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37Oban

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  1. Hi, this is one of those dilemmas that everyone will have their own ideas on but you are the one to make the decision! For my two penn'orth, unless it can be easily seen for most viewing angles, I'd go with only one pit, and that being the outside one. However, as I've said, it's up to you to go through the pro's and con's of each idea and then decide. Roja
  2. Hi, operators not taking the time to complete the coupling and brake test operations is one of my bugbears when watching a layout at an exhibition. Once maybe operator error but two? That's when I walk away no matter how high the standard the rest of the layout. Bit like spoiling the shop for a hap'worth of tar! Roja
  3. Hi, I agree. Also needs some subtle weathering and I would also paint the footpath kerb, the ones I've seen are always a different colour to the path and road being made from a type of concrete. Roja
  4. For us of a certain age I think it should be Sage! Roja
  5. I agree. The top of the clump will be fairly well covered in leaves but the underneath just an open mess of stems. I'd add a wee bit more foliage, and some changes in the tones of green. Bramble foliage turns slightly paler, or darker, depending on the species, then gets patches of different shades of brown and beige the later in the year towards autumn. Depending on how late in spring your model is set maybe a few white flowers would help too. Roja
  6. And brambles! Lots of brambles! And nettles! Did I mention brambles? Roja
  7. Experts! Best definition I know of an expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less until they know everything about nothing at all! Roja
  8. You've got to have Tunnock's and Irn Bru delivery vans somewhere on the layout! Roja
  9. I wholeheartedly agree with this! I seriously think that the model designers never actuctually "look" at the real thing to see what it actually visible! Even enlarged photographs of rolling sock doesn't show all the pipes and undergubbins that they insist on adding unless said vehicle is upside down following an accident! I feel that, for some modellers, it's a case of bragging rights! I know this view will offend some, but that's what I think! If you can't see it on the prototype from the lineside if the train is stood, let alone passing when you're stood on a platform, then what is the point? Surely what is more important is how close the external visible appearance of he model is is to prototype and how well it runs! We run steam locomotives and diesels with electric motors so why don't people complain about that? Imagine, a steam powered 4mm black 5 with working brakes, or a Cl37 with diesel engine, generator, traction motor to each axle,train heating and brakes coupled to a rake of mk1 coaches with wqrking brakes and steam heating! Then imagine the cost! If people want all the bells and whistles then fair enough, but, and it's a big but, what about all of us who just want a model that looks good and runs well at a reasonable price? I model EM, but most of my stock is used, kit or scratchbuilt. It looks good but lacks all the underside details because my philosphy is if I can't see it when on the layout why bother with it! Roja
  10. 37Oban

    Camden Shed

    Hi, I've built all sorts of turnout formations in both N an EM, including, in N, curved single slips and curved 3-way with a minimum radius of 8 inches! Unfortunately I don't have any photos of these. I enjoy building turnouts, but the have to be accurate to work well, and you have to be happy with their appearance or they'll annoy you to the point of madness! The curved 3-way took, I think, 6 attempts, before I was happy with it. I recently built a double slip in EM, which works okay, but I have a couple of niggles about it's appearance so, when I get the time, I'll either rebuild part of it, or maybe in it's entirety. I thing I do is only use copperclad sleepers in the critical areas of the turnout, such as support for the crossing nose and associated wing rails, and 4, sometimes 5, timbers to which the blades are soldered and 1, maybe 2, either side of the tie bar and 1 at the end of each road to assist keeping gauge and when laying with other track. The rest of the timbers are wood strip. As a rule, unless it's one of the critical areas, I only use 1 copperclad sleep in every 3 or 4 to maintain gauge. Also, I've never been too concerned about the thickness of the copperclad. A thin shim of card or plasticard under the timbers in question can be inserted when the turnout is laid, and/or during construction, and this subterfuge is easily hidden when ballasted. I have bought copperclad of a nominal thickness which was actually thinner, but worked around it as suggested. After all, like everything else, copperclad is now an expensive commodity, so I try to waste as little as possible during construction. Roja
  11. Depends on the time of year. From mid summer to late autumn bramble fruits will range from a pale white-ish green through to glossy black with a hint of purple whilst raspberries range from the same pale colour to a nice pinkish red. Apart from that, in 7mm, there's not much difference in the appearance of the plants. Roja
  12. Mm, brambles! Being Glenfinnan, maybe there should be some wild raspberries in the mix! Roja
  13. Is it me or is that kink near the turnout getting worse? I know it would be a PITA to fix but it would be well worth it both for appearance and running. Roja
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