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Pikey

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  1. I think the ones I've seen on Youtube from Germany are controlled like that, but I cant for the life of me see how there's room for 3 of them - one to control the steering and another two to control the arm and bucket! The next pair of loader and logger are finished and in the hands of their delighted new owner You might just be able to see I did manage to cram the driver figure back in the cockpit, although he's a lot further forward than he should be. The logger is loads of fun I seemed to be pretty rubbish at driving it, hopefully new owne
  2. Realised I havent updated this thread for ages! I now have the first loader working and it will be off to its new owner very soon: I had to use the next size up servo, 2.2g, as the smallest one that I use for everything else just wasnt powerful enough to move the steering. So any hope of retaining the driver figure / cab detail went out of the window - the cab is now full of servo and wires, in fact the wires are bursting out of the window a little bit as well. I crammed it as hard as I dared, but there just isnt quite enough room in the engine compartment!
  3. I've not long received mine, and I have to say its really good - quite a lot better than the Carson VW offering, and I think a lot of that is down to the controller - these have a small trigger style controller much like the type you'd expect for a bigger RC car, with both trim and range control for steering and throttle channels, plus a button for a third channel (which is spare on the mini) They cost around the same as the Carson VWs, once you've paid for shipping and VAT / customs charges, and they both look better (being the right scale) and drive better too.
  4. The parcel finally arrived at the weekend Progress pictures on loader #1, I'm about 4 or 5 hours in so far (including thinking time - the other three vehicles will be much faster as I know what I'm doing now): Make hole for motor/gearbox, also drill holes for micro switch and charging socket I think the servo is going to sit approximately here, I want to get it as low down as I can because I want to retain the driver figure if possible: Make space for battery and receiver in the engine bay. I'm actually going to u
  5. So in actual fact the parcel had the wrong address on it - so it made it all the way from Germany to within about 100 yards of my house, before being returned back to Germany!
  6. Haven't got a lot to show here for the moment, but I have picked up a few commissions - to do three near identical loaders (so I'm going to make a fourth one for myself at the same time) and a crane lorry But my order from Germany has been delayed - on the UK side (obviously) so I haven't done much other than cut holes for the motors so far. Hopefully my motors and servos will arrive soon and I can show some progress.
  7. Love the Land Rover. Mine is still one of my favourite models, I'm going to try a short wheelbase version at some point What gearmotors are you using that cost £3.50?!
  8. After a pause, with not being able to get Deltang receivers, I've finally been able to get on and finish the recovery truck. I think this is about as good as a G95 motor/gearbox from Sol Expert will run, as the slow speed control isnt really there, but the top speed is about right if you want to drive along a road. For purely low speed manoeuvring the G494 would be better, but as I've said for a long time they dont really sell something in the middle of those two ratios, around 225:1 which would be absolutely ideal.
  9. Probably too steep, and I've realised this isnt quite how the real lorries work. In real life, the whole sliding bed mechanism sits on a subframe which itself can be tilted up. So the bed tilts up and slides backwards, then when the bottom contacts the ground it rolls along the ground so that its almost flat to the floor at full extension. I can probably replicate that, by building a separate subframe, but I might save that for the mk2 as I'm quite pleased with how this one works, despite it not being entirely realistic. I painted the cab and bed, and did a test assemble:
  10. How do you enter program mode with a transmitter such as that? With a stick TX, if you turn the RX on with the sticks pointing towards each other, you go into a programming mode where you can enter simple 'yes' / 'no' commands by moving the right stick up/down to cycle through all the different settings. It sounds like its programmed 1, 1, 2 and you need to change it to 1, 1, 1 for the 'centre off' throttle type. The programming list is here: http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx63a-v610-p.htm
  11. Probably shouldnt have chosen a grey car for these photos I added a pair of 2mm diameter bars to the u/s of the bed - this gives it weight for stability, plus gives a smooth track as the bed moves forwards and backwards. The bed is still engaged with the Z bracket in the second picture, so I'm hopeful that it will work as intended when I test it later today
  12. A subject I've been wanting to tackle for a while - a breakdown lorry: The back is a 3D printed recovery flatbed which I had to make narrower as it was far too wide. The plan is to have it slide off the lorry and tilt down onto the ground like the real ones do. I've made a little Z shaped bracket which will fit into a recess in the body so that when the threaded bar is turned by the motor it will move backwards and forwards, and hopefully gravity will do the rest when the bed gets far enough over the back of the truck
  13. Hello A few of you may know me from building and operating a layout called 'A Remote Depot' at a few exhibitions recently, including Warley. Chopped picture for reference below: I built A Remote Depot because I was getting more and more into making the radio controlled vehicles, and I had nowhere to drive them. This will remain as an exhibition layout, and indeed I have several booked in for this year and next. But I have a number of trains that have just sat in their boxes for too long, and I'd like to have a much larger & permanent home layout on
  14. Finished and tested on my little off road diorama : I charge £180 to build a model like this, or a normal Land Rover, or a Transit van - or anything* you want really plus £70 for an Orange TX6i transmitter. Or the Ford 400E vans are £135 and that comes with its own transmitter I've come to the conclusion that I actually like building these more than I like driving them - because once I've finished a model, it usually goes into the storage box with all the others and I move on to the next project. So making them for other people is actually quit
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