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    7mm Industrial locos

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  1. Haven't come across them - I'll look them up. Thanks! I'm currently trying to get to grips with making the raised/domed smokebox door. The only way I can think of describing it is a semi-circular, domed door. Tried loads of different ways in Fusion but haven't found one which is quite right yet....
  2. The Xometry version came today......not the finish I was hoping for. Probably down to my choice of material. Maybe OK if the loco has been sitting outside in a snowstorm for a few days
  3. Had the safety valve cover above printed for me from Shapeways in their fine-detail plastic, and I was pleasantly surprised by the detail. The top end of the flutings are only a fraction of a millimetre deep, and this detail has been retained. Apologies for the grainy photo......average camera-phone and poor lighting hasn't done the part any favours, so you'll have to take it from me that the quality of the print is good. By way of comparison, and purely for interest value, I also ordered one from Xometry.com which hasn't arrived yet. They don't offer the same material as the Shapeways printed one (fine detail plastic), so I chose something that's hopefully similar. I added the plinth to the 3D model before ordering from Xometry - I realised I'd left it off the Shapeways order. I'll post a piccy of that when it arrives. As previously mentioned, I want to cast these in brass, however I don't want to pay the exorbitant prices for one of the above companies to do that for me! Plans are afoot to construct a home 'foundry', where I can print in castable resin, and then cast in a suitable metal (brass or otherwise). I find a model far more satisfying if it's all metal, rather than having lots of plastic/resin glued to it. Nothing wrong with those that do make use of plastic parts.....just personal preference :-)
  4. The 15xx is quite a solid looking fella!
  5. Since my last post, I have primed the chassis and sandboxes, and they, along with the body are now waiting to get the North Sunderland Railway's light green and black livery. It might be a while before this happens - living in a small house with a young child means I can't use the compressor whilst she is asleep, and I'm generally otherwise occupied when she's awake! I shall wait for a rare moment when she is out with the grandparents and I get to stay at home..... Until then, I've started something a little different, and another first for me. A family member gifted me an NER C10 12 ton goods wagon. Not sure if anyone recognises the manufacturer from the instructions? By all accounts I think it's a fairly basic kit - for example there's not much provided by way of framework under the chassis of the wagon. I'm happy to scratch build this part, however I haven't really found much online. If anyone can point me in the direction of some photos or diagrams, I would appreciate it. I think the kit must have been laying around for a while because it was pretty grubby, and I needed a bit of good old Surgical Spirit to get rid of the residue left behind by the sellotape that attached it to it's protective cardboard in the packaging, as the small mountain of Gariflex droppings will atone to. Once cleaned up, the sides were folded back on themselves and sweated together. Next, the sole bar was folded up. Really, I could have done with a set of folding bars for this, but I don't have any.....I improvised with a block of wood, a length of brass bar and some clamps. It did the job. The floor of the wagon was next - the one provided was a piece of copper; given the rest of the kit is brass, I don't think this was the originally with the kit. Either way, it was too small so I made my own to the correct measurements. Hopefully I'll get this all soldered up sometime tomorrow and I can start work on the underside. I'm not very familiar with the various W irons and brake gear that wagons have, and although I can use the diagram on the instructions, a few extra picks would be useful! I'll have to see what I can find :-)
  6. Can you use Fusion to do 2D work as well? I just use it for the 3D building of the ‘castings’, but I’ve never tried using it for producing etch artwork. I’ll have a look and try it out sometime.
  7. That's both a very nice piece of 3D CAD work, and a lovely model to boot :-) How you do such things in 4mm scale is beyond me. Did you get anywhere with the etch artwork in the end? I'm part way through drawing mine, but have stalled a bit due to a lack of time, as well as a nagging thought that the software I'm using for it really isn't designed for this purpose. In the absence of enough money to afford Auto/Turbo/Corel CAD, I must teach myself something like Qcad instead.....
  8. Problem solved :-) Thanks to a very helpful chap over on WT who gave a perfect set of step by step instructions. I think I'd gone wrong because I did the sketch of the fluting on an offset plane which I then projected onto the 'cone' of the valve cover, rather than creating a tangent plane and doing the sketch from there. Now all I need is a 3D printer..... My next challenge, which I have yet to find a solution to, is creating the semi-circular dished smokebox door. Tried a few methods already, however I thought of a potential solution whilst in the shower this morning...I'll see what I can come up with.
  9. It's certainly beyond an FDM printer - I'm hopeful of experimenting on a friend's resin printer before forking out for one myself. I've had Shapeways print the chimney and the wheel centre and they turned out great, however the safety valve has some pretty thin parts, so we'll have to see. Oh and yes, this is in 7mm
  10. Sounds like a plan - I'll see what they say. Rather than it being the shape of the fluting itself that are tapered (although they are), I was referring to the main body of the valve cover being tapered. But now that you mention it, this could potentially be the cause - I will alter the shape of the flutings so they have parallel sides and see if that makes a difference, so thanks!
