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    The bottom right-hand bit of England

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  1. My cure for errant Bachmann or Hornby metal coupling hooks is to press them back onto the pivot. If they subsequently fall off again, a judicious nip with a pair of pliers closes up the gap in the hook enough to keep it on whilst still allowing the requisite movement. There's a bit of a knack to doing it, and it only needs to be closed up by half the width of a flea's thing*, but it works for me *half the width of a flea's thing being less than the thickness of a tadpole's todger.
  2. Which may or may not have been updated when the motor was changed from the original spec ...
  3. Coming back to this thread as the OP ... An ordinary file card wasn't working on account of the files in question are either too fine-cut or are needle files. But I've now found that, as suggested above, a fine brass brush of the type apparently used on suede shoes does the job admirably.
  4. 2B pure graphite works for me https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SALE-LYRA-Graphite-Crayon-Solid-Stick-2B-6B-9B-Drawing-Sketching-Art-Draw/282600896158?var=581780744529&hash=item41cc53769e:g:dv0AAOSwCe1foaPd
  5. Thank you to those members who have done much to clarify things for me. I'm now out of this thread ...
  6. OK then, so the answers to my original questions seem to be ... 1. That's a matter of opinion. 2. Less need to use the track-cleaning wagon. 3. Use the graphite every now and then but still run the track-cleaning wagon occasionally? BTW, just for the record I don't tolerate plastic wheels (or for that matter traction tyres), I clean wheels whenever they need it, and there are no significant gradients on my railway. And ref what causes build-up of black gunge on wheels, I well remember reading a learned article (which I feel certain was linked to off RMWeb)
  7. AFAIC the theory and the practice may well be poles apart, but I do still like to understand the principle . Whatever, I can see how the application of a thin layer of graphite might aid transfer of current from track to wheel. Presumably that should lead to less arcing, which I understand to be a factor in the formation of the black gunge which builds up on rolling stock wheels. I'm therefore inclined to run a graphite stick along my thoroughly clean track then give it a week or two for any difference to manifest itself. The bit I'm now wondering about though is wo
  8. I've read all that I can find about this "rub a pencil on the track" lark, but I'm still confused. 1. How does it work? What exactly is the theory behind it? 2. If I get perfectly good running by regularly using my Zeller/Ten Commandments track-cleaning wagon, what might I gain by applying graphite instead? 3. And OK ... I get my pencil/graphite stick, and run it along the top of the rails. Then what? Obviously I stop using the track-cleaning wagon, but equally obviously the graphite treatment won't last forever, so what happens next?
  9. A switch is either an ordinary ("any old") SPDT switch or it is a momentary SPDT switch. I have nothing further to say.
  10. Indeed, but any newbie reading MrChuffer's post could be forgiven for thinking that any old SPDT switch will be fine. Hence my post But whatever, it now seems to me that the OP's problem is mechanical rather than electrical i.e. misalignment. I wish him the best of luck in sorting matters out.
  11. Just wondering ... what size/thickness is the wiring you've used?
  12. I don't underdstand. Are you saying that you're using ordinary SPDT switches to control solenoid point motors?
  13. Ref the Bachmann 2MT, the thing that's always put me off it is the yawning chasm between cab and tender. Is it much of a faff closing up the gap as much as layout minimum radius allows?
  14. Back in the days when you bought a proper ticket to journey upon the rails, the chap in the ticket office would select your ticket from the racks and then push one end of it into the cylindrical brass (?) wossname on his counter, which made a characteristic thumping sound which always intrigued me as a kid. Am I right in thinking that the device stamped the date on the ticket? And what was the Official Name of it?
  15. I have need of pipework for my 4mm/ft factory premises. Yes, there are the two "kits" from Knightwing, but I'm aware of the limitations thereof (because I have both). What I need specifically is pipes in the range 1-2mm diameter with right-angle bends in them. Has anybody found a way of reliably making a fairly tight bend in styrene rod without it "flattening" in the bend?
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