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  1. I used AutoCAD for the etch artwork. There are many free alternatives that would do just as good a job, but AutoCAD I can use free through work, and it also has the benefit of loads of tutorial videos on YouTube being available to help out the newbie enthusiast! With regard to the material thickness, as DGO says, the brass parts are thinner (0.3mm) than the N/S (0.4mm) purely for ease of forming bends and curves on the bodywork. I admit that when you handle the fret as a whole, it feels pretty thin, but once everything is soldered up together, I hope it will be fine. If not, then I would imagine that having it etched as 0.4mm next time would be achievable without major redesign work. I guess I'm still feeling my way around a bit..... Basically, yes. After doing a lot of development test prints in a standard ABS-like resin, I bought a castable resin (PowerResin Zero), where you print the pieces, and then had them investment cast. Have a look here from about halfway down the 1st page onwards and you can see what I did.
  2. I've started a new thread to follow the build of the Manning Wardle Old Class i - you can follow it here if you like :-)
  3. If you followed my last build thread (https://cutt.ly/zQeImru), you’ll know I love a good Manning Wardle. For the last year or so, on and off, I have been designing etches and castings for an Old Class I in 7mm scale, a lovely little loco that was used by contractors up and down the land. This project has been slowly burning for about a year now whilst I have taught myself the finer points of CAD design and 3D printing, which I have thoroughly enjoyed, as well as being something I can pick up and put down as time permits. And yes, I know Slaters do a 7mm scale kit of a K class, which is very similar, if not the same, but that was part of the reason for choosing this prototype – can I do as well (or better?) than something that is commercially available? I like a challenge! Having sent the artwork off to the etchers, I received them back all shiny and pristine. If only they stayed like that! A week or so later the castings arrived – more about them and the process over on my 3D printing threads, but I’m fairly pleased with how they have turned out. The plan is to try and squeeze working inside motion into it – just to see if I can more than anything. That might be a step too far. Anything commercially available was too big, so I designed and had cast the necessary parts. It works, and fits, according to the 3D animation in Fusion360 that I did. But in the real world, with my less than experienced bodgings? We’ll have to wait and see. I’ve also had a go at some wheels – I had some 3/16” axels, and wanted to try printing some wheel centres for them. I used a high tensile resin, but whether it will be durable enough for repeatably pushing the axels in and out remains to be seen. A local retired engineer turned up the tyres. Below you can see my initial attempts. You may have seen my dabblings with learning the 3D modelling process on my 3D printing workbench thread, where there are a few more details about the castings and wheels and how I went about creating them. Find it here: https://cutt.ly/zQeImru Here’s everything as it arrived to me. Now to hack the frets up and see if I can remember where it all goes!
  4. And here are the castings literally fresh from the postie this morning. No cleaning up, and pips left on the prints from the supports still very much there. Generally very good quality and happy with them, although not without blemish - I'd set myself up thinking that they would come out as perfect as the prints, which was probably a bit unrealistic to say the least. The detail on the smaller parts is excellent, and all of the castings are better than some I've come across before - it’s the bigger parts where the most noticeable imperfections are. All being well, they will put the finishing touches to the model quite nicely. Now they are all here (apart from the one sprue I seem to have forgotten to print and therefore not cast - it had the expansion links and the top ends of the connecting rod to fix them to the crank shaft), I can start work on construction the model itself. I have designed the frets which are back from the etchers, so I'm all good to go! I'll start a separate thread for this though Apologies for the number of photos that follow - but we all love photos! Also bear in mind they are VERY cruel close-ups!
  5. I have also been playing with making my own wheels. I'm currently experimenting with a high tensile resin to see if it will be durable enough. I have printed a wheel centre to be a tight push fit into a steel tyre that I've had machined up by a helpful & local retired engineer. I then either file or drill a 'key' into the resin and the tyre, and fill with 2 ton epoxy. So far this method seems to keep the wheel concentric to the axel, but time will tell if the union between the wheel and the axel will be strong enough with the resin alone. My next hurdle was the crankpin - even when tapping slaters wheels for a 10BA screw, I've never had much success tapping them perfectly perpendicular to the face. So to perhaps the most over-engineered solution ever. I used the .stl from the wheel centre to create an inverted 'imprint' of the wheel into a lower 'base', and corresponding top half with a correctly sized hole to hold the tap vertical. The wheel is put in upside down in the base, and the lid put on top, preventing it from moving. This allows the hole to be tapped nice and straight. You'll all be laughing at me now as you'll use one of many ways to ensure your holes are straight, but this one seems to work for me!! The resin was a translucent water washable job, which needs using up as I don't really use it for anything. You can just about see the key at the bottom of the wheel here: And as per my previous post, the colour makes it hard to see the detail:
  6. A couple of updates..... Having fiddled and fettled the 3D CAD work on Fusion for the Old Class i, I have got them to a point where I was happy with them. I then printed them in a castable resin. I used PowerResin Zero (mainly because it was on sale!) which has produced my best quality prints yet. Incredibly sharp and detailed, just by using the recommended settings - almost unheard of! Just a few examples.... difficult to see the level of detail because it's black, but you get the idea. As the eagle-eyed will spot, I haven't sanded down the pips from the supports, and I did snap a couple of parts by not being careful enough. These have now been sent to the casters, so I should find out in a few days how well they will turn out.