  11. I'm relatively new to Fusion 360, and am self taught through various YouTube tutorials. I understand the basics of the 3D design process, but come unstuck when things 'don't work'. Many hours are spent trawling the internet and watching semi-relevant videos, only for me to end up not much further on than when I started. So, I'm turning to the wealth of skill, knowledge and expertise we have here. I am about to delve into the world of 3D printing and want to create a few things to adorn a Manning Wardle Old Class I. So far, I have knocked up a wheel centre, chimney and the later version of the safety valve cover. Nothing too complex (though the wheel centre took me an age), but I'm happy with them nonetheless. However, it's the older earlier version with the flutings that I'm struggling with. It's meant to look something like this: (apologies that's rather small) It's the flutings that are causing me the problems. I have the basic shape of the cover sorted (I know, I still need to sort the top surface out and the fluting itself is not yet quite the right shape), and I can 'cut' the fluting into the main body of the cover. However, when I try to repeat this by using the 'pattern' feature (to get 12 of them, evenly spaced around the surface), I get an error: I think it has something to do with the fact the main body of the valve cover is tapered, getting narrower the further up you go. I tried repeating the same process with a parallel sided version and it worked no problem at all. It's driving me slowly mad, so if anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them. Just keep any replies in layman's terms, as anything too complex will fly right over my head! Oh, and once we've found a solution to this, I have another problem too (my wife tells me I have many problems) regarding the smokebox door.......
  12. Many thanks chaps - I don't have any cellulose thinners to hand, but I will try diluting with the etching thinners a little more. I get the sticking bit - I primed a piece of waste etch and have tried scratching it off with a finger nail first....this didn't even leave a mark....followed by a screwdriver. Even with this, I had to practically dig the stuff off, so I think it will achieve what I was hoping for in the long run!
  13. Managed to squeeze in a quick priming session on Friday - just the body......still need to strip down and clean the chassis. Still finding my way with the painting side of things. I need to sand down this first coat with some fine grade paper as I ended up with a couple of splatters that need removing. I wonder if someone could give me a bit of advice here...... On my only other attempt at using an airbrush on my Hudswell Clarke canal tank, I used the Vallejo model air primer. This is not an etch primer, and therefore didn't adhere to the brass as well as I'd hoped, however the finish was very smooth. This time, I thought I'd give Phoenix Paints two part etch primer a try. I'm certain this will bond with the metal far better, but I struggled to get a really fine mist and therefore it's not as smooth as I'd hoped for. Towards the end of the session, I was getting a few 'splatters'. Any advice on how to correct these issues? Am I using the wrong pressure (somewhere between 20&30psi - my compressor has no tank reservoir so the pressure decreases the longer I spray)? Or is it the consistency of the paint I have mixed? Don't get me wrong - the finish is not terrible, but it could be better!
  14. It's taken the best part of a month, but the steps have been moved, and it now runs without a problem. Even the plunger pickups seem to be doing their job! I have also played around with ways of fitting the cab roof. I wanted it to be removable, but I didn't want to go down the usual bent wire road. It might be that I'm a bit behind the times here - so feel free to stop reading here...... After a few minutes browsing on eBay, I found some very small, but very strong magnets. They are only 3mm in diameter, but very strong to the point that separating them is difficult. Even better, they were only about £1.50 for 10 of them. I bent a few pieces of waste etch, and glued a magnet to them, and then subsequently epoxied it to the top of the cab. Attaching the corresponding magnet to the underside of the roof completed the exercise. Because of the strength of the magnets, the roof is now pulled into the correct position and is held firmly in place, as demonstrated in the video below. Link to magnets: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-magnets-tiny-neodymium-discs-2mm-3mm-4mm-5mm-6mm-strong-craft-magnet-disk/162003918151?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 No connection - just a satisfied customer :-) Bamburgh has now had a good cleanup, and etch primer was purchased from Phoenix Paints at the Warley Show last weekend; priming is next on the to-do list.
  15. Wired up the plunger pickups today, and am please/pleasantly surprised by how well and smooth the running is. Forgot to take a video, so you'll have to take my word for it ;-) I also trimmed off the crankpins flush with the bush, however I have realised that the cab steps foul the crankpin bush. I must have located then fractionally too far back, so I'll move them forwards a bit, and probably just thin down the bush as well. That's for another day though - time for a Sunday beer. Apologies for the grubby state - haven't got round to cleaning up yet......putting it off until just before painting as I fear it may take some time.
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