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keitharmes

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  1. Just had a measure up and the 28xx boiler/firebox is the right length. It's the Hall frames that are 1mm too short. The whole of the Hall smokebox/boiler/firebox is under-nourished so you can't join the 28xx boiler to a Hall firebox. Fortunately, because the firebox sits higher on the 28xx, there is enough material on the sides of the firebox to remove the 2-8-0 wheel arches and form the 4-6-0 ones. Not that the 28xx as a whole is perfect, I might have already mentioned that the 28xx smokebox saddle is 1mm too high, resulting in the smokebox sitting too high and the boiler having a taper top and bottom instead of all on the top. Easily fixed by reducing the height of the saddle. Keith
  2. I've already bought a set of Fox transfers for the large GW engines. Not cheap, and I only need the boiler bands, but we'll see how well it works. The first thing to do is try to match the boiler colour to the rest of the loco. Then make a new chimney. In fact , I've got several chimneys to make, my 2884 class needs a taper cast iron chimney and the Manor needs an original GW one in place of the slimmer BR. Keith
  3. I've been having a go at improving the Dapol Hall by replacing the boiler unit with one from the Dapol 28XX. The original boiler unit is a stretched version of the Dapol Manor, so it is undersized, as you can see in the first picture. I had to shorten the 28xx boiler by a small amount, cutting the boiler away from the firebox with a junior hacksaw removed enough material for me to just glue the two parts together again. Using the 28xx steam pipes also improves the look.
  4. I should have added that it doesn't include wheels. Keith
  5. Yes, the tender from the shop has all the brake gear, etc, the same as the commercial tender, just all loose. Keith
  6. Here is a shot of progress so far with the 43xx. RH cylinder / piston assembly complete. Now to try and get the LH side to match! The tender is a Dapol 3500 gal tender via the 2mm shop.
  7. I do the same as Nick, except that I use 1mm brass studding. This fits the existing 1mm tapped holes, although some of them need a tap run through because they don't tap the whole way through. Easier for some to use 14BA, like Nick. Incidentally, I found the 1mm brass studding at www.prime-miniatures.co.uk. Keith
  8. No, the Dapol wheels just need thinning down closer to the bearing boss, leaving a little of the original thickness at the centre to space the wheel away from the frame. Depending on how sharp your tools are, you can end up with a bit of cleaning up where the spokes have been machined. Something like this, just starting on the wheels for the 43xx. Keith
  9. The spigot IS the bearing surface that the wheel runs on. So its important that that is the part used to hold the wheel when turning the outside diameter. The axle just holds the wheels apart, so to speak, and takes no part in the accuracy of running. The first step is turning the original flange off, not boring. Keith
  10. Just three pictures of Castle wheels preparation. The first pic shows 'After, Before and a Dapol wheel for comparison. The Farish wheel has spokes the same depth as FS, so machining away the thicker rim leaves it OK at the back, pic 2. Machining from the inside outwards leaves any burrs on the outside, easy to remove with a touch with a file. It is then chucked by the bearing spigot, 3mm dia, and the rim taken back by 0.2mm. If you are replacing the coupling rods, then the coupling rod boss can be machined back at the same time. Finally, the outside diameter is machined down to suit the 2FS rim. Remove any burrs, pic 3. Keith
  11. Too much time on our hands looks like being a feature of all our lives, Tim. Richard, I'm planning on doing a few notes and a photo or two before any MRJ article. Keith
  12. I've done about a dozen conversions using the rim replacement method and none of them have had a problem with the metal of the wheels That's Dapol and Farish. As Izzy says, sharp tools and gentle cuts. Don't try to solder to them though. They don't take solder, and somebody wrote that it can cause the Mazak to crumble. Keith
  13. Hi Chris, I only bought a basic chassis from DCC Supplies, just the metal chassis with wheels and gears. I wanted to use as much of your etched chassis as possible, in fact, I originally only intended to use the Dapol chassis as a gearbox and drive unit but then thought 'Why not use the whole of the Dapol frame'. Keith
  14. People will remember the GW 43XX posted on here recently by John Birkett-Smith. I was kindly given one of these excellent printed bodies by Jerry Clifford, so here is the start that I've made. I decided to use a Dapol Grange rolling chassis from DCC Supplies as a base and merge it with one of the Association's Chris Higgs etched 61XX chassis. The wheels will have 2FS rims fitted, that's the next job to do. Keith
  15. Looking forward to seeing that. The same type I'm waiting to fire from Llanfair to Welshpool during the short time te engine spent on the WLLR. Keith
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