Right Away

“If the coal’s same as yest’dy, I shan’t need me Woodbines!”

I can endorse Hroth’s suggestion, having had to resort to this on some small sets of Christmas LEDs which purported to be “Warm White” but proved to be anything but! I would suggest trying a range of colours on a spare LED before committing to the model; I settled on a skin tone which wasn’t too bad. If unhappy, wipe clean the LED with thinners and start again.

I’m curious as to how feasible it would be to hard wire a non-Next18 decoder in a Dapol 00 steam locomotive. I have hard wired many engines over the years but have not as yet had any dealings with Dapol’s smokebox located, slide in Next18 system. The main concern would seem to be that of gaining access to enough of the circuit board wiring to effect soldering; online user guides do not mention body removal. Why, some will ask, would anyone wish to circumvent a neat, foolproof decoder system? I have a certain mistrust where inaccessible components simply “click” together (bad/loose contacts), regardless of how convenient they may initially appear. For this reason, it can be extremely helpful to have a “work around” at hand in the event of any problems before acquiring one of these models.

If manufacturers feel there is a need for working headlamps on model steam locomotives they might well consider those prototypes that were equipped with electric lighting. Many designs by Peppercorn, Thompson, Bullied and of particular relevance to this thread, certain class Fives by Ivatt were so equipped, although it was mainly only the Southern types that retained the electric lighting until withdrawal - if it still worked! Miniature optical fibres could be utilised to convey light from a central source of 4 (6 on SR engines) micro LEDs switchable by function, to individual fixed lamp heads. It is accepted that this type of feature would carry the burden of additional cost on what have become quite expensive purchases, especially the 20 year old Bulleids and from a personal viewpoint a gimmick I could happily forgo.

The issue of working headlamps on these new “Fives” has raised many interesting and diverse comments from across the membership. However, at the risk of being “shot down in flames” by those in favour, it could be that locomotives so adorned could well “stick out like sore thumbs” amongst those with scale size lamps or indeed those without. What was behind the inception of Hornby deciding on the necessity of this feature? Better to have scale size, non-working lamps that can provide a finishing touch to what is essentially the “face” of an engine; and they don’t have to work to be effective. Hornby are to be congratulated on producing the other variations of the classic Stanier class 5 4-6-0 which will doubtless be welcomed by many with open arms. I fear these latest variants will be their only real selling point given their price. Apologies Hornby, but you have produced many models with incredibly fine detail, but to afflict this latest incarnation with such a toy-like and unnecessary feature might not be to the likes of many.

…. and finally having its identity changed by …. ME!

Hornby did more than dip their toes in the “boring” 0-6-0 goods market a few years back with their excellent renditions of the J15 and 700 classes, not to mention the 1940s Bulleid Q1. As Covkid remarks, these types and their ilk may not be seen by potential hobbyists, let alone collectors, as the most engaging of locomotives, but the requirements of many modellers will encompass the necessity of a Victorian goods engine (or two) on their model railways. Being Southern based, I was more than pleased with the release of the Drummond 700 class by Hornby and imagined at the time, its possible lesser appeal would mean a low production run and immediately purchased one of the early releases - just in case! Not certain of Hornby’s expectations of sales, but not a year later these models were almost static on the shelves. The more sceptical of us may have reasoned that retailers and manufacturer alike were more than pleased when available stocks did eventually begin to diminish.

Sal Ammoniac is excellent for restoring oxidised and dirty soldering iron bits. Do take note of instructions; it’s not the most pleasant of products but used with care and patience, can bring the bits up like new. Note: When your bits have been clean and tinned, always ensure you tin them after use, before switching off to ensure they’re ready for immediate use next time.

