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readingtype

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  1. Slightly bigger, slightly more expensive and probably considerably heavier alternative. Yours might be finished first though :-)
  2. Good to see. Speaking of G10 covered vans, I've started on the G10 I bought, and already become aware of my lack of skill in this area. Step 1 is the bracing behind the buffer beams. This absolutely has to be square so the bufferbeams are vertical and the underframe is not warped. I thought I had a clever plan to ensure everything would be true, but I can see they're ever so slightly off. Someone pointed out here or elsewhere that unlike soldered joints you can't really reflow plastic 'welds', but with some care and a drop or two of butanone I hope to make a gentle correction... Enjoy your build :-)
  3. It's no good trying to hide, we can see you behind that crankshaft :-) There are colour photos of the 52s that the US Army took to the States to evaluate. They had already been repainted and "decorated" by that time with stuff that would not have been on them in service. If it is of interest, these ones were charcoal grey all over -- darker than all the models and darker than the one in the Sinsheim photo above. I am not sure I would worry: some variant of "photographic grey" will bring out detail, you can weather it to highlight that, and few will be able to quibble.
  4. A real improvement over the original W-irons.
  5. That's excellent. Actually under that video he answers most of the obvious questions which have kindly been asked already by other people in English :-) I recommend a read. It's radio controlled (well, they are, both loco and tender). RC is something I'm interested in. Absolutely no knowledge at all at the moment.
  6. If you get their newsletters you may have seen that Roco and Fleischmann spares over ten years old are half price for February 2021 from the owners, the above-mentioned Modelleisenbahn GmbH. I get the impression from others that the cost of delivery from this company to the UK may be unchanged since 1 January 2021, but that is covered in another thread.
  7. Actually it's the Thunderer G10 van. I'm cheap and there was one on on an online auction site that didn't have far to travel. There used to be a model aircraft shop (Oxford Model Centre) near the bus stop in Oxford where I got off the bus from London. For several months there was a Trumpeter 1:35 BR 86 kit in the window, and eventually I arrived on the bus in business hours and couldn't resist the temptation to go in and ask about it. I was just about able to exercise enough self-control not to buy it -- good thing as I usually took my bike with me on the bus and would have struggled to lash up something to get the whole lot home in only the same number of pieces it was already in. But that was the seed planted. Here's an alternative finish you could aim for on the BR52: ÖBB black all over except red wheels, lots and lots of rust and flakes (and optional tree). In Das Heizhaus museum, Strasshof, Austria.
  8. And shows signs of actually becoming a fully-fledged island with a train ferry service by the sound of it :-)
  9. Sorry, in musing on this I have fallen into the trap of making a criticism when I intended to make an observation. Without contradicting myself, there are a couple of mitigating points I should make: Firstly I was thinking in particular of areas like the journals on the rods, which once mounted onto the wheels with washers, keepers, nuts etc in front will be partially hidden. Secondly these are parts which get a huge amount of attention from railway modellers as particularly in smaller scales they're difficult to make strongly enough to survive being played with, aka. operation while remaining even remotely accurate replicas of the real thing. Taken in the context of a massive loco like a BR 52, they will have no effect on the overall appearance at all and are far closer to the prototype than what's on a smaller scale model intended to run on a layout and made with stamped metal rods. I didn't mean to pour cold water on the model which I think is pretty exceptional!
  10. Looks like it will take a while, so best get started :-) I am exploring the 1:35 field too but I have started at the shallow end with a wagon :-) These are static kits and it's the overall appearance and detailing which matter most. On a diorama the loco and wagons might end up lying on their sides with the chassis details exposed. In contrast, railway models prioritise being able to pick up power, run along the track, etc and the underframe details come second. I think you can see how these different priorities play out in the comparison of these axles below: the plastic one is the 1:35 kit, the metal one is Slaters gauge 1 (1:32 scale). Apologies, I haven't actually assembled the plastic wheelset yet and it's still got its moulding pips. The wheel discs are nicely shaped, the tyres very fine and the flanges too, but the tyre running faces are not coned. Looking at the Trumpeter loco build reports around the web it strikes me some of the 'working parts' don't look right at all, especially around the wheels, valve gear, rods and the machined metal shapes they are made up of. You can see that, when model manufacturers who are not especially focused on the way railway vehicles look and work design models, they interpret these shapes differently. Not surprising, on reflection, but I guess that distortion would cut both ways -- there will be areas where railway model manufacturers will be less proficient.
