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John ks

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Everything posted by John ks

  1. Here is how I would have done it The top image requires removing the 2 diodes & the 2 Coils (which you have done) & cut the PCB (printed circuit board) tracks in 2 places & add the red jumper wire as shown This isolates the 2 lights from the rest of the circuit & gives a place for the blue wire to be connected. If you want to isolate the chassis from all electrical connections then the option is to cut the PCB track & extend the wire from the rear bogie to the front bogie connection The lower image shows the lights wired for half wave operation, still requires removing the 2 diodes & the 2 Coils This wiring allows the loco to still pick up power from the catenary if that is wanted Don't forget to put the OH/Tk switch into the track position John Edit Here's one i prepared earlier, the big difference is that i treated the RH end as the front so red/black, orange/grey & white/yellow are all swapped as compared to the above images The blue wire with the green & purple wires from the decoder are not connected are terminated in the heat shrink near the left end of the pic
  2. Quote from an Email from Accurascale "The legacy of the pandemic is still being felt, with a backlog of projects which are being made by smaller workforces due to social distancing protocols and recruitment difficulties as freedom of movement was restricted for migrating assembly workers. As a result the 92 will begin production in the coming weeks and is now slated for delivery in Q3 2022. We apologise for this delay, but it is something completely out of anyone's control and reflective of the whole manufacturing industry as we begin to emerge from the pandemic restrictions. " If the highlighted parts are correct then does production take between 9 & 12 months ? (assuming Q3 is July to September) John
  3. John ks

    Hornby APT 2020

    Confirming what has been said in the last few posts. I seem to recall seeing the coupling between the power cars & the coaches & didn't see any electrical connection between them i would hope there is some sort of electrical connection between articulated coaches but wont know until i have one in my hot little hands If you want sound with your DCC then it may require up to 4 Sound decoders (1 for each power car & 1 for each DT assuming you want the horn sound coming from the DT & not the Power car) John
  4. I Had the same problem & IIRC it was one of these locos Remove the worm gear retaining clip from the gear tower. Gently pry off the worm retaining clip by spreading the out the sides shown with the red arrows Lift out the Worm gear assembly ( don't loose the rear bearing & washer) engage the drive shaft into the flywheel engage the coupling cup over the drive shaft while lowering the worm assembly back into the gear tower Replace the retaining clip onto the gear tower the drive shaft should have a little back/front movement but not enough that the drive shaft falls out Hope this helps John
  5. Looking at the couplings they look to be lower than scale height I understand that they are at this height to keep the NEM pocket at the correct height to allow for the fitting of other couplings I had a thought & realise that it is probably to late to retool the couplings pockets but if you were to add a second MEN pocket above the standard NEM pocket then the deliner coupling could be placed in the top pocket to be closer to scale height. The modified pics should illustrate my idea Should the diaphragm completely surrounds the couplings or not( as per you model), there are images of both arrangements John
