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Everything posted by Spotlc

  1. This gives an idea of how the terrace is assembled - the foam cores are glued between the walls, a strip of pastel coloured paper is glued into the window recesses, and then the front wall, complete with glazing, door, curtains, blinds, etc is glued in position as a single unit. On the right are base wall templates cut out, ready for the printed brick covering to be stuck on, and the window sills to be fitted. I used Prittstick, or similar glue stick, for a long time to stick the cover sheets on but I am increasingly printing the cover layers on the self adhesive paper that is sol
  2. Thanks for your encouragement, John! Yes the Brassmasters windows are very good and ideal for 4mm, but sadly they don't exist for 3mm! To be honest, this is a fairly tedious way of doing it, but the results are very satisfying, and it beats the pants off printing black windows on OHT film! Oh for a printer with a white ink cartridge, which would make this almost redundant! Your 7mm building looks lovely - I've always been afraid of 7mm - it would show up my failings to easily! Cheers, Mike
  3. Hi Pandora, thanks for your interest. I've always mixed my own, but you can buy it ready made in UK as "Button Polish", French Polish", or "Sanding Sealer" I'm sure there are other suppliers, but in UK I always bought shellac flakes from either Fiddes in Cardiff, or Industrial Plasters in Chippenham. Rough proportions are 100g of flakes to 1 litre of alcohol for a light lacquer, 200 g/litre for medium and 300g/litre for a heavy brew! Crush the flakes before dissolving in alcohol, which takes a few hours - and best left overnight. Any transparent alcohol will do - methylated spirits or is
  4. Here is one way of making realistic windows any size you want - the frames are first printed on self adhesive label paper, which is then stuck to a thin transparent plastic, - can be anything that comes to hand as long as it is flat and can be cut. Then comes the hard bit - each "pane" is carefully cut out with a scalpel, then the tiny piece of paper lifted with the tweezers, leaving the glazed frame intact ready to be fixed inside the window aperture. I set out of the graphics in Inkscape, using a layer taken from the original wall template, and here I have printed the whole set for two h
  5. Nice idea, Kevin! The grounded coach was probably ex GER and I exoect hard to find, but there is a very similar GWR all third coach kit in the Parkside catalogue: PC610. Not identical, but does have five doors as your prototype pic seems to show. Anyway, good luck! Mike
  6. Thanks for your encouragement, T-A! And for the tip about the URL, I'll leave this one as it is, then use your suggestion on any new vids I put up. As for the slow speed control, it's that which made me try out battery power and R/C, and although it is sometimes frustrating to find solutions, it is the very precise control at low speeds that make the effort worthwhile! I'll try and do a video of very gentle coupling and uncoupling, which is where low speed control is most important. Thanks again, Mike
  7. After what is a huge gap since I posted anything on here, I finally got round to making a little video of a simple movement of a Siphon G. Rather out of my comfort zone with the video thing - not even sure if the link will work, - I'd appreciate it if someone could explain how you get make the thumbnail picture the actual link, rather than having the URL link underneath! Loose shunting at New Prospect Lane Cheers, Mike
  8. Hi John, yes, you are right, they are a bit meaty for 3mm scale, - for all sorts of reasons I ran out of 2mm MDF, but I'll pretend they were built to a high standard, and had 13" party walls! I wanted to compare cutting them out on the bandsaw with cutting out in card - dimensional accuracy, surface finish, etc, so I pressed on regardless! I have used 3mm foamboard for 1/76th models, and again you are right, about it being far easier to cut than thick card. I did have some issues with the open cut edges showing through the paper cover sheet sometimes, and the idea of these fo
  9. Bob the Builder. A Diversion! I apologise again to the railway enthusiasts here, because this diversion is about model buildings rather than railways, but since buildings are often part of micro layouts and dioramas, I hope I am forgiven. I had already made the row of terraced houses, which are from an old, now discontinued Scalescenes download, again reduced to 1/100. I used a similar foam core technique that I had played about with in New Prospect Lane, but modified to take account of the smaller 3mm scale. This poor photo is the only pic I have of them when
  10. Thanks again, Kevin! Still a long way to go, but I'm still enjoying the challenges of "Tiny"!! Cheers, Mike
  11. Very nice lighting effects, TA! I reckon that the time taken to light even a few buildings is well worth the effort, and this is a good example. Bravo! Mike
  12. The two parts of the building were first glued together, back face down on the suface plate, then the support ribs behind were added. To make sure everthing was properly lined up, the roof section was joined to the base in-situ, and to prevent the whole thing ending up stuck to the frame panels, I used the old trick of kitchen clingfilm as a mask, which is only a few microns thick, and forms the perfect barrier to almost any kind of adhesive. This shot "across the rooftops" gives an idea of what the finished thing might look like - still a lot
