Take the shell off the train, turn it upside down put the chassis on a piece of foam and connect its motor to 12vDC with crocodile clips, grab a load of cotton buds and clean the wheels to a mirror finish with PEEK metal polish whilst the wheels are turning. Your train will run better than it ever has before. after you have done, give every pickup a squirt with, SERVISOL SUPER 10

Im in electronics sector and use servisol daily, its mega stuff for pickups, its designed to clean wipers inside potentiometers for enhanced and prolonged electrical contact, one squirt of this will keep the phosphur bronze pickups clean for months.

No answers yet?

New models are often over-greased, maybe as a precaution against sitting on a shelf for moths before being purchased.

Nothing really beats a strip down, clean & re-lubricate with a light oil. A coating of graphite should also work well.

For solid deposits on wheels, a fibreglass pencil can be used. The fibreglass which flakes off is a skin irritant though.

Isopropyl alcohol removes a lot of dirt effectively. Methylated spirits is an alternative to this but its colouring can remain as an unwanted residue.

Somerset and Dorset has GWR and SR (and LMS) motive power ?

heres a modified hall, at Eastleigh..

The site is a goldmine, here’s a few foreigners on someone else’s turf, including V2’s in Waterloo..

https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railways-British-Isles/SR-and-BRS/SR-Visitors-and/

 Are we talking perhaps of the 1948 Exchanges ? If so reconsider the Southern bit.......and the tender ? The other two regions ...the Eastern at Carlisle and the Western at Shrewsbury would stand together as an everyday occurrence and it was a common sight to see them hauling GW stock on West to North trains into Shrewsbury

Oh, so did it only run on the Southern with the Austerity tender during the trials? The photos I found of it in this condition were the one at Paddington and one on the Eastern with teaks, so that would make sense.

Alex

It's a common occurrence with some Bachman decoders.  It can usually be tamed by adjusting CVs 54 and 55.  There was a similar question posted a few days ago.  See here 

Try the CV 54 and 55 values in the Bachmann document here  -  http://service.Bachmann.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/decoder_settings.pdf

Yes, CV 150 selects either algorithm 1 (select 0) or algorithm 2 (select 1). See which one controls the motor with less stuttering.  Then fine tune CVs 151 and 152 if using algorithm 1, or 153 and 154 if using algorithm 2 to get it smooth.  I have found that changing CV10 (Back EMF) doesn't have much effect. Changing CV3 (accelleration) and CV4 (decelleration) helps to get smooth starts and stops.

It takes time to fine tune these decoders but well worth it.  I have fitted 12 diesel locos of different classes, Hornby "high spec" and Bachmann, and all have required different CVs even the same manufacturers model class!

Plug and play they certainly aren't, but for £35 ish each I think they are really good.  Especially if you upgrade the speakers. 

On my Bachmann 8 pin 37 429 I found that the following CV's suited it very well:

CV3=100, CV4=30, CV150=1, CV151=25, CV152=5, CV153=30, CV154=1.

I use NCE Powercab - other makes of controller will possibly produce different results.

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

See Post #15 of this thread.

Per earlier Post:

Southern                                               Hornby    

Set       Compo   Brake 1    Brake 2      Compo      Brake 1      Brake 2              

S965    5711       2845        2846           R4882        R4884       R4884A              

S973    5719       2861        2862          R4882A      R4884B     R4884C

I will let a BR era modeler do their thing....

41 minutes ago, philiprporter said:

My understanding from the video posted here is that the max height of the pan can be adjusted with CVs and there is a section where Andy Y confirms it is indeed softly sprung when raised. 

After fiddling with cv’s I’ve found setting cv 163 to 230  and cv 162 to 70 gets the pan much higher while still having a little slack to avoid damage. If you get the Bachmann decoder it gives a handy breakdown of what the pan specific cvs do and what they are set to from factory. 

For those wishing to fit a decoder in the new Hornby Terrier, the Zimo MX617F (wires with NEM651 plug) will just fit without having to resort to any surgery whatsoever.

I initially thought the 70mm long wires would be problematic, however, they can be gently folded to rest atop the decoder socket and held with a small strip of tape whilst the body is refitted.

