Anthony James

Hello I have several of these but with a problem. I check them on the program track and all the LED/s light up perfect, however, the Red taillights that I want to work do not, they are still attached to the strip. I have tried everything also resetting the decoder back to factory settings which it was anyway, but I cannot get them to work for some reason. FO is forward and FO is reverse etc as per the manual? Regards anthony

Hello all Well now everything is finally working. I decided to check every single thing very carefully, and I found that the green wire on the decoder harness was not connected to the pin properly, a quick solder and now that red LED that Nigel suggested finally light up, so all good. Many thanks to help provided with this post. Regards Anthony

Hallo Vecchio, there was no instructions with the Roco uncouplers, they are supplied as spare parts, as they originally came with a decoder. I have asked a friend in Austria about the Roco Versus Krois and Zimo decoders, he originally said that you have to tell the decoder which one it is. (Deutsch ist kein Problem für mich, obwohl es nicht meine Muttersprache ist. Grüße aus Sydney, Australien) Regards Anthony

Hello Again, Nigel, today I wired up the LED and the resistor and connected them to the blue and green wires on the decoder, it did not work, so I then tried it out with a 12V and it worked perfectly. so I checked everything and tried again with the same result, not working. This is a Loksound 5 8 pin decoder that was blank, and I put in the sound from ESU using a Lokprogrammer, so I will wait to see what you say next, but I could try to reset the decoder etc and start again. Donnersbachkogul thank you for the information on uncouplers with Zimo decoders, and a great video, the shunter does not even push back the wagons as in the real thing, very nice, especially the Pantograph going up and down, well done. I will try out all the settings when I get this Krois going. Do you have to tell the zimo decoder which uncoupler it is? Roco or Krois, I have that on my notes that somebody said that! Regards Anthony

Hello Thank you for the comments and advice. I have made up the LED and resistor, but it is really hard to solder it on the very small terminal on the decoder which is in situ , so an experienced friend is coming over to do that later in the week for me. As for the 12V yes I hooked it up but the Krois does not work, so I guess it is cooked somehow, I do have another two so I will be extra careful with the others, and they both do work on the 12V at the moment. I do use the Roco Universal coupling, and yes I agree, it is a good fit for the Krois. I have now also received the Roco uncouplers, and IMO they are better than the Krois, they are a little bigger sure, but the action seems to be better, they will be next with a Zimo decoder. What settings are you using with the Zemo decoder CV115 and CV116 and CV127? Regards Anthony, and back with the test results later on this week.

Hello again I forgot to say that the engine does the waltz ok, looks good, but unfortunately the Krois does not work. I was just wondered should I have un soldered the blue wire from the harness first maybe?

Hello So far, I have not had any success with hooking up the Krois with the Loksound 5 8 pin with a harness for some reason, here is what I have done. Checked which wire is the positive using a 12v power supply, connected the positive to the blue wire on the harness where the plug goes in, then the other wire to the green wire of the decoder which was loose, not in the harness. Function Mapping. F11 AUX1(1) Krois uncoupler Uncoupling cycle sound slot 8 Function Output. Aux1(1) Krois coupling Power on 2 Power off 0 Tick Enable Function. Power on delay 2 Power off delay 4 Coupler force 30 Function settings 2 61 0 122 I have tried to attach the actual Lokprogrammer file esux but it is not allowed. Regards Anthony

Hello They used to, but now you can buy them separately from Roco, as I have just done. I think that the design of them is based on the remote control that a shunter has in small yards where he is not actually in the Loco, Regard Anthony

Hello Again For Zimo decoders and uncoupling, is it the same as the Loksound with the wiring, say Green and Blue to connect the uncoupler? Regards Anthony

Hello Nigel Thanks for the quick reply. I am in the process of installing Krois and Roco uncouplers to quite a few cars etc. Now I finally know what to do, and you are correct with the local shops, some of them do sell items that they have no knowledge about so it is hard to get advice, this Forum is great for that. Regards Anthony

Hello again I just spoke to my local Train shop and was told this. Use the Green for the positive and the Blue for minus, the Blue is actually a Positive common? then map it to AUX 1 which is what I want to use it for.now that is interesting. Regards Anthony

Hello I have done all the settings to do the coupler waltz, so the last part is to soler up the + and _ of the actual coupler. I have locked at different postings but am still unclear on how to do this. Do you connect to the Blue wire and the U+ or is it some other way, a friend said the green wire and U+ if U+ is the common then whatever colour I use is the Plus? I want the uncoupler to work on F5 as this is the F stop that has the uncoupling sound. Regards Anthony

Hello Nigel thank you for your reply and the information, I will work on it all later today. Regards Anthony

Hello I have the Krois uncoupler and the Roco 129678 uncoupler. The Roco one came with a decoder but you can know buy them on their own which I have done. The Roco one looks a bit more sturdier, however, I don't know how to attach it to the decoders that I am using. Roco 129678 uncoupler with a Zimo 645 decoder in a Roco Loco Roco 129678 with a ESU Loksound 5 decoder in a Roco Loco any ideas would be helpful Regards Anthony

Hello Thanks for the replies. Some more information, the decoder is a Lokpilot 5 FX 59220 which is a function only decoder, no motor control, the relay is an ESU 51963 1 amp 12v there is nothing about the relay on the ESU site, it just says 1amp 12-16v the LED strip is 12-16v and does have a Bridge Rectify at the start of it. At the moment I am trying to look at the overall picture, it should not be this hard, but then again I am not very good with the electronics. Regards Anthony