4003

Regarding quad drives for MUs and such... You're right, i overlooked that, for these, a ratio somewhere between 15:1 to maybe 40:1 is really all i would want. Your worm drives are so efficient, with those coreless motors there is enough power and slow speed controllability, that they can be run at very low voltages most of the time, making for really quiet smooth drives. Oh, and thanks for that ultra quick turnaround. 8 days between order and package-pulled-out-of-the-mailbox is stunning. (I'm in the US). C,-w

Not really, the only bad thing here is that particular implementation of worm drive. First the diameter of the worm. The worm rubs with a surface speed proportional to 3 times the diameter against the gear teeth, and with those fat worm teeth you risk contact on both sides of the gear tooth (which is not cut for worm drive to boot!) unless you keep it sloppy. And i don't remember those worms having a nice polished surface. Anybody remembering "running in" loco drives? In the hope the gear might polish the worm? Anyway, with the motor shaft the fastest piece in the drive train, this worm maximizes friction. You need to keep worms as thin as possible and as slippery as possible, with matching, mating gears . I'm confident you can connect any quality worm drive at any ratio to this n20 successfully. Should there ever be a need. Sorry,-w

Definitely good news! But one question... Any chance you have a planner-style profile drawing or so for the quad drives? I'm trying to find out if one would fit that MU I'm currently working on..... Thank you so much! Best wishes! C,-w

Just stumbling over this.... What an impressive build... That kit has been sitting on my stack for a long while, with lots of "?"s attached - especially around the frames and the cradle.... Now with the valve gear parts on order, and seeing your work, that makes me want to get going on it. Again. Finally. But, may I ask you a question, where did you source those drawings showing through in so many photos? All the best, C,-wolfgang

Backwoods is alive and well.... Or isn't???? That kato tram chassis can be extended with longer axles with some care...

It is, the article about that 7mm RC auto crane in the last MRJ was a thread here quite a while ago. I'm sure there's more RMweb to MRJ conversions around...

That's how I do it. cover in low odour paint stripper (have no back yard or similar) in a closed aluminum meatloaf baking container over night. Lifts all the paint, and dissolves most of the glues. Scrub off and wash in cold water. Then in to simmering water if needed. What's still together, then, separate mechanically / soldering iron if its not a good joint to begin with. Thick superglue can be pulled off or scraped. Acetone I use only sparingly for cleaning up before painting. Those fumes get me bad headaches. It's a little different every time. With a little care and common sense what needs go apart eventually comes apart.

Exactly, which is where the elegance of the illusion drive comes to its own. Correct size and shape of the fly crank is essential on a loco like this.

Having built several crank driven locos, this is less about the quartering, but rather about the crank throw. With wheels and drive-crank being produced by different manufacturers, there will be a slight difference in radius. Bad running is the result. On the other side, if you drill the crank pin holes all in the same jig for wheels and Jack shaft, you can drive from the Jack shaft, like the real thing. Yes, looking truly forward to this one. C,-w

definitely good news. I hope it'll be available for across the pond. And thanks for sharing the email. Used it to enquire about that one Mitchell engine i always wanted, but could neither afford nor build properly when it came out.... keeping the ears crossed, C,-w

nothing to get over, just sharing an experience, thats all. Things may look differently at times from the far side of the pond, I guess. Glad, though, he's doing well.

I wish. Tried to contact him about them many times over the last years through different means. Not a single beep of response in any way. sorry,-w

Oh, and forgot, at least one of the sprues seems to pertain to the 1361,,, so this may also not be too far out....

It is real! CSP is alive and kicking and back on track! Today the package arrived with the bits of GWR 1331, practically all castings very nicely done in lost wax. Big relief, and happiness. I'm glad that this beautiful range of work did not go down the drain like so many others (Blacksmith, Mitchell, etc...) C,-w

Not to forget. The digital camera was invented at kodak. Irony of life,-w