WARNING! Use thin, pointed tweezers to gently prise the sandpipes over the brake gear when aligning and refitting body.

Received the new Hornby Terrier today... quite a nice improvement over the old one, now with 6pin DCC socket in the boiler, and a little more room to play with under the chimney. MX616N for simple DCC conversion.  For sound, it needs hard-wiring, and the Zimo MX648 is spot-on perfect for that cavity. Restricted on speaker space, but the YouChoos Minnow4 goes in without too much fuss, and sounds good in the little model.

MX648, perfect fit:

Create maximum space:

MX648 and Minnow4 speaker, protected with Kapton tape:

Smart:

Full install guide available here: YouChoos Terrier install guide

Enjoy!
John

The Bachmann ESU Lokpilots based /rebadged decoders often need tweaking to their Back EMF CVs to get acceptable running in steam locos - they are usually fine in diesels. Bachmann did produce a list of CV setting for the earlier 36-553 which covered a number of their own models (56xx, Hall, G2A, Ivatt 4 2-6-0, Jubliee, Std 4 2-6-4T  2-6-0 & 4-6-0, 9F)

Load control parameter "K" (CV54) usually defaults as 48 and Bachmann  recommended this be set to 12, with the exception of 15 (Std 4 4-6-0) and 25 (9F). The higher this is set the stronger the effect of Back EMF control

Load control parameter "l" (CV55) usually defaults as 32 and Bachmann  recommended this be set to 63, with the exception of 32 (9F), 56 (Jubliee) and 62 (G2A and Std 4 4-6-0). The higher the momentum of the motor (large flywheel or bigger motor diameter, the lower this value has to be set.

You may to be able to switch Back EMF off so narrowing down easily whether that is the problem.  ESU list the option as part of the Extended Configuration #1 CV49 and is switched off by reducing the existing CV value by 1 (and switched back on by adding 1 to the value)

Thought that perhaps a post indicating the stay-alive connection options with the Hornby TTS decoders might be useful.

There are two ways of adding the wires, one of which I feel is rather easier than the other due to the small sizes involved.

I have used a fine Antex Tip to help illustrate where to solder and how small the parts are. This is a new/un-used one ( which is why it looks so clean!), and has a 1mm point.

The first is how they can be added to a plain Hornby R8249 decoder on which the TTS version is based, the sound part being basically added onto it. This involves adding the wires to the diode rectifying part.

The Positive connection

And the Negative one.

As I hope you can see it's really tight to get a soldering iron tip in there. Okay if like me you use a small iron with a fine tip, a 15watt Antex with those 1mm tips, but if you have a larger iron, 25-40watt with a bigger tip... well.

So, this is the other way with the TTS decoders. The connections are on the opposite side.

The negative connection is to where the sound part is added, and is on the edge. So much easier to get to

.

And the Positive just uses the Blue wire tab. Again on an edge.  I am afraid I used a spare TTS decoder I had for these shots, and the wires not needed had been removed. Both these connections are easy to remember though in that they are both the fourth one along/down.

IZZY

1 hour ago, John ks said:

My Class 90 arrived recently. Seems I am not the only one with this problem

 

One of the bogies had an excess of sideway & back/front movement

On investigation I found that the boss (pivot) that locates the bogie was broken

If looks like the screw holding the bogie to the chassis may have been over tightened to the point where the boss broke or was that stressed that the shocks during transport caused it to brake

I tapped the boss to 2mm & super glued it back in place, next day I run the tap through the boss & into what was left of the bogie frame, & held the bogie into the chassis with a longer screw that so far has been ok.

 

Photo shows the boss super glued in place, look closely & you may see the excess glue

 

 

While reassembling the loco I noticed the second bogie was not right,

Turns out the boss on that bogie was also broken

The screw was tightened to the point where the boss was distorted & very tight in its piviot hole

 

 

 

 This drawing may help to explain how I repaired the second bogie

 

 

If the first bogie fails I’ll try this same repair on it

 

If anybody is interested the servo looks a bit like this

 

 

Should I have sent this back for repairs? Maybe. If I sent it back then that could be another month(I live in Oz) or more before I see the model again

I have contacted my retailer Requesting replacement bogies but from previous posts I get the impression that they may not be available

Time will tell.

