John ks
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Posts posted by John ks
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Checked the web site 1/2Hrs ago & the RTC set was in stock
Got one set
My Account on the Web site shows the price as £247.00 but the invoice shows the price as $247.00
Seems there is a glitch in the system.
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11 hours ago, SHMD said:
(John ks beat me to it but I think we went to the same school!)
I think I learned to mirror image the of the underside of the PCB from Bigclivedotcom
SHMD did a much better job with the circuit & explanation.
John
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I agree with the previous posters that the circuit suggests a CDU
Baring mistakes the circuit is below
My best guess on how it works is.
TB1 is the input voltage, could be AC or DC, If DC positive must be on the D1 side & D1 acts as a reverse voltage protection, if AC then D1 acts as a 1/2 wave rectifier.
R1 & Q1 are there to reduce the inrush current when C1,C2,C4,C5 are charged. C3 will be charger directly via R1
When a point is thrown C1,C2,C4,C5 are discharged via D2 & C3 is discharger directly. Why C3 is wired like it is beyond me.
If there is a back EMF from the coil then D2 & D3 will protect the circuit
TB2 is the output
John
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I had a look at the switches & if I understand correctly then these circuits should work.
If I understand correctly then there are internal resistors for the LEDs
the circuit shows the frog wiring which can be deleted if required.
The LEDs are controlled by the switch in the Tortise
Circuit on the left requires a DC12V & a AC12V power supply.
The circuit on the right requires a more complex +12v,0V,-12V power supply.
I believe DCC Concepts make a +12v,0V,-12V power supply.
If the LEDs are out of sync with the point, then change the green & orange wires at the tortise
If the frog polarity is out of sync with the point, then change the Red & Grey wires at the tortise
Hope this helps.
John
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Another unusual was a Burlington Northern SDP40 which operated for about year with the rear truck replaced by an experimental EMD "B+B" 4-axle radial bogie. They removed the centre motor from the front bogie making the loco an A1A-BoBo. The rear bogies were made by cutting & shorting 2 Co bogies to convert them to Bo bogies.
I think the reason making the Co into an A1A was so that the loco had 6 traction motors as it originally did, which would simplify the wiring by only powering 6 traction motors rather than 7.
John
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This is QR 3205 during a test run.
It was parked on a siding at Kuraby Station.
the curve was one of the sharpest in Qld & has since been removed.
This shows the centre bogie partially outside the loco body.
the springs usually sit vertically on straight track.
This is 3283 still at Comeng where it was being built, only 3 more were built after this one
Comeng Queensland ceased to be after the last Loco was done.
As to why Tri-Bo was chosen, it may have been to spread the axel loading.
These Locos were primarily used to haul coal from the mines to the port at Hay Point Qld
John
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11 hours ago, SRman said:16 hours ago, Butler Henderson said:
The resistor therefore was not connected so had no effect in acting a dummy load - the L1 and L2 conncections need linking together.
If the decoder is connected to track power, and there is a resistance directly across its motor (i.e. brush) output terminals, then how is it not connected?
Edited 3 hours ago by SRman
The first drawing won't work & is what Butler is saying in image form
The second image showing the L1 & L2 terminals linked & should work.
Image 3 shows an alternative connection for the resistor.
When I first read the original post, I read it be connected like image 1 & in that case Butler would be correct.
Upon further reading I understood the resistor to be connected directly to the decoder & if that is the way SRman understood it, then SRman is correct.
Thats my opinion, for what it's worth.
John
Edit the images were originally posted by Marcus-Jay
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15 hours ago, WCML100 said:
Hi Accurascale team! Are you still sending out the orders for yellow peril?! 😃
Ordered mine in Dec 2019 & an hour ago I got the email that it's on its way.
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My Caroline has not been sent yet, should I start to panic? Edit, no need to panic, their on their way as of 6 sept,
I also have 4 nukes on order that haven't been sent.
I asked if these orders could be combined & both orders have a note "Combine with -07-- if possible".
