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readingtype

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  1. @michl080 @jhock Let's get this straight. Is it entirely a coincidence that @jhock found the place you live when searching Google? That's crazy :-) As it happens I saw the BR 50 in the museum at Horb a few years ago -- I did wonder why it was there, surrounded by rolling stock that (mostly) had a close connection with Stuttgart or Baden-Württemburg. Now I know! Ben
  2. The loco Roco chose, 2255, appears in a great dynamic photo of February 1945, crossing the temporary span of a viaduct just east of Aachen that had been blown up by retreating German forces the previous Autumn. 2255 pilots another loco and is considerably cleaner than the second S160. I'd love to have a print of the image which is credited to the US Army Signal Corps. I found it reproduced fairly small in Züge der Alliierten, published by Eisenbahn Kurier-Verlag, 2017. More details of the reworking of the cabside numbers are now on the Model Railway Club blog. I intend to renumber again to a different prototype.
  3. I've started one of these kits. In fact it was a while ago. It seemed to me then that, if assembled without checking and adjusting things, the axles would be parallel with each other (in plan) but not square with the solebars. AKA skew whiff. Thanks for the additional hints in your report, there are clearly other potential issues to watch out for!
  4. I think this video may already have had an airing elsewhere in this forum, but I like it. It's a special (the last I would guess) along the Industriebahn in the Stuttgart suburb of Feuerbach. You can watch the Eisenbahnfreunde rushing about trying to work out where to go next to get a picture before the traffic lights change! There's another useful video showing a 365(?) delivering two two-axle tank wagons that's also on YouTube somewhere. The Feuerbach network has inspired me, and I'm going to base at least one of the buildings on my current FREMO station module on one of the factories it served. The system was pretty substantial in its heyday and includes all sorts of interesting switchbacks etc. Almost all of it ran on roads, and it crossed a dual carriageway and a tram route seemingly just for the fun of doing it all again at the next intersection to come back the other way. I think that the city of Stuttgart got fed up of the additional cost of doing work of any kind on the roads. It is a place with a complex relationship with trains as far as I can tell :-) Ben
  5. @AchimK thanks for the report, it's very helpful to know more about what you get on (at least one of) these CDs. It could be that the originals are not very large, but if they are then organising the reproduction will not have been especially easy.
  6. Nice choice of scale (seriously). Personally I'd recommend EM or P4 gauge but can imagine why you might prefer not. Here's a CD with drawings on Ebay. I've seen these CDs recommended by others but not bought one myself (though tempted by the Prussian T3 and others): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CD-mit-Musterzeichnungen-zum-Nachbau-einer-Schnellzuglok-Baureihe-61/184408191040?hash=item2aef95b040:g:CBUAAOSwYIhWlCFL Ben
  7. Seeing this prompts me to add a mention of a supplier of replacement coach and wagon wheelsets in Germany I have used two or three times: http://www.modellbahn-radsatz.de/h0/radsaetze-h0-rp25/index.php The wheels vary in diameter according to the original model manufacturer's whim, doubtless a lot more than the prototype as 1,000 mm seems to have been a standard (in Germany at least) for 100 years or so. That's a bit bigger than the typical contemporary British wheel (what a surprise) but 10.5 mm is a common diameter in this range which is pretty much right for UK wagons. Pardon my failure to do the sums but I would guess a 1:76 wagon wheel from Gibson is pretty much perfect on a 1:87 carriage? Currently EUR 1.13 an axle as RP25 (watch out as you can buy NEM). I think they are the cheapest I have seen -- but don't forget to add in the postage cost (which was pretty reasonable when I ordered). The wheels are brass with a nickel surface and are chemically blackened. To explain the dimensions, taking as an example http://www.modellbahn-radsatz.de/h0/radsaetze-h0-rp25/fleischmann/index.php: Lkdm (=Laufkreisdurchmesser) tyre diameter - 11mm Achse axle length - 24 mm Oberflächenveredlung surface finish - nickel (I think the spec is absolutely standard across all their wheels) Spurkranzhöhe flange depth - 0.6 mm Wellendurchmesser axle diameter - 2 mm Radscheibenbreite wheel disc width (tyre and flange) - 2.8 mm [the tyre width I measure on a sample as 2mm] Obviously these terms might be useful elsewhere around the internet; happy searching. If you do use this supplier you need to be considerate and put in a reasonable order -- they used to state EUR 25 minimum for PayPal. My first order was less than that and I got a grumpy email ;-) If you order the wheelsets that are isolated on both wheels (beidseitig isoliert) you can pull them off the axles and put them on longer or shorter axles. I didn't realise until recently that Roco sell RP25 replacement wheelsets too. I haven't got any. Ben
  8. Hi For reference see also the recent GRS booklet on the K5 - plenty of photos of the one currentlyat Audingen, Pas de Calais. Disclaimer: GRS member :-) On a similar topic July's Eisenbahn Kurier has an article on some of the captured locos that were taken to the USA including a BR 52 with a condensing tender and 19 001, the 'Dampfmotorlokomotive', essentially a sort of streamlined direct-drive version of a Shay or Sentinel, but the size of the BR 06 and with a top speed of 175 km/h. The article concludes that after playing about with these locos the US military lost interest quickly as dieselisation was well under way in the US. Some good photos including a couple in colour from the early 1950s. Ben
  9. Oh, and the left side too ;-)
  10. Are they are the rings at the top of the cab door handrails? MIssing on 3023 right hand side.
  11. Now that is greatly cheering news!
  12. Time for something in 1:76 scale. This is my frst brass loco kit build, a Judith Edge kit. Started four years ago and still unfinished now. Despite the very slow progress the experience of building it has been valuable and although I wouldn't like to stick my neck out too far there seems now quite a reasonable chance it may even be completed. I am very glad I took Michael Edge's advice at the time I bought the kit to try a relatively straightforward prototype. Thank you! There have been two big challenges so far. The first was 'unsticking' the chassis for free running. That's where a lot of the intervening years went, to be honest; I feared I'd open out the crankpin holes too far and several times put it away to steep while I mulled over what I was doing. I also took it the the club more than once to solicit opinions. It turns out that pickups are difficult. A lot of the issues with running related to those, and I found it difficult to workout what was pickup trouble and what was sticking coupling rods. Running a loco on rollers turns out to be a lot different from running it on track! The second was a lot more recent, last week in fact, and that was curving the edges of the roof. That issue was resolved by fiddling with it during an evening phone call. The payback for this opportunism was that I wasn't paying full attention so it remains to be seen whether I remember what I did next time. I'm showing the side where the roof edges are slightly out of line with the sides of the cab, which is painful to do but so far I haven't found the will to take it off and do it again, because I'm not sure whether it will come out better or worse. So far, carefully dismantling and refixing has proved the way to go but each slight misstep means another evaluation. But following my success with the cab I felt like carrying on and the front and rear 'hoods' have been done over the last few days. These two photos confirm it's far from a perfect piece of work, there's loads more to do and I still have a lot to learn before it's finished. But I think it's worth celebrating the fact that now at least this model does have the outline of the real thing. Incidentally I discovered a very useful gallery on Flickr which will help anyone else wanting to build the model, from ukrail: Hunslet 50T 325hp 0-6-0DH
  13. readingtype

