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31A last won the day on January 15 2011

31A had the most liked content!

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  1. For what it's worth I've more or less standardised on a method, applying the glue after laying the ballast. Using Woodland Scenics finest grade ballast I spread it along the line using my thumb and a soft brush. Not putting too much on; using Peco Bull Head track, I'm trying to keep the ballast top below the bottom of the rail so that you can see daylight beneath the rail; and I want to keep it off the sleeper tops. I use the soft brush to sweep the edge to make a neat cess and six foot. One tip I read somewhere was to tap the rails after you've spread the ballast, so I do this by tapping the head of the rail with a teaspoon and you can see the grains dropping clear of the rail, and settling into the bays. Then I drop Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement from a pipette; no pre-wetting, diluting or washing up liquid required. I try to put one drop in each bay (in the four foot) of the stretch I'm ballasting, Then add one drop per bay between the sleeper ends; these tend to meet up with the first drops in the four foot, and spread out towards the ballast edge. I then go back and add more drops until the track is virtually swimming as Clive says, and again as Clive says then go to bed in order to resist the temptation to go and prod at it before it's dry. That's usually all there is too it; once you get used to it, it's quicker than I've made it sound. In the morning maybe one or two grains to ping off the sleepers but usually hardly any. The other day I managed to get the glue to run underneath the moving tie bar of a set of Peco bull head points. I washed the area with clean water to dilute the glue, and put some clock oil on the moving part (nearest oil to hand) in the hope it would stop the glue from sticking to it. Kept going back and moving the points until I eventually did go to bed. In the morning to my relief all was fine! Not sure whether the oil had helped or not. Hope that helps, but I realise I've only got a few feet to do!
  2. Why was it going to Shepreth? I didn't know they worked on that line?
  3. A Meccano rod is a tight push fit, but I glued mine in with Araldite for good measure as I didn't want it coming loose and upsetting the indexing.
  4. A lot of large towns were left without railways, so a lot of valid contenders, but for me it has to be the Cambridge-Oxford line. OK the middle part never closed, and work is being carried out to reopen the rest, but sadly for me not on the original formation between Cambridge and Bedford. Under the Beeching plans it was supposed to be developed as a strategic route!
  5. This sounds like a cunning plan; looking forward to watching your progress with this!
  6. Thanks for this - an interesting topic! Were some of the Merit range originally die cast? I've got a coal man that looks very much like your 5029 (drawing) in metal. The man who came with the telephone box (5006) in a modern setting looks like someone on a mobile phone (well maybe an early 'brick' size mobile phone) ! I've long been a fan of the Hornby Dublo plastic figures; a pity these seem to have sunk without trace and from some Googling a while ago it seems they may have been made for Hornby by the people who made Subbuteo football figures?
  7. Best all round mainline diesel - Brush 4.
  8. Thought it looked like a work in progress peeking out of the goods shed on the left!
  9. Have you been making Parkside wagon kits?
  10. Thank you Adam, very kind of you to say so! Hopefully I'll have a few more pics to put up before long ....
  11. Thanks for confirming; that's a pity, the 1.5mm size was just about right, although in reality even they're slightly on the large size - I've checked and the real signal box nameboards had 4".
  12. Thank you, Tony, that does look very good. The colour of the barge boards had me pondering for quite a while I must admit. There doesn't seem to have been any hard and fast rule for it, but looking at photographs I came to the opinion that cream was more usual, although photographs of the box mine is most closely based on (Belle Isle Up, e.g. Book of the Great Northern Vol. 1) seem to show that it had green ones. I made the decision to paint them cream more or less on the hoof, as I thought there was enough green paint on the building already! Especially with the solid balcony rails at the top of the stairs. It isn't an exact copy of that box, after all. I usually use Humbrol no. 76 for the green colour on buildings which I think is quite close for new paint, but this time I thought I'd try and depict something a bit older so I've mixed the green 50:50 with Humbrol 28 (the palest grey I have); I'm not sure it's really achieved the result I was after! Without wanting to raise another can of worms, building painting colours can be a minefield. For example in the book "Sixties Spotting Days around the Eastern Region" (Kevin Derrick, Strathwood) there is a picture on p77 dated 1962 of Peterborough's North Box (as per Gilbert's layout) looking quite grubby and painted like mine; i.e. cream including the barge boards, with the framing picked out in the usual ER palish bluish greyish green, which is what I've tried to depict. On the following page there's a picture of the same box dated April 1965 in which it has clearly been repainted, mainly in white (including the framing) but with a darker green for the doors, staircase and barge boards.
  13. Thank you, that's very kind. Interesting that you've had to resort to eBay. The ones I've got the remains of are labelled 1.5mm (and seem to be that size when measured), but the smallest ones listed currently seem to be 2mm; are they different? The real letters on GNR signal box nameboards were about 4" I think.
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