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  1. Famous "known and recognized by many people" nothing more. Not everyone is a railway enthusiast but many know of the Flying Scotsman locomotive.
  2. Hi I was looking to recreate the Flying Scotsman as it appeared at the Wembley exhibition in 1924 so when I first saw R3736 I thought this was my chance, it has to be said that some parts of this loco are excellent, picking up on some very fine details but yes some larger errors are present. So, I still haven't made the purchase as I'm wondering if a better example is around the corner. I love this loco and most of my locomotives are Hornby but with the cost of R3736 being so high it is hard to justify the purchase with the errors being mentioned. I'm not even sure that crest is the correct size and the LNER font looks too high to me. Is this where we have to accept compromise on the basis of the economics of producing model locomotives? I think the most famous steam locomotive of all time deserves to be as correct as possible when we reach this kind of money, after all when you add DCC sound and some weathering - possibly semi gloss finish as it would be an exhibition locomotive, the cost will comfortably pass £330 ish.
  3. Sadly medical stuff has reared its head again, back inside with constant visits to hospital. If there is one thing I've learned its not to put off building your layout! Anyway my layout is probably on hold for another year. My apologies to those who have liked and followed the story so far. Cheers for now.
  4. Hello Finally back to thinking about the railway. Anyone having read my previous blog entries will see that it's been a long time since my last blog entry. Had to sort a few medical issues but that's all behind me now and thankfully nothing to do with c19. As I've been recovering I thought I would have a go at one of Metcalf’s excellent card kits, although I would point out that I see these as temporary models which look great until my planned buildings come along when I have the time. I chose the workers Cottage as it closely resembles some workers cottages I have planned behind the station area. View of the ground floor with curtains and walls in place. I decided to add an interior, not fully detailed but at least enough to look good when the building is illuminated with LED lighting, I didn’t like the idea of peering into a cardboard shell. The wall graphics in PowerPoint. I prepared internal walls in card and interior wallpaper and furniture as you can see, I did this in PowerPoint mainly but also some use of CorelDraw. In a way I’m not sure I should have taken so long over it as it is almost impossible to see it from the distance that this will be viewed – about 1m. Still, this was also a bit of a learning exercise for future work. And the first floor showing the wires for the LED's attached to the roof. All led's are pre-wired micro type in warm white from an online auction site! External doors were covered with a new image from the internet and all roof and wall edges had the mortar lines added using a 0.2mm fibre tip pen. The corner joints were disguised by photocopying the original walls before construction, cutting a vertical slice from the corner stone design and then pasting this over the join using rocket card glue. Each room light can be turned on independently, I used a Rk Education RKswitch1 Toggle Switch Module bought as a kit which you just solder together. If you're new to electronics I highly recommend this kind of kit, I also use a lot from Kitronik, great kits with clear instructions and the website has great resources - see "Learning" under the resources tab and start with understanding electronics. N.B. Lights are softer than they appear in this photograph. RKswitch1 Toggle Switch Module The model is mounted on a piece of 9mm ply so that it can be removed from the layout for maintenance. I have started a tidy up in the garage/railway room which is also a reorganisation as I’m desperate for space. When the layout is mainly complete I intend to add roll out storage boxes below that will give me all the capacity I need but until then I’m a bit crowded. As soon as this work is complete I will commence track laying again and then I hope to show a short clip of my first loco running.
  5. Hi Thanks for the kind comments, sadly been in hospital, not c19 though. Out now all fixed. Hope to get back to track laying soon. When I have something to show I'll update the blog. I know it's easier said than done but try to show what you've done, the person who makes no mistakes usually makes nothing. I was a Technology teacher for 20 years so the wood work had to be reasonable or my ex student's would tell me off
  6. Sorry chaps, I appreciate so much you trying to help but I'm obviously not giving enough information to get the guidance I need. I think my problem is not having the knowledge to understand fully the replies. many of the terms are not familiar to me. I think I would be correct in assuming that there are many more ways than one of wiring up DCC. I'll try to draw a better diagram over the next few days and come back to this. Thanks again.
  7. Ah, I do have a reverse loop module (Gaugemaster) that will be wired into the loop, had some help with that on another post and feel confident that is correct. Now the bus wires under the loop and the bus wires under the remaining tracks both go back to the Z21 then? I was worried that when the reverse loop activates it would affect the main line bus in some way.
  8. Hi Iain, thanks for the information. I have a Lenz TR100 (Transformer 15V, 45VA) which will power all the point motors via a couple of LS150's (6 OUTPUT ACCESSORY DECODER), these are left over from a planned continental layout that work never allowed the time to build. Now retired I'm hoping to put some of these things to use. The above should reduce the load on the Z21, I also have a couple of old transformers (Gaugemaster) that I will use for layout lighting and motorised accessories in 16V. The plan is to leave the Z21 to run two trains on the mainlines and have the ability to control a third in the sidings (I mainly watch the trains go by!). The layout is planned to be very scenic and will also include moving vehicles using the magnorail system (again from the continental layout that was planned), the 3A from the Z21 should be able to cope with running the three locomotives I hope. Coach lightingfor me uses the battery Coach Lighting Kit with Latching Reed Switch from "layouts for you" so no drain there. Should I upgrade to DCC lighting throughout then maybe a power booster is a future option. Right now I'm just trying to get up and running but am finding no sooner than I get one issue sorted that I'm coming cross another. My fear is blowing a DCC fitted locomotive with an expensive sound chip. Any other thoughts on the reverse loop wiring?
