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Art Dent

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  1. Continuing from Part 1 (link here) I used the pre-wired DCC Concepts lamps (such as DML-LLBRD - £20 for 6) Going back to the coach body, the hole for the wires was made by holding a pin in a pair of pliers and heating it up in a flame. The hot pin makes a nice neat hole which is just the right size for the thin enamelled wire to pass through. It seems there was no 'standard' placement of the tail lamp - hence the two lamp brackets. Sometimes they were on the platform side, othertimes not and it was placed nearest the Six Foot. I guess they didn't have a lamp on both sides to save on paraffin - even at the expense of safety. With two lamps, if one went out you'd still have the other lamp hpwever with one lamp ... The enamelled wires from the lamp were fed through the hole and the lamp super-glued into place. This is tricky as neither the coach body nor the lamp seem to like superglue but epoxy was deemed to be too messy as it doesn't 'grab' instantly ... A 30k-ohm resistor was then soldered onto one of the feed wires (so that I didn't forget later) and glued into place inside the coach body using some more epoxy ... A slot was cut in the floor of the coach using a 1/4-inch twist drill and a small half-round needle file ... Before going any further - a quick check that everything was working. A continuity-check quickly established that pick-up from the track was virtually non-existent. The problem - blackened wheels. A quick go with some 600-grade wet & dry paper sorted that out. Notice the difference between the wheels on the left (the pickup wheels) and those on the right. Don't forget to clean the oxide layer off the wheels and flanges where they contact the track ... A picture showing the wiper contacts in relation to the rear of the wheel. Notice that one wheel has been cleaned whilst the other is still blackened ... The lamp wiring was also checked and found to be fine ... Whilst it doesn't look pretty, I had decided (since this was essentially a 'test' project) to make everything re-wireable. Thus if anything didn't work as expected or later on something broke, it would be easy to fix. The two red wires are the feed wires to the tail lamp as seen in the previous picture and will untimately go into a 'chocolate block' connecto. The resistor and large diameter feed wires are epoxied in place ... The two 'chocolate block' connectors allow for the complete removal of the interior moulding ... I also took the opportunity to fit some passengers from Bachmann Scenecraft (article number 36-408). If anyone can suggest some further figures (OO scale not HO) and where to get them from I would appreciate it as the Bachmann figures are rather expensive. I could have also painted the seats and put some travel posters on the walls above the seas, but I may do that at a later stage as I have to take the coach apart again to fit the push-button on/off switch to the bulkhead at the end of the coach (on the left of the previous picture). On later 'conversions', I have added colured seat covers (I'd found a sheet of interiors from the old Kitmaster range) and partition detailing. Here's the sheet I found ... A view of the side of the coach where the lamp is fitted ... ... and a close up showing the wires passing between bogie and coach. The wires are barely visible. Finally, the completed coach with working tail lamp fitted to a short train on my test track (my son's old 6ft x 4ft layout) ... I thought I'd got a picture of the inside with the push-button on-off toggle switch (located in the vestibule) for this vehicle - but I haven't, so here is a second Lima BSK which has had the seats painted instead of the Kitmaster treatment. and The inside of the Luggage Compartment has been painted with matt black paint ... The end of the push-button switch can be seen in this shot (it disappears with the roof on) ... I hope you have enjoyed looking at my efforts. All I need to do now is apply some weathering to finish it off and maybe apply the printed Moquette from the Kitmaster sheet and a few passengers.. A later coach takes the track feed from the chocolate block inside the Luggage Compartment and feeds it to a stay-alive (home-fabricated - link here) and a LED lighting bar. The switch still controls the tail lamp so it can be switched off if this coach is next to the locomotive. Take care, Art
  2. I thought I'd posted this on RMWeb - but apparently not! Hi everyone. Encouraged by my success at adding a working tail lamp to a Bachmann 20t brake van (see this thread), I engaged on my next project - adding a working tail lamp to a BR Mk1 Brake Corridor Second coach. As with the Bachmann brake van project, I set out to photo-document the whole process from start to finish to again encourage others to attempt this (relatively) simple procedure and highlight any problems I encountered on the way. First, a picture of the coach in question... Easing the roof off is a relatively simple matter. Located in the end corridors are two plastic clips, one each end which are easily released using a flat-blade screwdriver ... The roof and glazing then simply lift out ... Picture showing the main coach body, the interior moulding and the roof/glazing moulding ... View of the end of the coach showing the slot that accepts the roof/glazing clip. Below this is a 'porthole' window (which I plan to fit a push-switch behind so that the lighting can be easily turned off for daylight running). This picture also shows the position of the two lamp irons above each buffer. I chose to fit the lamp above the right hand buffer ... The bogies are retained by a simple split plastic clip which passes through the floor of the coach body ... Looking at the bogie my initial idea was to fit the pickups (DCC Concepts DCF-WP12) on the underside of the bogie like this ... ... however when I turned the bogie over there was an ideal recess in the upper part which is where I chose to locate the pickup ... I cut a couple of short lengths - about 3 inches/8cm - of the enamelled wire from the loco light (DCC Concepts DCP 002) as it is very fine and very flexible. This was to be used to connect the wiper to the coach passing upwards through the floor of the coach. These two lengths of wire were soldered onto the pickup wiper pcb ... A small 'blob' of Araldite epoxy was placed onto the bogie between the frames ... ... and the pickup pcb glued into place ... The feed wires were also epoxied to the bogie to prevent chafing ... Part 2 continues by looking at the coach body.
  3. Art Dent

