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Posts posted by Right Away
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Hi Spamcan61, my usual rosin-cored lead-free solder is fine for occasional electrical work. Seeking to do more prolonged work, I have been advised to use a solder that is free of both. Online searches show that such solder is available but it is relatively expensive.
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Could any member recommend a “Lead Free-Rosin Free” solder which would be suitable for brass modelling tasks, etchings and small kits etc. Similarly, a Rosin-Free flux. The reason for the “safer” specs is because of a respiratory condition.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Does this help…..?
Photo dated August ‘61.
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Both.
I lay new track and give it an all over “base” colour, followed by ballasting, finally selectively spraying (with airbrush) to represent the build up of differing levels of grime, brake dust etc where appropriate. I gently clean rail heads between each process to avoid a thick build up of paint and adhesive at the end.
Reference to good quality colour photographs can be helpful in achieving your final result but beware of any colour cast which can give an inappropriate tint.
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I had some initial reservation in 2022 about buying the Hornby R3564 as their “latest” Stanier 8F, a class of engine I had not owned before. As previously mentioned, had it not been for a very reasonable asking price and the news of a forthcoming, new (er expensive!) Black Five and fearing which might follow regarding a possible overdue, newly tooled and equally pricey 8F, I would have forgone the purchase.
However prototypical of this particular engine, I feel a Fowler tender gives a disproportionate appearance of size to the ensemble from whichever viewpoint it is seen. I really required a Stanier tender which I was unable to source at the time, pending a change of locomotive identity. I undertook to try and improve the Fowler version by trimming at a slight angle the top edges of the tender sides and rear behind the coal bunker to give an illusion of reduced thickness, where it is particularly prominent.
Another visual enhancement was the fitting of a shortened drawbar made from brass strip, bringing the tender much closer to the engine. I followed the angles of the original “cranked” drawbar when forming the new, shorter brass version and then drilled the pivot holes.
The grinding away of some of the leading truck casting has been mentioned previously.
Given weathering and a few other tweaks, the model gives a reasonably acceptable appearance of a “foreigner” when working in on a freight from the LMR on my BR (SR) railway.
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Perhaps not to everyone’s taste, for convenience I compiled folders entitled “Bachmann Sheets”, “Dapol Sheets”, “EFE Sheets” and “Hornby Sheets” containing the Service Sheets for my items which I can access on iPad and iPhone, the latter always being at hand. Hornby’s can be a bit “hit and miss”, as not every release seems to have a corresponding sheet, some seemingly being unavailable.
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19 hours ago, ColinB said:
I was trying to find the latest Service Sheet for the 8F, that references R3564. The only one I can find is 261d on both the New Modellers and Hornby sites. Service sheet 261d refences the older models before they added the decoder to the tender. Any idea if Hornby posted a later one?
Please see close up of R3564, purchased Spring 2022. (If I can dig the box out of the attic later, I’ll check the supplied sheet.)
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On 15/02/2024 at 13:14, adb968008 said:
… and the non nem compliant lump of a pony truck are what lets it down most imo.
Very strongly agree.
I attacked mine with a Dremel in an attempt to disguise it.
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My “H” 0-4-4T (one of the first releases) was quite reluctant to move at times when first received, requiring the odd nudge into motion. I discovered by loosening slightly, the four motor top housing screws the problem went away.
I cut out and placed a thin “gasket” of paper around under the face of the motor top housing which has the effect of raising it very minutely. Clearly, as originally fitted, the top housing was fouling but this simple mod has proved most successful.
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On 09/02/2024 at 11:31, trevor7598 said:
Both Hornby and Bachmann have yet to produce a crimson and cream MK 1 3set ( BSK/CK/BSK )
for the Southern Region, complete with set no. on the brake ends.
…..
Like the Bachmann coaches shown departing in the background here ….
Hands up, they’re renumbered Eastern Region stock; set number was chosen as it was one of the last to be repainted into green.- 3
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Thank you al for your replies.
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On 08/02/2024 at 12:50, Fair Oak Junction said:So, Hornby are charging £250 for a 20 year loco but the new tooled Black 5s are £230?
