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  • Location
    Colchester, Essex
  • Interests
    GE/LNER Branchlines in Essex during the transitional period so I can run steam, diesels and DMU's

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  1. Wagons look great, a bit modern for me, but I agree with Darius43. A touch of weathering and some loads will add to the overall appearance of them. Nice to see some other scratch builds happening out there. Scott
  2. Haven't been slacking, the light sanding and the radii have been done to the rear T brackets. Passengers have been added, leaf springs done. Have started on some of the more noticeable rivets, these are made from stretched sprue. Once the rivets have hardened properly, they'll be easier to sand down, just the one side done so far. Just a few jobs left, the ther sides rivets, finish the axle box details, brake gear, bolt details for the split doors, then the roof. Thanks for looking. Scott
  3. So, I'll be saving up for a gaugemaster then. Im a bit of a numpty when it come to the electrics side of things, but give me a sheet of plastic and a wagon or coach is no problem. Thanks Scott
  4. Thanks for the 31 comments and thoughts, but back to controllers for a second, how about the H & M Duette, I want to run 2 loco's at a time. I've heard that they're built like tanks....any good? I know H&M haven't been made in donkeys years Anyone? Cheers, Scott
  5. Some really nice builds. The narrow gauge bogie hopper looks good, going to make any more? The teak finish on your coaches really look superb. Could you do a step by step with paints, brushes and other stuff you've used to create the finish ? Thanks Scott
  6. The state of my 31. All the buffer beams and coupling bits and bobs have just crumbled. As you can see, where the chassis has crumbled away ive tidied up the ends. But what will become of the rest of the chassis through time???? Will the mazak rot eventually chew its way through that too? Ive seen on the bay new guaranteed chassis for about £50. The fan end of the lower cab has 2 small splits, nothing that i should be able to camouflage. The other end appears to be ok. I'll see what i can do, i might take the plunge and get a new chassis, though its really gutting as you can imagine. I've never spent so much money on a loco before (though it was 10 years ago), and to think i may have to part with the little spare cash i have, rectifying hornbys manufacturers c*ck up the metal they used Grr!!!! Cheers Scott
  7. Bit more progress, Most of the bracketry done, a light sand here and there, then just a few radii to add. Adding the lead into the bottom of the cattle pen is giving it a satisfying weighty feel. The W irons are glued and double 8 spoke wheels are in. FYI the inside distance between the W irons is 23.5mm, this seems to be ideal. Again, free rolling and no wobble. Think i might decorate the inside before i get carriec away with adding more delicate detail. Thanks for looking Scott
  8. Another productive evening. The basic external bracing and doors has been done. Quite pleased with the result so far. I'll be adding some weight between the doors, before adding the roof, which will stop the droopyness of of the upper part of the wagon sides, It will need to be painted. Ive also noted that there appears to be two open slots on the ends of the cattle wagon. The few pictures i have of this vehicle show the odd bit of plumbers hemp....i mean straw scattered about the floor and protruding through these holes. A nice bit of detail to add, i think. Thanks for looking, Scott
  9. It's just both ends (at the moment, at least for now), though the body moulding has a tiny split in the corners Can you give me more detail or is it a job of trying to botch it as best as I can? Cheers, Scott
  10. Jon Exactly that, with the exception of cutting the slots in the side panels. Before cutting them out everything is scribed then the layers of details are added. I my have to invest in an olfa or tamiya panel scriber as when I scribe with the back of a 10A scalpel, it does tend to throw a burr up either side. Cheers Scott
  11. Nice scratch builds. Looks like I'll need to invest in one of those olfa scribers. I've been using the back edge of a 10A scalpel, but does throw up a burr. Do you get the same problem with the olfa/ tamiya panel line scriber? If you look at my "my/our carriage scratch building" thread you may see what i mean. Cheers, Scott
  12. On a bit of a roll tonight. Have made some good progress. Thats one side partially done. You may notice that my original ends radii was too tight, more accurate now. I've decided that i should be able to get away with the two roof supports that tie in the door posts. Thanks for looking Scott
  13. Can't help myself, ever feel like that? Next up, a large GE cattle wagon. Im using LNER wagons, Vol 1, by Peter Tatlow. Just a one off this time, just to see how I get on with the roof. The two sides have been scribed, I'm now starting to build the details up. Thanks for looking, crits, Q's & comments are always welcome Scott
  14. Guys, Thanks oh so much.....the culprit Every other loco runs sweet with this controller So ive been in the loft and dug these relics out (bringing back any memories, anyone?) My airfix class 31 runs smooth with these babies, though i dont have the low speed control id like. Didnt think the controller would be the problem, thanks again. Soooo, any recommendations for a controller with the output i need? Cheers Scott
  15. A fairly newish Hornby DC controller. Btw the wheels are clean and when i apply the wires directly to the pick ups, same thing happens, no matter what speed the controller is set at it runs for a few seconds, i then have to wait several more before she'll run again. Frustrating, you can imagine, i wonder if there is a capacitor in there thats faulty??? Thanks Scott
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