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Freight Connection

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About Freight Connection

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  1. Some lovely work on this section of your build Grahame. With time limited at the moment, I at least try to drop in here regularly. The castings have added a whole new feel, superb.. And a nice High Street article in the Journal this morning to match. With thanks for all the updates Steve
  2. Hi Graham, I noticed when i first set them on the track they didn't seem to roll as far you would normally expect when you pushed them off. Just had a look at one pair at random and noticed that two axles spin freely as you would expect with any model, the other two aren't as free and stop quickly... The blocks are noticeably closer middle to top on these two axles. I don't envisage a problem on the type of circuit they will eventually run on my layout, but i can fully understand why the increased drag would be giving you problems here. Only a quick look i know, the moulding is very flexible and I don't doubt you won't sort it eventually. And like you say...Beautiful wagons Good to read Ben's reply re the 0.5mm, car carriers not presently in my plans but these twins always appealed, and have been a lovely addition. Cheers - Steve
  3. Yep, we all know how cruel a camera can be.... But that looks spot on Simon, nice work on the legs too. Steve
  4. Good evening to all, Just a few pics to show this weeks efforts.... A slight rework to try and introduce creasing to the edges and sides of the Cardiff Rod Mill Hoods, wagon label also slightly smaller. End fittings not precise I know, but have to stay clear of the Farish wagon as I also want it to carry coils under sheet canvas N Gauge Cardiff Rod Mill SEA ex SPA hoods. Just worked some liquid poly onto the sides with a makeshift plasticard comb and filed curves into the top edge to get rid of the boxy look.. Limited funds in the 80s meant I never got round to getting any class 20s, picked a couple of Poole poor runners up last year to go into RF livery, grey and red added this week These PG / NGS kits are a joy to make, another coat of matt needed. Got some Oxford Land Rovers last year to sit in the OCAs, these can sit in the warwells until I get some flats.. Thanks for looking as always - Steve
  5. Thanks for the post Dave, Re the scrap bits in a short engineers train, if you get the chance take a look at Mudmagnets Workbench on the forum. Page 1 has a really nice pic of some bits and ballast piled into an OCA. The drum and pallets obviously available in N as well. Saw it sometime ago and always thought i'd like something along those lines. Regards - Steve
  6. Lovely work as ever Grahame, What paint or primer did you use for the grey road surface? I've had a scan through and so apologies if i have missed it. I started with white and yellow watercolour pencils on the strength of your book / articles ( I think ) and loved using them, and the result with these pens looks ideal... Looking forward to seeing your repairs and weathering close up as it's something I've never really mastered over the years. Steve
  7. I know what you mean, i looked at so many pics in so many lights. Changed the palette on Paint so many times, and then realised the blue on the stripes was different again. In the end i ignored my own advice and just printed one out. Happened to have the Revell here, didn't want the faff of changing its tone. I got a Halfords green incidentally the other week for some TEAs after advice on here Thanks - Steve
  8. Good evening to all Iv'e just copied this over from a layout thread in the hope that anyone new to this will benefit, of course there are lots of methods..And there may well be very little here for seasoned modellers. It probably sums up the mistakes I've made over the last few years. You can't beat decent commercially available transfers i know but for one offs these are ideal... Lorry sides, shopfront signs etc ( Stickers also an option ) Do all your trials & fits in grey scale / low quality.... Saves your ink Do your text and art in the largest res you can manage, then shrink them down at the end My printer floods transfer paper on fine... I printed these in normal / standard When you seal in the finished transfers with lacquer, just mist the first coat on. Otherwise you'll run the colours. I use Halfords ( Or any I suppose) acrylic... You can get 2-3 light coats on quickly. Don't make your 2nd and or 3rd coats too heavy. The transfer below was placed onto water, you can see where the water has crept in at the edge. Yes I sealed it, but then I had to cut it out. Otherwise I may have struggled to get it off the backing... The top went as well and has been re airbrushed ( But it's a faff ) Therefore.... Place your transfer face down onto tissue, ' Paint ' a small amount of water onto the rear, and push it towards the edge, don't flood it over. Leave it for a minute or two and your good to go. Don't flex it, just make sure that gently between your thumb & forefinger that it wants to move. Any creasing will leave a big white line... Also, flooding the face of these immediately leaves the colours looking less vibrant. I use a film of Decalfix underneath ( I know some don't get on with it ) But it does pull it all down tight. Just two pics to show the point, subject model / era unimportant... Transfer is complete hood side, rest is paint This one was moistened only on the back Thanks for looking, any extra advice always gratefully received Steve
