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Dave John

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Everything posted by Dave John

  1. There are direct replacement options available as suggested by AndyID. However I would tend to convert and take the magnetic ballast out of circuit to maximise energy savings .
  2. They are a mix Airnimal. The top cover is plastic, glued to the "glass" plastic block. the support and parts round that are thin metal , possibly a brass. The post is plastic moulded round a fine brass tube. Illumination is from a gow lamp with very long tails. I found the assembly glue to be crusty, a scrape with a scalpel took it to bits easily.
  3. Slightly off tack, but pre grouping and brick related. When Henry Dubs founded Dubs and Co. at Polmadie it was found that the ground was clay rich. He set up a brickmaking kiln from which all the bricks to build the factory were made, some surplus being sold for general construction. https://www.scottishbrickhistory.co.uk/tag/dubs/ I have spent a lot of my working life in obscure corners of historic buildings and I keep looking. Alas, I have never found one.
  4. Hi Airnimal' This is a pic of one as supplied. I have had a trawl through the internet trying to find a supplier. The link on my original invoice via ebay no longer goes anywhere, it was 5 years ago. I suspect that they may have been made by the same folk who made the gaugemaster ones, the construction is similar. Some shops still have them. https://www.petersspares.com/gaugemaster-gm813-taper-post-oil-lamp-lms-maroon-pk3-oo-gauge.ir Hope that helps a bit.
  5. Cheers Mikkel. I like making simple wagons of this sort, sometimes I think overlooked in modelling terms. The lamps were a direct from china thing through ebay. Similar to the gaugemaster ones, but a lot cheaper and in basic primer. The link from my original order now goes nowhere, but there are other suppliers. Easy to take to bits, fettle, paint and simplify a bit. This is a clip from the 1950s of an original pair at Partick Central. Took BR a while to change all the signage.
  6. I have been relaxing a bit, doing some layout maintenance and just running trains. All is now running smoothly and I can sit back and watch….. Well that was the idea. One of the problems with having a real good clean up of the railway room is that you end up with a nice clear workbench. All the tools put away tidily, the materials stocked in the right drawers. Yes, well. They say nature abhors a vacuum. I think we should change that to plasticard abhors an empty workbench. So a read of the wagon book, a look at some diagrams. Diagram 21 Loco Coal wagons. All easy shapes to cut on the silhouette, stick them together. Add a few bits of wire and brass and I end up with a couple of wagons. A pic of them in the raw state ready for a spot of primer. Compared to a photo. In the last blog Mikkel noticed the old dumb buffered pig iron wagon sitting there as the GCS passed. It is a funny wee thing, pre diagram and based on a photo. It is a bit of a pet wagon, probably the first scratchbuilt EM wagon I made way back about 1990. It really does look like wood, because it is made of wood with brass bits stuck on. The bolt heads are just spots of epoxy. Rather crude perhaps, but I’m rather fond of it.
  7. Hi Jimc. There is a comprehensive thread on using the silhouette range of cutters on here. I have learned a lot from it and now use the cutter extensively. One tip, you can get the software from the silhouette site and try it out before you purchase a cutter. Some folk use other software and import files into that, though I have never needed to.
  8. The Caledonian Railway specified a distance of 60 - 65 yards on straight runs. Like most specifications I think there would be some variance between companies and by location. Poles would also be closer together on exposed sections of line to reduce weather damage. If you are concerned about damaging them during maintenance they can be fitted in sockets. This and the previous two blogs suggests a method.
  9. Nice video Corbs. Sometimes I think modellers overdo the super slow crawl, shunting (from what I see of old film) was often carried out at a fair lick as depicted in that video.
  10. Interesting Tony. I suspect it is a Decent Models Kit by John Boyle. The etch had parts for both the NB and CR versions. Main difference was the ends and roof shape. When Drummond moved from the NB to the CR he took quite a large roll of drawings with him, so there are a lot of similarities for stock of that period. I'd agree, it does look the part so enjoy what is actually a quite rare kit.
  11. Hi Tony, just a wild guess, but there is something about the 4 wheel breakdown coach that suggests Drummond for the NBR.
