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  • Location
    Newport Pagnell
  • Interests
    Modeling in general, not only model trains. This helps if it comes to motorising things with RC servos. For me the function is important, I love DCC and gadgets like megapoints controller.

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  1. If you just do one pcb I suggest to use an etch resistant felt tip. There are also rub on transfers for prototyping, very useful if it comes to IC sockets or connector sockets, as you will get the spaces between holes right. Look for SENO or Letraset PCB transfers. They also make transfers for straight lines in different thicknesses. Very useful as it gets much neater than with a felt tip. Before going on the copper surface it is important to have that as clean and fat free as possible. A rub with kitchen abrasive powder like VIM will do the trick. Then try not to touch it much wit
  2. The relay arrived - and it is really small and expensive. (Farnell sits in Belgium - 9.50 or so handling charge...) 20210504_201911 All wired up and in we go 20210504_211157 And now comes the surprise. It doesn't work. I checked the decoder function output - works without a problem and responds to button F12 as described in the decoder manual. I checked the relay, it switched nicely with a 9V battery. I also have the polarity correct as this is a coil which is polarity sensitive. The only possible explanation I have is that we are too close to the speakers, wh
  3. After some disturbance by the 0-gauge loco upgrade I am back to Donnersbachkogel. As I need access to the shed I made magnets on the lightbar and put 2 6mm round iron bar pieces on the roof. The have a slit cut in and they are glued to the spars. The magnets are pretty strong, I have to be careful when removing the roof not to ripp the complete shed off the ground... 20210501_165732 The whole shed is screwed to the baseboard to allow mainenance shoud this be necessary. I tried to hide the screws so the visitor doesn't spot them. 20210503_165241 The balast is s
  4. Not many news today. The day was dedicated to DIY and tailor's work. My mum was a tailor and my grandfather was a sewing machine mechanic, so I am quite fit with a sewing machine, and from time to time I am asked for repairs etc. So I spent more than half a day with shortening 4 curtains and taking in 2 trousers.... Looking at the function keys of the loco I found a free one (Function 2) for lights, operated by F12. So the idea is to use directional headlights in the front and switchable directional lights on the rear. So I can switch the rear lights off in case a train is coupled.
  5. I like the little Liliput draisine you have in your station. The Austrians also call it "postbox" (Postboxes are yellow in Austria). I purchased a basic version some years ago and upgraded it to sound and stay alive. The soundfile was free on the zimo website. (you need an MXULFA to load sounds yourself) The interesting thing about the sound is that the original uses a standard lorry engine and gearbox. Means it shifts why accelerating. Works aboslutely great after the changes! If you are interested find some material here. The new connector making life difficult is the next 18 by the way...
  6. The decoder arrived the following day but I was busy for the rest of the week. The hobby needs also to be financed... So the job is now to prepare the connections for the light. I soldered the wires to the Dapol board which takes the decoder. Even it looks small, it is comfortable and large in comparison to a next 18 connector... 20210501_162258 The decoder can now be connected 20210501_165505 There is enough space below the decoder to add 2x1000uF capacitors. There would be more space next to the motor, but then even more wires need to
  7. Problem with the garden is that the floor is not even as in a showroom (which is in many cases a gym with a very smooth floor). Even if I put my layout up in the garage I can see that the garage floor is not really flat. Do you have problems at the board connections?
  8. And a little bit further. The surgery has been done, drilled 2.0mm almost through after removing the lens, drilled 2.5mm from the bottom until the holes meet. Lens glued back in, made some electrical insulation on the rear of the LEDs by a drop of epoxy glue, after this was set I glued the LEDs into the bottom hole and made a short test to see if the positioning is right. 20210427_190922 last step: (of course after the glue has properly set) was painting. And I have to say the paint job wasn't great, this is what you see under magnification of the photo... 2
  9. Lucky me, I found these in my not very organised drawer... 20210427_154421 Even I made a quick drawing of a brass version and even found useable material, it will be better to use the ready made ones. They are white metal, painted without removing the flush first. (Why do people do that?) But even with removing the flush and re-painting I am faster than making it from scratch. It will need a little surgery, taking off the lens, and drilling holes for the LED and the cable.
  10. Well - more to come - this was a long time ago. Almost a year. In the meantime I finished the station, I cannot believe that I didn't take a single photo. I must have deleted them. And I make a mistake - The building is in the club room. So next photo 17th of May 2021... Hattons recently had a pre-owned loco I was interested in, and so another piece of rolling stock will be added to Frimingham. Its a Dapol 58xx, and when it arrived I could see that this loco never run and is in absolute mint conditions. Well it will run in the future... 5819_1 The
  11. After some break serious work has started in Donnersbachkogel. One of the buffer stops of the narrow gauge line has been removed. 20210425_213003 This will be the little extension for the new loco shed. 20210425_213032
  12. My best experience is with the Roco universal couplings. Find here a little video attached. This is a Krois coupling, but very similar to the Roco. The coupling on the wagon is Roco universal. I have the small shunter in the OBB version, it works practially always with the universal coupling. By the way on the video you see I have a coupling waltz programmed. Especially with a longer train a must, otherwise the pull of the train will prevent the coupling from opening.
  13. You better work in your workshop! I enjoy lovely temperatures and no need to take out the old gas heater (who is bad for all metal surfaces as it produces a lot of humidity...) Spring cleaning can be done whenever you feel like it...
  14. Will see if it fits on our club layout - means access to it only on the 12th of April...
  15. Looks interresting Jakub. Could you provide the measurements from the middle of the track (or the middle of the doors) to the end of the canopy and to the end of the wall on the other side? I am sure this is something more people want to know, so I suppose this info should also be given on the website.
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