  9. Good evening to all, Just a note to mention the pitfalls of printing / fitting your own waterslides, and a few other pics left over from the build. It probably sums up the mistakes I've made over the last few years, and is probably more suited to anyone starting out with these. You can't beat decent commercially available transfers, but for one offs these are ideal... Lorry sides, shopfront signs etc Do all your trials & fits in grey scale / low quality.... Saves your ink Do your text and art in the largest res you can manage, then shrink them down at the end My printer floods transfer paper on fine... I printed these in normal / standard When you seal in the finished transfers with lacquer, just mist the first coat on. Otherwise you'll run the colours. I use Halfords ( Or any I suppose) acrylic... You can get 2-3 light coats on quickly. Don't make your 2nd and or 3rd coats too heavy. The transfer below was placed onto water, you can see where the water has crept in at the edge. Yes you sealed it, but you have to cut them out afterwards, otherwise you may struggle to get them off the backing... The top went as well and has been re airbrushed ( But it's a faff ) Therefore.... Place your transfer face down onto tissue, ' Paint ' a small amount of water onto the rear, and push it towards the edge, don't flood it over. Leave it for a minute or two and your good to go. Don't flex it, just make sure that gently between your thumb & forefinger that it wants to move. Any creasing will leave a big white line... Also, flooding the face of these immediately leaves the colours looking less vibrant. I use a film of Decalfix underneath ( I know some don't get on with it ) But it does pull it all down tight Hopefully there's something above to get somebody started... A few pics remaining from yesterdays post... I ditched the side strips after this one, made it look too much like a metal box I thought, I also thought this hood was too high, 9mm or just under seems better. Tissue paper top then fitted with PVA, kept just shy of the edge to avoid flicking up. Attempts at making the cover looked creased, not the best i know ( A cast resin version would be ideal here) Thanks as always, for looking Steve
  10. Phil I'll put the rest of the pics up tomorrow night including the full size for the decals Some pics as well to show the pitfalls with home decals / bleeding at the edges etc Paint colour / MS Paint settings etc Steve
  11. Thank you Phil... I seem to be in an all things metal mode lately... Couldn't remember where i'd seen some Blackadders and then just realised it was on your thread. Going to pick a couple up and carry on the ASW theme for a bit. Regards - Steve
  12. Good Afternoon to all, I finally got a chance to put some hoods together this week to drop into the Farish SPA wagons. Did them in 40 thou plasticard and knocked up some home made transfers. I've seen 00 and Z versions of these hoods around, cast resin obviously suits the creases required, and so these are bit cheap and cheerful. But they do the job. These are the wagons pictured at Tinsley ( With thanks to Kev Smith ) kevsmithai on Youtube for permission to reproduce. He also incidentally runs the Z versions. Tons of 37 & 47 pics on his channel from this era. After a crude mock up some time ago I changed to this sort of roof. There is a close up pic on RMweb of the tops of these and that's why i went for this arrangement of the supports. I just filed a gentle apex at the ends to match a real one and suggest the shape rather than file too much off in the middle. Haven't modelled any of the end fixings. Sticky paper under tissue and PVA. Close up the lack of side creases etc can make them look a bit boxy, but settled on this. Didn't want the transfers on tissue paper. But with PVA and paint it is quite a stable base, so will try with the next batch. Reasonably happy with the hood height, used mag pics to judge against a 37. The rail express formation pics enlarged were also a good guide. The crude close up shot of the home made decals.. Of course nothing beats commercially available decals, and sliding these on feels more like hanging 1200 grade lining paper. The smaller shot shows the limitations of a standard home printer, but bear in mind this one is only around 2mm high. A bed of decalfix pulling the big ones down really tight. Knocked them up in MS Paint.. Arial Unicode MS seemed a reasonable match, had to lop the top off the sloping t. Did them at 90 and reduced them down to keep the defintion. Matched the paint roughly to the ink on the decals, but knew the angles and matt varnish would hide the difference. Took the decal up to just shy of the edge to avoid it being flicked back, and to help hide the slight colour difference. NGS / PG Scimitars happened to be on the table at the time of the pic I can't see myself altering the Farish data panels to suit as I want to use some of the coils provided to lie under tarps that don't quite fit... And so have a choice of loads... Have spent far too much time watching vids of steel traffic in and around Cardiff and Newport. I don't even know what county my layout is set in, and so if my traffic is way off route I wouldn't know. Just nice to finish these reasonably quickly. Trying hard not to leave too many little projects half done. ( Oops, and the er layout itself ) Thanks for looking as always - Steve
  13. Some really good pics there Mark, Platform detail on them all is so good, but the side on view of the DMUs with the idea for the PA stood out for me. Steve
  14. Good afternoon to all, Some time off between jobs is letting me get some work done on the station end.... Platforms fitted, leaving in plain white card for now until mast positions etc all dug out... Glue gun mock up of what will hide the curves Ballast still plain at the moment, oil stains / grime to be added. A compromise in hiding enough of the curve and leaving a reasonable amount of platform visible. Also there was quite a lot of point work to fit on the board. The platform gap where the 150 is sitting is hidden from the normal viewing position anyway A crude mock up, undecided on a clad roof ( Similar to how Leeds used to be), or the end section of a 00 Peco roof. I'm trying to give the impression of the station going straight on into the back scene. Have started to weather the POA / SSAs. I did try a Farish chassis (not pictured),to bring the suspension closer to the originals but wasn't really viable to cut so many donor wagons up. Thanks as always for looking Regards - Steve
  15. Nice update Nigel You can get a realistic road surface by spraying Halfords grey primer onto a well prepared surface, and then mist some matt black sideways across the top and let it fall on... Fair bit of masking required if the roadbed is already down I know, don't overdo the black, road will still look mid to dark grey. Stencil and or watercolor pencil white / yellow lines, if stencilling use a virtually dry brush so as not to flood. A test piece is probably best to see if your happy with the results. Picked it up from books and mags, I cut a fine stencil for the centre lines and used the scalescenes downloads to make stencils for the larger junction arrows... Other methods available, keep up the good work... Regards - Steve
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