  12. Take heart WM183. There are things which are nice to have, but it is not absolutely necessary to buy them. Accepted a professional modelmaker who needs to make things relatively quickly would need them , but take your time over things. A back to back gauge is a bit of metal that is 16.5 mm across. Find a bit of metal bar about 4 mm thick and about 30mm long a bit wider than 16.5 mm. Carefully file it to 16.5 mm wide. Thats will last a lifetime. Mine has. A chassis jig? Nice, but look, it is essentially 3 bits of wood. Springs for those hornblock setting rods ? Dig about the house, I think mine were off an old cassette player. My last few builds have used Mitsumi motors. Probably easy to get via amazon or ebay in holland too. They fit the high level gearbox, just remember to ask for a 1.5 mm worm. Have a go at compensation. I think it is more tolerant than a fixed chassis. Look at K22009s chassis above. That is exactly how I make mine, start with the coupling rods and work from them. This will give you an idea . High level gearbox and extender, HL hornblocks , mitsumi motor. I'd say have a go. Looks hard at first, but there is a lot of satisfaction when you get a home made chassis running well.
  13. Well, Pete is right. "Are you off a yacht? What yacht are you off of?" would be as close as you can get. It is a cartoon by Bud Neill, very popular in Glasgow papers during the 50s and 60s. Many made use of the Glasgow vernacular and perhaps influenced those famous Stanley Baxter sketches. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bud_Neill The Lobey Dosser statue is close to where I live.
  14. I'd agree flares are awkward. I think that the ends should be a curve on the flat, but the precise curve depends on how the flare is rounded. As a scratchbuilder I make them oversize and fettle to fit. ( Sometimes several times ! ) My preference when kit building would be that the etch designer makes them a bit on the long side and states in the instructions that they should be adjusted to fit. Some kit designers have a set of etched fingers to go over the gap. My solution there is to use some very thin copper foil. I have some that is about 3 thou thick which I put over the joint and then solder up. The foil supports the solder and gives it a surface to flow to and seems to reduce the tendency to crack when filing back. Very nice build so far.
  15. I was also outpriced by photoshop and purchased affinity. No regrets. All the transfers for my recent coach builds were created in affinity, as was the backscene and all the textures for the buildings.
  16. Very impressive detail for 2mm. I particularly like the coal facilities.
  17. Heh, to answer the OP. Look at the makers of components. Peco via the EMGS, C+L and Wayne Kinney are making track. Wizard, Gibson, Markits, Ultrascale and others do wheels and stuff. Most serious kit makers allow space for EM or P4 wheelsets. There are many conversion packs available for EM. So, if they think there is a market then EM is alive and well. I'll give you a tip. Do what I did way back in the 80s. Get some track and some wagon kits. Both EM and OO. stick them on a test plank. Then don't compare them to each other, compare them to photos of the prototype you want to model. Then decide which looks more realistic to your eye.
  18. Several factors Robert, including ambient temperature and supply voltage. However the intermittent starting shows that the tube is probably near the end of its usable lifetime. The short lamps always did tend to have lower lifetimes, something I observed when buying the 8W version for emergency exit signs. 100 off quantities were a regular purchase since I got into the habit of just relamping the lot before an annual inspection on several sites. Worked out cheaper than being called back to replace them as they failed. I certainly saw better lamp lifetimes from those driven by soft start electronic ballasts than switch start types, I think the latter tended to overheat short tubes before striking reducing the lifetime. All fluorescent lamps are officially being withdrawn from sale from September 2023. However, you can buy LED tubes which are a direct mechanical fit in standard fluorescent battens. They do need to be internally rewired though that is not difficult. I would not do this piecemeal and insist that where it is done a whole area are all converted at the same time since putting a conventional fluorescent tube in a fitting which has been converted for LED will cause a short and a bit of a bang. Important to label them "LED lamp only" It makes commercial sense to do this in places where there are a lot of fancier fittings. If it is just a few for a railway room I'd just swap them out for completely new fittings.
  19. There is some evidence that the bus on a bridge cliche might go much further back in modelling history than we thought .............
  20. Low walls with iron fencing on top were very common up here Mikkel, like those in the picture of Leamington, though generally stone rather than brick. Some brilliant adverts in the background too. If those popped up on RMweb folk would be copying them not complaining .....
  21. Indeed MrKirtley, 1908 was a good year for elegant 4-4-0s. So a bit further North a Dunalastair 1 with a rake of Grampian Corridor stock heads through Kelvinbank in the early evening.
  22. Very nice. There is something about good brass castings. Working with them is much more satisfying than working with whitemetal.
  23. Superb attention to detail. You have an eye for colour, that looks spot on to me.
  24. Thanks Mikkel. You are right about the lighting, it is mainly overhead and could do with being more to the front. Works for viewing but as I am learning video needs a lot more light. I still struggle with the camera, it seems to want to adjust itself even if I'm on manual mode and it seems to be interested in other areas than I want to focus on.
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