  11. Just need to make some space. The underside of the floor should be the right height to take the new W-irons.
  12. Oh, what's this? @Epoche 3 W-irons under an old Roco Pwghs54? Fits nicely, looks better already. So long as I don't ruin the springs and hangers ... :-)
  13. Firstly, I have some replacement W-irons (Achshälter) from Epoche3D in Germany [one is on the right hand end of this E-wagen]. They travelled (adventurously but very slowly, once they reached the UK) through the semi-blockade. These are 3D printed replacements for the rather wibbly units used quite widely on Klein Modellbahn H0 wagons. The photo isn't great but you can see that they correct two faults in the original versions. Firstly the shape of the 'irons' is too narrow at the top. Secondly the axleboxes (Achslager) are very shallow mouldings, 2.3mm from the outer face to the inner face instead of 3.9mm on the replacements. The 3D mouldings are in a resin that can be gently bent. They need a little bit of cleaning up to remove a few artifacts of printing. They accept 2mm diameter plain brass bearings; when fully pushed home these allow the same length of axle as the original. I've replaced the axles with RP25 ones. Once I have worked out how everything will be held together (not by the coupling mounting, the original design) I will get the other axle sorted and see about some painting. Incidentally the bearings depicted (sorry, not brilliantly well) are the SKF roller bearing pattern used in France, Belgium, the Netherlands etc. Alternatives include the DB roller bearing pattern, which also inspired the Klein one on the left, and the DR oil box which has a distinctive circular cover with four fastening bolts. If you are interested in European wagons, I recommend a look at Epoche3D's web site. The owner specialises in private-owner wagons and there are some interesting models to look at -- prints can be ordered on request. I mention this as a satisfied customer, nothing more :-) Secondly I have an LS Models/Modern Gala SNCF K van. This is an interesting model that is built very much like a plastic kit with many parts of the underframe glued into place. It originally had absolutely dreadful pizza-cutter wheels that totally let it down. The W-irons on this model are the right shape but they bowed outwards so the axles were loose. I tried replacing the wheels but everything was sloppy and horrible and there was something wrong about the way the new wheels looked. Then I realised that they were too small. The UIC standard wagons have wheels 1,000mm in diameter, and it looks as though many earlier wagons in Germany also had wheels of this size (perhaps being nice and straightforward rational number). The French wagons preceeding the adoption of UIC designs have bigger wheels. By roughly 10%, which is most convenient as that's the magic ratio between 1:87 and 1:76, allowing me to use Alan Gibson wheels that in 1:76 scale represent the 1,000mm wheel or rather its imperial equivalent. Converting that into the model's dimensions that is the replacement of a standard H0 11mm wheel with an 00/EM 12mm solid disc carriage wheel. I still need to sort out the W-irons. I have discovered that the axleboxes and springs are glued in parts and these seem to have contributed to the distortion. I've prised them off and I am gently 'persuading' the W-irons to return to a sensible shape. The Gibson wheels are great but being for 00/EM models they are much too long and so I am, with a bit of consultancy from a club member who is well qualified to advice, shortening the axles and cutting new pinpoints. But trial and error is needed to work out the best length to cut the axle back to, because of the pre-existing distortion. Hopefully it all goes back together again, looks better and runs well. The brake blocks might be thought to need taking back, but if so it will only be a touch. No, the original wheels were not the correct diameter as far as I know. I banished them because they were bad and before taking any measurements!
  14. And one went to the USA along with some of the experimental Reichsbahn steam locos such as 52s with Kondenstender -- photo in recent Eisenbahn Kurier (not fake news, that's out of fashion now).
