not appear to exist - unless you know differently ...
  12. Kadee Fitting to old Hornby Freightliner Wagons (R633 et all) In the end I found a way to install Kadee #158 on the bogie, and still have the correct height. The existing coupling was cut off, leaving a 9mm flat part. A 20mm long styrene extension was glued to the 9mm flat. The Kadee was screwed to the extension. Height & extension check: Seems about right. I'll have to do 2 wagons to fully verify though.
  13. John, Splendid fellow, exactly what I was looking for. I must admit, I was thinking that I'd have to fit the Kadees to the bogies. I installed some on Lima coach bodies, and then had all manner of buffer locking issues. But since, of course, the Freightliner wagons are bufferless (FFA), I can see your implementation is suitable. On your FGA (buffered) conversion, may I ask where you obtained the buffers, and are these a good representation?
  14. Kadee Fitting to old Hornby Freighliner Wagons (R633 et all) Has anyone successfully equipped the old Hornby Freighliner Wagons with Kadee couplings? And if they did, what coupling type did they use, and how did they fit it? A photo would be helpful .....
  15. Martyn, That's why (most ...) rulers have a flat side and a bevelled side (or a trapezoidal shape). Flat side down you will get the capillary action problem, but bevelled side down you will not (or should not ...). Obviously this is a problem with flat steel rulers ....
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