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John ks

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  • Location
    Brisbane Australia
  • Interests
    Trains Mostly HO US prototype
    Still have a soft spot for BR & Electric locos

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  1. It would be interesting to see a close up of Digitrax decoder with the blue heat shrink removed It might be possible to determine which part of the decoder failed & narrow down why it failed John
  2. I have had this problem on an Athearn loco. the track + wire was bridging to the motor + on the motherboard (these 2 connections are joined on the DCC blanking plug so this fault will only become apparent on DCC) With the blanking plug installed the loco ran fine on DC, when I fitter a decoder it ran ok in one direction but the magic smoke was released in the other direction Have you tried the decoders in a decoder tester or another loco John
  3. I had what sounds like a similar problem & fixed it by removing the suppression capacitors & inductor next to the motor John
  4. A few questions What scale are the points? Are you using separate Track bus & accessory busses? If so then the frog wiring should come from the track bus not the accessory bus If OO peco have you cut the links under the rails from the point blade to the frog? I have a few OO9 points on my OO/HO layout & had problems with the frog shorting The blades are not isolated from the frog which meant that if the point motor was not aligned properly the the switch in the point motor would change over before the blade moved away from the rail causing a short until
  5. Addiing to Allan Andi & Oldddubbers . Depending on which way the tortoises are mounted, I.E. before the throw bar or after will determine which connection on the Tortoise (2 or 3) goes to railA In the drawing if the Tortoise on the LH gives the wrong frog polarity then change the wires from the DCC bus to the Tortiose as shown on the RH side hope this helps John
  6. If the following diagram is the circuit you are describing then my answer is no The following 2 diagrams should be ok for building lighting By adjusting the resistor values in the top diagram each LED's brightness can be adjusted by varying the value of its resistor. I would start with 1k resistors, if too bright then try 2k2, 4k7 or even 10k In the lower drawing the 3 LEDs in series should be identical(from the same batch) for best results I would start with a 1k & adjust the value up or down to get the required brightness
  7. I tend to agree with 5BarVT The added beam should provide some added strength & rigidity John
  8. This problem has been raised before & several people (including me) have come up with the nail polish method Disadvantages it increases the length of the dead section at the V It will ware off eventually Advantages Cheap Quick Easy What FoxUnpopuli said but with pictures The red part is the minimum area needed to be covered with nail polish John
  9. In case you missed it, this is how i repaired mine John
  10. Another very unhappy customer Got the email from rails 1/2hour ago, Rails still shows the order as pending? John
  11. If you mean the blue arrow it should get a feed from dropper 3 (black connection ( highlighted rail to show where that dropper feeds)) provided you are happy to rely on fishplates insulated fishplates show in white You could eliminate 2 points by running all 4 tracks to the turntable. provided the turntable is suitable John
  12. What 40110andyb said but in pictures See drawing dropper 13 & 14 The black side of feed 4 is necessary, the red side is not necessary but as JimFin said The above modified drawing shows the minimum number of droppers need to make the layout work But as Gavin says John
  13. Should be OK provided you follow all safety requirements John
  14. Resetting the thermal overload. Pushing down on the copper contact near the top (marked FUSE) might reset it Resistors R4 R5 R6 are missing , the pieces with the red arrows point to what is left of one of them & i have put the pieces back where I think they came from. Resistors R4 R5 R6 were 3 resistors in parallel. By paralleling resistors you can get a low resistance that will handle more power than a single resistor Say you need a 0.33ohm 3watt resistor then three 1ohm 1 watt resistors will work The transistors Q3 & Q4 (yellow circles) look l
  15. If I am reading the outputs on the Hornby controller correctly then it has 2 outputs 1 0-12VDC to control trains 2 16vAC for accessory's eg point motors If you are using Lights/ signals that need a DC input then you will need a rectifier between the accessory output & the device Looking at the controller it shows a 16VAC input, this suggests that there is a separate Plug pack (wallwart, power supply etc, a rose by any other name------------ ) for the controller If this is the case then why connect your CDU to the controller when it can be connected
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