Tricky

And also here are the early experiments of 3D printed fence panels....looks promising! Each panel measures a scale 8’ long x 5’ high, the post has a spigot for planting into the ground, and there is a tab on the other end that engages in a sit in the post of the next panel. They’re available on my website www.monksgate.co.uk and also at www.Intentio.co.uk.

Here’s the start of the island platform for Truro. 25mm ply ribs without a section to be left open for the building to drop in. I see, however, I haven’t posted any pics of the completed main building so I will remedy that in the near future!

It did peel off fairly easily and I thought it funny to have to remove the b;lack tape as well but still did it anyway! Printing without the vat makes no difference, subsequent layers stop short of zero by about 10mm. And the image is correctly displayed on the screen. I'm talking via email with America where I bought it from and Elegoo in China. It's quite painful though!

Strangely when I do an exposure test I do get the Elegoo logo on the screen.

Simply superb.

Oh.

Please don't apologise with basic questions - I'm very grateful for your help! The screen's protective film looks like this. I've positioned it again for the benefit of this photo but it has a hole in it. But I did zero again after removing. As I said, the plate (after finding zero on startup) subsequently doesn't descend anywhere near zero.

Yes, I removed the protective film. It's the Mars 2 Pro.

Thank you for all your suggestions. The only changes I have made are a new FEP film and I removed the protective film from the screen as it had a hole in it.

Thanks. I have another difficulty that has happened today - even though the build plate is properly zerod, when I send something to print, the plate comes down, finds zero as normal and then starts to print. However, with subsequent layers after that the plate comes up too far and doesn't come down into the vat, so layers just print on the FEP. Any ideas?!

Sorry to hijack this thread again, I posted over on a Mars thread but haven't got a response. My current problem is that although the build plate is properly set to zero, when I start to print, the build plate descends, begins the print process, but then on subsequent layers does not descend into the vat but stops short and then rises again. The result is of course that the print only forms on the FEP. Any ideas? I guess it's a setting somewhere that has got inadvertently changed? Many thanks.

I too have a Mars 2 Pro. Also experimenting with settings. With prints which have a high surface area, I also get distortion of the lower levels. I thought it might be because of insufficient supports, but maybe I need to change lift and retract speed? At the moment they are 80 and 210, with bottom lift speed of 60. Don't know how this compares with others? The bottom exposure time was also set to 35s so I've changed that to 80s to try on the next print. I also had to change the FEP as it developed a small hole and resin leaked and cured onto the screen. I managed to remove most of it alt

Today I made some modest progress on the weighing machine van. I laser cut all of the bracing pieces out of stout photo paper. I tackled the solebars first, drilling holes for the Masterclub bolts. I should say I first stuck a paper print of the bolt locations onto the solebar to indicate where to drill the holes. Then I stuck the bracing pieces on with a dot of superglue and lastly inserted the bolts. I’ve got the body sides to do next but I’ve run out of bolts!

I use real ash from my log burner, drifted on to watery pva using a tea strainer.

Just wondering what methods and equipment people use for curing?