Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

850 Good

Profile Information

  • Location
    Colchester, Essex
  • Interests
    GE/LNER Branchlines in Essex during the transitional period so I can run steam, diesels and DMU's

Recent Profile Visitors

289 profile views
  1. Couldn't resist, had to do a bit.... The start of the side supports on one side, as above and below with the othe bits of angle iron on... I think they will turn out ok.... Cheers Scott
  2. Jon, A tad earlier than previously mentioned...... Hope this helps. All of the main structures for all wagons, coaches and carriages are made with 0.75mm thk plasticard, so on some of the dims (all in mm) you'll have to make your own adjustments to the thickness you prefer to work in. On the end elevation at the bottom where the grain comes out, using 0.75, the size would be 4mm (5.5mm - 2 x mat'l thickness, don't want to teach you how to suck eggs or be condescending, sorry) Using the dims on my drawing you should be able to get a half decent representation of one of these hoppers. The three bases, if you'd like, i could make a drawing and cutting list for these. The width of the 'I' beams is set to 25mm inside. This is so, because ive found once the brass shoulder bearings are in the 'W' irons and they are glued to the inside of the frames, it will give the inside dim of 23.5mm which is ideal for the pinpoint axles. The width may not be to scale, but we'll see how well they'll turn out later. Scott
  3. It was over 5 years ago when i built the hoppers, but if i remember correctly...... 1. The long sloping ends were made first, the length is known, the triangular base is known and the bit where the grain falls out is known too. It was just a matter of joining all the lines together. 2. The slopey inny bits were next. The long base line is known, we know the true height of the triangle and also the bit where the grain falls out. In step 1. After cutting the long triangle we now know the length of the compound angle length. Join all the lines and cut out. You'll notice I've had to use a bit of filler here and there. I'll upload a diagram to help explain things tomorrow night after 9pm. I've done a bit more to the chassis tonight and they arevdrying under a small mountain of books to keep them flat, I'll post the chassis pix tomorrow as well. Anything else i can help with? Thanks for the question, always happy to help a fellow scratcher Scott
  4. I know I said my next build would be a step by step for all the new people that had started to look at what I do. But I've had these grain hoppers staring at me asking to be built. Along with the great photos JWealleans posted on the last page and the two books on "rolling stock worth modelling", I've given in, to try and finish these off. I've started with the base and from here we'll see how it goes. Its all a bit, make it up as you go along, type thing. Sometimes i wish there were instructions, but that's half the fun, isn't it? Thanks for looking. Scott
  5. Just a quick update on the 14ton ex GER well wagon. I took your advice and went for the smaller loops... I've added the brake gear both sides And the ride height with the buffers are spot on, well, at least with my two scratch built wagons So nearly finished the well wagon, fastest scratch build I've done. Cheers for looking. BTW, after I've finished my GE corridor full brake and my CCT, I'll be doing my next build ny each step, as I've noticed some new icons on the replies..... Scott
  6. That's the one. Just need oxford rail to pull their fingers out and give us one of these N7's. Incidently, the N7 is at chappel, i only found this out when i went to the Braintree & Halstead MRC on monday night. There HQ is on this wonderful museum's site. Sorry to hijack the thread for the last couple of replys......all yours now. Scott
  7. Just humming and harring on what bed tie down loops (for want of a better phrase, not knowing what they're actually called) to make..... I'm inclined to use the slighty larger ones made from brass 0.33. The smaller ones are made from the copper wire from some standsrd 3 core cable. Your thoughts please...... Thanks Scott
  8. I'll be watching with interest too. Have thought about scratch building these. One of my all time favourite photos is of the N7 hauling the quad arts up in Holt, Norfolk. Scott
  9. It was my birthday the other week, saw these and couldn't resist. As well as having some drawings for the 20t covered hopper i am going to be complete, it had a drawing for a GE well wagon. So while waiting for various bits and pieces to dry, I've knocked this up in the last couple of evenings. I have another drawing in this book below of a slightly smaller MAC L Does anyone else have the other Peter Tatlow books? What are they like for GE area? Im after drawings for GE wagons, hoppers and vans, etc..... I know a couple of his books deal with Scottish vehicles. Cheers Scott
  10. I do like your signal box and their interiors. Your other buildings and structures are good too. Keep up the good work and pictured. Scott
  11. Pete, Show us what you're up to and post some pic here or on my My/our coach building thread. Cheers Scott
  12. Thanks very much JW. The bit that worried me most was the area under the long slope to the headstock, thanks to your pictures, i can see clearly that its plated. That should help with keeping the frame rigid and square. Thanks again. Scott
  13. Just a wee bit of stretched sprue to finish off the hinges.. Doesn't look too shabby, even if I say so myself..... I think, it's just the buffers and vac pipes left Next, I'll finish these off, may need some help and extra pictures from you gentlemen Started these ages ago, never attempted frames, headstocks and sole bars, back then. But with the success I've had with with my past projects on this thread, im going to what I can achieve. Scott
  14. Done a tad more, busy with life.........you know how it is. Anyway, took the plunge and have added the full set of brakes to my GE vans. Still a few bits needed to complete the build, most noticeably, for the sides anyway, are the hinges and locking mechanism. Then its out with the guitar string for the vac pipes and add the buffers..... Then hey presto..... Scott
  15. I guess i'd better make them fitted, as i model late 50's early 60's transitional period. I dont suppose many unfitted wagons lasted this late. The only foreseeable problem i have, is where did i find that straw i used to make the vac/air cyclinders........ Thanks for your help chaps. Scott
  • Create New...