swsjames

Realised what my problem with my Princess is. It is the tender coupler, which is marginally too low. When traversing points with nothing coupled to the tender, the drop loop fouls the point blades and results in derailment. I don't know if this is just my model, or whether they are all the same. The solution, of course, is just to remove the drop loop. The loco then seems to traverse the point work tender first OK.

I received my Princess today, coupling rods attached, and DCC fitted by Digitrains. But it proves a bit of a disappointment. Although the slow running is superb, when running tender first, the tender derails on Peco “Mainline” points. It happens particularly when running onto a point from the heel end when the point is set onto the curved toe end, and it derails when the leading axle meets the frog. Seems OK running chimney first, but my layout is an out and back arrangement with no turntables (as in the prototype!), so tender first running is unavoidable. Has anyone else had this problem? Would weighting the tender help?

My new Prince arrived today. Sadly, as I unpacked it, I noticed a small black pin knocking around in the box, and when I extracted the loco, realised it was the pin that is intended to fix the coupling rods to the wheels - consequently they were flapping around loose. So it had to go back. The loco seemed to be firmly held in the box by a number of foam pads, so I assume the pin had not been fastened in adequately. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

I am assembling a rake of Dundas Ffestiniog quarrymen's coaches, which I need to couple to my existing locos and rolling stock using Peco couplings. However, if I stick the NEM pockets onto the underside of the wagon chassis, the coupling seems too high to engage with other stock. Presumably I need to build up the seating for the pocket. Has anyone any experience of doing this, and what is the best way of fitting the couplings with minimum bodging of the kit?

Kernow have said they can send me a replacement pin. Do these screw in, or are they a push fit with a dab of glue? From what you say, it sounds as if they screw in - or out, as the case may be! If I can’t do it myself, I’m hoping a mate at the model railway club might be able to help.

rMy mark 2 Yeo, a replacement for the mark 1 whose valve gear came apart, has just failed after not much running. A pin fastening the coupling rod to the crank of the rear drive has dropped out - same problem as Stevelewis reported on Feb 5th. I can't find the pin and anyway, I doubt I could re-attach it properly if I did. Very, very disappointing.r

Has anyone else had my problem? I took delivery of 9955 “Exe” today, chipped by Hattons, and tried to run it. Terrible! At first it wouldn’t run at all, then with some jiggling, it jerked forward a few centimetres then stalled again. I have spent an afternoon coaxing it up and down a test siding with little improvement. It runs slightly better bunker-first, but still not satisfactorily. I can’t programme a long address for it either, possibly because the electrical pick up is sporadic. I think it needs to go back to Hattons unless anyone can tell me i’m doing something really silly! Incidentally, no such problem with my 9950 “Yeo” from Kernow models on the same track.

The replacement for my failed Manning Wardle “Yeo” arrived on Saturday. The pony trucks have been redesigned with hair springs to centre them after a curve. Sadly, the running is even worse than the first version on my layout, which is based on Peco 12” pointwork. It shorts on encountering every point, even my one 18” radius point. Makes a lovely item in a static diorama but any movement is precluded. It looks as if my L&B layout will have to continue to be powered by my Bachmann 4-6-0 Baldwin, which runs perfectly over all my track work. Have any others got the new version MWs to run on Peco pointwork? My concern is that I had to remove the pony trucks to install the DCC chip (turned out to be a pig of a job) and I worry I might have reassembled the loco incorrectly.

Just seen the note in this month’s Railway Modeller about the New batch of Heljan MWs. They indicate modifications to the pony trucks. Will this, do you think, alleviate the continual derailing of my first batch Yeo on 12” points? (Which the Bachman Baldwin negotiates perfectly happily!)

I am making station nameboards for my Lynton & Barnstaple layout. I've made the board out of plasticard, and have generated the enamel sign by using Photoshop on a scale drawing of the original. This has been printed on gloss photopaper and looks very like a (clean) enamel sign. The question is: how to stick the photopaper onto the plasticard without damaging either surface, and without the photopaper curling up or peeling off. Any ideas?

I am having trouble removing the body shell from my Heljan Manning-Wardle 009 tank. I've removed the 3 screws as per the Heljan instructions, but nothing will budge. I don't want to force anything for fear of damaging the valve gear!

I’ve just confirmed my order for no 590 and am looking forward to trying it on my layout. The big question is: will it cope with Peco 12” radius ,points? My Heljan Manning-Wardle consistingly derails on them!

I have been making buildings for my layout by constructing a foamboard carcass and covering it with appropriate brickpapers or styrene sheet. It is light, rigid and easily cut. Today, I had to take an ill fitting part off, and discovered that the Uhu adversive I was using to glue the foamboard components together had dissolved the foam core of the board. It weakens it and leads to distortion of small elements of the carcass. I expect everyone except me already knew this! But if you didn't, be warned. Can anyone recommend a more suitable adhesive to use with foamboard? - ideally strong and fairly fast setting but which doesn't attack the plastic foam!

My first attempt at applying static grass (on a steep embankment slope) has not proved conspicuously successful. I’d like to remove it and try again. Can anyone advise on the best way of removing a static grass layer?

My first attempt at applying static grass (on a steep embankment slope) has not proved conspicuously successful. I’d like to remove it and try again. Can anyone advise on the best way of removing a static grass layer?