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John ks

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  1. Checked the web site 1/2Hrs ago & the RTC set was in stock Got one set My Account on the Web site shows the price as £247.00 but the invoice shows the price as $247.00 Seems there is a glitch in the system.
  2. I think I learned to mirror image the of the underside of the PCB from Bigclivedotcom SHMD did a much better job with the circuit & explanation. John
  3. I agree with the previous posters that the circuit suggests a CDU Baring mistakes the circuit is below My best guess on how it works is. TB1 is the input voltage, could be AC or DC, If DC positive must be on the D1 side & D1 acts as a reverse voltage protection, if AC then D1 acts as a 1/2 wave rectifier. R1 & Q1 are there to reduce the inrush current when C1,C2,C4,C5 are charged. C3 will be charger directly via R1 When a point is thrown C1,C2,C4,C5 are discharged via D2 & C3 is discharger directly. Why C3 is wired like it is beyond me. If there is a back EMF from the coil then D2 & D3 will protect the circuit TB2 is the output John
  4. I had a look at the switches & if I understand correctly then these circuits should work. If I understand correctly then there are internal resistors for the LEDs the circuit shows the frog wiring which can be deleted if required. The LEDs are controlled by the switch in the Tortise Circuit on the left requires a DC12V & a AC12V power supply. The circuit on the right requires a more complex +12v,0V,-12V power supply. I believe DCC Concepts make a +12v,0V,-12V power supply. If the LEDs are out of sync with the point, then change the green & orange wires at the tortise If the frog polarity is out of sync with the point, then change the Red & Grey wires at the tortise Hope this helps. John
  5. Another unusual was a Burlington Northern SDP40 which operated for about year with the rear truck replaced by an experimental EMD "B+B" 4-axle radial bogie. They removed the centre motor from the front bogie making the loco an A1A-BoBo. The rear bogies were made by cutting & shorting 2 Co bogies to convert them to Bo bogies. I think the reason making the Co into an A1A was so that the loco had 6 traction motors as it originally did, which would simplify the wiring by only powering 6 traction motors rather than 7. John
  6. This is QR 3205 during a test run. It was parked on a siding at Kuraby Station. the curve was one of the sharpest in Qld & has since been removed. This shows the centre bogie partially outside the loco body. the springs usually sit vertically on straight track. This is 3283 still at Comeng where it was being built, only 3 more were built after this one Comeng Queensland ceased to be after the last Loco was done. As to why Tri-Bo was chosen, it may have been to spread the axel loading. These Locos were primarily used to haul coal from the mines to the port at Hay Point Qld John
  7. If the decoder is connected to track power, and there is a resistance directly across its motor (i.e. brush) output terminals, then how is it not connected? Edited 3 hours ago by SRman The first drawing won't work & is what Butler is saying in image form The second image showing the L1 & L2 terminals linked & should work. Image 3 shows an alternative connection for the resistor. When I first read the original post, I read it be connected like image 1 & in that case Butler would be correct. Upon further reading I understood the resistor to be connected directly to the decoder & if that is the way SRman understood it, then SRman is correct. Thats my opinion, for what it's worth. John Edit the images were originally posted by Marcus-Jay
  8. Ordered mine in Dec 2019 & an hour ago I got the email that it's on its way.
  9. My Caroline has not been sent yet, should I start to panic? Edit, no need to panic, their on their way as of 6 sept, I also have 4 nukes on order that haven't been sent. I asked if these orders could be combined & both orders have a note "Combine with -07-- if possible". I have sent emails to Revolution, which have been unanswered. John
  10. I have converted some Hornby wagons to Accurascale magnetic chain couplings. I cut the chain on the magnetic coupling which left the magnet, a split link & 3 full links. I tried to place the last link over the existing hook but found this too fiddley. I replaced the Hornby hook with one bent from Nickle silver wire. (see Photos). Remove 2 screws to separate the body from the chassis which will require a bit of force as they are clipped together fairly tightly. Bend the new hook, the exact length is not critical, but should be long enough to reach to where there is enough plastic for a hole. (You may notice that the hooks in the photo are different lengths. the one on the left could have been a bit longer & the one on the right a bit shorter.) Test fit the new hook, mark & drill a hole for the bent end of the hook. Feed the last loop of the coupling over the wire hook then feed the wire through the buffer beam & pust the bend into the hole, a little super glue to hold the wire in place until the body & chassis are rejoined. There are flanges on the body underside that may need trimming to clear the wire. Hope this helps. John
  11. My 2cents worth If the voltage across the capacitor exceeds its rated voltage, then you risk destroying the capacitor. With three 3V capacitors in series a Zener less than 9V less should be used, the 8.2V zener would be ideal In option 2 if you left the 15V Zener in the circuit then the voltage across each capacitor would have been 15V/3capicators = 5v per capacitor which is way outside their specification A fourth option would be to increase the value of the resistor, you could try 200 ohms. The downside to this option it the charge time would be increased Th startup current would reduce from 0.15A to 0.075A & power from 2.25W to 1.125W When the pack is fully charged the power used by the resistor will halve to 0.245W John
  12. Do you mean something like this This power car has been repowered using Heljan bogies & chassis made from brass bars. Like the retooled APT the chassis is not connected to the body and the body tilts around the chassis. John
  13. You could use relays controlled by points The drawing shows how this could be done John
  14. Does this version have a switch on the underside of the controller, if so, is it on? From what I can see on the photos the AC comes in goes through a Fuse (LP 60 )(the largish yellow disc near the knob.) to the 4 diodes (full wave rectifier) to 2 large capacitors that smooth the DC from the rectifier The voltage at the AC input socket should be about 16V AC Depending on the power supply If the voltage across the Fuse(LP60)Measured between points A & B is greater than 0V then the fuse has probably failed The voltage across the rectifier should be 16V AC on the input side & 16-20V DC on the DC side The voltage across the large blue capacitors should be the same as the output side of the rectifier The solder joints on the diodes don’t look perfect If the AC voltage is good but the DC voltage is a lot lower than 16-20V then the diodes may be faulty or they may need resoldering The rest of the circuit is above my pay grade. John
  15. Tried to run a 16-coach train (with original magnetic couplings) & it continually decoupled between coaches 2 & 3 after a couple hundred millimetres. Tried Kadee & Hornby/Roco couplings, they worked but I wasn’t happy with either Was going to borrow Fleischmann Profi from other wagons when I found a half empty bulk pack of Profi’s that I had forgotten about. With those & some I borrowed from other wagons I had enough to do the first 14 coaches After loosing a couple of troublesome bogies, I finally had a 16-coach train that would do laps without uncoupling Apart from the magnetic couplings that didn’t work for me I am otherwise happy with the train The loop of track has a 2.3% grade which the class 92 handled easily.
