NittenDormer

I was looking for marriage guidance.

Perfect gap for setrack spacing.

It was discussed on Radio 4 at the same time (12.30ish). I was listening to R2 in the car, came into the house, put radio on and wondered why Jeremy had handed off mid-programme. Easily confused...

Scalextric for trains - great idea 'imt'! Be aware that the inner curve at each end is what is known as 'radius 1'. Many locos are sold as suitable for radius 2 minimum. Are you going for a level crossing or overbridge? A level crossing is fraught with collision danger, an overbridge will require pretty steep gradients, limiting your train length (plus gradients on a sharp bend add to the resistance).

I quite fancy giving this a go, can you explain the circuitry? And if battery powered, how do you access for turning on/off?

I'm planning to build a bridge of the (apologies for any incorrect terminology) lattice girder under the track variety - real-life examples being Shin Viaduct, Far North Line, or Interest, East Lothian EC main line. I'm struggling to find guides or suggestions on how to do this on Rmweb, can anyone point me towards threads with step by step 'how to's? (Or launch into one now....)

Preparing more trackbed for supercantevation, because I believe in making things more difficult than they need to be.

A record breaking gap between posts. Sometimes because I've been doing stuff and too busy, sometimes because I haven't been doing stuff. And sometimes because the stuff I've been doing is boring, like wiring. So, in a further' 'commitment' stage, more track has been glued and soldered down, then I've possibly been fussing too much about exactly what colour to paint the rails. I started with a tin of Humbrol 'track colour', although this is meant for tank tracks I believe. One tin was emptied surprisingly quickly, so I bought a tube of acrylic (burnt umber) and mixed it with black powder paint to get a dark muck. Needs more testing - doesn't seem to airbrush as well. Here is a bit of the Humbrol painted track: I can potentially go on forever fretting about this, so I decided to stop now, and try some ballasting. Only to notice I hadn't filled the track joint gaps with dummy sleepers. Next I bodged an issue with the gap between track pieces being too big, being not wanting to face lifting the track and relaying it, I inserted TINY bits of rail in the joiner: More lessons from how not to build a model railway shortly.

I do love a good ploughing competition.

Another vote for changing the inner track - assuming you are using flexible track, it will be easier to trim a little off here and there than it would be to increase the length around the outer loop. Trial and error with your rolling stock. At that radius, you are likely to need closer to the setrack gap of 67mm than the 'streamline' 50mm.

Their positioning logic has dawned on me - being further back than the bridge parapet, they are safe from anything that doesn't hit the bridge. As long as the bridge doesn't sway, or stumble, or move in the slipstream. Having said that, they could legitimately be that close to the track on a station platform, so ignoring the trespass element, inconsistent application of 'safety'?

I just hope none of the victim's family read this, they may get the impression that all train enthusiasts lack empathy. A little more decorum please.

That light isn't the end of the tunnel, it's the Pun Express rapidly approaching...

Enjoying your thread, I feel your terraced house pain. I've turned to tunnel mouths, or anything without windows.

What about the tunnel? Does that suffer from water ingress? And does the hill fit under the bed?