I have sent emails to Revolution, which have been unanswered.
John
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On 25/08/2023 at 20:45, jcredfer said:
Firstly the couplings are very hard to put on and break easily it seems ,so I am in need of replacements ,any ideas ??
I have converted some Hornby wagons to Accurascale magnetic chain couplings.
I cut the chain on the magnetic coupling which left the magnet, a split link & 3 full links.
I tried to place the last link over the existing hook but found this too fiddley.
I replaced the Hornby hook with one bent from Nickle silver wire. (see Photos).
Remove 2 screws to separate the body from the chassis which will require a bit of force as they are clipped together fairly tightly.
Bend the new hook, the exact length is not critical, but should be long enough to reach to where there is enough plastic for a hole. (You may notice that the hooks in the photo are different lengths. the one on the left could have been a bit longer & the one on the right a bit shorter.)
Test fit the new hook, mark & drill a hole for the bent end of the hook.
Feed the last loop of the coupling over the wire hook then feed the wire through the buffer beam & pust the bend into the hole, a little super glue to hold the wire in place until the body & chassis are rejoined.
There are flanges on the body underside that may need trimming to clear the wire.
Hope this helps.
John
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My 2cents worth
If the voltage across the capacitor exceeds its rated voltage, then you risk destroying the capacitor.
With three 3V capacitors in series a Zener less than 9V less should be used, the 8.2V zener would be ideal
In option 2 if you left the 15V Zener in the circuit then the voltage across each capacitor would have been 15V/3capicators = 5v per capacitor which is way outside their specification
A fourth option would be to increase the value of the resistor, you could try 200 ohms.
The downside to this option it the charge time would be increased
Th startup current would reduce from 0.15A to 0.075A &
power from 2.25W to 1.125W
When the pack is fully charged the power used by the resistor will halve to 0.245W
John
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19 hours ago, Hilux5972 said:
Surely Hornby missed a perfect opportunity to make this even more accurate by using the dummy buckeye location for where the actual coupling goes? It’s not like it has to couple up to other stock that’s not APT stock. And if they made the slot wider you wouldn’t notice it either.
Do you mean something like this
This power car has been repowered using Heljan bogies & chassis made from brass bars.
Like the retooled APT the chassis is not connected to the body and the body tilts around the chassis.
John
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You could use relays controlled by points
The drawing shows how this could be done
John
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Does this version have a switch on the underside of the controller, if so, is it on?
From what I can see on the photos the AC comes in goes through a Fuse (LP 60 )(the largish yellow disc near the knob.) to the 4 diodes (full wave rectifier) to 2 large capacitors that smooth the DC from the rectifier
The voltage at the AC input socket should be about 16V AC Depending on the power supply
If the voltage across the Fuse(LP60)Measured between points A & B is greater than 0V then the fuse has probably failed
The voltage across the rectifier should be 16V AC on the input side & 16-20V DC on the DC side
The voltage across the large blue capacitors should be the same as the output side of the rectifier
The solder joints on the diodes don’t look perfect
If the AC voltage is good but the DC voltage is a lot lower than 16-20V then the diodes may be faulty or they may need resoldering
The rest of the circuit is above my pay grade.
John
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Tried to run a 16-coach train (with original magnetic couplings) & it continually decoupled between coaches 2 & 3 after a couple hundred millimetres.
Tried Kadee & Hornby/Roco couplings, they worked but I wasn’t happy with either
Was going to borrow Fleischmann Profi from other wagons when I found a half empty bulk pack of Profi’s that I had forgotten about.
With those & some I borrowed from other wagons I had enough to do the first 14 coaches
After loosing a couple of troublesome bogies, I finally had a 16-coach train that would do laps without uncoupling
Apart from the magnetic couplings that didn’t work for me I am otherwise happy with the train
The loop of track has a 2.3% grade which the class 92 handled easily.
