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Yorkshire Square

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Posts posted by Yorkshire Square

  1. 16 hours ago, Simon D. said:

    Thank you Nigel for the quick response.  Any reasons?  

     

    Hi Simon

     

    There are various reasons that factor into the decision:

    • Many of the items are N Gauge and thus unsuitable.
    • Many of the items are duplicates of products already offered by the Association.
    • If we introduce items into the shops, we need to be fairly certain that that they will sell in reasonable quantities and that we can maintain the supply in future (after any initial stock acquired has been sold). Often many of the tools (casting or etching) feature mixes of products such that to acquire item A, you end up with items B, C and D too. The Association has moved away from this approach in recent years ensuring that we have dedicated tooling for individual items. While this is more costly at the outset, it is more efficient thereafter.
    • Most importantly, the process is long and arduous and needs members to volunteer to undertake the work involved. This is likely to involve inspecting bulk bags of parts, identifying them, assessing their suitability, identifying the tooling for them and recording this information (along with considerations as to other parts on the tool), possibly making the tooling good for future production, cataloguing parts, pricing them and shipping them to shops. The Etched Pixels work was enormous, fell on the shoulders of two or three individuals and ultimately yielded a relatively small number of parts. The owner of Etched Pixels was very helpful and accommodating, but there was still substantial work required by Association members.

    If members feel that there are parts that the Association should stock, they need to make the Product Development Office aware and be prepared to be assist in the development and production of those parts.

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Tony Simms

    Sales Officer

    • Like 4
    • Informative/Useful 2
  2. 12 hours ago, MrSimon said:

    Thanks David,

     

    I’d got some off a random seller on eBay and they felt a little bigger than I thought they should be to go in the middle of some valve gear - then I measured them and they’re bang on 2mm o.d.  - I’ll have a think and maybe see if I can reduce the diameter slightly.  I wasn’t sure if the old assoc ones were smaller.

     

    Thanks also for the hobby holidays link - I didn’t realise they were selling online, looks like they’ve got all the other bits I’ve been scratching my head about since Eileen’s went!

     

    Cheers

    Simon

    Are you wanting them for locomotive motion rods? Try 3-129 crankpin washers 0.6mm bore or 3-140 motion pin washers 0.3mm bore.

    • Like 1
  3. Please bear in mind that while a shopkeeper might be able to acknowledge receipt of your order, they might not be able to fulfil it straightway due to other commitments. I would say that a turnaround time of 7-10 days is not unreasonable.

     

    All of the shopkeepers and most everyone who keep the Association going are volunteers. I'm sure you will all hear from Bill in the fairly near future - he's not been in touch to say there are issues.

     

    Tony Simms

    Sales Officer

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  4. On 09/01/2024 at 01:44, Laurie2mil said:

    Most of my own modelling time this year has been spent on the Fiddle Yards...

     

     

     

    I always thought you had a screw loose. Now I know you have! 😆

     

    Seriously, that's one hell of a piece of engineering. Wouldn't it have been simpler and cheaper to move the loft ladder, though? 🙂

    • Agree 1
  5. As already mentioned our own 2FS turnouts are manufactured by British Finescale. I have always found Wayne to be supportive and very prompt in his response times. Plus we get products to the same high standard as his own Finetrax N products. 

     

    I wouldn't want to dissuade the OP from asking questions, but we seem to see this type of thread quite frequently. My simple synopsis is:

     

    Happy with okay running and so-so appearance - stick with Peco etc. 

     

    Would like better running and appearance, but don't particularly want to convert proprietary rolling stock or scratchbuild/kitbuild stock - upgrade to Finetrax N.

     

    Want high quality running and appearance and are prepared to convert stock or scratch/kit build - welcome to 2FS. Tried and test track/wheel standards and multiple options for track construction. 

     

    If you want to start altering existing standards, fine, but you'll be plowing a lonely furrow and it would be a good idea to get an idea how some of the existing systems work before jumping in feet first.

    • Like 4
    • Agree 4
  6. Oh. My. Giddy. Aunt.

     

    I'm not quite sure what I'm doing here, but I'm doing it anyway. I'm sure it will turn out okay in the end. Maybe... 🤣

     

    Thank you to Ant Yeates for the inspiration and Andy Hanson for the DAS!

     

    20231203_083341.jpg.e08831b6da352c844f33399ce5192b65.jpg.aa874d1af5502b4cf8905a31e0d7dec7.jpg

    • Like 15
  7. 2 minutes ago, Smalltrainsgreatpains said:

    I kind of guessed as much.  What would 30kg of nickle silver be in cash I wonder? Perhaps there is a way to collaborate to split costs across  scale interests, as this rail  would closely represent miniature gauge lines in 7mm scale, something I would like to try .

    Maybe a paid up  pre-order shared between the interested parties?

     

    Our last order was c £11,000.00. It's not just the raw material, the production involves multiple draws of the metal to achieve the required profile.

  8. 7 hours ago, CF MRC said:

    We need a Thunderbird on CF. What size replacement wheels (Association number) should we use for the Graham Farish Prototype Deltic, DP1?

