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Sir TophamHatt

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Everything posted by Sir TophamHatt

  1. The Traveller Club is for those people who spend thousands (over £10k?) a year on tickets - not searon tickets. You get perks, such as closer parking at certain stations (not that this is monitored!) and free First Class travel at weekends... some free tickets too. They stopped taking applications a while ago, then opened it again, then closed it again, so it's sort of pot luck.
  2. Do the resistors have to be on the positive side of the circuit? I have a black/white wire set up in a building but I can't see whether it's an LED or not, or if it has a resistor so gonna put one in anyway. White wire = positive.
  3. Hmm. Inspired me to look at mine. I have an open fire so already got real coal. Just have to wrap some up and smash it... or wait until the bucket is empty!
  4. This is me too. DCC layout but simple (off-on-off) switches for points. I don't have a layout board, LEDs this or that, just put the switches in order of where they are; the left most points are the left switch, the middle ones are the middle switch etc etc...
  5. Thought about the whole range of packaging you get and what people may or may not keep. I am a stickler for keeping everything but reckon I'll slim down a quarter of it. Model boxes, be it locos, units, buildings or things like tunnels - keep all. Although I have no current plans to sell certain models, I will always keep the box. But I also keep decoder boxes (and manuals) and point motor boxes too! It's these sorts of things I am thinking of dumping, especially the decoders that are hard wired into locos. For me, it's about re-sale at a later date, as well as storage (like buildings sotred in their original boxes). What do you keep? Is there anything you think you shouldn't? And what's the reasoning behind why you keep things others would probably just throw?
  6. As you've said, forget about the controller for now. Where are you located? If near a member here, I'm sure they'd be able to help you read and write new values if possible. Ask the model shop/anyone to read the CV values from 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 to be on the safe side. Also post the results here. Also, don't get confused with the speed steps and mph. I have no idea what speed step 28 is in mph on my layout. I don't know what the maximum setting would be if you wanted 28 to be the top speed. FYI: I only have 28 speed steps on my layout. My controller/decoders do all three settings, but I choose 28 as 128 is a little too long for me (I don't need that fine motor control!) and 14 is a bit too short.
  7. Just to be clear, it's just a wondering question rather than a practical one I am looking to impliment.
  8. Amazing the amount of 66s being offered for sale in the past few days. All in preperation for this, or people downgrading to the Hornby one no doubt!
  9. I have no real intention of doing this but wondering if it would be possible to have a siding that has a connection to the programming track output of my controller? To separate it from the rest of the layout, it would have insulated joiners. However, this means it would stall when entering the siding. So could an additional set of wires be joined so allow locos/units to enter the siding? Or would the controller just ka'blowy? I hope I'm clear enough.
  10. This is me too. I buy whichever I can find the cheapest of at the time of needing to buy. Although I was forced to use a Digitrax one in a loco (Bachmann Emily), which barely had space for the motor let alone anything else. That runs "okay", although haven't done any proper testing.
  11. And the lights! All the lights. Hundreds of tube lights!
  12. I gave up in the end. I've fitted wires ready to re-add the BM1 at a later date, so I can ballast the areas but I can't see how changing the control input would stop the loco auto reversing. If I work it out, I'll report back.
  13. Look on ebay for "DCC Socket" or something similar and you should find some for £1.95 + 99p delivery. Others buy the little sockets for pennies each and solder wires but the faff/time/effort/electric isn't worth the saving. FYI, you can buy 5 or 6 sockets and it's still the same postage price. For the wire, I got a lot of mine from Express Models. Bought about 5-10m of the DCC Decoder wire in each of the colours they did. Others may say it's cheaper elsewhere but I was ordering other stuff from the site anyway so added the wire. Means now I have a whole load of small wires suitable for decoder soldering. I don't think I'll need to buy any more again... ever. I bought a few of the pre-made sockets. I wish I'd socketed more locos, although the majority wouldn't have had space for one. All are Zimo (MX600) or Lenz (Silver+ v2) anyway - both around the £20 mark. My Turbostar was hard wired a few years back as it was one of the first I did. The Voyager was done just a few months ago, so I was wiser then and put sockets in. This means I can change the decoders easier if I wanted to add sound at a later date.
  14. I guess the other consideration is cost to use ratio. I'm not sure that something like the ESU would really be worth the money for the amount of time I spend on my layout actually controlling trains. I could save up and get one at the end of the year, but I am weary that it could be replaced by then too. For the £600 odd, I could get 3 sound locos - even more if less. Not sure what something the ESU would have over my current controller, that I'd actually use!
  15. Really though? A conversation down the pub to say what each other is producing isn't going to be picked up on. I'm coming from the approach that it isn't about collusion, but about not wanting to pour hundreds of thousands of pounds into a model only to make a marginal profit because someone else is already producing it to a very similar standard. I seriously can't see there will be blinding differences between the Hornby and Rails' Terriers. Both will be more than up to scratch with todays models, so surely it is a bit of a waste of money/resources, when it could have been put towards something else - like a high detail 37, 47, or a completely new loco/unit. Yes, both companies are likely to make a profit from the model, but I bet not as much if they'd chosen something a little more unique.
