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Everything posted by Spotlc

  1. Chips with Everything! Terrace nearing Completion! For all sorts of reasons, I didn't take many pics of building the chip shop, but it is just the standard Scalescenes Corner Shop, which has several usage options - chip shop, greengrocer, pub, etc, and can be built in either right or left hand versions. This was printed out at 76%, and built more or less as per instructions, but I made the roof section removeable, so I can detail the interior later, and there will be lights in the shop and in the flat above. I ommited the rear yard and shed for reasons of space, and
  2. Lower Down The front wall of this model is removable, so I was able to get the camera almost at ground level, which produced a rather different view of the yard. Taken in natural daylight. I’m no great lover of flash photography for models – it often produces harsh black shadows – but it does have it’s uses and one of them is to produce artificial night shots like this, almost the same scene as above but taken using the camera’s built in flash, and a very brief exposure. Both pics 75mm lens on Sony A-100 Cheers, Mike
  3. Photo Play The pannier tank has pushed a few wagons into position in the yard. Taken with a 75mm lens on Sony Alpha. Here's the same scene, but this time in monochrome and taken with a 105mm lens from the same position. Just for fun, the cold winter morning version! Cheers, Mike
  4. I seem to be on a bit of a photograph roll with this model, which I haven't really done much with since it reached a useable state over a year ago. At least, nothing to improve it, but I have had a lot of fun discovering what it's limitations are! I feel much more at home with still photos than videos, so I'll gradually put up a few more pics taken at various times and with various digital cameras. They are not razor sharp in every plane, or super detail revealing, and that is deliberate - I don't mean to sound pretentious here - but I've tried to use the model as the basis
  5. Hi Keith, thanks again for your encouragement! You are too kind - it looks better in the pic than it actually is, and you don't want to know how long I really spent faffing about with it! Your effort for the Cakebox challenge looks excellent, and I'm enjoying your revival of Union Station. Cheers, Mike
  6. Keith, many thanks for your kind words! Given the right equipment and a bit of experience it's possible to create many different impressions of the same scene - if you want to produce realistic pics of model trains it's best to use a medium telephoto lens, say 75 or 100mm equivalent on 35mm film, and keep the camera near track level. Having said that, I mostly don't bother, and use either the camera on my cheap Chinese phone, or a little Canon Ixus, simply because it's easier! You need very small apertures to keep everything sharp with a 75mm lens, so the exposure times are long, so y
  7. Grim Little Place II Thanks for the likes! Colour photography only became widely used in the UK in the 1960's - until then most photography was in monochrome, so I thought you might like to compare these two otherwise identical images. I quite like the colour version - the slight haze evokes the reek of diesel exhaust as the Gronk rumbles past, not helped by the Ford Thames Trader having been left with the engine ticking over! No - you wouldn't want to work here! I de-saturated the colour pic completely, and gave it a bit of gentle warm
  8. Hi Kevin, thanks again for your kind words! I started do do these because although I love the Scalescenes designs, It isn't always necessary to have all the elaborate detail of the building's interior, so I have tried to combine the best of the facades and roofs with a quickly made support core. In fact, it's not that quick, and I need to do a bit more work to get it right, but worth going on with, as my Dad used to say! Cheers, Mike
  9. Grim Little Place! This model was built largely as a platform to try out different construction techniques, and I never paid a great deal of attention to the overall appearance, but I suppose deep down I wanted to get away from the "perpetual summers day" look, and capture some of the more workaday atmosphere of the small railway yards that I remember from my youth. I was born and grew up in the City of Gloucester, which had locomotive depots of both the former GWR and LMS companies - these were great places for boys to to prowl around, and I did! There was much to fa
  10. This gives an idea of how the terrace is assembled - the foam cores are glued between the walls, a strip of pastel coloured paper is glued into the window recesses, and then the front wall, complete with glazing, door, curtains, blinds, etc is glued in position as a single unit. On the right are base wall templates cut out, ready for the printed brick covering to be stuck on, and the window sills to be fitted. I used Prittstick, or similar glue stick, for a long time to stick the cover sheets on but I am increasingly printing the cover layers on the self adhesive paper that is sol
  11. Thanks for your encouragement, John! Yes the Brassmasters windows are very good and ideal for 4mm, but sadly they don't exist for 3mm! To be honest, this is a fairly tedious way of doing it, but the results are very satisfying, and it beats the pants off printing black windows on OHT film! Oh for a printer with a white ink cartridge, which would make this almost redundant! Your 7mm building looks lovely - I've always been afraid of 7mm - it would show up my failings to easily! Cheers, Mike
