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AyJay

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  1. Hi James, don't be discouraged. And don't be tempted to rush ahead, 'regret at leisure' and all that. You could try what I tried.... Lay out a length of track on a board and run trains up and down it whilst propping up one end with books etc. See what impact the gradient has on speed and pulling power. I found for a Hornby tender loco and three carriages, that I could go up to 1 in 30 before the impact was 'significant'. This is a subjective thing, only you can decide where that point is for you. However, this gradient may only be acceptable for short inclines. The longe
  2. Prompted by the article in February’s issue of BRM on motorising a Peco Turntable, I would like to add my findings on this subject for the benefit of anyone considering this useful addition to their layout. I purchased and fitted the Peco Turntable, LK-55, several years ago, along with the motor kit by Expo. For the first couple of years, it worked fine. But then I found that the movement began to get worse and as of yesterday, refused to move at all. Slight digression first. If you have not seen the motor kit, it comprises of the motor itself, gearbox and selection of gea
  3. Yes I have seen that video. But what happened to it???
  4. Does anyone know what happened to Mike Sharman's Victorian railway? I saw one of his layouts about 20 years ago and because he was shorthanded that day, I got roped in to help operate it. What a wonderful opportunity. I would just love to see it again, hope it was not broken up.
  5. It's a given that the shed really ought to be very well insulated... You could try not leaving the locomotives in the shed when not in use?
  6. I also have this wagon, but having seen the mildly abrasive pads, prefer not to use it. Will scratches on the rail harbour dirt? However, have also dug out my old green Triang Hornby track cleaning car and am just waiting for exhibitions to resume, so as to source suitable finescale wheels. Is there some question about the use of Methylated Spirit? Something about leaving a deposit on the track?
  7. I don't want to get fixated on the engine yard/fiddle yard. The points in the engine yard will have ground levers (non-working) attached to them when I reach that level of detailing. Don't want to fit them yet as I risk breaking them. The fiddleyard is 'off stage' and does not count. It is just the points associated with the main lines that are rodded. All of the points will be operated by Cobalt levers. The levers for the main line will be arranged in a group, centre front of operating area. The levers for the fiddle yard will be in a second group to one side, as wi
  8. P.S. I want to thank everyone who replied. You all gave good advice and I have learned a lot from it. Thank you.
  9. Hello Michael, Mike. I just took a good look at my layout with a tape measure. It's not just point(s) 11 that's rodded, the first points at the end of the fiddleyard just stick out of the end of the bridge mouth, so they are rodded also. Then there will be signals 7 to 9. In all, that's about 14m of Wills rodding back to the South Box, or over £100 on something that is purely cosmetic. I just cannot justify that sort of expense. So my options are: 1. As suggested, use motors. But were they available in the 50's and what about the three signals? I am ignoring the ground
  10. Thank you for your comment everyone. They were very helpful; I had to read them a couple of times and keep referring back to my diagrams. Yes, certainly compression does play a big part in this layout. That's all the space I have and it was a long journey to get that trackplan. Removing the North Signal Box will be an easy one, although I have got used to seeing it there now. That also means combining the North and South diagrams; which makes the printout twice as long and I don't fancy buying an A3 laminator just for this. I had not thought of having the fiddleyard point
  11. Thank you for your questions. The location is deliberately non-descript. The locomotives are all steam and BR, but the types represent each of the big four. So Anytown middle England will do. It's a Double-slip because that's what I had and I could not justify the expense. It's 2 signal boxes because I took my trackplan with me to Alexandra Palace a couple of years back and consulted a gentleman demonstrating building signals, a retired railway signalman with The Model Railway Club. I wanted to know how it should be signalled. He told me that two boxes was plausable, given the
  12. And here is a pdf download from AnyRail, for my trackplan... Any assistance gratefully accepted. Thank you. Alan Trackplan_V10point8_a3.pdf
  13. I have some questions concerning the arrangement of point levers, also the positioning of signals. I am going to purchase Cobalt point levers by DCC concepts, up to 24 of them required, also what is needed to make a mimic panel to show point settings. When looking at my trackplan, attached, I will be standing in the middle and facing downwards, looking towards the station, engine yard and goods yard. So my left appears to the right on the diagram. I plan to site the levers on the edge of the board near the station. The levers for the fiddleyard, behind me, will also need to be
  14. Thank you all for your helpful input, I had another think about what I wanted. Wheatley, as I read your reply, I could almost hear you saying "and you can't go far wrong...." Rather than ask this thread be moved, I think it best that I start again with a freshly worded text. Admin, will you please close this thread and point towards Permanent Way, Signalling and Infrastructure, where I will shortly re-post. Thank you.
  15. Thank you for that. Can I please have an answer to my question? ;-)
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