  7. These models are superb! I'll be happy if mine turn out anywhere near as nice as these. I'll be interested how my castings turn out. Hopefully I'll get time to print and send them off in a couple of weeks, and then I'll post them on here. Blender was easy to learn - I only used it for putting the sprews together though, and Fusion to create the parts themselves.
  8. I'm working off a scale drawing that I've had for some time, but I'm not too sure of it's origin. It's not hugely detailed, but seems to have done the job. I've started building some of the etches and everything seems to fit quite nicely. I can send it your way if you'd like, just let me know. The Colonel Stephens Society also do scale drawings of Morus & Siddlesham which have been very useful. The bits not covered by the drawing I have used a variety of photographs for, and then scaled dimensions from known measurements. Not a perfect way of producing a model, but I've not had any luck with Statfold Barn replying to emails/messages, as I believe they are in possession of the Manning Wardle GA drawings now. If you find any more, do let me know! I'm going to print my detail parts in a castable resin, and then cast them in brass. I've refined some of the CAD work in Fusion, and reorganised all the sprews - they are now ready to be printed and sent to the casters. Pic below are just test prints in grey ABS - I haven't bothered cleaning them up after snipping the supports off. All this as soon as I get some time to do it! Work always gets in the way.......holidays soon though, then I'll have a blitz. Would love to see some of your work :-)
  9. I think I'd be tempted to tilt it 45 degrees on both the x and y axes - that should help
  10. Yes I'm aware - the one I'm doing is in 7mm scale. And yep.....I had forgotten Barclay is modelling in 4mm scale. Clearly the grey cells aren't getting any better.....
  11. Your model of the F class is gorgeous (as all your locos are). This might be a little far in the future for you, or you might be looking to scratch, but I've done/doing some etches for an Old Class i. I'm currently playing around with 3D printing the castings straight onto sprues (in a castable resin) ready to be cast in brass. This afternoon I have been playing with some parts I printed for working inside motion for it, although this is proving to be a very tight squeeze.... So a long way from being ready for anyone other than me currently, but they might be useful for you at some point - once I've built one to see if it actually works! I've just received the etches back a few days ago, and so I'll start a build thread on here. If you have followed my other builds, you'll know not to expect rapid progress though
  12. My questions keep (slowly) trickling in for the i-Class. Does anybody have any information or photos which sheds light on what kind of firebox doors they'd have had? Round, square sliding, hinged etc. Just by way of a disclaimer her, it should be noted that I keep emailing Statfold Barn who I believe hold the Manning Wardle drawings now, but so far I've had no response. Ta very muchly :-)
  13. Not sure if this is any use? It might be a bit too basic...
  14. This build has been glacially slow, but 3 years almost to the day since starting this kit (way back on page 9), Bamburgh is finally done. Ish. I think the painting and weathering is as good as I'm realistically able to do; she's depicted towards the end of her days in a somewhat unloved state, in contrast to most of her time on the Norther Sunderland railway where she was actually very well looked after. The loco runs - not perfectly though, mostly due to me bending a coupling rod (page 10) from which it never properly recovered. One day I shall scratch build another, but at the moment I don't think I could build one any more accurately than the one I've already got. Given I have no layout to run it on, she'll do for now. Weathering in the end was achieved with a mixture of the oil paints described above, and good old weathering powders. Incidentally, it seems as though the powders have a certain amount of metal in them, as the powder is drawn to the magnets in the cab roof, forming annoying circular 'clumps'. I only noticed this after looking at photos I took of the model afterwards, and it's easy enough the spread back out with an old brush. Once again, big thumbs up to Pete Stamper when he owned Agenoria models for designing such a beautiful and easy to put together kit. Now onto the the next project - a manning Wardle Old Class i which I've had a go at designing my own etches and casting for. Let's indulge in some photos :-)
  15. Progress has been a little slow recently.... not really anything to report on the inside motion, other than it doesn't look likely the tough resin will be up to the job of moving parts. It's strong enough for most parts, but the thin eccentric rods, which are only a millimetre or so thick, are still a bit too flexible. In the mean time, I have been teaching myself how to use Blender. This is another 3D modelling program, which I think a lot of gaming, jewellery and 'minis' creators use as it's really good for sculpting. I'm currently putting sprues together for the castings, which will be printed in a castable resin before being sent off to the casters. Fusion is brilliant for modelling the parts, but I find Blender much easier to arrange and place items on a sprue. Just one of the sprues below and I'll post some images of the others once they are done. Then I'll attempt to print them (just in grey standard resin first) to see if I can work out how to support them before moving onto the expensive castable resin. On another note, I can of course ask the casters, but if anyone knows where best to place the 'feeders' then let me know. Never having done it before, I've just gone with my best guess.
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