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  1. Might this be of help? Having had cause to trace the plug/socket wiring myself, I roughly sketched out the following in a notebook ... Hope it is reasonably self-explanatory.
  2. And so, do we now await with baited breath for the release of an unrebuilt First Series (35001-10) model in the most attractive guise (early 50’s ish) of modified cab, full size smoke deflectors whilst retaining the inward curve of the casing ahead of the cylinders. Whilst Hornby are going strong on their MN “roll”, might we have some rebuilt tenders available separately to expand the variety. Four tenders, rebuilt (some say “cut down”) ran with unmodified locos and a fifth, No 3343 was rebuilt as a coal/self-weighing tender in 1952 in which state it ran until the end of 1961. This
  3. For those of us who have grown apace with DCC over the years, the term “DCC Ready” is straightforward in its meaning. We have grown accustomed to the vagaries of the installation process and fully appreciate that the provision of a DCC socket is by no means an indication of a relatively simplistic operation. Indeed, with some smaller tank locomotives that are equipped with an 8 pin socket, it can be far easier to dispense with same and solder the decoder direct. Some instructions quote the removal of metal weights to give additional space; not an ideal solution for a lightweight model.
  4. Very informative review which is much appreciated. From a very personal perspective, and many will disagree, but what I can discern from photographs of the model and the “carpet crawler’s” video presentation, the finish of “EAC” will require more than a fair bit of weathering if it is to give a realistic representation of an MN in this livery. (There’s probably now only few who can remember ever seeing the real locos in blue - myself being one, but at 4 years of age I was just in awe of the machine; no, I don’t remember the actual loco!) We have to refer to colour photographs for
  5. I tend to use Bachmann figures, some non-railway, repainted in overalls and some have had “surgery” to reposition arms to avoid generic repetition - is there such a thing? It sounded good, anyway. It does pay to remember that steam loco drivers were rarely static or seated for long periods, especially on a rough ‘un where their ‘arris was subjected to all amount of jarring and banging. Likewise, firemen are generally portrayed wielding a shovel when in fact their footplate tasks were many and varied besides shovelling. This allows us licence to pose similar figures in many varying posture
  6. Who remembers the “Esso Blea Dueler” TV commercial; does he still deliver?
  7. “Twelve, over the Netley road, she’ll walk it!”
  8. Return it Mike. If it was just the lubricator drive rod, it’d be fixable as it is a static component. However, with the motor and alignment issues as well, this model just doesn’t “cut it”. My 70013, with a Zimo MX600R decoder is a very sweet runner at all speeds. (I chose the Zimo as I had heard adverse comments regarding the slow running of Hornby’s latest Britannia releases). You’re not alone with these quality issues on new locomotives; yI’ve had valve motion come apart, speedo drives come adrift, cab doors fall off, even a safety valve becoming unglued. It’s very, v
  9. Great words of wisdom; the primary tool, albeit an instrument, in anyone’s modelling workshop arsenal for proving and tracing. Personally, I would not recommend taking a screwdriver to a motive power unit unit, even just to fit a decoder without having access to a meter. Locomotive circuitry is by and large, relatively straightforward; it is the space in which it resides which gives most grief - enter the indispensable multimeter. As The Johnster relates, a visual check cannot reveal a “dry” joint, or one where the continuity is breaking down. If it’s any help, my second “C”,
  10. Got a spare ten minutes? Grab a quick Lockdown cuppa, fire up YouTube and watch “Kings Cross Station Camden Town 1950’s” video. Worth watching; there’s no soundtrack other than dubbed music, but that does not at all detract from the prevailing atmosphere. Go on. Put the kettle on.
  11. Same as RT above; Bachmann crew on the “Terrier”. Some non-railway staff Bachmann figures can be repainted and posed to represent footplate grades as shown on the “P”.
  12. I am just about brave enough to post an attempt a couple of years back of DIY point rodding together with a scratch built signal box. It must be stressed, the rodding is just a representation and very simply fabricated from nickel silver wire. It does not purport to be anything near as realistic as industry produced kits but in its defence it fills a “reality gap” and some might find it reasonably acceptable at what is generally considered a normal veiwing distance. The ‘box is from Plasticard, loosely based from various photographs. Note: the unguarded conductor rail awaits protecti
  13. With regards to the lubrication of gears/worm etc, what is nowadays considered better oil or grease? I’ve always used Fleischmann oil (FM6599) on bearings and motion but it appears a little too “thin” for the drive train. Any recommendations, Thanks
  14. Peter Townend, in his book “East Coast Pacifics at Work” in the chapter “Green Arrows to Pacifics”, page 109 refers to V2 engines working lengthy wartime trains out of the “Cross”.
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