John

This is really helpful John and hopefully the repairs will hold up.

Can I ask how you removed the body shell? I would like to do this but am anxious not to damage the servo assembly in doing so.

Best wishes, Phil 

Sorry, but you lost me there. What software are you talking about?

The link in the link : https://easy-model-railroad-inventory.soft112.com

I spoke with Magnet about proof of ownership as I pointed out to them that I could easily over insure my stock for malicious reasons. Their advice was that regards proof of ownership, a receipt is desirable, but in the absence of this, their claims assessors would look favourably on a photo of the item with personal details and policy details visible in the background, as stated above.

JZ many thanks for uploading your video clip showing 453 being turned,  I have a part finished version of Kitwood's Durango turntable which, like you, I intend to use as British outline.

I use a small battery pack to turn the table as shown in the attached photos but currently only have a simple on/off switch to operate it so stopping the table in line with the exit/entry track is a bit of a performance. Could you please tell me a little more about the voltage regulator you use on your turntable. Also, when lined up to the exit track, what do you use to hold the table in position and stop it moving out of line?

Many thanks

Jim

3 hours ago, Legend said:

Posted this in the Hornby 2020 Topic , but it might be more appropriate here

 

I see the catalogue now has the correctly identified Scotrail Inter7City mk 3s ,in particular the TGFB (R4907/A) seems correctly identified . I think last year when first announced it was assumed to be a TGS variant . So that's good

 

Still confused over formation though . Variants are R4937/A Which is a TS (marked coach C in illustration)   R4890/A/B/C  described as a TSL and marked as coach D and the aforementioned R4907/A TGFB marked as Coach A

 

It looks to me to get a 4 coach rake I need 1X R4907 , 1X R4937 and 2 X R4890 , but how do I know which of these R4890s is coach B?

 

Sorry if being dense . I think the issue is that Hornby have TGFB , TS and TSL versions  whereas from the actual coach formations there are TSD and TSB variations , which are possibly just TSs externally

The codes with letters do not correspond to the coach A B C etc. They are just the product codes. I’d say you will find that the R4937 & R4937A are coaches B & C and the R4890 & R4890A/B/C will be coaches D E F & G. 

On 07/01/2020 at 14:24, John ks said:

 

 

 

the above pic looks like the  actual 7-car formation featuring the APT-U development car

 

 

Start with the 7 car set & you've got the set shown above

Remove the APT-U coach & add R40011A TS & or  R40012A TRBS & or R40013A TU & or R40014A TF to make 8,10,12, or 14 car sets

 

 

I've upgraded the following table to reflect what I now believe to be correct

Unit number followed by Hornby "R" number

Sets are highlighted & coach packs are colour coded

 

John

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for this brilliant analysis, it's help me sort out the twin coach sets I need. Looking at the advertised prices, and using Hattons prices as bench marks, there is a price imbalance between the 5 car set and the 7 car set, which doesn't match with the cost of the additional vehicles. Sorry if this has been covered before, but I had not seen any similar evaluation.

R 3874  7 car  £437.00

R3873   5 car  £356.00

Difference        £81.00

Price of 2 car articulated coach packs £81.00, so the price difference is equivalent to 2 coaches, which we've established to be a 2nd NDM and the APT-U.

The APT-U is not available yet as an add on vehicle, but a second NDM is, R3948, fleet number 49004,priced at £99.00 and described as motorised with 8 pin DCC ready.

Now Hornby are unlikely to be generous to the tune of £58, in providing a motorised NDM and APT-U for £81, when the retail price if both were available, would be £40.50 plus £99.00 = £139.50.

The only way I can square this is if the second NDM in the 7 car set R3874, is non motorised, giving it one motorised and one unmotorised NDM. Whether this will be sufficient for a full set is debatable. This is all conjecture on my part, but uses the logic that Hornby are unlikely to significantly underprice the 7 car set. Hopefully this will become clear when the catalogue comes out, but raises the thought that those buying the 7 car plus 3x2 car sets to enable the 14 car formation, may need to buy the motorised NDM for additional power. Anybody got any thoughts. I'm wondering that if you want a set with 2 motorised NDMs, you'll have to buy the extra R3948 for the 7 car set and change one of the set NDM bodies, or build up the 5 car set, buying R3948 as one of the additionals plus the 2 vehicle articulated extra coaches. 

