O-Gauge-Phil

That is one super workshop. You should be as snug as a bug in there, to me it's a perfect size for a layout, not so big it becomes the impossible dream and large enough for operational interest or even just playing trains. I was in the food industry and in the last place I designed I put the sockets on the ceiling. This could be a useful idea for you, as you could have a few blue sockets on the ceiling with a plug trailing lead and a trailing 13 amp socket. This could be moved around at will for the soldering iron etc, without demolishing the signals scenery and so on. It's all looking very nice, best wishes.

MERG is probably your best option, low cost, full function . Snag is you have to build it yourself. The instructions are good, all the parts are laid out for you and if you need help you can go along to a meeting. You probably only want the basic controller then at a later date you can add a booster. You can operate it from a phone or tablet, all for around £150. Bargain. If you are experienced you can build one in under an hour but a novice should allow a day. The controller can be built into your layout , so you just have a laptop supply to plug in. this plug can be mounted on the side of the layout, no additional boxes required. Small, cheap, neat.

I’m not sure if a camera says come in here I have lots of valuables or is a deterrent. We have hd cameras covering all entrances plus some hidden in places where a thef should looking because I’m sure they would be wearing hoodies at the point of entry, all wired back to a nas drive. Also smart water on my trains etc. I have a monitor so someone can see themselves from outside the door. Burgular alarm. I quite fancy moving away from London

All my pictures of old wagons seem to be grey.

I have used a micro gas lamp in the past with good results but I wouldn't recommend it, as when it does go it's instant. You have to keep the flame moving all the time but by using small blobs of low melt solder along a seam you can make the solder go where you want it, also the solder will always follow the heat so it can be manipulated. I think this can be good on a large w/m O gauge loco kit. In the winter I stand the body on a radiator so it gets nice and hot, then you don't have to raise the temperature on what is effectively a big heat sink. I generally use a 60 watt temp controlled iron but this is sometimes not enough so I've a large iron on a controller (a bit like a light dimmer). For someone new to low melt speed is the key - in, out, check it out. Ps. I have melted a hanger before - Ggggrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!

I have just discovered this thread. I was going to buy one from him at Ally Pally but the guy was so rude to everybody, customers and especially his assistant, my wife laid down the law that I MUST buy one from someone else! Glad I did now, and I'm very happy with it.

I believe Slaters have just bought a new super duper printing machine and are re-introducing their PO wagons. They can also do custom work and they told me that they would very much like to recoup some of the huge amount of money spent on it. Phil

Well deserved Dave and Richard, two layouts I’ve been following for some time. I really wanted to see them in the flesh and was so impressed when I did, really something to aspire to. All the best Phil

What a terrific day out. Me and more importantly Mrs O gauge really enjoyed it. One of the best shows we’ve been to. Looks like a lot of people agree with me from the distance that they travel to get there. One chap next to me said it was too far to do in one day so stayed overnight. The three cameos next to each other - Longwood Edge, Midland in Bristol and Newton Heath Works - were marvellous but it really is unfair to mention just a few as the standard was set so high. Leighton Buzzard, what a trick that was to get that there, oh memories of my youth! Talking of tricks, really nice talking to Tricky on Midland in Bristol, Gizmo Rail and some others I follow on rmweb. My favourite bit is when the masses have gone at around four o’clock and it’s a bit like a club night. From the above it would appear that others were there that I would have liked to have said hallo to. I have thought before that it would be so good if we could identify each other because there’s so many good modellers out there, all willing to share their experience on rmweb and I could be standing right next to them. It would be interesting to know if anyone else feels the same. Does anyone have any ideas how this could be done? Sandwich board? Meet under the clock at12? More seriously, a lanyard or a table like the societies have? Lastly I would like to thank the organisation that put on the show, not just the people who go getting the layouts but the ones who mark out the floor, clear up and the ones who get the books to balance. Appreciated by those of us that just turn up and watch.