  16. IF, when you say "fitted with the HM7000" do you mean fitted with the decoder then my understanding is YES My understanding is that the decoder needs power & that power can be DC, DCC or an onboard battery, (see my previous post)
  17. I wonder if Hornby & Soundtray Blunami had some sort of collaboration Both systems seem very similar One thing Blunami talks about is dead track,I.E. battery power The next bit is pure speculation & to be done at your risk If you were to connect a battery to the stay alive socket I would think the loco would run until the battery went flat Another possibility would be to have a rechargeable battery with a charging circuit connected to the pickups &the battery feeding the decoder I also think that if you ran this loco on a DC layout you could run a DC loco controlled by a normal DC controller at the same time Maybe someone clever than me could design a Power Bank that uses a battery instead of super capacitor’s & give the loco a run time of up to an hour with no recharge & could recharge from the track when there was voltage on the track. John
  18. 92010 Left Accurascale 6 hrs ago on its long trip to Oz Might see it this year
  19. Here is a Britannia that i have had since new in the 60,s If you look closely you can see the open axle boxes It has the motor (X04) in the boiler John
  20. Just got an email from RevOlutiOn Tracking shows mine at Langley GB & is cleared and awaiting international departure Might get to Oz by Christmas but not very likely. John
  21. I have added Labels & other minor changes to help identify the parts The LED looked to be connected the wrong way around so I altered it (I don’t see how it could work as shown in your drawing) All Voltage measurements will be from the (-) connection 1---- Measure the volts at point A, It should be up to 16VDC, if much lower then AndyID could be correct With a train running the Voltage at A should be constant, If there is a large voltage drop then D1 – D4 or CB1 could be faulty If you suspect CB1 then bridge it out & recheck 2---- Measure the volts at point B & move the Pot (VR1)from 0 to full, It should vary from full voltage measured at A to 0V If the voltage changes evenly with the movement of VR1 then VR1 is probably OK 3---- Disconnect R1 from T1 at the red x, move VR1, measure at C, if you get similar voltages as at point B then R1 should be ok Reconnect R1 to T1 That leaves 3 components ,T1 T2 & D5 I’d start by replacing D5 (cheapest component) then T1 & finally T2 John
  22. I expect they will be sent out in alphabetical order first by country using the standard alphabet Then by name using my new & improved alphabet I.E. STUVWXYZABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQR John S
  23. As a Queenslander I only started getting interested in QR models when Wuiske Models produced RTR models My next problem was that while i had a decent length of narrow gauge it was all HOn3 (& a loop of HOn2½ /OO9) I looked at my layout & decided that to add some HOn3½ track to the layout would be too difficult. For what it is worth I may have been the first person to do this conversion. At the same time there was a gentleman in the US (possibly from Soundtrax )who had a couple of Wuiske's locos & was looking to convert one loco to 3ft gauge. I got this information from my local hobby shop who relayed my efforts to him. First i got a pack of wagons & regauged them to see if it was possible & it worked fine Next & scariest was to purchase a loco If i remember correctly it may be possible to do the conversion with the bogies still in the body but a lot easier with the bogies out of the body There is a cover that holds the 3 axles in place, unclip it & the 3 axles should come out ' twist the half axles from the gear push the wheel along the half axle 0.75mm. a wheel puller or a vice can be used Assemble the half axles into the gears, replace the wheel sets into the bogie. there is almost 0 side play with the regauged wheelsets. Now for the fun part, the plate that holds the wheels in place needs to be trimmed so that the wheels don't foul it In the pictures, the yellow line shows before trimming & the red lines show where I trimmed it to After the conversion the locos run almost as good as before. I currently have 3 locos & 20ish wagons all running next D&RG Steam Wuiske Models make two versions of their models, one with narrow gauge bogies 3'6" (12mm) or the other with standard gauge bogies which is completely wrong but if you want QR models & already got a standard gauge layout then it is a compromise that some people are happy to make. My compromise is a bit like OO scale where the track gauge is a bit narrower than it should be, but we'll keep that our secret Hope this helps John
  24. Most of the following has already been explained but if you prefer working with images Top image is a representation of your 2 layouts each with its own Power Cab Next image is both layouts joined using one Power Cab & the second Power cab configured as a pro-cab Last drawing is both layouts joined & using a SB5 Both power cabs use the coiled cable to make them pro-cabs Hope this helps john
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