  12. Hi Pandora, thanks for your interest. I've always mixed my own, but you can buy it ready made in UK as "Button Polish", French Polish", or "Sanding Sealer" I'm sure there are other suppliers, but in UK I always bought shellac flakes from either Fiddes in Cardiff, or Industrial Plasters in Chippenham. Rough proportions are 100g of flakes to 1 litre of alcohol for a light lacquer, 200 g/litre for medium and 300g/litre for a heavy brew! Crush the flakes before dissolving in alcohol, which takes a few hours - and best left overnight. Any transparent alcohol will do - methylated spirits or is
  13. Here is one way of making realistic windows any size you want - the frames are first printed on self adhesive label paper, which is then stuck to a thin transparent plastic, - can be anything that comes to hand as long as it is flat and can be cut. Then comes the hard bit - each "pane" is carefully cut out with a scalpel, then the tiny piece of paper lifted with the tweezers, leaving the glazed frame intact ready to be fixed inside the window aperture. I set out of the graphics in Inkscape, using a layer taken from the original wall template, and here I have printed the whole set for two h
  14. Nice idea, Kevin! The grounded coach was probably ex GER and I exoect hard to find, but there is a very similar GWR all third coach kit in the Parkside catalogue: PC610. Not identical, but does have five doors as your prototype pic seems to show. Anyway, good luck! Mike
  15. Thanks for your encouragement, T-A! And for the tip about the URL, I'll leave this one as it is, then use your suggestion on any new vids I put up. As for the slow speed control, it's that which made me try out battery power and R/C, and although it is sometimes frustrating to find solutions, it is the very precise control at low speeds that make the effort worthwhile! I'll try and do a video of very gentle coupling and uncoupling, which is where low speed control is most important. Thanks again, Mike
  16. After what is a huge gap since I posted anything on here, I finally got round to making a little video of a simple movement of a Siphon G. Rather out of my comfort zone with the video thing - not even sure if the link will work, - I'd appreciate it if someone could explain how you get make the thumbnail picture the actual link, rather than having the URL link underneath! Loose shunting at New Prospect Lane Cheers, Mike
  17. Hi John, yes, you are right, they are a bit meaty for 3mm scale, - for all sorts of reasons I ran out of 2mm MDF, but I'll pretend they were built to a high standard, and had 13" party walls! I wanted to compare cutting them out on the bandsaw with cutting out in card - dimensional accuracy, surface finish, etc, so I pressed on regardless! I have used 3mm foamboard for 1/76th models, and again you are right, about it being far easier to cut than thick card. I did have some issues with the open cut edges showing through the paper cover sheet sometimes, and the idea of these fo
  18. Bob the Builder. A Diversion! I apologise again to the railway enthusiasts here, because this diversion is about model buildings rather than railways, but since buildings are often part of micro layouts and dioramas, I hope I am forgiven. I had already made the row of terraced houses, which are from an old, now discontinued Scalescenes download, again reduced to 1/100. I used a similar foam core technique that I had played about with in New Prospect Lane, but modified to take account of the smaller 3mm scale. This poor photo is the only pic I have of them when
  19. Thanks again, Kevin! Still a long way to go, but I'm still enjoying the challenges of "Tiny"!! Cheers, Mike
  20. Very nice lighting effects, TA! I reckon that the time taken to light even a few buildings is well worth the effort, and this is a good example. Bravo! Mike
  21. The two parts of the building were first glued together, back face down on the suface plate, then the support ribs behind were added. To make sure everthing was properly lined up, the roof section was joined to the base in-situ, and to prevent the whole thing ending up stuck to the frame panels, I used the old trick of kitchen clingfilm as a mask, which is only a few microns thick, and forms the perfect barrier to almost any kind of adhesive. This shot "across the rooftops" gives an idea of what the finished thing might look like - still a lot
  22. Hi Jerry, many thanks for your encouragement! Cheers, Mike
  23. Hi TA, many thanks for your kind words! I've always enjoyed making card models, but 3mm scale is quite small for the aged mitts, so I often make blunders which then need ages to repair, which just slows things down! Cheers, Mike Thanks again, Kevin, I think I am getting close to a "stage" with this, but it seems to be taking some time for such a tiny model! Cheers, Mike
  24. Thanks again four your encouragement, Kevin, much appreciated! Now, made a bit more progress; I decided on the sunken roof and parapet, which I made up as a separate item yesterday, here it's just lodged in position before I assemble it to the two buildings: All from 1mm thick card with paper coverings, and you see what I mean by funny angles! - the next thing will be finally marrying the three bits together! Cheers, Mike
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