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    Modern Image 1988-1994 with a bit of blue and grey.

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  1. Thoroughly enjoyed this edition - lots of content relevent to my era (1980s - early 1990s). Keep up the good work. Teabag
  2. I've tried endless different types of reverse loops in bored Anyrail moments. I use nested 2nd, 3rd and 4th radius loops as hidden storage sidings on my own 12 x 6 layout. Even a 2nd radius loop is >2m long which is six Mk 2 coaches plus loco. Teabag
  3. On my 12 x 6 I use reverse loops to both turn trains and store stock. The layout is inspired by the classic Bredon. It lives in the garage. which is tapered so I can have a small terminus as a sort of cameo at the rear, otherwise it would just have been storage loops. Numbers are lengths or radii in centimeters and each square is 30 x 30cm. The layout is drawn in Anyrail and set in the late 1980s sectorisation period. Control iss DCC with an NCE Powercab. Teabag
  4. Yep, that was one of them - fantastic detail in the different grades of scrap.
  5. Really enjoyed the show - even more so than last year. A good selection of layouts, great idea to have a kids area and some really great micro layout on balcony 1. All in all, worth the visit. Teabag.
  6. Sorry, I'm a bit late to this thread. I had exactly the same problem for my 3.6 x 1.6m (~12' x 6') layout. Usually it is up against the garage wall but sometimes I need to move it. I used four casters set at the 1/4 and 3/4 positions. I have my layout set to be eye height when sitting on a swivel office chair. This allows the layout to sit above things like storage boxes etc. The basic structure can be seen below - you can just make out one of the casters. They are a hard rubber and have not flattened after 3 years. Using a bigger diameter makes moving the layout easier. Mine swivel,
  7. Putting some ballast under the actuating bar is a really great idea that I haven't seen before. Wish I had thought of that! Teabag
  8. Originally I did not bother priming, but found the sleep grime paint would sometimes flake off the sleepers when I was brushing the ballast in place (Peco wooden code 75), so I tried priming which seemed to improve adhesion. Teabag
  9. Teabag

    Class 150

    Good evening all, I have a quick question...do the old chassis Class 150 bodies fit on the new Class 150 chassis? Teabag
  10. Similar for me, low speed crash resulting in 2 plates and 11 screws (12th screw would be where the gap in the bones is) holding my left arm together. Mrs T insisted that the bike had to go which was rather depressing until I had the idea of using the space in the garage for a model railway. So, my beloved SV650S was replaced by 12' by 6' OO gauge layout which almost compensates... Teabag
  11. Also critical is the transition from the straight to the curve,if you make this nice and gentle - as per JST's photo above, the tightness of the final curve is a little less obvious. Teabag
  12. I'm a bit lazy....Halfords grey primer all over and then Railmatch Sleeper Grime, again sprayed all over, then rub the tops of the rails with hardboard or a strong cloth - isopropyl alcohol for the stubborn bits. Then, once it has been ballasted I gradually over time add detailing - oil, grease etc. to stop it looking too uniform. Teabag
  13. In my garage I have two fluorescent strips mounted on the ceiling and find that when I sit to view the trains just above track height the light is too bright such that I don't see the detail on the trains unless I shield my eyes as you would if looking at something with the sun behind. This is really annoying - not sure what the solution is other than wearing hat... Teabag.
  14. Back in either 1982 or 83, to celebrate it's 50th jubilee our primary school hired a train for all 350 pupils from Chingford to Southend reversing at LIverpool Street. Teabag
  15. I varnish the underside and use timer undercoat and then a sort of dark mud coloured emulsion mix on top. My layout lives in a damp garage that varies from 5 to 35C. No warping in 4 years. Teabag
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