  16. Spent the last 10 mins or so trying to find a topic I started a few years back asking the same question. I can't figure out how the search streams work as I've asked for my own topics (that I started) from anytime, oldest first but it doesn't show me a list of topics like the old RMweb. The general help I got was: A lot of people have the NCE system. However, I understood repairs took place in America, the power was on the low side (although you could buy an additional power booster), and something about UK power supplies and warranty perhaps? I settled with the Prodigy Advance 2. I don't think I'd be operating with one hand, so the turn of the knob doesn't bother me. I've not noticed the knob not registering a turn, unless I turn it pretty quick, but then I'm either going to 28 or 0 speed so just keep turning it anyway. Am I tempted by the ESU? After looking at it, yes. But I have a good system now and a baby on the way so no chance of replacing it!
  17. I'm don't think VR/AR will take off. I can see the draw with live steam and it's a shame no other company has looked into developing this - even for diesels. More so, companies not looking at making opening doors on multiple units, or other such things. Yes, prices will rise, but hey, I bet 20 years ago nobody thought people would buy sound locos! But VR/AR? May as well not bother putting anything but track down then... if I can just model it all on a computer and play using goggles, right? Samsung tried with VR but the uptake has been very slow. It was about 4 years ago I first tried the Samsung goggles with a phone and a rollercoaster. Haven't heard anything about it since. Same with 3D. Notice how it's not a main selling point of TVs these days - people have decided it's not worth it. It's all about 4K, 8K - which is a waste in itself as there are still a good number of channels that aren't HD yet. Myself though, I like to model. I like ballasting, making trees, the landscape, putting together a scene or a station. That's what this hobby is about no?
  18. Read this: I understand the more competition is better, supposedly for prices. In reality though... I also understand the Hornby 66 and Hattons 66 will serve different price points. The Bachmann one is fairly old now, so hats off to Hattons for remaking it to the latest standards in modeling. Lastly, I understand the law against collusion but I'm not really sure how enforcable that is. But are we seeing a growing trend of companies trying to out do each other instead of bring something new to the market? That specifically the aim is to out do their competitors? I've said it before (and while I'd have no interest in them) the Class 375/376/377/378/379 family could be done fairly easily and I suspect quickly. Yes there's differences between the units but the main CAD work would be done, so it's just small additions here and there. But the fact we're now seeing a lot more models duplicated means there's less choice surely? Musings indeed.
  19. So, fitted to the layout in the same way as my test piece of track. The loco passes the first insulated break and slows down. However it now won't auto reverse until I hit reverse on the handset. I can't see anything that's different, apart from after the braking zone there's another rail gap and a bit of powered track. I didn't have that on my test track. And I'm now using the Prodigy Advance 2 instead of a sprog. What could be causing this behaviour?
  20. I watched part 2 last night. In two minds about some of it. I was disappointed to hear Hattons suggest it was "spite" about the Class 66. Did they not see the level of detail? Yes, £75 for a sound model against the ~£260 Hattons is asking is a whole lot of difference. But there's a whole lot of difference in the models too! I wouldn't have thought it was spite - Hornby don't have enough money to be spiteful, surely? The Terrier was a bit naughty, and I did feel for the Rails guy. But this is what business is all about. Hornby aren't going to tell other businesses what they're making. I'm glad the Rails guy showed his dismay but came over as the complete opposite to Hattons in that Hornby wern't being spiteful, just trying to drag themselves out of the red.
  21. No, no, no sorry, that won't do. It's so detailled. I mean, look at the cables and gubbins round the buffer area! The bogies are clearly a photo coloured grey, the little door handles for the cab, the sticky out horns... I don't think that's a model at all. We can't have that running round the layout! It'll make my Super Detailled Hornby's look like toy trains :p / Congrats Don't care much for electrics (I'm a multiple unit modeller really) but if you want encouragement - I can't give you enough!
  22. I went with this. You'll see it's more expensive but then people have suggested buying an extra this and that for the NCE. However, as always, each to their own. Most people seem to go with the NCE but I'm happy with my choice and wouldn't look at another system for a long time. The draw to the PA2 for me was the price - £125 all in, which is way below what others were selling it at. The extra programming track outputs is very helpful. I haven't needed to read much more than CV1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 29 - all of which read and wrote fine. However if you want to get into the nitty gritty of motor control and such, it may fall as Art has said. I have a Sprog to do all that now anyway, which has sort of put the programming track out of business but the option is always still there.
  23. Trying to look here: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/20708-virgin-class-180/ However the Google monster can see it fine :S
  24. Thanks for explaining Will give the other side a go and see if I can get a proper shuttle in operation before adding it to the layout. I'll try and report back with any problems / video of it in action maybe.
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