  9. Thanks, so PSX then, will the reverse loop be ok connected as below? I thought Id start with 2 PSX and add more if necessary or the layout expands.
  10. Thanks Ian, so I add a "DCO" or circuit breaker to each district feed. I've looked at the PSX1 POWER SHIELD at about £40, it looks good but the cost soon mounts up. Are there any decent cheaper alternatives? Also in the case of the reverse loop, will connecting all the bus wires (via a PSX or other) at the controller not cause problems? Cheers Clive
  11. Hi Ray Sorry but the diagram was only meant to be an example to show districts, my actual plan is far more complex. I have the return loop mentioned, a double track main line, a loco depot and a station with several sidings, as below. You mention the circuit breakers, which one's should I use and do these keep the districts isolated during normal use? Thank you for your reply, I know this must be obvious to most on this site.
  12. Hi all, I recently received some excellent help in wiring up a reverse loop I have on my layout from several RMWeb members. Having successfully isolated the loop I now wish to isolate a couple of other sections, namely the station area and the loco depot. If I wire the isolated sections back to my Z21 controller it would obviously result in me reconnecting them all so I understand I need to seperate them in some way. Please can someone explain how this is done? I have come across the PSX circuit breakers but firstly they don't appear on DCC concepts web site any more? And, I am not entirely sure how they function apart from protecting the circuit against shorts - under normal use would I not be connecting all my isolated sections back together again? So to clarify I understand that this diagram would not work but what are the options?
  13. Progress is still slow this month but I did have a bit of a breakthrough thanks to some very helpful people in the forum on DCC help. Link: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/149989-dcc-bus-help-please/ This also gave me another issue regarding wiring the BUS wires back to the controller (Roco Z21) although I have to say that following some further discussions on the forum I picked up a few hints on where to go next. One thing this did make clear to me was that the DCC wiring was and is the hardest part of this build for me. Any difficult construction work pales into insignificance compared to the ins and outs of wiring DCC. My solution was to contact Coastal DCC for some professional help which I decided was worth paying for. Unfortunately they do not do the purely wiring diagrams I was after but I received amazing guidance from Kevin at Coastal DCC, so much so that I now feel confident in pushing on. I will certainly be visiting their website for my DCC needs in future. As far as my wiring goes one thing I've learnt myself is to be comfortable when working, I particularly like to be sitting down when soldering which is not always easy when working along the track but certainly at present thanks to my open frame benchwork this is still possible. I use an Antex XS25 Soldering iron and bought a 0.5mm tip to allow more accurate soldering than the larger bit I had. I did buy some Tabiger lead free solder locally, but found it would not melt consistently and remelting was horrible. Purchased some Weller solder and all is good again. Finally I bought some glue lined heat shrink tubing that shrinks 3:1 which really is much better than the 2:1 I had. I bought a couple of inline mains cable connectors (actually outdoor use type) and extended my soldering iron and my heat gun leads temporarily to allow better access around the layout. Having done all of the above the task of joining the Bus wires to the droppers is so much easier although I still would not want to do this from under the layout if I had a solid top baseboard, and appreciate most modellers use connectors because of this. So in pictures, the Bus wires (Red & Black 32/0.2) for the section I'm working on were cut to length and then loosely twisted. With a clamp on each end to maintain the twist these were threaded through the holes in the baseboard cross members under the track bed. Using the wire strippers shown I strip back the sleeving from the bus wire by squeezing the handles slowly - if you do this quickly they can cut/break the wire. I then wrapped the dropper wires (16/0.2) around the exposed Bus wire and then soldered the joint. This is then enclosed with the heat shrink tubing by passing it over the soldered joint and heating with an electric mini heat gun. I am connecting every piece of track to the Bus wire independently as you will see. The DCC concepts PowerBase does need drilling in places, especially where the screws for the track go through, but I am sure this will pay dividends when the work is complete with improved running. I am now onto my reverse loop - I'm using a Gaugemaster reverse module and will be wiring this up according to the advice I received on the forum (link above). I will also be adding my first points, wired for improved DCC running as per "DaveClass47" excellent tutorial on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Et3vuedbZ98&list=PLEKjmCmAsAeW4ThbJ6UCMvBzuRvExCCQJ&index=27&t=0s). Finally when testing is complete I will be adding a few extra track bed supports and then will be tidying up the wires so that the run along the framework/trackbed using some cable ties and clips. I hope my next blog entry will show a locomotive on track, fingers crossed! Cheers Clive
  14. Ahh thanks, I think I'm there! One module for me - these things don't come cheap - and that was my first thought but did not have confidence to go ahead. Can't thank you all enough - thankfully the rest of the layout is plain sailing, or should that be steaming? I have a blog entitled Northumberton and will post some images when this is wired up. Cheers!
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