    Dapol 08

    A bit late to the party, but I wonder if this might help... Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 (link here) you have SIX YEARS (five years in Scotland) to make a claim against the retailer for the faulty goods (scroll down that link to the section "After 6 Months" and also the section "What if your warranty has run out?", however is is up you YOU to prove that the item was faulty (which may involve getting an expert to review the item and provide a written report - probably at some cost to you). Before 6 months after purchase the assumption is that the item was faulty from the start and you don't have to prove anything. Whether you judge the time/effort and possible cost worthwhile is up to the individual. Probably not for a loco costing say £150-200 but probably worthwhils if the loco was a weathered, sound-fitted item costing up to £1000-ish Other links which may be of interest: Faulty Goods and Consumer Rights At 2015 In all cases, your contract is with the retailer and not the manufacturer (unless you are claiming under the manufacturer's warranty). Further details are in the links posted above. Hope this helps, Art
  4. STH Have a look at this post. It gives the specifications (and Rapid Electronics part numbers) together with some pix so that you can see how it goes together. Regarding the cap, yes a 16V or better still a 25V in preference to a 12V. Regarding resistors, the bog-standard 1/4 watt metal metal-film resistors will do just fine - such as these from ebay (£0.99 for 20 / free p&p) Depite what Suzie said in reply to my post, the DI202 DIP Bridge Rectifier is fine for DCC use. [DIP means 'Dual In-line Pin' - a flat, rectangular package with legs sticking out of the sides] I use it and encounter no problems. Art
  5. Art Dent

    Dapol 08

    Thanks Dave. The only thing I can claim credit for is getting David (aka Jinty) to do the weathering for me. Inside is a Zimo MX644D and ZS08AD Sound Project (from Digitrains) with a big bass reflex speaker fitted vertically behind the radiator. There's also a large-capacity stay-alive in there too as there's plenty of room inside the body. If I can find the pix of the installation, I'll update this thread with them. Art
  6. Here's my Heljan Class 25/3 - excellently weathered by David Magill. The pictures are his and are used with his kind permission. Figures are ModelU and painted by Claudia Everett. Art
  7. Here's my Dapol 57xx - excellently weathered by David Magill. The pictures are his and are used with his kind permission. Figures are ModelU and painted by Claudia Everett. Art
  8. Here's my Dapol 57xx - excellently weathered by David Magill. The pictures are his and are used with his kind permission. Figures are ModelU and painted by Claudia Everett. Art
  9. Art Dent

    Dapol 08

    Here's my Dapol 08 - excellently weathered by David Magill. The pictures are his and are used with his kind permission. Figures are ModelU and painted by Claudia Everett. Art
  10. Thanks Michael. That's on 24th & 25th October this year at Leeds Grammar School, Harrogate Road, Leeds, LS17 9NA? Herculanium Dock doesn't appear on the list of 'Layouts attending to date' although it does say 'please ignore this list' (!) Cheers, Art
  11. Hello folks, What a great layout. Back in March 2018, I asked where Herculaneum Dock was next being exhibited and I missed out on the Nottingham Show because of snow (missed York that year for exactly the same reason). Bristol was too far and of course this year we've had Covid-19. I have a DVD of the LOR (it was originally on VHS cassette) which is still available at Amazon and a book called "The Docker's Umbrella" as my mother used to use the LOR in the 50's (sadly it had closed and all but gone by the time I was born in mid-58). Any plans to exhibit in late 2020 or 2021 at all? Cheers. Art
  12. Hi, Ordered from Olivia's in the past. This was back in June 2016 so I can't fully recall the details but it was an odd transaction. I couldn't pay on-line and had to phone them up and even then there was something odd about the order confirmation. Also, their T&Cs were in breach of the Consumer Protection Act 2015, Section 29 where they said that as soon as you'd paid for the goods, they were your responsibility and if they got 'lost in the post' it was your problem. I have these details stored but not the actual payment process. Of course, they may have changed their T&Cs now (my order being 4 years ago) but it is something to watch out for. To increase your level of protection if your order is over £100, pay by a credit card and then you have additional cover under Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act 1974 (this makes the credit card company jointly liable if things go belly-up). Even worse was that I didn't get the item that I'd seen on the website and paid for! The loco in question was a lightly-weathered 92220 Evening Star. We live in Sheffield so went to the shop to collect the loco and were presented with a weathered 92220 that was so heavily weathered, the loco looked black. Luckily, the one that was shown on the website was still available, and that's the one we took home. My first (and last) purchase from Olivia's Trains. Over-inflated prices, purchasing problems, non-too friendly shop staff, and (at the time) non-compliance with the Consumer Protection Act - never again. Rails (also in Sheffield) far better in all respects (and no, I have no connection to Rails other than being a happy customer of theirs). Hope this helps, Art
  13. Hi, I don't know if this is too late to the party to help but I found some printable waterslide transfer paper on ebay - link follows. A4 Waterslide Copier Paper This means you could make up your own sets of transfers for a wagon although you may have some trouple replicating the 'Flying Box' image if you needed it. Only suitable for colour laser printers (who would've guessed) so your only problem may be finding someone who has one you can use. Hope this helps, Art
  14. Thanks to woodenhead and the link above, the TMC Heavily Weathered 4F TTS has been ordered from tri-angman. Thank you to all that have contributed - whether we have agreed or not. The above purchase closes this issue once and for all for me. Art
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