Yorkshire Square

There's also a wee bag coming your way from south of the border. In the post today...

I use Blender too. It's certainly not a CAD package. As I understand it, it is mainly for 3D gaming developers. However, once you have mastered a few basic techniques it is fairly easy to get going and model digitally (as opposed to draw digitally with CAD). If you want to do something more complex, there are dozens of tutorials online to guide you along. I like it!

Some interesting reading: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/photocurable-resin

Thanks guys, that sort of confirms my thinking. I do my post curing on a windowsill and even on these darkest days the prints harden off without too much bother. I've been using Elegoo black resin and curing 0.02mm layers for 6 seconds without any issues. Despite the colour, it is quite translucent up to around 0.3mm (15 layers). I've also printed some quite large blocks - up to 10mm deep without problems. I guess that if you get the exposure level right at the printing stage, the internal structure isn't critical to some extent. Bear in mind though that increasing the exposure time will lead to bleed around the edges of the print. I can't imagine a scenario where you print a solid block and there is liquid in the middle. Maybe slightly softer layers, but not liquid or gooey. Interestingly I had to have a couple of fillings recently, the first in a while, and these were done in resin. The dentist explained that they were cured using "blue light" and were built up, as Jim says, in layers (just like a printer really). The exposures were typically 20-30 seconds per layer. I'm guessing that they were more than 0.02mm deep per layer!

Surely a solid 25mm cube is printed in say 1250 slices of 0.02mm each. Are you saying that each layer is not sufficiently cured as it is printed? How would making a hollow cube with 1mm walls be any better? There will presumably be totally uncured resin adhered to the inside walls that has no likelihood of seeing UV. Does a breather hole, with potential to wash out most of that uncured resin, suffice?

That's some neat modelling, but I'm not totally convinced by the flock they've used on the embankment...

Well done, Nick. I see you required minimal makeup to assume your role. Judging by the way we go through quiet a number of different products, I'd say the Goblin isn't the only one gobblin' components! Thanks again for helping keep our little emporium stocked.

If you print a part directly onto the build plate you will get "bleed" in the first few layers due to the extra exposure time. Either print the part on raised supports or build a sacrificial skirting into your model. Or both, if necessary.

It appears that BR used Plate wagons to carry anything other than plate...

Would the load not be secured by flat straps?

Oh sheet!

But Bishop's Stortford does. What about Kings Cross/King's Cross? My OCD needs to know!!

You'll notice that the boss still had the final say.

Steve himself is okay.

But it could be "Knight, Collier & Co".

??? Why not?

IMPORTANT - SHOP CLOSURE Please note that SHOP 3 will be closed with immediate effect and for the foreseeable future. We cannot provide any further information at this point, but will keep you updated. Tony Simms - Sales Officer

I'm just glad we don't sell toilet paper...

The "retailer in question" is the Association shop (or one third of it, anyway). As I regularly comment in the Newsletter, which I'm sure you all read very carefully: The best person to ask about availability of products is the Sales Officer (me!). Email me at sales@2mm.org.uk. Shopkeepers are very unlikely to know when items are going to be back in stock - they might know that an item has been reordered, but they will likely not know what the lead time is. I would make them aware if there were problems/delays but otherwise they have other things to do. Please, please, please do not "stock-up" on items just on the off chance that you might use them in the next 12 months. There are currently no significant supplier issues, but we are extremely busy - sales this year are up 30% and are showing no sign of slowing. Some items have gone out of stock (more than I might like) but these are being attended to. Easitrac moldings and kits are due in shop 1 fairly soon; probably a couple of weeks. Thanks!

But this was two years ago Nigel. The problem became apparent shortly before I became Sales Officer and I flagged the issue up in the Newsletter and, I believe, here. I'd say it's more a case of "the gloat box strikes again". At the time, members were urged to check their recent purchases and were offered a corrected set FOC. There was only one batch of incorrect gearsets sold through the shop and in fairly limited quantities. Whilst the situation wasn't resolved with the supplier, it prompted us to start producing our own gears again; no bad thing in my book.

You'll ruin those chassis, putting a big heavy building on them...

Hi Nick and welcome! I suppose the answer to your question depends on your previous experience and what you're proposing to build. If the track is going to be encased in hard surfacing (setts etc) then soldered track without chairs is cheaper and no harder if you have soldering experience. Easitrac is visually better than that, but more expensive if you are going to hide it all. You can have soldered track with chairs, but personally I can't see the point these days. You can mix and match, so solder track with chairs will align vertically with Easitrac and I've used that to have plain Easitrac and soldered pointwork in the past. There will, of course, be a plethora of contradictory opinions coming soon! Tony

Hi Jerry I've sent you a PM. If anybody else is interested in H&BR, I can supply bits and bobs. PM me for details.

In photographic grey

I spent a pleasant few hours putting together three of the revised 2-330 9ft wheelbase chassis. These have amended single side brake gear - you'll notice that the lever guide is inbound of the wheels. All soldering is done and cleaned up and wheels are in. The chassis are for my H&BR covered wagons, these three, in the centre, await buffers and axle boxes before going off to the paint shop.