Jump to content

Ian Rathbone

Members
  • Content Count

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

184 Good

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

178 profile views
  1. You need an ochre but there is no Humbrol equivalent so mix No.9, Tan with No. 69, Gloss Yellow roughly 50:50, then add a tiny drop of green. You will end up with a khaki colour which is ideal for the lining on MR & LMS non corridor stock and vans. When the shows reopen get some Precision 'Ochre Brown' or M&GN 'Golden Gorse'. Hope this helps. Ian R e
  2. Barry Is your Black 5 a Scottish engine? The classification 5MT was only used on engines painted in Scotland. South of the border it was simply '5'. Regards Ian R
  3. Taz My mistake, the colour is called 'Ochre Brown' and is RAL 8001, it doesn't have a P number. M&GN Golden Gorse P625 is very close and is one I have used. Ian R
  4. Use Precision Lining Ochre or a mix of Humbrol Gloss Yellow (69) and Tan (9), about 50:50. Ian R
  5. Thank you to those who helped out. Maedhbh is now with a happy customer. The kit, most of you will know, is by Studio Scale Models and was built by Mike edge who has scratch and kit built a number of GNRI locos in 4 and 7mm scales. This one is built to run on EM gauge track as a compromise between 16.5 & 21mm. Keep safe Ian R
  6. The 800 is now complete using the transfers provided in the kit for the coat of arms, GS and buffer beam number, varnished overall, glazing and tender coal. Regards Ian R
  7. All the painting is now complete. Lining to follow. I did the yellow lining, with a bow pen, first as this is the most prominent. The position of the lining is dictated by all those rivets, some not quite in the right place, especially on the splashers. Black lining to follow. The interior of the cab is more than just brown below and cream above. There is a black band at the bottom, level with the top of the slashers. The model splashers are a little large so this runs just below the top. The brown/cream junction is level with the top of the cab doors (absent here). There is also a 2" wide brown border on the rear edge of the cab. The black lining was a pig to put on. Most of it goes over rivets so there was a danger of flooding as the bow pen clattered over the rivets. The loco valance is less than a millimetre deep yet there has to be room for the green, the yellow and the black. I noticed from photos that there is a black border to the buffer beam, I presume the tender is the same. I liked the system for locating the tender axle boxes and springs. It meant they could happily be left off until painting and lining was complete - it made it so much easier. All for now. Ian R
  8. Painting is progressing well on the 800 class (which is to be 800 not 801). The first photo shows the result after spraying the body colour over a grey etching primer. The next is after masking and spraying the major black parts. The loco frames had already been painted by the builder (Mike Edge). And with the masking removed, together with some of the other bits. The wheels were brush painted, somewhat tediously. More anon. Keep safe. Ian R
  9. Thank you Eion for the cab photos. Just what I needed. Regards Ian R
  10. Back to the topic! I've sprayed the main body colour but the next problem is the cab interior colour. What colour is the underside of the roof, ditto cab walls? I assume CIE would have continued the GSR scheme so the preserved 800 cab colour would be correct. Can anyone help out please? Thanks in advance. Regards Ian R
  11. Thank you for your replies. There is a video on YouTube of GW railcar No. 22, its upholstery looks like the colour I'm looking for. Any comments? Regards Ian R
  12. I am painting a model of 801 which is to be in the early bluey-green colour. Can anyone point me in the right direction regarding a mix or reference for this elusive colour? Ian R
  13. A few points. Phoenix two part etching primer is good providing you add cellulose thinners to the mix, it won't work otherwise. Mix the Phoenix thinners and primer 1:1 then add 2 parts cellulose thinners. Spray lightly, you don't need much. Etching primer is meant for brass and nickel silver and has little effect on white metal where a filler primer, rubbed down, does a better job. Just remember to give your airbrush a good clean with cellulose thinners, which I am sure is available in Spain. BR green is not Brunswick Green, it is Mid Chrome Green (or Landrover Deep Bronze Green). Brunswick was used by the GCR and SECR; it has more blue in it. In BR livery the A2 should have green valances, not black. Regards Ian R
  14. I have seen this and someone doing a photoshop of one A1 in Great Central livery. Was this the A1? Definitely not photoshopped. I've done 'North British' too. Both locos are repainted Bachmann. Ian R
  15. I've been using Precision paints for over 40 years. Thin with white spirit 50:50 then test on a flat sheet and adjust if necessary, (I rarely have to). Spray a mist coat on the model first to see where the shadows are and then a wet coat, watching the paint surface very closely to avoid runs. Good lighting is essential. A series of light coats is a safe method but this tends to give quite a matt finish which is no good for transfers or lining. I always use their gloss paints. I have no problems spraying at about 20deg C. There is a good book that covers this Ian R
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.