jdb82

Brass is the plan at the moment. The downside are the fumes it produces when molten, which would need extracting - whilst I'm sure I'll never be producing these in any volume, I don't want to be breathing them in! An option I want to explore is using silicone bronze - slightly more expensive than brass, but I need to experiment with it to see if solder will take to it. I'm hopeful it will as there's still a high copper content, but as of yet I've never tried. Apparently the fumes given off by silicone bronze are nowhere near as nasty (although I suspect still not good!).

Speed is not something I have been blessed with to date 😂

Version 3 of the etches arrived the other day for the Old Class i. Is there anything more satisfying than a fresh set of un-tarnished etches? Just like fresh snow.....looks beautiful as it is untouched, but lots of fun to be had making pretty things from it :-) There were not wholesale changes to be made here, just a couple of small things. I've been collecting various bits of kit over the last couple of years in order to make my own castings - all the way from 3D modelling, through printing, to finally investment casting. Very much looking forwards to the latter! I will also be attempting the inside motion once again, as well as refining the reliability of run-out on the wheels. May also try my hand at lining......

Myrtle is brilliant! Looks like you've done a good job with the lining to me :-) I followed Timber’s development of this model with interest. I'm only in Barnsley so I'll try and get to the Pontefract show and say hello. I came last year and really enjoyed it.

Total length of 153mm with buffers fully extended :-)

Bob, you are quite right. I've always tapped the crankpin holes 10BA, screwed the screw from the back of the wheel and used a bush 'in reverse' to hold the coupling rod. That works on larger prototypes, but for something this small, I think the 12BA screw and nut with the bush the 'normal' way round would be better. Another thing to add to the V3 notes :-) Keep the suggestions coming people - all taken constructively. John

Agreed - I'll keep that in mind once I've done version 3 👍

The measurement I have to hand is 17'7", but that's to the inside edge of each buffer beam if that's any help?

Thank you! Changes are minimal - a couple of holes in the wrong place and an error on one of the parts led to it being Hal-etched instead of fully etched. If it was just for me I wouldn't bother altering them, but as a number of people are interested in have a set for themselves, I want them to be right. I think more and more people are of the same opinion about the castings. If I was to produce my own metal castings, they would be 3D printed in a cashable resin, and then investment cast as the next process. As there are no moulds, the quality should be spot on each time - once I gain a bit of casting experience that is, as I'm under no illusions that there would be a bit of learning to do!

A little later than planned (is it really a year since I got the revise etches?!), but version 2 of the Manning Wardle Old Class i is finished :-) I haven't been updating the progress of this build as it would have been very repetitive from the first version I built, although with the length of time it's taken me to get it done (work is a bit all-consuming at the moment), and the fact that most of the photos were lost in "the great wipeout" of a year or two ago, maybe that would have been useful! This runs on 1/8" axels - slightly unusual for O Gauge, but it's only a tiny little thing and it means I can use a High-Level gearbox and a motor mounted vertically in the firebox. This leaves the boiler available for a (small) decoder should that be necessary. The homemade wheels are running pretty true having used a centre boss this time round. Here are some pics - I make no apology for the number of them as I'm pretty pleased with it once again! Just noticed I forgot to add the cab steps.....again. Sure I did that first time round.... So, to version 3.... Only a few minor changes to make, so shouldn't take long to do (😂). This time round, I shall experiment with split axel pickup as there's not much room for plungers, and back scratchers are OK, but can be a bit juddery. Version 3 will also see the resurrection of the inside motion, which I'm determined to get right and running smoothly. I might even give lining a go when it comes round to painting it 😱 I'll also be attempting my own castings, but more on that in a different thread somewhere. Incidentally, I'd be interested to hear people's thoughts on castings. Is the preference still for solid metal, or are 3D printed parts becoming more accepted? Once painted, you can't tell the difference - if anything 3D printed are probably sharper and crisper, but then there's the durability aspect. Thoughts on a postcard (or at least a post) below please :-) John

Giles, I've just finished building a Manning Wardle Old class i which is now ready for painting. Whilst I'm OK at the painting side of things in terms of getting base coats on (and I do not mean in in the same ball park at Haywood et al. !), the weathering I find much more challenging. This is where the really artistry comes in, and you look to have just about perfected this with your technique. I'll be giving it a try this time. I know it's going back a few years now, but can you remember what colour paint you used on the Garrett? I think if I get the weathering right, it could look quite nice on the diminutive little Manning Wardle. Cheers, John

This is looking superb! I must get round to trying some larger prints instead of just the small parts I usually end up doing. Do you find the marks from the supports under the boiler are easily dealt with?

Now seems to be a good time for an update on the iClass, as a number of people had expressed an interest in buying a set of etches and castings. Work and family life have really got in the way of quick progress, but the necessary changes to the etches have been made and the 2nd test build is well under way. The chassis has been completed, and I'm waiting on some parts to make my wheels run true more consistently. I've adapted the frames so people can decide whether to use 3/16" axles like I did first time round, or 1/8" axels as I'm trying in version 2. This will allow the use of High Level gear boxes and horn guides/blocks. I'll post some photos once the wheels are sorted and it's running.

Thanks Rosedale! The nameplates I ordered from Narrow Planet (now called Light Railway Stores I believe). They do a great selection of plates, all customisable - you do have to be prepared to wait a few weeks for them to arrive.

I have used WWS layering spray which seems pretty good - I use it for making trees too. They post worldwide according to their website, and although the spray can is only available to post to the UK, they have a non-aerosol version here which they will ship globally. Maybe worth a try. https://www.wwscenics.com/product/layering-sprays/