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    Lizant, France

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  1. I note you intend to stick with your Elite. For my part I have an Elite which controls the trains via Railmaster . Railmaster has the ability to run two controllers so I have an eLink powered by an Elite 4amp power pack as the second controller which runs all the accessory decoders. So basically I have 4 amps running trains and 4 amps running accessories. My layout is smaller than yours (about 150 yards of track and 60 pairs of points) and it all works swimmingly well! I have about 40 locos on the track at any one time about 10 of which are sound fitted. As you have a large layout there is a way of making Railmaster of more use. My railway loft is 30 ft long so I use a wireless mouse and 3 monitor screens so I can run the entire layout "cordlessly" from multi locations. You pays yer money...........
  2. JST

    Noisy Bachmann Class 47

    Well I went to try some of the ideas given here only to find the loco had cured itself! I can only think that the gear train in the bogie(s) had dried out and the lubrication I gave it has now seeped into the gear run. Anyway, I will monitor the situation. Again, thanks for your help.
  3. JST

    Noisy Bachmann Class 47

    Thanks for all this. As soon as I can get back to the railway room I will check these ideas out and report back. Many thanks for your help.
  4. My Bachmann class 47 is driving my round the bend! It runs well (DCC Lenz Silver decoder) but at slow speed it emits an intermittent grumbling/grinding sound. I assumed it was the dry motor bearing syndrome so took the thing apart completely, oiled the bearings and tested the motor directly with a dc supply. It ran perfectly. I assembled/lubricated the bogies and propshafts but the sound persists. The odd thing is that if I run it at shunt speed towards a buffer it makes the noise until it hits the buffers and then sits there with all wheels slowly spinning on the rails in perfect silence! The only thing I can think of is there may be some sort of issue with the gears in the bogies which goes away when the wheels are under a bit of tension when held against the buffers with the wheels spinning on the track. Any ideas anyone?
  5. You are of course quite right that Railmaster is not "automation" but unless I misread the OP he was looking for some "computer control" which Railmaster does.
  6. Everyone has their own needs and preferences as far as DCC Controllers are concerned and I guess you will need to do some research before settling on what is best for you. It is oft said on this forum that if you can, you should get to a shop that has various controllers you can try before deciding. If you are happy with the Select (which will be fine for the short term) you may like to consider/look at a Hornby Elite and Railmaster The Elite receives some criticism for it's menu driven functions but when coupled with Railmaster software it is extremely competent. I run a layout with about 40 locos and 60 sets of points all controlled with Railmaster and it works very well.
  7. Sounds nice. Does it fit a Class 47 or am I better off with a double iPhone speaker?
  8. Correct! I forgot that it had to be done to my loco.
  9. It is always possible. I can't help with the space question but I can tell you that when, out of reasons to do with nostalgia, I converted my Wrenn "Dorchester" to DCC I got the armature rewound and the magnet re-magnetised. This brought the amperage pulled by the loco right down to an acceptable level for a DCC decoder. Even so, I used a Digitrax decoder that handles 1.8amps.
  10. JST

    Lima DCC sound

    My Lima locos were "inherited" so cost me nothing. Soldering in a bit of wire and a general service cost next to nothing and now they run quite well so I consider myself ahead of the game. However, I would not put sound in them as I reserve that for my more expensive locos. Each to their own.
  11. JST

    Lima DCC sound

    I have several Lima diesels and they can be made to be quiet with a bit of work. There are youtube videos (I think!) about how to do this but mainly it involves stripping down and cleaning/properly lubricating the gearing. I have also fitted CD type motors to mine which are more responsive and quieter. Fitting sound is another thing - before even contemplating it you need to improve the pickup arrangements and bin the traction tyres. A soldered connection wire between the non driven bogie pickup and the decoder is a start. This bypasses the awful clip arrangement.
  12. As an experiment I tried 2 metres of 7/02 wire from the decoder to the motor and it fired just fine.
  13. I am not sure I like the look of the wiring connection to the ADS decoder. It looks (but photos can be deceptive) as though the white wire has a deal of excess exposed non insulated wire. If any of that has touched the green wire input it will have blown the solenoid output. The clicking you can hear may be the frog power relay which will be unaffected. Trim the wires so no bare wire remains exposed and try another of the solenoid ports. Turn the decoder off and press the CDU discharge button before doing anything. I have a lot of these decoders and they are great but they do not like "shorted" wires. I found it incredibly difficult to get the recommended size wire into the terminal blocks so I tried 7/02 dropper wire and it works just fine as long as you keep the cable run to a sensible length.
  14. I don't use cork underlay - the track is flat on the baseboard. I find underlay deadens the sound too much for my taste. I guess the 16mm chipboard I use for baseboards soaks up some sound anyway.
  15. The 18mm is from the baseboard up and the track is code 100. I thought about the recess but I was cutting the platform from pine board and my carpentry skills being what they are I was not sure about getting the recess in the right place! However, I am happy with it as it is. I think that in another thread somewhere, someone posted a picture of Banbury where a great chunk had been cut out of the platform by way of a recess.
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