  6. This is a bit like the "how long is a piece of string " question It depends on specification of the LED, the series resistance value, if there are more than 1 LED in series with each resistor & how bright the LEDs are this will be a bit inaccurate but will give results that should work OK First ignore the LED & calculate the current draw for the series resistor A 1K resistor connected across 12V will draw 12mA (from the formula V=IR "I" being current) 8 resistors across 12V will draw 96mA which is less than the 100mA rating of your decoder If you put a LED in the circuit then the current draw will be less so in the above case you could put at least 8 LED/resistor sets for each decoder output If you are referring to the LED strips that come on rolls with each group of 3 LEDs fed by one resistor Then you may find that with the onboard resistor they are still to bright Cut a group of 3 off the strip & connect another resistor is series with that group of 3 LEDS Keep increasing its resistance until the LEDs are at a suitable brightness With a 1k resistor the max current draw for the group of 3 LEDs will be 12mA as shown above, Now you can have 24 LEDS per output(8 groups of 3) With a 4k7 resistor the max current draw for the group of 3 LEDs will be 2.55mA. Now you can have 39 LEDS per output (13 groups of 3) With a 10k7 resistor the max current draw for the group of 3 LEDs will be 1.2mA. Now you can have 96 LEDS per output (32 groups of 3) Hope this helps John
  7. I seem to recall reading that some Heljan locos were wired wrong If this is the case you have several choices Contact Heljan to see if they can help Correct the wiring yourself Change some CV's to remedy the problem It will depend on what you are using to program your Decoders If you are manually entering values into CV's then you will need a manual for the decoder*** Here is a couple of screen shots from my setup I am using JMRI DecoderPro connected via a Sprog II to an ESU Decoder tester*, With a NCE decoder** After JMRI identifies the decoder go to function mapping & swap F0(f) & F0(r) as shown in the images Or you could do something similar in "lights" by changing "Output 1 active" from "Only in forward" to "Only in reverse" Repeat for output 2 Hope this helps John *instead of the tester you could place your loco on a track connected to the Sprog ** The decoder that was handy to get the screen shots *** find the section on function mapping/lighting & change the relevant CV's to suit
  8. It is a choke, also known as an inductor It is there to reduce RFI (Radio Frequency Interference ) on DC & can be deleted on DCC If I wasn't clear in the previous post the wire from the inductor needs to be unsoldered from the RH motor brush & replaced with the orange wire from the decoder If you wish to retain the inductor then the following drawing should help John
  9. They are really small bulbs They will work on DCC provided their current draw does not exceed the decoder function output If my knowledge of Fleischmann is correct then the lights are controlled by diodes which are a small disc between the lamp & its contact (Represented by the grey disc in the drawing) You need to isolate the motor brushes from the track pickups Disconnect the red wire to the rear light at the motor Disconnect the & remove the choke (is used for RFI suppression in DC it is not necessary for DCC) Cut the bridge on the circuit board that holds the brushes (marked on the drawings) Once this is done the brushes should be insulated from the chassis & all wheels Use a multimeter to check The 2 drawings represent the before & after electrical connections in the loco The thick blue line represents the metal chassis of the loco If the uninsulated wheels that connect to the chassis are on the left hand side of the of the loco then the colour of the wires from the decoder will be to NMRA standards If not then swap the red & black wires to the decoder(IE red goes to where black was & black goes to where red was) & similarly swap the orange & grey wires to the decoder Regarding the lights Front light( cylinder end), disconnect the red wire from the pickup & connect it to the white wire from the decoder Rear light Disconnect the red wire at the motor end & connect to the yellow decoder wire If one or both lights don't work as expected the the diode for that light can be removed , turned around & replaced or removed completely The blue wire from the decoder is not needed as the lights get half wave DCC from the chassis If you decide to go to LED,s then you will need a resistor for each LED & the blue wire from the decoder will need to be connected to each led John
  10. John ks