  13. Hi Jerry, many thanks for your encouragement! Cheers, Mike
  14. Hi TA, many thanks for your kind words! I've always enjoyed making card models, but 3mm scale is quite small for the aged mitts, so I often make blunders which then need ages to repair, which just slows things down! Cheers, Mike Thanks again, Kevin, I think I am getting close to a "stage" with this, but it seems to be taking some time for such a tiny model! Cheers, Mike
  15. Thanks again four your encouragement, Kevin, much appreciated! Now, made a bit more progress; I decided on the sunken roof and parapet, which I made up as a separate item yesterday, here it's just lodged in position before I assemble it to the two buildings: All from 1mm thick card with paper coverings, and you see what I mean by funny angles! - the next thing will be finally marrying the three bits together! Cheers, Mike
  16. Thanks again for your kind words, Kevin! I made a bit of progress on the factory frontage with the projecting entrance, and made another stab at the roof, but I'm still not happy with this and I am more or less certain it's going to be a flat roof behind a low wall! The main factory facade was next cut out of 1.5mm card and adorned with Scalescenes brick papers; there is no lighting in this bit, so the fake windows came from Textures.com (this is a great site with a staggering number of textures and images that can be downloaded for f
  17. Here's the walls ready to be glued up. The piers are just bits of 3mm MDF with a 1mm slot sawn in them, and then covered with brick paper, and slipped over the card wall. Here is the single arch end wall, it's just a brick infilled arch, 'cos it will be hardly seen behind the houses, which is just as well because the corner joint of the two buttresses would be all but impossible to make in real life, as anyone who has ever done any bricklaying can see!! I'm sure some sort of bush or climber will take root to hide this! This gives an idea of how the viaduct
  18. Thanks for your encouragement, Steve, much appreciated! Not progress in the real sense, but time for another quick mock up. Some card cut outs just lodged together to see if the ideas will work! I usually do a crude sketch of what I have in mind, and my original idea was for a northlight roof for the factory, but when I stuck a cardboard cut out on it doesn't look right, so I'm thinking about a sunken roof behind a brick parapet, but I'll try a cut out first. You must think that I have shares in some cardboard company - I haven't, but it keeps my enthusiasm going!
  19. Speedy return to health, BG! Recovery from any kind of surgery isn't just physical, your morale is also very important, so keep your spirits up and start plotting the next instalment! Best wishes, Mike
  20. Got round to glueing the cardboard facade to the core yesterday. Maybe you can just see them, there are pieces of scrap MDF between the clamps and the card face to spread the load and stop the clamps marking the work. It's always best to do this with softer materials like card or balsa, and it's standard practice in good quality joinery and cabinet work anyway. Once the base was complete I glued on the trackbed, made from 1mm cardstock which was given two generous coats of shellac before glueing on the paper covers for the parapet edge. This is to waterproof th
  21. So far, so good - with the facade complete, I can turn to the "viaduct" itself. I will make it from 3mm MDF with 6mm MDF formers, and I want to be able to access the void space behind the arches for detailing the shop later, and perhaps for some electrics. Although it would be perfectly possible to cut these apertures in the sheet, the result would be very fragile and difficult to glue up, and it is often easier to assemble the whole thing first, then deal with the cutting out after. Here I'm boring out a corner with a 25mm Forstner bit; the work slides against a fixed fen
  22. Thanks again for your kind words, Kevin Thanks, John, appreciated! Scalescenes were the first building downloads I ever used, I loved them then, and I still do! Many thanks! Yes, small enough to have a certain charm, but big enough to have reasonable detail! I must admit I am a recent convert though! Cheers, Mike
  23. Thanks for your encouragement, Kevin! The facade for the newsagents is complete, as this cruel, three times lifesize close up shows! The base of the arch is only 72mm wide, so any errors are greatly magnified here! Here's the other two. The adverts are downloaded from the internet and then re-sized in Inkscape, and the signs are also drawn in Inkscape, which I use for all graphic related work. Cheers, Mike
  24. Now the basic case has come together, I can start on the facade of the viaduct. These are almost pure unaltered Scalescenes OO downloads, but printed at 76% to produce a 1:100 scale model. I have built these before in 1:76 scale and they make up into a very nice way of creating an elevated railway or road, with some additional scenic interest underneath. No connection to Scalescenes, just saying. In 3mm scale they are a bit more fiddly, and you need a sharp scalpel, used carefully, to cut the arch curves because errors are more obvious the smaller the scale. You don't need t
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