    V230

    I suggest you keep it. It's not going to convert into a big pile of 009 if you sell it and it looks good. What's not to like? You might get the opposite answer if you asked in the 009 forum I guess. In which case, take your pick ;-)
  14. Final final point, despite being a little delicate these couplings were designed for serious use, specifically at FREMO meetings where running longish trains and doing lots of shunting is important. They couple and uncouple brilliantly if the height is correct and don't snag as much as the conventional NEM design.
  15. These are H0fine's OBK138. There's also 139 which is for vehicles with a deep bufferbeam or front 'skirt' -- small diesel shunters and railbuses for example. Yes, I have fitted the wagon couplings too. These have a loop of nicely magnetic steel wire that comes pre-bent. It would be a total pain to make! I thought the cast nickel silver ones were a little OTT (how dreadful to treat wagons as second rate, but there are more of them to work on). The plastic OBK120s fit the bill pretty well and are not that difficult to assemble; there is a central hook/turnbuckle/shaft silhouette laser cut from something vaguely acrylic and either side are triangular reinforcements that vaguely resemble the shackles that are cut from a similar plastic. The assembly work is slotting three 0.4mm n/s wire dowels into holes in the profile and sliding the triangular reinforcements over each side. You fit them through the convenient hole left by the moulded coupling hook if you are lucky enough to have a wagon made that way; otherwise careful drilling is needed and a 3D printed plug that turns a drilled hole back into a rectangular one (to stop the coupling rotating around its shaft) is available. It is made to look like the flanges above and below the prototype coupling hook. There's a jig (Einbaulehre) that is very helpful. In fact there are two, and the first one I got has lines marking the correct buffer height. Don't put the buffers of anything by Fleischmann or (deeper breath) Märklin against that without knowing what you are doing :-) The second can be fitted with a projecting knitting needle to stab a proffered bufferbeam at the right spot to start drilling. In theory OBKs should be used with sprung buffers. If you think about this, it gives a couple of mm at most of 'grace' on a sharp curve. Other things may well not be going well for the wagons involved by the time this is needed. I prefer to let the couplings project a little futher; if you fit them as designed you get a lovely close coupling and another mm doesn't really harm the appearance. R1 curves, forget them. OF course there were and are some very sharp curves out there in the world but vehicles are not always coupled together wherever they go ... Speaking of the appearance, what you can do with both the loco and wagon couplings is completely lose the NEM pocket. Have a look under the vehicle after this has been done and you soon realise how much realism can be gained by taking things away! (In the photo above the hook should actually be behind the buffer heads rather than in front). Final point: the plastic is not mega strong and I have already suffered some broken ones (the obvious weak point is the neck where the shaft enters the buffer beam). Etched metal would be more resilient.
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