    Hornby APT 2020

    To the best on my knowledge they are a Janney tightloc coupling First picture of one i saw was on a Santa-Fe F7 Passenger loco (Type F) Quote from Wikipedia " They are designed with mechanical features which reduce slack in normal operation and prevent telescoping in derailments, yet remain compatible with other Janney types used by North American freight railroads." According to wikipedia type H are used on class 321, networker & other EMU's My guess that when used on the APT-P they lock the 2 couplings together when the power car & first coach coupling twist (rotate relative to each other) especially if the tilting of the the 2 cars is out of sync John
  11. John ks

    Hornby APT 2020

    If i am reading Hornby's site correctly then July for the 5 & 7 car sets & September for the rest of the coaches & power car Hope this helps John
  12. Short answer yes Longer answer The decoder tester is a virtual loco, in that it has all the electrical components found in a loco IE. motor, lights & speaker , so yes How you connect the tester may make a difference as to which decoders can be checked EG if you connect to your DCC programming track then it is limited to that DCC system's capability It can be connected to a computer(running JMRI decoder pro) through a Sprog then programming is limited to the capability of JMRI It could be connected to a computer(running LokProgrammer) using a LokProgrammer, my understanding is this setup works best with ESU decoders Sorry if i got a bit longwinded Short answer No If you are using multiple speakers than the polarity of one speaker to the other is important but the connection of the group of speakers to the decoder is not Regarding the other questions , i don't know John
  13. Maybe the system needs to be cycled once for the frog polarity to be synced with the point motor? Is the frog phasing (polarity)of both points correct when, 1—the system is first switched on? 2—when both points are set to straight 3—when both points are switched to curved Are both frogs connected to the frog pwr connections? (If yes then this could be your problem) Or Is one frog connected to the “frog PWR” * connection & the other frog connected to the “DPDT Sw2” connections then one frog may be the incorrect phase If this is the case then swap the red & black wires for the corresponding frog at the cobalt SS connection John * I am assuming that the “frog PWR” connections are a DPDT set of contacts similar to the “DPDT Sw” connections
  14. At least one is now on its way to Oz Thanks to the team at Accurascale John
  15. Depending on how complicated you want to be I'd be inclined to go this way "Sw" indicates where a switch could be placed to isolate the section If you wanted to be able to use 2 controllers then you could feed them through a DPDT centre off Switch to each section I've shown one section wired for block control John Edit As Cliff pointed out in the next post there was a serious error in the drawing . Should be fixed now
  16. Are we there yet sorry that makes me sound like the impatient child in the back seat Has there been any updates on this model John
  17. I would be a little concerned that bypassing the resistors might reduce the life expectancy of the relay on the GM500 I would be inclined to put a second resistor in parallel with the existing resistor The existing resistor looks to be a 1K resistor A second 1k resistor in parallel would give a total resistance of 500 Ohms. if the GM500 works reliably the job done An alternative would be to get a selection of resistors with values ranging between 100ohms & 1000ohms Leave the bypass in place and put a resistor in series between the yellow wire & the GM500, (two resistors, one in each yellow wire will be required) Start with the largest value resistor & work down, in value until the GM 500 works reliably John
  18. There's nothing missing its using that new adaptive camouflage John
  19. I Have had a similar problem with a long crossing & I fixed it by painting the rails with clear nail varnish The rails will need to be painted in four places, 2 are shown in the drawing I would think that the shape of the wheel will determine how bad the problem will be A conical section wheel should be less prone to shorts as only the flange side of the tread touches the (red) rail, the outside of the tread will ride above the black rail & there is no short a cylindrical section wheel is more likely to touch both red & black rails & short You may think that as the wheel goes from the red rail onto the plastic section it only shorts to the black rail while it either on the plastic rail or in the crossing gap, but in a loco that wheel is connected to all the other wheels on that side by pickups Hope this all makes sense & is helpful I think those rails are there for strength & rigidity If they were plastic it would be easy to snap the crossing in half & if the plastic deformed for any reason then the crossing could go banana shape John
  20. If i understand correctly, the short happens when the wheel bridges the insulfrog The drawing shows the coarse of the wheel & where the short can occur A fix is to paint the area of the insulfrog (highlighted) with fingernail varnish (I use clear nail varnish) This fix can last for years depending on the use & is easy to reapply One disadvantage is short wheelbase locos could stall due to the length of the dead section at the frog being lengthened John
  21. I didn't pick up on that , what i was referring to was early code 100 points , code 75 points should be closer to NMRA standards Back to back's & point clearances are still critical for catch rails to do their job correctly A NMRA standards gauge is very helpful But i just looked & their price ranges from US$16 From MNRA to US$38 on ebay John
  22. I am fairly sure the E train wheels are to NMRA RP25 standards Peco point standards have changed over the years Originally to a coarser scale to accommodate Triang Flanges & back to back I was having problems with RP 25 wheels derailing at the frog of Peco & was told of a modification that improves the running of RP25 wheelsets Adding shim (red in the drawing) to the catch rails opposite the frog . They can be made from plastic strips about 5 thou thick & glued to the catch rail (much easier on older points with plastic catch rails) The following drawing, while a bit rough should give an idea how the problem occurs & how the shim fixes it With a little side force (blue arrow) on the wheel set the wheel can try to go up the wrong side of the frog & derail Adding the shim pulls the wheel set away from the frog & ensures the flange follows the flange way through the frog John
  23. As i said earlier my only knowledge of the BM1 is from research on the internet I've changed the drawing to move the gaps to the RH rail in direction of travel & the feed colours (i originally picked the feed colours at random) Which terminal of the BM1 that is connected to the breaking section may be critical to the operation of the BM1 Nigel posted while i was writing this post Anything i was going to say have been done by Nigel who is a lot more knowledgeable then me regarding the BM1 John
  24. A photo of the wiring might help Is it an XO4 type of motor If XO4 are both brushes insulated John
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