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AyJay

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  1. J-Cloths! Of course. I'll wait 'til the coast is clear, then 'liberate' one from the kitchen Thanks all, I will look out for the Ten Commandments product, in case it does not work. Yes I have used the dreaded track rubber, but the consensus is that they are not a good solution. Thanks all.
  2. The subject of track cleaning has come up before, although I cannot find anything recent on the subject, so apologies for digging it up again. Well... remembering that I had a Triang Hornby track cleaning car, I dug it out to see if it could be pressed into service. I replaced the original wheels with Alan Gibson wheels, so that it would run on my finescale track. The original piece of felt was so badly deteriorated that it was no use; so searching on the internet, I purchased a sheet of 3mm thick wool felt. Cutting a strip to size, I fitted this and then gave it a try. That's where my plan all went wrong. Firstly, the pad pressing down was lifting the wheels, so I placed a couple of big nuts in the wagon to hold it down. Then it caused so much drag that I had to 'tweak' the position of the pad so that it barely brushed over the track, I also had to dig out a heavy locomotive to haul it. Now it moves, but comes to a halt over the points as the felt is getting snagged in the point frogs, It is also leaving threads behind, caught on the track. I also started looking at a sheet of cork, but it would not bend the 180 degrees without splitting. Is there no way that I can make this work??? Is my only realistic solution, the Dapol motorised track cleaner, B800? I do also have the modern Hornby track cleaning car, R296, but refuse to use it because the 'point of contact' is a pair of abrasive pads. My choice of cleaning fluid is IsoPropyl Alcohol. Any suggestions? Thank you
  3. I am getting a little 'concerned'. Having seen the article about the development of the Winston Churchill Funeral Car on the 'Hornby' programme, I was so impressed by what I saw that I rang up my stockists and asked them to add one onto the order that I already have for the soon-to-be-released Flying Scotsman in BR green. Now my dealers have come back to me to say that this order is cancelled! I have just e-mailed Hornby to ask for an explanation. Really now! If a new product is promoted on TV, it goes without saying that it will generate a lot of interest (i.e. orders) in that product and that puts the onus on them to hit the floor running. Has Hornby missed the mark here? This also gives me doubts as to when I will see my 60103 ? Spleen vented!
  4. I use six of these: I Hove made a frame from plywood strips that sits across them to support the layout. Needs foam pads underneath to protect the floor.
  5. Well I finally was able to get to the 'mancave' and fettle about with my turntable. There were two problems. 1. Where had put brickpaper wound the well wall and then topped it with paving slabs, this caused one end of the bridge to catch with insufficient clearance, so some work with scalpel/file put that right. 2. I needed to reseat the motor so the worm was in best contact with it's cog. i.e angled slightly. That seems to have fixed it. :-)
  6. Hello all. My layout has a Peco turntable, the LK-55, which is currently operated by the Expo motor kit. However, this kit is now misbehaving and is proving unreliable. I see that Peco now produce their own turntable motor, the PL-55 and I would like to know how good it is? Does anyone have one and would that care to comment on it please? Particularly, I would like to know: How easy is it to retro fit? Is it supported on the base of the turntable, or does it require additional support? What is its speed like? Is its operation reliable? Is there overshoot? Does it make a lot of noise? A photo of it in position would also be helpful. Thank you, Alan
  7. The loco that stalls is a short wheelbase, 4 driving wheels, meaning that as it goes over the 'ridge', it only has one pair of driving wheels in contact, so it is prone to stall. I have a tendered loco with pony truck that tends to bounce as it goes forward, and so will tend to jump the rails at the slightest imperfection; pity Hornby did not have the foresight to add a spring to hold it down on the track. As for the errant wagon, I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. The bogie on one coach is another matter and will stand further examination. Thinking further about soldering rains together, I have in mind something like this: Push the sleepers back to expose a few inches of rail, using some water to reduce friction and prevent damage if needed. Clean ends with glass fibre brush, as required. Offer up to another track length similarly prepared. Yet allowing for the joins on both rails not to be at the same place. Also allow for a short length of sleepers between where one rail join is an where the other is. (Difficult to explain, but hope you get what I mean. Using fishplates that are a tight, resistance, fit, add flux and solder together. This may also be a suitable place to add the wire dropper, to the underside of the fishplate. Push sleepers back into place. Put track into place, cutting the other ends to fit.
