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Dave John

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    Pre grouping railways, particularly the Caledonian.

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  1. Superb atmosphere, very natural poses for the figures. I like working the chaff cutter. Making details like that function adds to the realism I think.
  2. Cheers Mikkel, Might be worth trying the Crafty paper, the stuff I had was about 6 years old if I remember correctly. Getting in to fit passengers is easy with the magnetic sides. I have a few of Andy Staddens seated Edwardians, but I think I will buy some more or try a few other suppliers and paint them over the winter.
  3. Hi Bennybob, I put considerable effort into developing a method which would allow me to work on the coach sides on the flat then simply fit them in place. Then take them on and off again as many times as I want without any difficulty. Clean the insides, move the passengers about, that sort of thing. The simple answer is magnets, have a read of the blog two back ; If you have look through the blog as a whole you will see that it is a continuing theme for me. Causes a wry smile and I do tend to waffle on a bit but there is method in my madness. I try to make models which are easily maintained, probably as a result of spending lifetime trying to sort out things which are a nightmare to maintain due to bad design. So I have buildings and stock with the roofs held on by magnets. Electrical sub assemblies which slot into place. Signals which plug in and couple to the servos magnetically. Compensation beams with screw adjustment for ride height. Baseboards that lift up like a car bonnet so I can get at the gubbins underneath easily. The whole layout on castors. All for ease of maintenance. If I needed to decorate or do serious work to the room I could remove all the delicate stuff and wheel the whole layout into a different room in a few hours. As I said I waffle on a bit, but there some useful ideas in there.
  4. Ok, a very harsh closeup. Not perfect, but better than I could do by hand.
  5. Might be worth having a go at printing a cream panel with the lining round it.
  6. I have been making slow but steady progress. When I started I knew that it would take most of the summer, so I’m happy just pottering on with it all, learning as I go along. A few details. This is the luggage rack assembly, with the mirrored compartment wall. The brackets were a very fancy design, I have simplified them as they are less than 4 mm long. Not difficult in itself, but I have 64 of them to make. Seating is provided in the kit but it is basic and needs a bit of extra work. These are the first class seats. The silhouette cut the armrests and the wings, both trimmed in lace. How many antimacassers? Well, 78 of them. An internal view. The D96 is a nine compartment third. This photo was taken in dark conditions, I wanted to see how the level of lighting looked in practice. As I have mentioned in the past painting and lining is not my strong point. I gave a couple of sides a coat of rattle can, then left them for a few days to really dry. It is “Vauxhall Burgundy Red”. Now experts would tell me that I should be using an airbrush to spray a more accurate shade but there are limitations to what I can do in a flat. I really wasn’t happy about the idea of painting all those panels. Hmm, so I decided to have a go at making lined transfers on white transfer paper. Design was not difficult, but repetitive. I had some “Crafty” brand paper, first print, awful. Ink smeared all over. Second print, worse. So I learned that transfer paper degrades over time. New white transfer paper ordered, “Mister decal paper” brand. Printed well, transfers made and applied to a paint test card. Not bad but I still felt that the white part had too much of a pink tinge from the coach purple underneath. The answer would be to paint the panel white before applying the transfer, but that was what I was trying to avoid. I sat and had a think, what if I just put an identical transfer over the first? I tried it and it worked perfectly, nice white panel with the line round it showing up well. So here is a D 94 composite side as a first example. I am quite pleased with that. I wouldn’t claim that it is as fine as that produced by an expert painter with considerable skill with a lining pen. However I am not one and this method looks the part from normal viewing distances. It is also very fault tolerant. Make a mistake cutting round the transfer, bin it, next one. Realise that a panel is a bit squint, drop of water, adjust it. Having got the techniques sorted out I can push on and do the rest, still a fair amount to do though.
  7. Most of the rule books and safety books show the horse to the side of the track, with a chain attached to the horse shunting loop on the side of the wagon. Often the rules have a direct prohibition on the use of the main coupling for horse shunting. That said, as JimC suggests, there are many photos showing the horse in the 4 foot with the chain attached to the main coupling. Not wise, if there is a bit of a slope to the track it is lasagne for tea..... Now , If I was a Board of trade inspector, with a suitable military title and a large moustache I would create a set of rules for horse working that bridge. The horse must be out of the four foot and attached to the wagon with a chain long enough for the horse on one side and the wagon on the other side to be clear of the restriction when the move is started. So , 4 yards horse, 10 yards bridge, 5 yards wagon hook. Say 20 yards. The horse can then pull the wagon with a slightly dragging brake through the bridge without danger of men or horse being caught in the narrow bit. The same idea could apply for captan working. This is a working set, one day I will find a use for them . Something like this:
  8. Hi Grafarman. Search for white 12 V pre wired 3mm LED. Lots of links , but they all look like this. Its a LED, a resistor and wires ready made. You can buy 50 for less than £10 . Connect a couple to your old Hornby controller, just in parallel. So red wires to one terminal, blacks to the other terminal. Turn the knob one way, they might light up and get brighter the more you turn the knob. If not turn it the other way. You can buy 50 for less than £10 . Ignore all the maths bit , at that sort of price just buy some and mess about a bit.
  9. Fascinating photos of Withington. That must be an orchard, apples ? The tile works is impressive too, the courtyard design round the five kilns.
  10. They look good to me Mikkel, gives a bit of height to it all and frames the scene well.
  11. Hi tubs 01. Shops with a lot of model railway items are becoming rarer. However, there might be local shops aimed at the arts and crafts market closer to you. Many of these stock modelling basics, enamel and acrylic paints, brushes, small tools and often a good range of materials such as card. Well worth finding some and having a browse around them.
  12. An interesting discussion. I don't really have much RTR, since there isn't much for my period of interest. So, not renumbering though I have changed a few as accurate documentation is published. I do however try to get wagon numbers right, though sometimes with pre grouping stock one has to make an educated guess. Is it just me that tries to get the sheet numbers right as well ? They are much more obvious than the wagon numbers. One day I'll work out how to number ropes as well.......
  13. Hi Simes, They are all scratchbuilds, mainly in styrene. Details of the builds are in the blog.
  14. Happened to me last year. I popped the gears in an envelope with a note explaining the issue back to HL. Correct gears sent back to me quickly. Good service, as Bucoops says with a lot of variety it is easy to make a mistake.
  15. Agreed Savoyard, it's not a new concept. LEGO were using magnetic couplings in the early 70s. What is neat is the use of a 3d printed link to hold the magnet. I use magnets for a lot of things. You can't solder them and the shiny surface makes them difficult to glue so having them in a fairly tight support is good engineering.
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