calvin Streeting

can you pop a photo of said tunrount (from above) in error posistion.. just in case we can see the issue and thus help

yep i agree on that .. thats why i am trying to make what i am to retro fit into Hornby stock that and i have a load of trains etc i dont want to f with

Dam.. there are a few more places. As pulling up a turnout is a git. Down the side of tie bar. Especially near the spring. Also do the blades turn properly or just bend as I once glued the pivot by accident

intresting ping some pics when you can.. i upload video to youtube and share it here... there are SOOOO many options for connecting trains / wagons and what to control etc... I looked at servos but would meen i would need to control them. and that ment more stuff in very limited loco but note each to own so keep ideas comming

A good way to get clay flat ish is a rolling pin to make a sheet of it. I then paint surface with pva and place clay on it and cut of excess and lighty smooth it with water and fingers to make sure its beded in properly:) I do same for roads but only roll out centre section and smooth it into gutters to get camber of road. Water is key to keeping it plyable... and I get really messy etc

very nice detail in those wagons...

wonder if we can find these orsimular ... .. 1930 gardening books. ignore that price

you could try BFI archive and filter 1930's "Rural Life" https://player.bfi.org.uk/britain-on-film/map#/51.15163700/0.5881986854/11//1930/Rural life for example https://player.bfi.org.uk/free/film/watch-our-village-1935-online about half way through is a woman hanging landry.. but i bet small hard standing and one path small patch of grass and a vegatable plot.

Morning.. at wrok atm.. rendered would work and as you said a few pathes of brick work.. showing through, is always good people always thought render would stop damp, but in most cases they are wrong, andy lime motor wall needs to breath.. hence damp and blown render. and dont get me started on those people that then painted tar on it to also stop the damp (can you tell i have removed alot of this from real buildings) i use air clay but artex should work.. Tape a ruler (of thin strip of wood / solid card to make sure the vertical line on next door building is in correct place and stays there , also helpfull if that is same depth as render, can act as a guide leave a few holes in places, and when 50% dry score with a nail small crack lines from the hole. like so and don't worry about 100% flat as a bit of bumps is good and can be litely sanded back... google some photos of blown render, it useually is happens for either damp rising (from bottom, so patch near ground, ) or around window cills, due to condentation from windows, or from leaking gutters... down pipes etc.. also painting it to match brickwork will not be needed.. a sponge and various yellowy tan's as a base with off whites dabed on top, followed by dirty whites and greys... think i have looked at to much dirt

a place to look is under the rail where the elec contact goes as cgravel there under contact can do that as it pushes the contact up so it hits closing rail.. have a look.. and good luck

got more glue and 0.5mm plasticard so back to the yard office and old "The Qween Anne" to finish roof, downpipes etc.. just need some chimney pots... not perfect as i can see loads of errors

Getting there I see.. you might need to lose some brickwork at the eves / soft to match that of the pub.

lol yep i use them to take soooo many photos so i can browse and make a list of oops.. missed that etc... without bending my back into a yoga posistion. to check

i really like this photo.. has the feel of wide flat marsh land around it with that open sky.. a good example of a non standard crop etc...

there seems to be a minor bug in upload.. if you cancel one or one fails the limit goes wrong... hit f5 (it should cache your half written post in reply box) and try same photo again

Playing with 1:1 version I see .. very nice

Hmmm well if you removed raised sto e work first and try it with brick over top. And if not plan b remove section.. it's a kind of a then b .. but b then a wont work so I say try a first... erm lol hope you understand that

yep saw thoose durring research.. they are TINY but i wanted to maintain Hornby couplers due to not wanting to faf with wagons etc... but very nice for Kadee couplers..

hi thanks for comments .. allways helpfull to hear other options etc.. yep.. i statred with this as didn't want to have to adapt all my wagons etc.. i am planing on only shunting small amounts of wagons, probably in singles. and thus will be putting a "dumb buffer" on shunter and thus use buffer to push, as have very tight curves on this little private wharf yard. hence why i removed the loop for this case. but as you stated it should be esay to move a loop down rather than hook up..and that also would meen no apation of wagons etc. i will draw something, and hopefully not have to adapt coil mounting pivot.i will have a think. wonder if o could do both mmmm currently working on circuit with saftey systems to avoid coil burnout, and a write up for thingverse, (note tho if anyone wants STL files can PM them)

nice 3d models...

they ae cool..

you could even get away with covering about half, aka fill over only first house and leave next one as is... slaters https://www.slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/embossed.php do oo plasticard, in runner and english brick bond, and you would only have to paint the wall to match brickwork on pub.. and hide most with a ghost sign.

that's a option.. and a good old hand painted sign ghosting on the brick work...

cool will have a look.. a cut and shunt is posible, complex but posible...

do they have a online catalog of the range.. as wonder if another type might help trun the corner ?