If you've already got the 'heritage' Hornby APT, from 1981, as I have, the additional NDM could provide a better traction/power option from the ringfield version in the original set. They, however, may not match up in livery and height.

On 25/01/2020 at 22:41, Markwj said:

Do we know yet what vehicles each pack will contain and which add on packs to purchase. I have pre ordered the 7 car pack and reckon I would run a 10 car train.

Here's one I prepared earlier

Set number on top line, vehicle type left hand column. 

Vehicle # with Hornby R number next to it

John

Edit Added infomation

You can prototypically run the 7 car set (highlighted in green) as it. I believe the APT-U was only run in this configuration. See page 15 for an 8 car train with the APT-U
If you want a 10 car set then remove the APT-U & add the coach packs as required
If you want to run a 10 car set as 2+MDN+MDM+6 then you have problems because you can't get all the requires coaches separately
You could go for DTS,TS,TRBS,TBF,NDM,NDM,TBF,TBRS,TR,DTS Which will require a 7 car set + a TS & TBRS Coach packs 

I've laid and ballasted some track but now I need to cover the bare board with something.

It needs to be something found in a yard but not concrete. I envisage lorries coming in and dropping off almost anything.

What have you used please?

Dave

I doubt that PVA will stick DAS to styrene sheet if it does, it may not last too long. Dave Rowe, who introduced DAS to the model railway world many years ago, used to apply the DAS onto a styrene building carcass  and then impress the stonework or brickwork whilst it was still wet. When it had dried thoroughly, he used to flood it thoroughly with solvent (Mek Pak, Plastic Weld etc). This soaked through to the styrene and secured it effectively. I've been using the same technique for years and had no failures at all. 

The big low relief maltings at the back of the layout behind the goods shed  was constructed by this means at least 10 years ago . The goods shed and most of the other buildings were surfaced with Wills coarse stone. 

Incidentally, dampening the DAS a little makes it more workable. I've been using it instead of ballast to bring the groundwork up to the tops of the sleepers on the tracks leading to the loco shed on my current layout. This is intended to represent compacted ash as per Chris Nevard's suggestions in Model Rail.

David C 

Thanks, brake rigging is in place, there is enough play on the front bogie, seems to be the pony that is hard up against the chassis on occasions.

The filing the washer down (or even removing it) on the front bogie will improve the running on uneven track no end - as the front of the loco lifting will mean it is pushing down hard on the rear trailing truck and lifting the front driving wheels off the track (the early releases of the T9's suffered from something similar).

Help please!

 

Has anyone managed to remove the body from one of these locos? I managed to get it a bit less than half way towards the 45 degrees at which point the boiler is said to part company with the running plate. At this point it felt very much like something was about to snap and this, plus the warning about breaking the delicate pipework, was enough to cause me to abandon the attempt.

 

A follow on question is whether anyone has fitted a DCC concepts decoder with "stay alive" capacitor. There isn't enough room as things stand but I reckon if it were possible to shorten the installed wires in the boiler, remove the installed circuit board and solder in a Zen Nano decoder plus "stay alive", everything should fit. Getting inside the boiler seems to be a pre-requisite for that. I have no ambitions to install sound so an alternative approach would be to put the "stay alive" in the bunker, again, needing the body to be removed. 

 

Anyway, if I could only remove the body I would be able to research this for myself.

 

Many thanks in advance for any answers received.

 

Chris

 

Alton

Hampshire

You don't need to remove the body to get inside the bunker, just remove the two small screws at the bottom of the bunker space (after removing the coal load) and the cab top and rear can be lifted off leaving the body in place. You could wire the stay alive to the speaker wires in the bunker and then connect the other ends to the stay alive decoder in the boiler.

However, i don't see why you would want to fit a stay alive, the pickups on the O2 are very good, maybe your track needs a good clean.

Pleased to say 207 turned up yesterday and runs well , just wondered what chips people are using ?.

Zimo MX649N for sound and Zimo MX621N for non-sound. Both 6pin pluggable.

Writing value 5 to CV8 will reset just the sound side to avoid messing up any motor side settings you have made.

Rob