It’s a really good picture, very useful. Many thanks for your help, Phillip

Brilliant, I had a feeling you would know! I was going to message you as you always seem to know. Guessed as much, I thought it might be for the shunter to hold onto when riding on the running board? That's brilliant, I can finish this off now. Many thanks again Phillip

Hopefully someone out there has bought a Blacksmith Passenger brake van in 4 or 7 mms scale or has some knowledge. I managed to get the etchings for a K2 in 7mms scale. No castings or instructions but I have cobbled something together that I'm happy with. Except the body has five holes on the ends under the six panels, has anyone got any idea of what they are for? I think the roof had two rain strips, has anyone seen a picture of drawing? Many thanks Phillip

That really looks the part. Marvellous. Phillip

I would just like to thank the people responsible for the revised software, they should be very proud of what has been achieved. Many thanks and well done. Phillip

Just as an aside ,I paint the roof, then when dry give it a second coat, I then take a tissue split it apart to form a single p!y. Apply necessary folds to represent the prototype and brush it down with more paint. Remove any excess paint and leave to dry. When dry sand off the excess bits round the edge that overhang. I've done it like this for the last 40 years and they still look OK to me. So far none have lifted. Phillip

I have two timber merchants near me, one is really grumpy the other is really good. Better quality and full sheet for the same price DIY store sells quarter sheet for. Cuts it up for free, as many cuts as you like. Marvellous.

You were asking about the formula, this is:- Volt drop = current x length x factor For 1mm copper it’s 47mV per amp per metre. So if your longest run is 7 metres and your locos draw 500 mA then the volt drop is 0.5 x 7 x 47 = 164 mV. You’ll probably lose about 2 volts across pickups and commutator, therefore 0.75 or 1 mm2 is going to be good. Or if you have something to hand and the price is good and it won’t be mistaken for mains cabling then that’s good, generally the bigger the better. When you’re looking for connectors try to get gold plated, they are meant for low analog voltages, for digital circuits the drop across a connector is not a factor. DCC is slightly different. If you have servos keep your wiring well away from this or cross at 90 degrees. Phil

What a fabulous show the South Hants one was, probably the best I have been to in a long time. It was really nice to meet you and your layout after following your blog for so long. It really is an inspirational piece of modelling and it looks even better in the flesh. Looking forward to the next instalment.

JMRI is excellent. If you haven’t tried it, download it free, it makes reading and writing so easy and intuitive and all you need is a serial interface with whatever controller you decide on. I’ve had really good results from Loksound decoders. Best of luck stick with it, DCC is marvellous. Phillip

I had the same thought, so I went down the dcc route. Two bolts and a couple of plugs and i can operate at the front or at an exhibition it’s off to the back. Would like mechanical linkage but life’s too short.

As a rule of thumb I tend to half lt and then think of it as an oo layout. So think of what you would do with a 2500 x 300, 8 x 1 in feet. Not much space, I’ve a small terminus that’s five meters plus two more for the fiddle yard, if you’re using three link couplings and want some scenery then you can only go four, five in places tracks wide. Tend to go smaller as it always grows, particularly if you don’t want to put a point on a baseboard joint, you’ll probably only get four points on a 1200 baseboard. O gauge is so much fun. Good luck

I’m very pleased Mr Waterman jumped in to save those kits. Mostly to a very good standard but a different business model was definitely required, I’m sure he didn’t do it for the money. Now it looks like they will all be lost forever unless it’s split into manageable groups, as there are probably no savings in scale and can probably survive better as a cottage industry. This is Particularly as the customer base is getting older and smaller. I doubt that the receivers are keen to do that. Some may be willing to pay a thousand pounds for a loco but I suspect most wouldn’t. Allowing for inflation how does this compare to the original price when M.M. Etc first released them? It’s a shame because I really enjoyed building the Malcom Mitchel kits and I don’t really want a plastic resin anything. If anyone gets it let’s hope they can keep it real.

Marvellous

Hi, I’m 7mm, I’ve been using two layers of cork to get the height with contact adhesive so the ballast glue doesn’t soak into the cork and that is not too bad. I think if you want sound deadening you should look to the underside of the baseboard and attach foam or cork, the same way as when you have an empty room and one that has carpet and curtains. Where you have bits to attach you can glue a piece of ply. Hope this helps. It would be nice to hear from anyone else who has tried attaching sound deadening to the underside of the baseboard and their results. Phillip