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StrathpefferJunction

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    http://www.strathpefferjunction.com

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    Scottish Highlands

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  1. I've also just produced a weight upgrade kit for Flangeway's wonderful (other than being too light!) independent snowplough models. I've got four of these ploughs myself and I love them, but they have a tendency to jump points and come of on tighter curves. I've got an unassembled kit, which you can add your own choice/amount of ballast to, or a pre-made weights kit with around 70g of lead shot sealed inside. The main weight is a like-for-like replacement for the stock weight and the smaller front weight screws under the front fixing screw to get more weight over the front axle. In my own experience, these weights vastly improve the running performance of the Flangeway plough, particularly in push/shunting mode. Many thanks
  2. Just a wee update... To keep in my existing range of Lima motor kits company, I have now designed some simple to use ringfield motor upgrade adaptors for Hornby, which can fit 6v or 12v CD motors (depending on the model). They're dead easy to use and depending on the kit can negate the need to irreversibly drill out the bogie, as is required for the 'hot glue' approach. I have also just released a couple of brand new O Gauge Lima motor upgrade adaptors, allowing for the fitting of a chunky 18mm motor. These are my most straightforward to use ringfield adaptor yet, and make breathing new life into an old Lima O gauge Class, diesel shunter or SNCF BB 67000 an absolute doddle! You can grab kits from my eBay listing or via my website. Just search for 'Strathpeffer Junction O Gauge Kits'. Any questions? I'm always happy to help! Thank you
  3. Yes, it's absolutely doable and really quite easy. I did a video on it last year, plus a number of diagrams, in case they're of use/help...
  4. Hi folks. I developed a 3D-printed ringfield motor for my own Lima locos back in the first half of 2018 and put up a video about the on my YouTube channel. After receiving a number of requests for me to make them available for others, I decided to set up a website and shop, and make some available. The adaptor kits make the process of converting the ringfield motor and upgrading to a CD drive motor all-but plug and play. Aligning the shaft and gears is straightforward and the adaptor negates the need for glue. In the case of the Lima kits, the conversion process is also completely reversible. You can see the installation steps in a range of videos here on my YouTube channel. Depending on the kit, they either come with 6v motors (which it's recommended you use a diode voltage dropper with or use cv5 tweaking) or 12v motors (which are good to go). I also provide full, detailed instructions and I'm always happy to help with any queries via email. If you're interested, you can find the adaptors here: www.strathpefferjunction.com/ringfieldadaptors Many thanks indeed. David
  5. Ah, so it is as I feared, then. I'm not sure what the detail is (a filler cap or poor point or something?), but it's a clanger. Looks to me that they've got something revered on the pad printing setup and no one has noticed. Given it's got two colours in involved (red and white), it's probably quite a fundamental equipment set up error. But that aside, everything about these shouts sloppy job. Even on the better ones, there's under spray and over spray, unsmooth application and so on. If I compare them to my mint Hornby mk2s, they're visibly poorer quality. I actually feel pretty bad for Hornby, because this is the last thing they needed...and I'm still awaiting my Class 43s back from them which, despite being nice models, had a faulty tts decoder (which again wasn't an isolated fault and, so I'm told by my supplier, was down to shoddy components being used at the factory in China).
  6. Hmmm. I'm normally a big fan of DCC and TTS sound, but I'll not be buying this. I think the selection of sounds is a bit odd and I just don't see that van sitting anywhere on my layout. I'm sure it'll float some folks' boats, but not mine on this occasion. I'll be interested to see what the uptake actually is when it's released.
  7. I received my Dunrobin Castle at the beginning of the month. It's a beauty of a model and runs really well. Thank you to all involved...it's happily sitting amongst its stablemates at Strathpeffer Junction's Fodderty TMD
  8. I'm a big fan of Hornby's Class 43s, but I've been really disappointed by these Mk3s. Every one I have has notable livery application flaws. I'm not talking about the odd picky wee thing or detail I wish they'd included, it's basic manufacturing flaws and they're notably poor next to all of my other Hornby MK3s and M2s. One of the biggest flaws is on one side, where the printed detail appears at the opposite end of the coach to the moulded detail it's supposed to be applied over. It's like this on the SO and FO coach, so I'm fearful that this error will be replicated across an awful lot of them, if not all. I've bought and been happy with lots of Hornby models over the years, but these are visibly poor in comparison and, given all of the bad press of late, you'd really think they'd have gone all out to make sure that these models were of acceptable quality.
  9. This is an excellent thread. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skills.
  10. I just want to say thank you to those who put this list together. It's an excellent resource. Top job!
  11. Hi Stewart. Many thanks indeed for the input. I have stripped it down completely and run it with only the drive gear in place; no difference. If you spin the motor by hand, you can hear the click. Remove the brushes, no click. I have looked at the gab between the commutator pads, but nothing looks rough. The only thing that I can see is a slight warping of the commutator - very slight - but it seems to coincide with where on the rotation of the armature the clicking noise occurs. I'm not sure if it's phenolic material that's under the copper, but whatever it is, I think it may be the culprit. Never come across this particular issue before and I've looked at quite a lot of these in my time. Had me stumped!
  12. Thanks, folks. Some good suggestions. I'll take a further look this week. Much appreciated.
  13. I'll definitely check that out tomorrow thanks John. They're not new, but very little wear. It's hard to know with these old ringfields how much to keep trying or just accept it for what it is.
  14. Unfortunately not. They're the correct ones and a good fit. I've never come across this before, as normally they, by design, slide over the gap between the commutator poles. I'm wondering if could be some delamination between the copper and the (phenolic?) material below, providing for a tiny lip? But, if so, it's very slight.
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