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Vecchio

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  • Location
    Newport Pagnell
  • Interests
    Modeling in general, not only model trains. This helps if it comes to motorising things with RC servos. For me the function is important, I love DCC and gadgets like megapoints controller.

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  1. Martin, you are a gold member. So you don't see the annoying pop up.
  2. Like the uncoupling. Is it on board or a magnet in the track?
  3. Just to come back to the old subject of tool storage - I must have been pretty bored recently, as I made a new box for my drill bits. And of course it fits into the drawer below the mill/drill. 20210725_194946 (2) And now in the drawer... 20210725_202342 (2)
  4. We will see. Watford cancelled for this year but I didn't hear anything about next year. One thing I can say is that 2023 I will be in our own club exhibition again, which is in Milton Keynes, so not too far away I suppose.
  5. Looking forward to some photos of DMU 156's overhead line. 0.5mm is challenging. Especially when it is a show layout. I am struggling to keep my 0.7mm system in good order.
  6. It is soon time to re-open the club so I was there yesterday evening to clean up Frimingham. This was a straight forward job, just going over the track with 800 grain abrasive paper and hoovering the dust away. And of course a test run of my new loco. And - it also gave me the possibility to make some pictures of the station. 20210514_201623 20210514_201651 20210514_201732
  7. If you just do one pcb I suggest to use an etch resistant felt tip. There are also rub on transfers for prototyping, very useful if it comes to IC sockets or connector sockets, as you will get the spaces between holes right. Look for SENO or Letraset PCB transfers. They also make transfers for straight lines in different thicknesses. Very useful as it gets much neater than with a felt tip. Before going on the copper surface it is important to have that as clean and fat free as possible. A rub with kitchen abrasive powder like VIM will do the trick. Then try not to touch it much with your fingers when you do the transfers or the felt tip lines. Having your PCB in the etch bath keep moving it with a wooden tool like a party stick and check the progress. If left too long in the liquid it will go under the transfers. Just one - not too good - example 20170304_202045 in the end it does the job. 20170304_203159 one made with SENO transfers 20170304_192345 and ready for using. 20170304_200325 Where did they go into? old Lima locos for a light upgrade 20170305_162735
  8. The relay arrived - and it is really small and expensive. (Farnell sits in Belgium - 9.50 or so handling charge...) 20210504_201911 All wired up and in we go 20210504_211157 And now comes the surprise. It doesn't work. I checked the decoder function output - works without a problem and responds to button F12 as described in the decoder manual. I checked the relay, it switched nicely with a 9V battery. I also have the polarity correct as this is a coil which is polarity sensitive. The only possible explanation I have is that we are too close to the speakers, which have pretty strong magnets. The distance between speakers and the relay may be not more than 1 cm (The relay is above the engines internal PCB, the speakers are glued in below). A solution would be to move the relay further away - for instance close to the cab. But then we are close to the motor, again a magnet. For the moment I give up. The lights are working on both sides now, kind of constant light engine.
  9. After some disturbance by the 0-gauge loco upgrade I am back to Donnersbachkogel. As I need access to the shed I made magnets on the lightbar and put 2 6mm round iron bar pieces on the roof. The have a slit cut in and they are glued to the spars. The magnets are pretty strong, I have to be careful when removing the roof not to ripp the complete shed off the ground... 20210501_165732 The whole shed is screwed to the baseboard to allow mainenance shoud this be necessary. I tried to hide the screws so the visitor doesn't spot them. 20210503_165241 The balast is still wet, and only when it is completely dry I will cut the rail at the baseboard connection. So far I am quite happy with my progress. 20210503_165149 20210503_165222 Next I will look at the doors and at the light connection. I also noticed that there are 2 problems on the layout - the station lights do not work and there is a dead zone on one of the points. So you get never bored....
  10. Not many news today. The day was dedicated to DIY and tailor's work. My mum was a tailor and my grandfather was a sewing machine mechanic, so I am quite fit with a sewing machine, and from time to time I am asked for repairs etc. So I spent more than half a day with shortening 4 curtains and taking in 2 trousers.... Looking at the function keys of the loco I found a free one (Function 2) for lights, operated by F12. So the idea is to use directional headlights in the front and switchable directional lights on the rear. So I can switch the rear lights off in case a train is coupled. I can use the free light switch to disconnect the plus (blue) via a miniature relay. This means I can run light engine with lights on both sides and switch the rear off when there is a train coupled. It will not work if the train is coupled to the front of the engeine, but never mind, better than nothing. I ordered a super small relay which should do the job and which is small enough to fit into the boiler above the chip. More when it arrives.
  11. I like the little Liliput draisine you have in your station. The Austrians also call it "postbox" (Postboxes are yellow in Austria). I purchased a basic version some years ago and upgraded it to sound and stay alive. The soundfile was free on the zimo website. (you need an MXULFA to load sounds yourself) The interesting thing about the sound is that the original uses a standard lorry engine and gearbox. Means it shifts why accelerating. Works aboslutely great after the changes! If you are interested find some material here. The new connector making life difficult is the next 18 by the way...
  12. The decoder arrived the following day but I was busy for the rest of the week. The hobby needs also to be financed... So the job is now to prepare the connections for the light. I soldered the wires to the Dapol board which takes the decoder. Even it looks small, it is comfortable and large in comparison to a next 18 connector... 20210501_162258 The decoder can now be connected 20210501_165505 There is enough space below the decoder to add 2x1000uF capacitors. There would be more space next to the motor, but then even more wires need to be "tamed". 2000uF should be enough, the loco is heavy and will not need a lot of help. 20210501_184538 The rear lamp goes into position 20210501_165636 and the front lamp 20210501_184653 I went for a centre top position (passenger train). Finally - after making the leads for the rear lamp longer - the whole thing goes together again. 20210501_195054 And this is where I stop for today. No - not really, there is now also a crew. We have a fireman 20210501_195228 and a driver 20210501_195244 As this is an ex GWR loco the driver stands on the right hand side, which is also where the regulator and the reverser are on this loco.
  13. Problem with the garden is that the floor is not even as in a showroom (which is in many cases a gym with a very smooth floor). Even if I put my layout up in the garage I can see that the garage floor is not really flat. Do you have problems at the board connections?
  14. And a little bit further. The surgery has been done, drilled 2.0mm almost through after removing the lens, drilled 2.5mm from the bottom until the holes meet. Lens glued back in, made some electrical insulation on the rear of the LEDs by a drop of epoxy glue, after this was set I glued the LEDs into the bottom hole and made a short test to see if the positioning is right. 20210427_190922 last step: (of course after the glue has properly set) was painting. And I have to say the paint job wasn't great, this is what you see under magnification of the photo... 20210427_204056 (2) Enough for today. Next job is putting the lights into the loco, but I would like to do that only after the decoder has arrived. Anyway, I can paint the crew in the meantime...
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