Right Away

Further to this topic, does any member know if there was an actual threshold of dimensions specified by BR (LMR), above which, any locomotive would be barred from operating under the energised 25kV catenary south of Crewe? Would it have been a simple “the tallest height of any part of a locomotive from rail head must not exceed a certain amount” or a rather more specific directive?. Note: A Stanier 5MT with standard LMS chimney having a maximum height of 12’ 8” was permitted, whilst an 8F with 12’ 10” height, was barred. In addition, what directive pertained to the operation of “foreign” locomotives “under the wires” and were any such directives ever transgressed?

“Three EFE assembly staff on vacation in UK succumb to the wrath of modeller dressed as railway employee.” Seriously though, thanks for your detailed workaround. Hopefully we’ll all get there in the end.

It often follows that the ratio of satisfied customers to those of whom are having issues with a product/service, the former are sometimes less likely to relate (not bother) on their positive experiences, whereas, the latter will more readily and understandably expostulate on any grievance. Once the current (no pun) orders for the EFE “Booster” have all been received, it would be interesting to note exactly the scale of the problem of poor wheel alignment which is bringing so much furore. One could hope that it is a “one-off” issue, affecting a minority of examples but the seeds of doubt have been sown. I have to say, I am extremely satisfied with my electric loco; looks good, runs sweetly and stays on the road, but I would be certain to resist the purchase of a further release until this problem is addressed.

I have fitted my electric loco with a Zimo MX638D which was “borrowed” from a steam locomotive, that latter subsequently being hard wired with a MX600R. Like many other Zimo “budget” non-sound decoders, the MX638D no longer appears available, their only “economical”offering being the MX600R (8 wires) a really smooth chip, so long as you don’t require sound. Wish I’d stocked up on the 638 and 617 types whilst they were available, it would appear that the “sound” market could be taking precedence regarding decoders.

Thank you very much indeed, this reply is most welcome. At present I have just two wipers which do not reach the wheels on “full side deflection” and does not affect running, but your very useful descriptive information will be invaluable when it finally becomes necessary to adjust more pick ups.

Could you describe the process for removing just the wheels - this is for wiper adjustment only. Many thanks.

Thank you Graham.

Apparently the model’s route disc/lamps are designed to be a “push fit” to enable interchangeability. Not one of those, factory installed on either end of my version (#20002) is refusing to budge; what on earth was used to push them in? It’s as if they’ve had a dab of adhesive.. The circular profile allows no purchase at all with tweezers etc. Even a delicate touch with the tip of a scalpel has proved unsuccessful. Gripping with point nosed pliers would seem rather risky on such delicate items. Looking from inside and gently pushing outwards with the tip of a cocktail stick has no effect. The cab fronts are very well modelled and to effect even slight damage by the slip of a tool just for the sake of changing a route indication is not to be welcomed. Has any other owner had a similar issue and perhaps found a way of getting these blighters out? In all other respects, the model runs perfectly and judging by some members’ less than ideal experiences, for that I am thankful. For this reason alone and the fact that it would appear, at present, difficult to effect a replacement #20002 I would be reluctant to return to retailer. Bottom line solution: paint over existing white discs where not required - NOT IDEAL!

From what I remember of the class, up close, in the late 50’s/early 60’s, there was a continuous drone whilst stationary from within (booster equipment). On pulling away, this was accompanied by a low groan rising slowly in pitch (traction motors) much the same as those of a PUL/PAN motor coach. On one occasion at Haywards Heath, an UP “boat” announced its approach by its EE’s lovely chime whistle which seemed to me in complete contrast to the thumping it gave pointwork! As far as “electric sounds” went, the businesslike humming was quickly lost to the sound of coach wheels as the train passed through the platforms. (Note: Somewhere in the house, is a B&W photo of this event which I took on cheapo Gratispool film.)

The news of Hatton’s closure of business is very sad and a possible “wake-up call”, not just to other retailers but to us customers alike. Like many, I have enjoyed peerless service from Hattons over the years, indeed as I have from all the model retailers I have done business with. That’s it, just to say, “THANK YOU, HATTONS”

Easy; it has to be 20003.

This has such tremendous depth and perspective, combined with a sense of bustling activity. Wonderful!

I am not familiar with ESU. However, regarding the initial starting and having just Lenz and Zimo (non-sound) decoders, regardless of how much tweaking, there are certain Lenz fitted locomotives that simply cannot be made to creep away from rest, but swapping to a Zimo chip instantly transforms the performance in this respect.