Am I missing something here? 🤔
Relieved that I decided to grab a “5” and an “8” for just over £100 each new, two years ago when a local shop was having a “clear out”.
Once home and tested, various mods were undertaken to improve their appearances (I renumbered the “5”) - please see photos.
Overall, relatively pleased with, what nowadays, might be considered two “cheap” acquisitions.
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On 14/02/2024 at 05:02, DCB said:
I think something similar happened on the Gloucester Bristol Line at Haresfield (?)as described in Red for Danger,
Charfield?
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Whilst trawling through some photos which I took in the early ‘80s, I was comparing Phase One and Phase Two 4CIG EMUs and noticed the latter’s motor brake coach was devoid of a guard’s periscope.
My questions are essentially:
1. Were Phase Two 4 CIGs not built with periscopes?
2. When was the decision taken to relieve Guards of the responsibility of providing “another pair of eyes” in preference to revenue collection duties?
In the past, where “incidents” have arisen, guards had been admonished/criticised by Inspectorate where it had been established they failed to assist a driver in signal sighting.
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6 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:
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Now this is something that also concerns me. I started with Lenz decoders, having tested all that was then readily available in the UK, and they were the stand out at that time. I continue to use Lenz decoders in everything where they deliver the required performance, which is the majority of current RTR OO mechanisms. These are a couple of quid cheaper than Zimo, and I will have that saving, I see DCC as a utility, no need to spend more than absolutely necessary. The situation is likely to be different for decoders that fit in N locos, that you need to explore for yourself.
Exactly the same here (Note: I don’t require sound). My Lenz decoders have proven most reliable, but the finesse with which the slow running characteristics obtained from Zimo decoders now make their “budget” version my weapon of choice - when I can get them!
Zimo decoders are particularly useful where mechanisms and/or gearing ratios are not of the first order.Example 1:
Hornby “Castle” 4-6-0 (R3619) fitted with a Lenz Standard V2 decoder - cannot be configured to creep away from standstill, always going from around a scale 0 - 3mph. Replace with Zimo MX600R and the wheels easing gently into motion.
Example 2:
Dapol D1 4-4-0 (4S-028-004) fitted with Lenz Next18 decoder - same as above. Hard wired with Zimo MX600R and she starts away beautifully.
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An Iwata CS Eclipse has served me very well over the years. Easy to clean, lovely to use, but take care when cleaning as parts ain’t cheap if they decide to go walkabouts!
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Here’s a couple of photos of “pre CAP” HAPs which I took at Fishersgate and Portslade in 1981
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19 hours ago, brushman47544 said:
2-HAPs worked the Arundel - Littlehampton - Bognor shuttles, though I can’t off hand recall when they were withdrawn.
Off topic, sorry, but mention of the Littlehampton “shuttles”; a photo of my father changing ends at Ford in 1968.
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With regards to using a magnifier, I am unable to offer advice, but the following information might be useful in the interim as your eye adjusts after the surgery.
I well remember the initial difficulty after surgery when a new intra- ocular lens was implanted for “normal” distance. My existing glasses were varifocal. (astigmatism correction was not available on NHS prescription intra-ocular lenses at that time.) I even resorted to removing the spectacle lens but it did get some odd looks! After the requisite six seeks, an eye test resulted in a new set of spectacle lenses, one for the “new” eye and one for that which had not been operated on. After that things were fine. Four months later the other eye had its cataract removed and so I underwent the same palaver. I still wear varifocal glasses for closer viewing as both eyes are effectively now “long sighted” and also for astigmatism correction.
PS When my wife required cataract surgery 2 years ago, both eyes were operated on, on the same day so she never had the initial issue of mismatched spectacle lenses.
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11 hours ago, doilum said:
Was your nice shiny coal anthracite? Being brought up in the heart of Area 8 I was surprised when I first encountered this “ foreign “ coal. The families of miners could identify which seam a particular lump had come from by the colour and dust. When I needed real coal for a working model I went for the anthracite as it is relatively clean to handle. The grey is spot on.
