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Wizardtrains

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  1. Sorry chaps, I appreciate so much you trying to help but I'm obviously not giving enough information to get the guidance I need. I think my problem is not having the knowledge to understand fully the replies. many of the terms are not familiar to me. I think I would be correct in assuming that there are many more ways than one of wiring up DCC. I'll try to draw a better diagram over the next few days and come back to this. Thanks again.
  2. Ah, I do have a reverse loop module (Gaugemaster) that will be wired into the loop, had some help with that on another post and feel confident that is correct. Now the bus wires under the loop and the bus wires under the remaining tracks both go back to the Z21 then? I was worried that when the reverse loop activates it would affect the main line bus in some way.
  3. Hi Iain, thanks for the information. I have a Lenz TR100 (Transformer 15V, 45VA) which will power all the point motors via a couple of LS150's (6 OUTPUT ACCESSORY DECODER), these are left over from a planned continental layout that work never allowed the time to build. Now retired I'm hoping to put some of these things to use. The above should reduce the load on the Z21, I also have a couple of old transformers (Gaugemaster) that I will use for layout lighting and motorised accessories in 16V. The plan is to leave the Z21 to run two trains on the mainlines and have the ability to control a third in the sidings (I mainly watch the trains go by!). The layout is planned to be very scenic and will also include moving vehicles using the magnorail system (again from the continental layout that was planned), the 3A from the Z21 should be able to cope with running the three locomotives I hope. Coach lightingfor me uses the battery Coach Lighting Kit with Latching Reed Switch from "layouts for you" so no drain there. Should I upgrade to DCC lighting throughout then maybe a power booster is a future option. Right now I'm just trying to get up and running but am finding no sooner than I get one issue sorted that I'm coming cross another. My fear is blowing a DCC fitted locomotive with an expensive sound chip. Any other thoughts on the reverse loop wiring?
  4. Thanks, so PSX then, will the reverse loop be ok connected as below? I thought Id start with 2 PSX and add more if necessary or the layout expands.
  5. Thanks Ian, so I add a "DCO" or circuit breaker to each district feed. I've looked at the PSX1 POWER SHIELD at about £40, it looks good but the cost soon mounts up. Are there any decent cheaper alternatives? Also in the case of the reverse loop, will connecting all the bus wires (via a PSX or other) at the controller not cause problems? Cheers Clive
  6. Hi Ray Sorry but the diagram was only meant to be an example to show districts, my actual plan is far more complex. I have the return loop mentioned, a double track main line, a loco depot and a station with several sidings, as below. You mention the circuit breakers, which one's should I use and do these keep the districts isolated during normal use? Thank you for your reply, I know this must be obvious to most on this site.
  7. Hi all, I recently received some excellent help in wiring up a reverse loop I have on my layout from several RMWeb members. Having successfully isolated the loop I now wish to isolate a couple of other sections, namely the station area and the loco depot. If I wire the isolated sections back to my Z21 controller it would obviously result in me reconnecting them all so I understand I need to seperate them in some way. Please can someone explain how this is done? I have come across the PSX circuit breakers but firstly they don't appear on DCC concepts web site any more? And, I am not entirely sure how they function apart from protecting the circuit against shorts - under normal use would I not be connecting all my isolated sections back together again? So to clarify I understand that this diagram would not work but what are the options?