     

    Thanks

    Tim

    Tim

     

    Check the gear size - I vaguely recall that the newer Deltic models have 15T gears which would fit with Kevin's observation. While you could use 3-301, the 6mm wheels are undersize being mainly for DMU units. I suppose it depends on what you planning on doing to the loco itself (ride height etc) and whether more prototypical 7mm wheels would be better. If you need 7mm wheels with 15T gears, drop me an email.

     

    Tony

  9. It's time to get some uncoupling magnets installed on Hull Bridge - May might seem a while away, but it will soon pass and the layout will make it's debut in the fairly safe environs of the 2mm Expo at Derby.

     

    The Seep units are proven and robust, but I like to have a couple of spares of this sort of thing when exhibiting. The format of the coil requires soldered connections, so I like to add some screw terminals which will allow for a fairly easy swap out if required. Hopefully not!

     

    I did a batch of six this afternoon and will need a couple more as spares. The screw terminals will be glued to the plasticard base extension once I get some more hot glue rods. The screw hole in the base will allow simple attachment to the layout baseboards.

     

    20231105_1641391.jpg.68d5600f91c9b718362b23578eb5e38a.jpg

     

    The magnets come with a push button switch which, as recently discussed on the VAG, are usually cheap and nasty - you can see how nasty, one came broken!

     

    20231105_1334241.jpg.51baabdff34151a87238574ac430f6f5.jpg

     

    In any event, I'd like to just have one push button which will energise all coils simultaneously, avoiding the need to decide which button to push while shunting. There is no technical detail to speak of in the packaging that comes with the magnets, but a quick poke around with the multimeter indicates just under 1A at 12V. I'll go for a 24V supply which will make the draw 3A over the six units. I'll source a suitable pushbutton, non-latching and nice and robust.

    • Like 3
    • Informative/Useful 2
  10. This is the firm that produce our rail using special dies. Costs have increased dramatically over the last few years. To get anything like a decent price, we had to buy 30kg last time. That's 18km of rail. Approximately. 

    • Like 2
    • Informative/Useful 1
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  11. 22 hours ago, Chris Higgs said:

     

    So by the EP white metal moulds is meant the former Ultima items?  If the moulds are still in good conditions those are excellent quality. I do hope P&D Marsh take up the option to produce them. 

     

    Very good news that the plastic roofs will be made available again.

     

    Chris

     

     

    The issue with the Ultima moulds seems to be the old chestnut that each mould contains lots of different items, often substantially unrelated.

     

    To cast, for example, a batch of say Gresley coach ends, which has just one impression in the mould, you either end up with large quantities of parts that you may or may not need or you're throwing a lot of stuff back into the crucible.

     

    I don't know how Marsh might view that, but it seems like commercial suicide to me.

    • Agree 1
  12. Re crankpins. When the decision was made to move to wheels with 0.75mm crankpin holes (manufacturing issues drilling 0.5mm holes in stainless steel) there were substantially more crankpins (3-126 and 3-127) than remaining stock of Mk5 wheels. We now find ourselves with insufficient crankpins to cover the now much smaller stock of Mk5s.

     

    Have members bought crankpins to stick in their gloat boxes with previously purchased Mk5 wheels for which they didn't have pins? Or do we have a large number of members buying crankpins to use for "other purposes"? I'm afraid I don't know.

     

    I am getting quotes to restock 3-127 but as these will be a relatively small quantity (1,000s rather than 10,000s) don't be surprised when they are quite a bit more expensive than they have previously been. Sorry!

    • Like 1
  13. David Short has indicated that he would like to stand down as Shop 1 Shopkeeper after nine years service. 

     

    If you can give a few hours a week to take on this important role, please get in touch with me via the usual Sales Officer email address. 

     

    Thanks 

    Tony

  14. I think we're almost all amateurs of varying experience, ability and approach.

     

    As Nigel says, methodical working and attention to detail are important. Even with conversions of N gauge commercial items, a measure of care will be needed; it's not just open the box and play.

     

    I guess it's a case of what do you want from your railway modelling? For me it's building and creating; locos, stock, trackwork, buildings, scenery, controls, all with varying levels of success. Often I will redo things as my first (or second!) attempt is not to my satisfaction. I like playing trains too on occasion!

     

    Try the wagon taster kit (available from our website) and see if there is an area group near you to talk to other members. This will give you a good idea whether 2FS is for you.

     

    Good luck!

    • Agree 1
  15. 8 hours ago, Nig H said:

    Hi,

     

    Tony Heywood was asking me about the Association Farish Black 5 chassis kit. He wanted to know how to link the worm to the worm wheel. Also, how are the loco and tender chassis to be linked, and what is the intention regarding motors? Something mounted in the tender on the frame spacers?

     

    Apologies if the answers are already there, sometimes I can't see for looking!

     

    Nigel Hunt

     

    4 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

    Bob Jones is the man to answer these questions. He designed the kit. 

     

    Jim 

     

    Are you talking about the chassis for the Association Kit (1:152) or the replacement chassis for the Farish model (1:148)?

     

    The Association Kit chassis was designed by Bob Jones (as was the rest of the Kit) and has a fold up unit to carry the worm.

     

    The Farish replacement chassis was designed by Chris Higgs and doesn't.

     

    All way too modern for me! 😆

    • Agree 1
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