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  1. Morning all. This is a subject which I have never seen appear in this forum, so I am just putting out feelers to see what sort of interest there might be in my sharing an approach that I applied in the development of my railway. i.e A Requirements led approach? I am an Engineer by profession, with experience in the subjects of Requirements Capture and Test Analysis. These disciplines would normally be applied to projects with a lot of zero's behind the pound sign. Since I had time to ponder my project before I was able to start on it, I decided to apply what I was doin
  2. Hello again all, Looking at your very good and sensible replies, I am beginning to regret going for the 'entry level kit', perhaps I should have just gone straight for the 5A model instead. So, note to self. Always allow spare capacity for growth! Well I have been scribbling figures down just to see how expensive this is getting, and considering all I want to do is control points with levers instead of remembering accessory numbers, the sum is eye- wateringly high!!! Certainly, as far as seeking purchase advice is concerned, Digitrains would be the obvious one-sto
  3. I hope that an informed person can give me some good advice. I would like to extend my DCC system and have contacted the suppliers concerned, however their replies do not really give me the information that I need and leave me more confused than ever. So I hope that someone here has done what I plan to do and can advise. I have a moderate size OO gauge railway. It comprises a twin loop for mainline operation, 10-track fiddleyard, engine yard with capacity for 20 locomotives and goods sidings. There are 39 points, operated by Cobalt ip Digital point motors, conne
  4. Hi Mick, good to hear from you! Looking forward to your next presentation. I use a spare Dyson Animal for all my 'creative' mess clearing up. As for recapturing scatter material, I stretch an old bit of recycled tights over the end of the hose, with the crevice tool on the end. Really must remember to make sure the work area is clean of other rubbish before applying scatter though, so as to not contaminate the collected scatter :-(
  5. When I was working 'on the tools' I bought myself a pair of orange coloured wire strippers from RS. They lasted faultlessly for years and years, until finally the jaws went blunt and did not strip reliably any more. Then I tried a cheap pair, BIG MISTAKE! I have now recently purchased the ones from CK that everyone endorses and am very impressed with them. Moral of this tale..... Buy cheap, buy twice.
  6. Good morning all. I have not yet started making this shaped moulding yet; but have decided that I am going to carve it out of plasticard, using needle files and some emery boards bought from the make-up counter. However, there is now a more pressing show-stopper that I must deal with first... I need to reproduce the mock Tudor wood framing that embellishes three sides (see photo) and feel that the best way to do this is to overlay the white painted surface with a second layer of card, cut to represent the wood beams and painted. However, my attempt at cutting the required shape
  7. Can anyone offer any suggestion for how I can model this ornate corner feature? (the shaped concrete bit that is ) The model is OO gauge in card and this feature will be 10mm across (bit bigger than a garden pea). Fortunately, it will face away from me when the model is positioned, so it will not have to stand up to close scrutiny. But I did promise the occupant of this building, that he would have pictures, so I want to do the best I can. I do not have a 3d printer and have never done anything like this before. So do I: a) Buy a pack of DAS modelling clay, some dental pi
  8. Thank you for your comments all. I have now decided that I am going to have a church in this corner and there is one that I see regularly, that is particularly attractive and I would like to model it. Because of the positioning in the available space, I will be displaying the rear and end of the building (the side way from the main street). It also won't be a complete model, with a line diagonally through the middle. One big problem.... I cannot find a close match for the leaded glazing that it uses. A search on this website has returned the name 'York Modelmaking', but
  9. The terrace in the foreground of the first picture, is constructed from several kits from Freestone Model Accessories. All the rest are entirely scratch built by myself over the past year, copying the same style. Built with card from Hobbycraft, brick paper & chimney pots from Freestone and glazing poached from abandoned Metcalfe kits. The pub is, loosely, based on 'The Queen Vic' and named 'The Prince Albert'. The row of shops, to the left in the third picture, are based on real shop fronts found on the internet. One of them, the bike shop, reproduces a bike shop that I used to frequ
  10. The context: I have built a town-scene on a corner of my layout and next to one end of my fiddle-yard. Some of you may have seen my previous discussions on this. This is where the scenery ends. It also has a mirror-twin at the other end, which I have not started on because I have not decided what to do. The buildings are all diagonal to the layout and this has meant that two buildings have their corners cut off where they meet the wall/outside edge; but these face away from me so don’t really notice. This does however, leave a small bare corner that is crying out for so
  11. I have tried a couple of techniques with mine. In one instance, I had cut a piece of ply the right size to be a snug fit inside the walls of a card building. Then, placing the piece where I wanted the building, drilled two holes through it and the baseboard underneath. Then, glued a couple of wooden dowels into the holes in the baseboard, so that about 1cm stood proud. Lastly, I glued the piece into the bottom of my building and there I have it, accurate alignment, snug enough to hold into place, yet I can lift it if needed. With the houses in my card townscene, all the bui
  12. Now I'm really confused!!! I see that there are several references to WD40 in this thread. I only know of the WD40 oil that I would use on rusty bolts and don't think that is what's meant, so this must be a branded switch cleaner that I was unaware of? Having spent a moment doing an internet search on "meths versus iso propyl", I am leaning towards iso propyl, because it does not have the additives that meths has. I did briefly wonder about using Ronson lighter fluid, but there is always the risk of a spark!!! One good thing that this thread has done, is to convince me
  13. Hello. I have a couple of Triang Hornby locomotives which even though they are over 50 years old, are still very good runners. They are the Flying Scotsman 60103 and an 0-6-0 diesel shunter. I would like to know if the motors that they have are suitable for working with DCC? Yes, I understand that one of the issues to take care with, is that the motor must be isolated from its chassis.; I think that a couple of layers of PVC electrical tape should do the job here without lifting the motor so far that the worm disengages from the gear wheel. It's just that they were so well
  14. Well! Just goes to prove that if you ask 10 people the best way to do something, you will come away with all sorts of answers and more confused than ever. My method has been to use a track rubber, think it's some other supplier, not Peco. Then with a clean bit of rag round my finger, wipe each rail to pick up any deposit. Lastly, go round with the vacuum cleaner to collect any dropped threads. Doing wheels is more involved. I have this thing that's about 18in of track with felt pads. Absolutely useless! So I resort to a bottle of IPA and a drum of cotton buds. Not e
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