  8. Progress is still slow this month but I did have a bit of a breakthrough thanks to some very helpful people in the forum on DCC help. Link: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/149989-dcc-bus-help-please/ This also gave me another issue regarding wiring the BUS wires back to the controller (Roco Z21) although I have to say that following some further discussions on the forum I picked up a few hints on where to go next. One thing this did make clear to me was that the DCC wiring was and is the hardest part of this build for me. Any difficult construction work pales into insignificance compared to the ins and outs of wiring DCC. My solution was to contact Coastal DCC for some professional help which I decided was worth paying for. Unfortunately they do not do the purely wiring diagrams I was after but I received amazing guidance from Kevin at Coastal DCC, so much so that I now feel confident in pushing on. I will certainly be visiting their website for my DCC needs in future. As far as my wiring goes one thing I've learnt myself is to be comfortable when working, I particularly like to be sitting down when soldering which is not always easy when working along the track but certainly at present thanks to my open frame benchwork this is still possible. I use an Antex XS25 Soldering iron and bought a 0.5mm tip to allow more accurate soldering than the larger bit I had. I did buy some Tabiger lead free solder locally, but found it would not melt consistently and remelting was horrible. Purchased some Weller solder and all is good again. Finally I bought some glue lined heat shrink tubing that shrinks 3:1 which really is much better than the 2:1 I had. I bought a couple of inline mains cable connectors (actually outdoor use type) and extended my soldering iron and my heat gun leads temporarily to allow better access around the layout. Having done all of the above the task of joining the Bus wires to the droppers is so much easier although I still would not want to do this from under the layout if I had a solid top baseboard, and appreciate most modellers use connectors because of this. So in pictures, the Bus wires (Red & Black 32/0.2) for the section I'm working on were cut to length and then loosely twisted. With a clamp on each end to maintain the twist these were threaded through the holes in the baseboard cross members under the track bed. Using the wire strippers shown I strip back the sleeving from the bus wire by squeezing the handles slowly - if you do this quickly they can cut/break the wire. I then wrapped the dropper wires (16/0.2) around the exposed Bus wire and then soldered the joint. This is then enclosed with the heat shrink tubing by passing it over the soldered joint and heating with an electric mini heat gun. I am connecting every piece of track to the Bus wire independently as you will see. The DCC concepts PowerBase does need drilling in places, especially where the screws for the track go through, but I am sure this will pay dividends when the work is complete with improved running. I am now onto my reverse loop - I'm using a Gaugemaster reverse module and will be wiring this up according to the advice I received on the forum (link above). I will also be adding my first points, wired for improved DCC running as per "DaveClass47" excellent tutorial on YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Et3vuedbZ98&list=PLEKjmCmAsAeW4ThbJ6UCMvBzuRvExCCQJ&index=27&t=0s). Finally when testing is complete I will be adding a few extra track bed supports and then will be tidying up the wires so that the run along the framework/trackbed using some cable ties and clips. I hope my next blog entry will show a locomotive on track, fingers crossed! Cheers Clive
  9. Ahh thanks, I think I'm there! One module for me - these things don't come cheap - and that was my first thought but did not have confidence to go ahead. Can't thank you all enough - thankfully the rest of the layout is plain sailing, or should that be steaming? I have a blog entitled Northumberton and will post some images when this is wired up. Cheers!
  10. Thanks for the help, I'm using the peco switch PL13 attached to a Peco point motor PL10e to switch the frog's. I see the possible problem of a loco crossing the frog and the RLM though, the "bottom" track looks OK but the return above has the IRJ's very close to the frog of the left hand turnout. because of that would this be a better solution - obviously wired to the bus wires on the input side. Also finally if this is OK do I need terminators on the bus wires at the end of the loop? Cheers Clive
  11. Hi Thanks for the replies...... I'll try to make things clearer in order to make sure I have things correct. From what I gather would this be correct? Or do I need another reverse module? PS the distance from the turnout on the right hand side of the reverse module to the apex of the return loop is about 1.8m so plenty of space in the loop for my longest train - about 5 coaches.
  12. Good morning all I need some advice on the exact connections for a loop I am working on. Here is a view of the whole loop which is hidden under the layout. I intend to wire the points for DCC following advice I found on DaveClass47 YouTube channel which I have found to be excellent and easy to follow. I put a link here that shows the wiring - the diagram I'm using appears at 11.00 mins into the clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Et3vuedbZ98&list=PLEKjmCmAsAeW4ThbJ6UCMvBzuRvExCCQJ&index=27&t=0s Here is a close up of the junction I have with the gaugemaster reverse loop module I hope to use: My question is about how to deal with the bus wires shown on the left, Do I create a seperate bus wire for the loop and do all the bus wire "Ends" need a terminator of some kind? Any help/clarification would be very much appreciated - I find most aspects of railway modelling well within my grasp but DCC is not one of them. Cheers Clive
  13. Hi Damo There are vids on you tube, example here: But I can't find the one I saw first. Go to the end of the vid to see it in action, really is a useful addition and certainly improved the accuracy of my timber joints. Ps the extra high centre sections on mine allow you to use a G clamp on your timber, this means you can even use it for cutting joints on pieces held vertically in the cross sled.
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