  8. Good morning all, I have found this a most interesting topic, especially the different ideas posted on track, wheels, couplings, as I also have 'mysterious de-railings'. Most frustrating are those where it is just one wagon/bogie in a rake and I can see nothing obvious in the offending item. I do find the occasional dog leg. When I laid my track, I anticipated this problem by planning for the tightest part of the curve to be in one continuous length of flexitrack (Peco, finescale, OO gauge, droppers on every length). Thus I could, almost always, confine joins to the gentler curves. The exception being that my layout is composed of connecting modules, not more than 1.1m across and where it happened to be a corner, then I'm technically breaking that rule, but I think I kept my radii not too tight. Would the gentleman who advocated offsetting the rail joins please share how he performed this technique, as I am struggling getting my head around how to do this? The two biggest causes of derailments for me are: 1. is at the joins to the boards. The track is laid on cork and at the board edges I have pinned and glued (2-part epoxy resin) lengths of copper strip on top of glued strips of softwood that were planed after fixing, so that the copper strip was at the right height for the track to sit on top and be soldered in place. This was fine at the time, but now a small 'hump' has appeared in the track at one place over such a join, causing the wheels of one locomotive to lift off the track in the trailing 'dip' at that place and stall; a couple of trucks derail there. Being a lazy g1t and wanting to avoid major surgery, I have tried prising up the track on the trailing side of the hump to lessen its effect, but I don't think its lessened the problem. 2. Where a length of track crosses a baseboard joint at an angle i.e. not at 90 degrees.... My method was to lay a length across the join and secure in place. Then when all tracks were laid, I would go down the join with a razor saw. Where the track is perpendicular to the join, this was just fine. But where it crossed at an angle, this meant the the cut was not perpendicular across the rail and so left a 'lip' that could catch the flange of a wheel. If I do another layout, I shall use a dremel and cutting disk to cut each rail individually. I like the idea of soldering at joins and have done so where there is a short length near a baseboard edge that connects to a point. However, There is still the need to maintain at least one expansion joint per track length per baseboard. My layout is not in a controlled environment, fortunately not exposed to direct sunlight. When I laid the track, I left 1mm expansion gaps. A most interesting discussion, thank you. Alan
  9. My layout cannot hold all of my stock, just isn't room. So I normally have about 30 carriages out at any one time. The wagons get rotated regularly, as the whim takes me. There is room for all my locomotives in the engine yard, but for security reasons, I never leave them out when not in use. I don't use the boxes for 'everyday' use, so that they don't get damaged; instead, I use a crate shaped stock box with trays for the loco's. The carriages and wagons live in aluminium tool cases. I'm thinking of weeding out the boxes for my oldest carriages, but keeping all the rest.
  10. Hello Ian, I will happily swap a 'Lucille' for your 'Cynthia', I have 3 of them.
  11. Do you think it's worth keeping the boxes your rolling stock came in? No doubt any collector will say that the box adds considerably to the value of something, that may be very true. I also remember being shocked when James May, in his series about toys, bought a train set at an auction and promptly threw away the box !!! Anyway, I digress... Having just collected some items from storage, I have a couple of packing boxes full of rolling stock boxes, all carriages and wagons; Triang Hornby, Hornby Hobbies, Airfix, Graham Farish, Bachmann, Dapol, Ratio, Mainline, Lima..... This now adds to a couple of plastic storage bins worth that's in the loft. To give you some idea of how much, I have 23 locomotives, about 100 wagons and about 60 carriages. Our house is beginning to look like a candidate for the next series of 'Nick Knowles Big House Clearout' :-0 Certainly, the locomotive boxes must be kept, you never know when one must be returned for repair. But for the rest, should I commit sacrilege and bin, or ignore the clutter and keep? These are not for displaying on a shelf. when not running they live in large stock boxes. Neither are they for trading, the next time they are in their intended boxes and on their way to their next keeper, so will I. So your thoughts please, and a little clarity perhaps? Thank you
  12. The Green Triang Hornby Princess has had a stay of execution! I found some finescale wheels that I bought for it. The problem is that the gearwheel that came with the axles for them, is of a different tooth pitch to the original and so will not engage with the worm that is on the motor AARGH! No doubt if I found a worm..... it would probably not fit on the armature. If I replace the motor.... It would not fit the chassis. Oh why not just be done with the thing and bin it!
  13. I think I understand where you are coming from Harlequin. Perhaps I can suggest an alternative perspective... The person who never made mistakes, never learned anything. There is more than one way to do something. I find it very helpful to see alternative ideas and I may try some of those ideas to see how good they are. Besides, as modellers, I think that we owe it to ourselves to experiment with alternative techniques. Unless the technique being taught is potentially dangerous, or should only be done by a recognised professional (in which case you would be right to shout out), then I think its a case of allowing the viewer to try it for themselves and make up their own mind.
  14. Humm, I may have started something here... OK, some random thoughts: My home is not a museum and my broken possessions are not preserved in glass cases for future generations. Ancient rolling stock in garish colours with overscale wheels will never run on finescale track. That thing that might come in useful, wont. That project that might get started, doesn't. Hanging onto something for the sake of a memory is overrated, it's taking space that could be put to better use. (Having said that, I will never part with the Flying Scotsman and the class 31 that my father bought for me as Christmas presents when I was a child). Let's face it, most of us must have moved house as adults. Hands up everyone who has moved 'stuff' out of one loft and into another, but at no other time even considered their existence. I suppose bits from my candidate castoffs could find a useful life as engine yard clutter. e.g. wheels, cylinder gear etc :-).
  15. I have become interested in the new tv program hosted by Nick Knowles, 'Big House Clearout' and inspired by this, i thought that I'd start small and give a good look at what is in my railway room. The first thing to consign to the bin was a station building made out of plaster, which I made about 25 years ago using Linka moulds. It's been sitting on a shelf gathering dust and up to now I just could not gather the wherewithall to part with it. When I made it, it looked pretty neat, but compared to my recent card kits it just does not look good. So out it went! This was closely followed by a few completed card kits that have been looking sorry for themselves for ages. Again, early dabbling in making buildings. I'm now eyeing up an early Triang Hornby Princess that I tried to rewheel and abandoned, plus an early Hornby Jinty that is no longer used. I would be interested in knowing what other peoples attitudes are to hanging onto stuff that has outlived its usefulness? Do you hoard, or bin?
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