  15. readingtype

    CC65000 part 3

    Qu'est-ce-que vous cherchez? Bits and bobs for detailing: https://www.amf87.fr/prestashop/12-pièces-de-détail Buffers: https://www.amf87.fr/prestashop/16-tampons Health warning: do not spend too long on the AMF87 site. Also, I recommend a look at Pierre Dominique -- at the other end of the scale really, they are a big 'box-shifter', but the stuff at the back of their storeroom seems to go back 50 years ... so another health warning there. The search filters are really annoying but you may start to find things emerge after a bit. For German stuff (say you decide to put the old nose back on the V200) then the key source of detailing bits in German H0 is Weinert Modellbau and their catalogue is here. Modellbahnshop Lippe (another box-shifter with an astonishing range) stock a lot of their stuff and so does Weinert Bauteile. These are obviously suppliers inside the EU. I think we're clear that there aren't tariffs on toy trains etc (are we, BoJo?) so the real game is the postage. There is not a lot you can do about this but always add it to the cost of the bits you are looking at as you go. Reckon on spending from 10 to 20 Euro on postage. The specialists are usually the most expensive for all the usual reasons. I had a brief and fruitless correspondence with one of the suppliers above on this topic ;-) Ben
  16. I hope you can forgive me cutting to the chase, skipping the subsequent 16 pages and asking whether this has reached the point of being buyable? I can't see it here https://ukmodelshops.co.uk/catalogue/judithedge.html but that might be because I am blind as well as impatient :-) I actually have my fingers crossed for the later version with the two additional tubes and arch on the upper arm (forearm??) as fitted to class 86 and lots and lots of EMUs.
  17. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAL-Eisenbahnfarben says RAL 3000 until 1950, then RAL 3002. This conversion site from RAL to other standards (mainly proprietary) is quite useful: https://encycolorpedia.com/paints/ral I am not sure I could explain how to use it but I mustn't judge others by my dimwitted standards :-) Take for example their entry for carmine red (RAL 3002). Under 'Humbrol' it gives '153 Insignia Red'. And rates the accuracy of the match. The cliché of colour is that it's never the same. Not in real life when surface, substrate, lighting and reflection have a profound effect on what comes out of the pot and not in photos or videos where the technology used to record and reproduce distorts it. Apart from that it's easy! Ben
  18. On page 97 of Taschenbuch der Eisenbahn (vol. 1, Frankh'sche Verlag, Stuttgart, 1977) Horst J Obermayer 'decodes' the RIC grid (the one that is found at solebar level on carriages and starts with the maximum speed at the left). This grid includes lots of info about which (national) railways the vehicle is cleared to run on and the supply voltages it can accept. The anchor symbol may be featured on this grid. As far as I can tell, since it seems the anchor should have been included in the explanation but it is not, the anchor has the following meaning: The vehicle meets the requirements for transfer on ferries of the lines Rodby Faerge, Saßnitz -- Trelleborg, Reggio di Calabria -- Messina and Villa San Giovanni--Messina Then in the next box there are four additional codes for other specific lines: HH: Helsingor -- Helsingborg, KM: Copenhagen -- Malmö, KN: Korsor -- Nyborg, GW: Gedser -- Warnemünde. These routes are all detailed in Train Ferries of Western Europe by P Ransome-Wallis (Ian Allan, Shepperton, 1968) which I think is the book referred to by @Pacific231G. It's a classic, though as Turkey is included 'Western' should be taken with a pinch of sea salt. Incidentally Taschenbuch der Eisenbahn is great too if you are into Deutsche Bundesbahn Epoche IV :-)
  19. 'Need' might be too strong, but I'd be very grateful. I plan to put together some transfer artwork for French stock. Ben
  20. Gratuitous photos of S160s... Look how they had to restrict the cylinder diameter to accommodate that most civilised feature of British railway practice, the high level platform (nobody thought of low-level carriage floors until later). This is 5197 Here's Roco's model just in case anyone needed a refresher. I will repaint the 'brass' parts on the valve gear and motion one day. Speaking of brass, an etched USATC owner's plate (the red one) and Superheater Company patent notice (the black one) would finish off the smokebox nicely too.
  21. Ignorant question, apologies, but has anyone in preservation contemplated re-engining a loco such as a class 26 with something else? Did the Sulzer model used in the type 2s develop further after the 1950s?
  22. Thanks Neil. Even leaving aside the items relevant to this thread, that is an extremely dangerous page for me to look at. I'll have to ration my visits and pick off the goodies one at a time.
  23. Here are overall dimension diagrams of German wagons. The source is 'Deutsche Bundesbahn - Die Güterwagen der Regelbauart', a publication of the Deutsche Bundesbahn's HQ in 1950. I said the German stock was well documented but this source may be helpful.
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