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On 08/07/2022 at 17:59, McC said:
All of the accurascale mk5 sets include magnetic scale couplers between all vehicles plus spare for your loco. Hope that helps.
Found this on page 38
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2 minutes ago, Legend said:
So does this mean you can run a sound loco , fitted with the HM7000 on conventional DC with the controller turned full up and control it via the app . This would explain why it replaces the HM6000 for DC control
IF, when you say "fitted with the HM7000" do you mean fitted with the decoder then my understanding is YES
My understanding is that the decoder needs power & that power can be DC, DCC or an onboard battery, (see my previous post)
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I wonder if Hornby & Soundtray Blunami had some sort of collaboration
Both systems seem very similar
One thing Blunami talks about is dead track,I.E. battery powerThe next bit is pure speculation & to be done at your risk
If you were to connect a battery to the stay alive socket I would think the loco would run until the battery went flat
Another possibility would be to have a rechargeable battery with a charging circuit connected to the pickups &the battery feeding the decoder
I also think that if you ran this loco on a DC layout you could run a DC loco controlled by a normal DC controller at the same timeMaybe someone clever than me could design a Power Bank that uses a battery instead of super capacitor’s & give the loco a run time of up to an hour with no recharge & could recharge from the track when there was voltage on the track.
John
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92010 Left Accurascale 6 hrs ago on its long trip to Oz
Might see it this year
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Nearly walked over this.
I named it monty
This is near a carpark that leads to the Wynnum Mangrove boardwalk
Next to the boardwalk, Is that Nessie on a holiday to Brisbane?
John
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Here is a Britannia that i have had since new in the 60,s
If you look closely you can see the open axle boxes
It has the motor (X04) in the boiler
John
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Just got an email from RevOlutiOn
Tracking shows mine at Langley GB & is cleared and awaiting international departure
Might get to Oz by Christmas but not very likely.
John
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I have added Labels & other minor changes to help identify the parts
The LED looked to be connected the wrong way around so I altered it (I don’t see how it could work as shown in your drawing)
All Voltage measurements will be from the (-) connection
1---- Measure the volts at point A, It should be up to 16VDC, if much lower then AndyID could be correct
With a train running the Voltage at A should be constant, If there is a large voltage drop then D1 – D4 or CB1 could be faulty
If you suspect CB1 then bridge it out & recheck
2---- Measure the volts at point B & move the Pot (VR1)from 0 to full, It should vary from full voltage measured at A to 0V
If the voltage changes evenly with the movement of VR1 then VR1 is probably OK
3---- Disconnect R1 from T1 at the red x, move VR1, measure at C, if you get similar voltages as at point B then R1 should be ok
Reconnect R1 to T1
That leaves 3 components ,T1 T2 & D5
I’d start by replacing D5 (cheapest component) then T1 & finally T2
John
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I expect they will be sent out in alphabetical order first by country using the standard alphabet
Then by name using my new & improved alphabet
I.E. STUVWXYZABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQR
John S
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Mark 2b, By Accurascale and IRM!
in Accurascale / Irish Railway Models
Posted · Edited by John ks
One of the features is
“Easy conversion to Kadee-compatiable knuckle couplers”
I thought this meant using the NEM pocket
At ont point in time I noticed the area between the kinematic pocket & the under frame had a flat area with a small hole. This area looked to be the correct size to fit a Kadee 242, #5 with ears cut off or 262 narrow coupling boxes
Mounting Kadees in this area puts them at OO scale height which is higher than Kadee recommends for HO scale
To fit the kadee the middle part of the buffer beam needed to be removed
I tapped the existing hole to 2mm trimmed the back off a 262 coupler box, fitted a long scale head whisker (#158) coupling
If you remove the kinematic mechanism you wont have to trim the rear of the coupling box. Leaving the kinematic mechanism makes it easy to change back your favourite NEM coupling.
Some pictures of the coaches coupled to each other and a Hornby Mk1 and an APT
They don't couple as close as kinematic couplings but are close enough & go around my tightest curves without buffer lock