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  • Location
    Newport Pagnell
  • Interests
    Modeling in general, not only model trains. This helps if it comes to motorising things with RC servos. For me the function is important, I love DCC and gadgets like megapoints controller.

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  1. I use a cheap Huawei 10" MediaPad which I have purchased only for the Z21 control. Display is big enough for an old guy. It works perfect and is so far very good with the battery power. Does almost a 12 hour day (wireless controllers are not wireless any more if they constantly hang on a usb power connection....). Anyway. as a show backup I have a 2m USB cable...
  2. can you draw the circuit you built? Hard to see it from the vero board.
  3. Looking at aeroplanes - I started building the Fieseler Storch but after some hickup I decided to finish my Tucano first. I started the Tucano in 2013, it was unfinished in my workshop for a long time as I was concentrating on Donnersbachkogel. But during lockdown I thought it needs to be finished. The Tucano is a plan build, but I purchased a decal set. It was the trainer for RAF jet pilots for many years (even it is not a jet plane - well sort of - turboprop). Pretty British. Shorts Tucano (In licence from Brazilian Embraer) in 2012 jubilee livery. DSC_1242 some cab detail DSC_1243 and from below... DSC_1250 by Gerhard Novak, on Flickr Now also the landing gear is finished, I am just waiting for a calm day. And here the Storch: next one on my aeroplane list. Scale 1:10 20200621_211132
  4. Track weathering shouldn't be such a big deal. I like airbrush painting and did even do a course (teaching) how to do it in our local railway club. Speaking about HS2 - I think we need this project. OK, I am not sitting on the track with my property, but the UK is behind most of the European countries if it comes to high speed connections. Ok, people may say - this guy is foreign, but no fear, brexit will not sweep me out. I am interested into the development of my host country and I will enjoy my pension here (hope the other 2 European countries I have worked in are paying as well....). Go on with your layout, I am enjoying it (and so are others, I hope) Vecchio
  5. Nice stuff. I like it as it is a bit different. We have also future in this country and not only the past. I suppose with the wind deflectors the bridge will be outstanding. Also work around the tunnel mouth is looking great. Also I am not too far from Little Brickhill, but I have read what you were writing in your first post. These days a high speed rail project is a nightmare with the NIMBY culture, if you are not based in a country like China it is almost impossible...
  6. I sometimes have the masts installed before the scenery - especially if they are of the screw-in type. You need access from below, which isn't always possible on ramps after the scenery is done.
  7. Did you use the uncoupling feature of the Kadees? I think this is one of their big advantages. There are of course also continental systems which are less visible (not to say less ugly) as the tension couplers. Depends on the age of your stock - where you have NEM pockets a conversion is easy. Where not you need some engineering which shouldn't be a problem if I look up your thread...
  8. Paul said: Enamel works ok on the wires - By the way - Humbrol 91 is an enamel paint, still made problems... I even bought a new tin, result unchanged....
  9. Hi, thanks for your comment. Always good if I can entertain somebody. Painting the overhead line is not really a satisfying job - I have used Humbrol 91 - black-green matt. Even all overhead wires are washed (as I want to get flux off) the paint doesn't grip, in some places it pulls back and forms little drops (too much surface tension or not enough adhesion on the metal). So I suppose an etch primer (rattle can, for instance from Halfords) would be better. Have not tried it, but I probably will. Something like dark grey or black will do. Problem with the etch primer is you have to spray the OHL before you install it, soldering may be a problem. Just one hint: should you apply paint to the ready installed overhead line you need to cover the area below as there will always be some spray from your brush. How do I know? Best looking is a brass blackening liquid (it doesn't add to the diameter as it is just an oxide layer), I use Birchwood Casey Brass Black. But the application is a pain. Manufacturers recommendation is to use cotton swabs. You need several coats until it goes as dark as you like it. Also: the soldered areas will not be black. I use the blackening liquid with very good results for etched signal kits (see Frimingham) or also for small parts like the insulators of the pantograph further up this thread.
  10. Finally all is in place. Now I need the soundfile 20200605_190425 And after that I need to change a few CVs to make the couplings work and also the servos. I counted them - 26 I have changed.... needed also to change some sounds around as I want the coupling sound on F1 and F2 which are the function keys for the electromagnetic couplings. The servo ones are a pain, I used my old Lenz LZV100, which is fine, but if you have a servo connected you cannot program... So I am happy I made the connectors. Took me a day to play around with all parameters and some trial and error until all was working. The final result: (click into the photo to go to the video) 20200607_134903 Now this loco goes into its box for a while...
  11. Feel like a bad boy now. Used Greco-Pirelli for years and years to travel home from work and didn't do any photos... Now you have 3 guesses for which company I worked.... Well what can I offer? Milano Centrale 2006 - well - this is not Italian but was a frequent guest over here. The Siemens Dispolok Re 484 in Cargo livery IMGP0073 Usmate-Carnate ALle 582 DSC04985 Tarvisio - Boscoverde D245 waiting for a client. IMGP4111 The client(s) are running into the station with panto already down IMGP4123 IMGP4111 E 402-027 is already waiting to drive the train into Italy IMGP4118 The 2 Austrian bulls are pushed back into the world of 15kV 16 2/3 Hz IMGP4135 Enough high jacking of this thread. I loved working in Italy
  12. @A4CML A few month have passed and I gave myself a kick to go on with the X625. First you need a pointy soldering iron... The tip is already a bit used (parts oxidised away) so I allowed myself to shape it a bit further with a file. 20200531_155317 As wire I used 0.08mm enamelled wire from a relay coil. With a visor, lots of light and patience it was possible to solder the wires to the next 18 socket. I am sorry I didn't make a picture but I am happy all is together again and working... So you see here just the wires for the stay alive and the speakers coming out. 20200531_155002 for the stay alive I made a capacitor bank from 150uF tantalum capacitors - gives 750uF - enough for the tiny motor. I painted the capacitor bank so it "hides" in the cab. The speaker is glued to the roof, the roof itself functions as part of the resonance box. Also a driver torso was glued on, he sits in the middle, where the gearbox of the motor is. Must have been rather loud in this trolley, practically sitting on a lorry diesel. Even after stay alive and speaker you can still see through the model. 20200531_162407 20200531_162501 and finally a little video (click on the photo to get there) 20200531_164052
  13. This will kill the edges... There was a time Glenfiddich was sold in very useful metal boxes - I kept several and one is my milling cutters storage.... So I bought the single malt just for the boxes 20200530_110357
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