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  1. Great Central is often quoted as being green for First class and brown for Third, though I can't remember the source for that. My own choice of First-blue was purely on a whim. Third-brown was chosen through looking at my dad's coaches. The white panels question is down to a couple of drawings in Jenkinsons tome "British Railway Carriages of the 20th Century" volume 1, figure 33 on page 67, and figure 44 on page 168. They do both refer to the Luggage Composite, and assuming you have the book will require a magnifying glass to view the details.
  2. Cruel close-ups using my phones camera to show the visible interior of my all First. Corridor side is painted Humbrol 63 (sand), First class seats are painted Humbrol 25 (matt mid French blue from memory). According to Jenkinson, the First class compartments had white cloth on the partitions above the seats - I've continued this colour to the pillars (just left plastic white) - while the outer side had mahogany-inlayed panelling (leaving that as bare brass).
  3. Yes, the basic interior is 7mm strip along the bottom and bench ends, with 3mm (First class) and 2mm (Third class) strips for the internal window pillars, topped off with 1.5mm 'L' angle. I did cheat with the faux-BTK, with that having the First class spacing in the compartments, those Thirds actually have the thicker pillars. Did you get to the bottom of why certain ones were derailing?
  4. Hi Richard, hope you don't mind my sharing the progress with my own interiors. I started with measuring and cutting seating strips for each of the compartments (15 in total for my own 4 coaches), and then working out how they'll fit within the coach. Each 'bench' is 20mm wide, which allows for a corridor width of 10mm (roughly, as at least one of the interiors is narrower than it should be for some reason). A 7mm wide strip (cut to length appropriate to the individual coach) is glued to positon at one end 'bench', and the rest of the seating installed. Looking forward to seeing
  5. Having had a bit of fun with the different sized compartment pillars, I thought that I'd show off the built interior of the Luggage Composite, as well as some other works I've carried out on it. Picture 1 - Overall shot of the interior (2 First class compartments on the left, 3 Third class on the right). Picture 2 - close-up of the luggage space (as laid out in the Jenkinson book). Picture 3 - close-up of the Ladies toilet (again as according to Jenkinson). No glass yet as I need about eighteen more etched 'glass' panels, for this, the proper Brake Third, First Class Dining Sal
  6. Interiors. Why do we go to the trouble of putting them in? Is it more hassle than it's worth? Don't know, as I've been grafting some passenger spaces into my Parkers, and inhaling lots of poly cement fumes. First picture - installed interiors for the (top to bottom) Brake First, Corridor First, faux-Brake Third. These were straightforward enough to put in (even after fitting the supports for the roofs). Second picture - the (dreaded) Luggage Composite. Nothing on this has been simple, and the interior has me questioning my sanity. The pillars in the First class compartme
  7. Small update for today. Interiors - ex-Ratio seating strips in the process of being sorted out for the compartments, 13 left to sort out after the BFK, for now; toilet compartments cut out, along with the luggage divider. Roofs - single coat of Humbrol 27 slate grey applied to the four of them; not done the rain strips yet, but they'll require some thinking about with them curving around the shoulders. Underframes - single coat of coal black (Humbrol 85) applied to the dynamos, battery boxes and brake cylinders. Last shot shows just what can be seen through the corridor windows
  8. I've used Glue n Glaze for my windows, though any thick PVA glue should work just as well. I've avoided using superglue for windows for a while now, as I got fed up trying to rescue them after the frosting got hold.
  9. Hi Richard, I thought that I might share my own take on the corridor connection issue. I used fridge magnet strips to hold the bellows in place.
  10. Howdy folks. Todays extract from my mad scheme with the Parkers sees me showing off with a little bit of magnetism. I had a plan to originally hold down each roof with a couple of ceramic magnets attached to cross-pieces (aimed at keeping the bodies from deforming each time they are picked up) and lengths of paperclip glued to the underside of the balsa plugs. INSERT 'FAMILY FORTUNES' WRONG ANSWER SOUND HERE. Turns out the little things are not strong enough to pull the skin off of a rice pudding, and the roofs had started to warp with the warm weather. Next theory - use stronger magnet
  11. Day off from work, and I felt the urge to detail my bogies (not the green ones). 0.5mm microstrip and footboards left over from the 10ft bogies (might not be able to actually see them), cut and stuck to the brake end bogies. Edit :- photos taken of the brass bogies, since the footboard shows up better than against the black plastic.
  12. Done a little more perusing of blown up photos from Mr Banks' collection, in particular one showing 11B at the head of a 6-coach train. My educated guess is that the crests on the compartment side go on the plain panels between the doors - the corridor first only has two on that side (going off the smudges on the B&W photo), but it is hard to tell as it is the fourth coach back.
  13. Hi Richard, just been looking at Google for "GCR Parker coaches" images and stumbled on pictures from the Steve Banks collection. One image that only helps for the corridor side is of a 4-coach train with a 11A at the head, BTK-TK-FK-BFK. It shows the positioning of the crests. Blowing the image up, I can spot the running numbers above the crests, what appears to be the company name in the long panel below the large windows. I've taken the liberty of slotting the image in below for you to blow up on your computer so you can see what I mean.
  14. One roof sorted out, provisionally. Measuring up both brakes, I need to custom fit each one as expected. Balsa base, cartridge paper topping, 1.5mm angle on sides to represent the guttering. Whole ensemble to be held down with a magnet in the middle of the roof underside to close up most of the gaps.
  15. How old are the Pressfix transfers. Certainly, whenever I've watched my dad doing them (and apart from one odd sheet in my own use) the transfer itself is usually printed on a thin sheet, that will lift away from the main backing paper - a sharp knife inserted between the carrier and the backer is all I tend to use. A headtorch (in my own case attached to a magnifier) is usually enough to allow some degree of accurate placing - light shines through the paper, showing the silhouette of the transfer for placing.
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