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SharpSharp

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  1. I attached the DCC reversing module to short length of track alnd it worked well. Then a friend bought his Blackpool Flexity round and it is about three times the length of the section with the module, so we couldn't run it. I rewired, adding DPDT switch to the feed to the next section of track so it can be fed from the normal track supply of the from the reversing module. I can now have a short or a long section connected to the Auto Reversing Module. It's a good solution.
  2. Thanks for the reply Keith. I'm not using live overhead, thus the loop being an issue. You've identified the issues that have been concerning me with regard to tram multiple trams on the loop. I like your reasoning for a shot section, I think that should be safer. I will have to place it carefully. I plan to have a tram stop on the loop, if I place a short auto-reversing section after the stop I shouldn't have a problem with trams entering and leaving at the same time. I'll look into the compatibility issue you mentioned. Thanks for the tip.
  3. I'm adding a loop to my DCC tramway. I will need to add a revising module. I am wondering how long to make the section of track that the module will control. General advice is longer than the longest "train". But tram movements are different to standard train movements. The section could be anything from 20 cm to the full 2 meters of the loop. Has anyone got any experience or thoughts?
  4. That's a really interesting point. I'd not thought of that issue. A tram platform on a railway line is, in effect, an unfenced section. I foresee linespeed restrictions going along with staggered platforms and, as Alan said, fences in the 6 foot.
  5. I've noticed that tramways tend to use grooved track on small radius corners, even when its reserved track. My guess is that this is pre-curved grooved track. It will be interesting to see where they mark the boundary between railway and tramway. It is my understanding that this differentiation is to do with the infrastructure (signalling, fencing etc) rather than what runs on the rails.
  6. Having suggested Tramway Track, I think I now prefer Grooved Track. It removes suggestion that its just for running trams on. I tend to say Grooved Track for on street sections of tramway and Reserved Track for off street sections. This can cause confusion when discussing the groved track used on tight corners of a reserved section of tramway.
  7. This sounds like a very basic suggestion, but how about Tramway Track. To the best of my knowledge it is the correct term for when a railway runs along a roadway.
  8. Thanks for the reply. Sounds simple enough. I have another Leeds Horsefield I want to motorise so I may give the KSW a try. The Horseflied with the Bachmann motor is working well. I gave it a test run on my garden railway through a ladder of insufrog points and it ran well.
  9. Seems a bit pointless adding my thoughts to a two year old question, but here goes. Bachmann Birkenhead Tram DCC Conversion. When I ddi my first DCC conversation on one of these models in 2012 there was nothing online on how to go about it. I had the same Resistor/Inductor debate with myself. I left the circuit board as it was and simply put the DCC chip between the pickup and the circuit board. It worked. Wiring the directional lights was straightforward. The only issue I had was that the chip I’d used wasn’t suitable. It was from Hornby, released from a "DCC Fitted" model when I was doing a lighting upgrade. The advantage of the chip was it’s size, it fitted very nicely out of sight. The disadvantage was that when it lost power for a moment the lights went off and didn’t come back on. I was forever pressing the headlight button twice. With my second of these models I used a Gaugemaster chip. This was even smaller than the Hornby one, but the wires were much thicker and I had real difficulties routing them. The lights stayed on. By the time I chipped my third tram I’d read this thread. It confirmed my suspicions that I could remove the capacitors and inductors and this freed up space for a Stay Alive unit. I’ve used DCC Concepts ZN8H chips which come with Stay Alive units. It’s a squeeze to get the Stay Alive in to an unseen space, but I managed it. The Stay Alive certainly helps through points, but you still have to follow the golden rule of clean wheels and good pickups. On these motors I have found that the pickups are a little flimsy and need a little adjustment with tweezers to ensure they are in contact with the wheels all the time. I’ve just removed the motor from my first tram (which solves the problem of the Hornby chip) and I’m fitting it to a Leeds Horsefield. I like the fact that the motor is small enough to fit without having to cut out the tram floor so I can keep the seats in place. There is also room for the DCC chip and the Stay Alive unit. At the moment I’m procrastinating over whether to solder leads direct to the motor pickups or used the contacts as per the original. I still have to decide if I’m going to add directional lighting. The chip has blue, white and yellow wires, it would be a shame to not use them. Alan recommends the Halling KSW, stating it does a better job. Assuming that I was prepared to sacrifice the seats in the lower deck has anyone got experience of converting one of these motors to DCC? The Bachmann motor has external contacts for pick ups and motor drive which make DCC conversion simple. Is it as easy with the Halling KSW?
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