I’ve no idea of the source or if it was anthracite, being already supplied in relatively small (1cm) pieces when I received it. I did find that on breaking it into smaller sizes, the resultant “new” faces were very shiny.
As a child, coal was taken for granted, it could be seen in many locations; domestic coal bunkers, fireplaces, spilled on roads, when the “coalie” took a corner too fast! And of course in railway premises, yards, locomotives, wagons. But trying to remember what it actually looked like is another thing altogether.
Next to colour photos, scrutiny of the imported stuff on the next visit to a Heritage railway could be useful - a souvenir or three!
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Great photo showing exactly what I was trying to achieve, and oh, a Fairburn to boot! Thanks Chris.
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Having decided a few years ago, that all my steam locomotives should carry “real” coal in their tenders/bunkers, I duly obtained some, crushed it for use and was quite pleased with the result.
Nevertheless, I had determined that something was either wrong or indeed missing with the effect.
Fast forward to a couple of days ago and whilst perusing a book and glimpsing some photos taken of a steam MPD from a high viewpoint (from where many models are viewed), It finally struck home - my coal was “too” black and shiny
I’m no expert on coal dug from the various mines throughout the country, be it from the Northern coalfields to those in South Wales, Somerset or Kent but one thing appears the same in colour photos of steam locomotives - it is generally of a varying matt grey colour. This could be due to the way light is reflected back at the viewer or from exposure to the elements.
I experimented with mixing Lifecolor’s “
WornDirty Black” with “Roof Dirt” acrylic paint and gently dabbed it in drybrush fashion over the coal. It was important not to soak the coal as this would wash out the PVA with which it is fixed and it does destroy the effect.Please see attached photo below of two engines with the same coal, the one on the left having been treated as above, the other unpainted.
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New documentary series, showing pilot episode of the Shoreham-by-Sea to Horsham line.
See link below and the following link to YouTube.
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12 hours ago, Right Away said:
Ten years ago, I found myself in a similar albeit, reverse situation, deciding to part with a considerable collection of continental N gauge items as I was resurrecting 00. This was as a result of ageing eyesight and dexterity making it increasingly difficult to appreciate working in the smaller scale. There was no initial urgency to “get rid”; just that each selling would go towards the British outline 00 railway which was being developed.
I decided to check Ebay, noting the price and condition of items similar to those I wished to sell, as guidance.
Around five items of rolling stock were put up for auction just to “test the water” and all were sold at a very respectable price. Eventually, by selling in batches, the whole was sold over a few months.
Advice for selling:
1. Ensure title of each item is concise and includes manufacturer’s item code - this will assist potential buyers.
2. Photograph each item from all angles (4 clear photos per item is usually enough), ensuring any damage or blemish is visible to the viewer.
3. Also photograph item standing on its box where possible - box condition can sometimes clinch a deal and protects item in transit.
NOTE: I used an SLR on a tripod, using small aperture to maximise depth of field, A black card was used as a backdrop.
4. Ensure the title of the sale includes the manufacture’s item code - this will assist potential buyers.
5. Describe each item as accurately as possible, denoting condition, any detailing or weathering. (I initially feared that weathered items migh be rejected, but was surprised when buyers asked if more were available!).
6. Accept payment by PayPal only.
7. When selling in batches, ensure the bidding “finish time” of each item is separated by 5 minutes or more in order that potential buyers may bid and stand the chance of getting more than one item.
Good luck.
*** NOTE***
For clarity, when I speak of selling in batches, a “batch” would denote a number of items with EACH ITEM OF A BATCH BEING OFFERED INDIVIDUALLY, BUT POSTED ON THE DAY. I never meant to suggest selling a batch of items as one transaction or “job lot” as it were.
Apologies.
Soldering Extractor - Quiet!
in Modelling Questions, Help and Tips
Posted
Could any member recommend a free standing solder fume fan/extractor which is reasonably quiet in operation and inexpensive. People have commented on unfavourable noise levels on some and that is something I’m looking to avoid.