Anyone have any tips when opening one up yet for decoder fitting? There’s always much useful advice from our skilled members when confronted with an entirely new model, rather than relying on instruction sheets alone. In some cases, instructions containing caveats like e.g. “gently” and “carefully”, tend to instil a sense of trepidation as one awaits the sound of cracking plastic!

I start off with filler. Once hardened, this is followed with a sprinkling in random areas of fine ballast mixed with crushed coal for texture, fixed with diluted PVA and concentrated in some places to represent the results of fire/smokebox cleaning where there’s no ash pit. When this has set, acrylic paints, varying from a very light grey to a dark soot are stippled over the lot. Please see pic

It very often occurs that when an existing model is re-released with a new identity (and usually with a correspondingly higher price), earlier releases that remain are available at their original cost or in some cases with an attractive discount. This can be a very tempting proposition for those willing to renumber; in the case of the Bulleid/Raworth electric locos, that would take very little work.

Hi John. The book is Bradford Barton publication entitled “Southern Steam Locomotive Survey - Bullied Light Pacifics, page 59. Your father’s caption denotes that the engine, waiting at Exeter Central was working the 1.10 p.m. stopper to Salisbury on 9th September 1963. (There is some reference to the power classification). Happy New Year

Double pendantic …. hopefully not, but the power classification carried by the “Light” Pacifics in later BR livery was 7P 5FA; the “A” denoting that the braking force for unfitted freight was inferior to that which would be considered “normal” for a 5F rated engine. See attached photo scans, the original photo of 34070 was taken by your father!

Atmospheric? You can almost taste the exhaust fumes mingling with all that fug!

According to reference details, the main visual differences between the two classes, pertinent to modellers would be: Class D1 - Coupling rods: plain section, Coupled wheel dia: 6’ 8”, Coupled wheelbase: 9’ 0”, Bogie wheel dia: 3’ 7”. Class E1 - Coupling rods: “fluted”, Coupled wheel dia: 6’ 6”, Coupled wheelbase: 9’ 6”, Bogie wheel dia: 3’ 6”. Class D1 had boilers fitted with side feed from their date of rebuilding (new).

Not troubled with derailments as a rule as the main track (00) was laid several years ago on 3mm cork on 9mm plywood, but those that have occurred have been the following: Leading bogie wheel of certain steam locomotives have risen over rail head at a particular location where others (of the same class) are unaffected. This has been corrected by: wheel back to back adjustment / ensuring front cosmetic coupling does not foul bogie frame / ensure tender drawbar does not bind at the pivot which tends to keep the ensemble “in line” preventing the bogie from following the track / adjustment of vertical tension of bogie - where possible. It’s all a bit trial and error. Some coach “close coupling” mechanisms have been found to bind and impede the swing of bogie pivot - check for flashing etc.

The original query specifically relates to the feasibility of hard-wiring a non-Next18 decoder, with particular emphasis on accessibility. The engines to which I have had recourse in the past to hard wire have been equipped with either Lenz 10231-02 or Zimo MX600R decoders, (with, of course, the 8 pin plugs removed). It would be to similar measures that I would look, should I have the misfortune to effect a repair on a Dapol Next 18 equipped loco. Thank you for mentioning your experiences as it does go some way to vindicate my initial scepticism.

In the original posting it will be remembered that information was sought regarding access to the innards of the particular Dapol engines as little has been available elsewhere. Never a pessimist forever looking for problems, but being capable of effecting repairs SHOULD they arise, it is assistance of the kind that Harlequin (above) has provided that is very much appreciated. Of course, it is hoped that this information will never be required on a forthcoming purchase of a Dapol steam locomotive - but one can never be certain.

I can only offer a suggestion for 4mm Springside lamps. If the lamp irons are thin enough, I drill a small (approx 0.5 - 0.75mm) hole in base of lamp to a depth of 2mm, being especially careful not to dislodge lamp lens. With a cocktail stick, add a tiny dab of Tacky Wax over hole and place on lamp iron. If lamp iron is to large (older models) just use the Tacky Wax on the base and the side (GWR) or back (others) of lamp and place in position.

Wishing all our members and their families a very Happy Christmas, not forgetting of course the Moderators, toiling behind the scenes and generally “unseen”, without whom we would be the worse off, and I wouldn’t be writing this, to say the very least. Thanks for all members’ help and suggestions through the year - HAVE A REALLY GREAT TIME!