I’d pondered the question as to why the SR and later BR(SR) continued to use locomotive hauled stock and not multiple units for the Victoria - Newhaven boat services for so long after the Harbour (boat) platform was electrified in 1947. Some reasons which come to mind are:- 1. Luggage space. Additional van(s) could strengthen capacity when required. (we are talking pre EP stock/MLVs - luggage space in EMU guards’ brakes only). 2. Insufficient availability of EMU express coaching stock (assuming PUL, PAN, COR, BUF units). 3. Efficient diagrams for EMU stock could have proved difficult to incorporate boat train timings. 4. Electric locomotives were more than capable on the boat trains. 5. Loco hauled stock more readily available with flexibility of consist. It would be very interesting to hear other’s thoughts on this.

No colour, but for reference, here’s 90766 just out of works at Brighton but without tender emblem. Behind her, the “Glasshouse” has SOUTHERN on its tender. This would tend to date the photo as around summer 1949.

Thanks Robert

Thanks Graham

Apologies if these questions on the forthcoming electric loco have been raised elsewhere. 1. Will the route code lights be “selectable” via function on DCC? 2. Can the route code discs show open/closed displays?

Thanks Phil. Yes, I’ve used the “twist and pull” copper wire method for several projects; roadsign poles, bus stops, railings, drain pipes and substation busbars to name a few.

Depending on scale, wooden coffee stirrers for the planks. Easily cut and sanded to size. For the poles you might try clamping one end of a length (eg 60mm/2ft) of copper wire stripped from 2.5mm T&E cable and grip the other end with pliers; by maintaining tension (pulling) and twisting the wire several times will impart rigidity into the copper. The required “stiffness” can be a little trial and error, but the end result is a quite rigid but easily manageable material which can be soldered.

Thanks for such an informative reply, SM46. Really grateful.

Apologies for asking two questions in one post but as they are related to the same topic, I hoped they might be answered together by a member who may have first hand knowledge. 1) Rotary Converters: When were the last rotary converters of the Cathedral” substations of the SR taken out of service. 2) TP (track paralleling/sectionalising) Huts: It’s understood their function is to maximise the available cross sectional area of all conductor rails between substations on a section of route. Any information of how the respective CB’s would operate and what circumstances in which they might be manually overridden by an electrical Control Centre and the effect on traction supply when this occurred. Thanks in anticipation.

If you intend to keep the loco DCC equipped there is no problem either way as direction can be changed in CV29.

Much debate and some quite useful information here over the old “which is better”. Not all modellers are blessed with the visual acuity allowing them to appreciate the finer details of today’s 2mm offerings, whilst many do not posses sufficient space in which to build larger scales of their chosen theme and allow it to evolve. On a personal note, it was entirely as a result of the “ageing thing” and what goes with it, that prompted my decision to change from 2mm to 4mm some 10 years ago. The need for compromise of operation and reduced train lengths, yet keeping as much to prototypical standards as possible were accepted and have resulted in a model which I can enjoy to work on in advancing years.

A seemingly somewhat minor element in the photo, the cast iron drain (manhole) cover manages to lead the eye into the scene; great work!

Wonderful sense of depth and use of “aerial perspective” together with the back scene.

My personal experience has shown that wood sourced from a timber merchant is generally of much better quality with regards to warping, splitting than that from the DIY chains. That is not saying timber from the latter is overly poor, just that one has to be rather more selective, especially when buying bundles wrapped in plastic sheet. Opening a wrapped pack with a (legal) penknife before purchase to check the condition is far better than waiting until you get home and then watching the boards spring in all directions with perhaps some inner ones having knots and splits in inconvenient places leading to wastage and more expense.

…. shortage of cleaners???🤫

AE, Zen, Gaugemaster Next18 decoders. I would be interested to hear of any member’s experience of these attractively priced decoders. Essentially, the ability of the decoder to be configured for fine control at slow speed with the emphasis on really slow initial starting and stopping as per the Zimo chips. Because of the apparent difficulty in obtaining decoders from preferred manufacturers, I’m exploring the market for a suitable substitute having the above characteristics at a reasonable price. Well aware of “you get what you pay for”, however the more budget priced decoders from Lenz and Zimo continue to provide brilliant service. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Bob.