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Yorkshire Square

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Everything posted by Yorkshire Square

  1. Mike The locomotive wheels are driving or carrying all in the 3-003 to 3-070 range. Driving wheels will have a boss for the crankpin (unless they are extended axle). Carrying wheels are suitable as pony wheels, bogie wheels or tender wheels.
  2. No, that will only get you down!
  3. Buildings for Hull Bridge currently being worked on: Small row of cottage, workshop and shop. This now needs gutters and downpipes. Not as advanced is the stable block for the yard. Plenty yet to do on this.
  4. At least when he's spotting lamp posts, he's not bothering those poor pylons...
  5. 7mm coarse scale broad gauge. Displayed on a beautifully modelled overscale finger...
  6. I was going to ask if the wheels on the truck go round and round...
  7. You can phone Childline, for that sort of thing, these days.
  8. The standard 8.5mm wheels are based on the Austerity (spoke count, profile etc). It was decided not list them as such, so as not to dissuade members using them for other projects!
  9. B*gger! Ordered some from Aliexpress only two weeks ago. Possibly stuck in the Suez!
  10. In a dusty corner of 2mm Towers, we have unearthed a very small supply of the Masterclass MkI coach kits, some variants of which have not been available for some time. They are now listed in shop 3 at reduced prices. Get them while you can, there are no more dusty corners left to check! See shop listings for more details.
  11. That's a shame, but there are only 300 odd people saying they have this problem. How many accounts do PayPal run, do you think? I have control of four alone. PayPal can be awkward sometimes, especially if it's a bit out of the ordinary. Conversely, some of the comments by posters in those links mention giving fake names and scamming Instagram accounts. Maybe some aren't as legit as you might think.
  12. The charge will be in the conversion rates. If you send £100.00 to someone in the Eurozone it will be converted at say 1.08 giving Eur108.00. If that were then immediately transferred back, the rate might be 1.16 giving you £93.00 back in your UK bank. Congratulations, you have generated £7.00 of fees!
  13. If a trader takes PayPal, but you don't have a PayPal account, you can still pay his PayPal invoice using a debit or credit card. As an membership organisation (The 2mm Scale Association) over 95% of our shop sales are by PayPal, either from the members own PayPal account or using the above process. The remaining 5% can pay by cheque if they have no computer or card/PayPal. Whilst we pay for the PayPal facility, the simplicity of it - getting a fairly substantial quantity of payments each month, from members across the globe, to three separate mail-order shops manned by volunteers and then reconciled by muggins here - makes it good value. The cheques are generally a pain and they're usually the part that causes issues.
  14. That would be a false premise Nick. If something sells in adequate numbers and can be sourced without too much hassle, then we will stock it. Hence the chassis etch 2-330, which was Bill Blackburn's very first etch to the standards established in the mid 90's, was redrawn under commission by Andy Hanson when we lost control of the original artwork following Bill's death. Conversely Bill's excellent but fiddly track etches were delisted recently, having not sold a single unit for over two years - no-one batted an eyelid. There are no de facto limited editions - demand and availability will determine what we stock. If you'd like a bulk discount on the Mk1s still in stock, I'd be happy to talk turkey!
  15. As Chris says, the bogies will continue to be stocked so long as he is willing to supply them. On the other hand, the Mk1 complete coaches will be delisted as they sell out. We've had one or two of most variants for several years with no sales to speak of. Farish's offerings in this area did for all but the most dedicated kit builders.
  16. The various coaching stock etches are being discontinued as they (very, very slowly) sell out. It would be worth posting something in the gloat box thread here and maybe sending a letter in to be published in the Newsletter - there are nowhere near as many completed models as there were etches sold. Chris Higgs did mention another run of the MkIV bogies and I said we would stock some in the Association shop. I've not heard anything on that for a while. If you're interested, it might be worth contacting Chris direct to express your interest.
  17. You do know which part of the country the Cally's in, right? Now if had been in Yorkshire, there'd be no doors either...
  18. The resins sold for use in 3D printers are all rated to cure at 405nm so technically not in the UV range, but just in the blue light range that you quote, Jim.
  19. There's also a wee bag coming your way from south of the border. In the post today...
  20. I use Blender too. It's certainly not a CAD package. As I understand it, it is mainly for 3D gaming developers. However, once you have mastered a few basic techniques it is fairly easy to get going and model digitally (as opposed to draw digitally with CAD). If you want to do something more complex, there are dozens of tutorials online to guide you along. I like it!
  21. Some interesting reading: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/photocurable-resin
  22. Thanks guys, that sort of confirms my thinking. I do my post curing on a windowsill and even on these darkest days the prints harden off without too much bother. I've been using Elegoo black resin and curing 0.02mm layers for 6 seconds without any issues. Despite the colour, it is quite translucent up to around 0.3mm (15 layers). I've also printed some quite large blocks - up to 10mm deep without problems. I guess that if you get the exposure level right at the printing stage, the internal structure isn't critical to some extent. Bear in mind though that increasing the exposure time will lead to bleed around the edges of the print. I can't imagine a scenario where you print a solid block and there is liquid in the middle. Maybe slightly softer layers, but not liquid or gooey. Interestingly I had to have a couple of fillings recently, the first in a while, and these were done in resin. The dentist explained that they were cured using "blue light" and were built up, as Jim says, in layers (just like a printer really). The exposures were typically 20-30 seconds per layer. I'm guessing that they were more than 0.02mm deep per layer!
  23. Surely a solid 25mm cube is printed in say 1250 slices of 0.02mm each. Are you saying that each layer is not sufficiently cured as it is printed? How would making a hollow cube with 1mm walls be any better? There will presumably be totally uncured resin adhered to the inside walls that has no likelihood of seeing UV. Does a breather hole, with potential to wash out most of that uncured resin, suffice?
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