WIMorrison

Place the loco on the programming track and read CV1, this will give you the decoder address. To get the manufacturer read the value in CV8, you can use the NMRA ID for the name of the manufacturer

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Firstly, why are you using 28 Speed Steps? You should be using 126 these days. Secondly, if you use a Zimo decoder then you can set the voltage provided to the motor independently of the setting in CV5 which allows you to tame excessively fast locos but still get a decent range of speed steps - especially using 126 speed steps ;)

another interpretation of CV123 is that it is a Boolean value i.e. on or off. It may be that 32 switches the dimming on, and that 0 may switch the dimming off. However altering the brightness will not overcome the effect of the camera frame rate. You can see a similar effect with single LED lights in many cars, or around the house. Where a matrix of LEDs is used it may be less apparent. Why do LEDs flicker?

You can try adjusting this value CV123 upwards from 32. The max is probably 254, and that will be very bright.

LEDs flicker when 'filmed' due to the strobing effect caused by frequency of the frame rate on the camera and the frequency of the LEDs. The Mk1 human eye cannot see it because it happens too fast and our eyes have a persistence of vision that cameras do not. It is extremely common, the better cameras have techniques to get around it.

That seems pretty definitive to me, and would be inline with Hornby's previous history of developing something that sort of meets the standards (XpressNet in this case) but when it doesn't they are not really that worried because they want to operate in a walled garden, which for clarity means that they want everyone to remain completely within the Hornby environment and interoperability outside the Hornby walled garden is not something that they will invest time, money or interest in.

CV8=4 followed by CV8=6 will change the the value of F03 to F06 to normal operation and CV8=3 followed by CV8=5 will change them back to logic-level.

Only other option is to speak to Roco support and tell then everything that you have tried. I have found them extremely helpful, though sometimes they can be a bit slow in responding.

If your locos lose contact on curves or turnouts then you have a problem. The reason the contacts are springy is to allow for the side to side movement and you should never lose connectivity between the wheel and the contact.

that is why I said in my earlier post to set CV3 and 4 to zero …

You can check pickups on the bench using DCC in exactly the same way that you use DC - no difference, but you may want to make CV3 and CV = 0 before you start to ensure that the locos run without the extreme inertia characteristics that are often used. I assume the second DCC statement means DC? In which case you need to read CV 29 and add 4 to the value that you read. You can check the setting by using this link. (if the value already in CV29 shows that DC running is already enabled then you would appear to have an issue. DCC CV29 Calculator (2mm.org.uk)

What is it you need to know - I don’t see any questions to answer 😞

You do not use the YDF7001 Wi-Fi, you use a wire from the YD7001 to the router and then to the rest of your network. The YD7001 only works as an Access point for phones, multimice, etc. If you want to use Wi-Fi to connect the YD7001 then you need to bridge between the Wi-Fi routers. This is what Karst and I have described.

What are you ‘bumping’ - I have you the same information that Karst sent you.

You can get a full trial licence for iTrain by asking for one from iTrain@berros.eu. You will be granted 60 days for the Professional version. After that period the licence used to revert to limited ‘free’ licence however I think that has been discontinued. The different licence versions are shown here; https://www.berros.eu/en/itrain/pricing.php

That means you have a lot of devices 'visiting' and consuming IP addresses, probably for short periods, with the result the 'residual' devices are being forced to use addresses higher up the 'stack'. I would check the DHCP Lease period and also flush the pool to get rid of dead addresses.

The signal won’t degrade but you will almost certainly suffer a significant voltage drop across the connection and if all the locomotives are at the far end of the layout from the controller they might not work due to voltage drop, or damage the connectors which are not designed to carry tyat much current.

A router doesn’t randomly assign addresses from the pool. When a totally new device requests an address a specified sequence of events happen which results in the next free address starting from the beginning of the address range is issued out. This is also issued with a lease period which is commonly 24hrs or 30 days in home routers. The next new device is offered the next address, etc. At 50% of the lease period an attempt is made to renew the lease using the same IP Address for the same MAC. If it is free then the lease is renewed for another lease period. The router keeps a list of the MAC and IP addresses that have been used, but are now free, for a period and then eventually releases them. This retention of addresses and issuing of new addresses can quickly consume the available DHCP range, especially with the number of devices in households that use IP these days. Between phones, computers, televisions, and all the other white goods you can quickly allocate 50 to 100 addresses due to the retention period. The effects of IP conflict can range from service denial to the two devices with the shared addresses to network collapse when devices use the so called ‘Smart IP’ because all the devices try to avoid each other and find there isn’t enough address space to stop the conflicts happening. This is why all routers that have DHCP allow static addresses to be issued to network devices - they don’t implement the functionality because they are nice people, they implement it because it is vital to ensuring a network operates correctly.

Even easier is make sure that the DHCP pool starts above 192.168.x.128 which is the case for many home routers. Another common pool starts at 192.168.x.64 which will require alteration. When railway IP range is 192.168.0.x-254 and the home is on 192.168.1.0-254 then you could make the subnet mask 255.255.254.0 for everything and just have one large network - but I wouldn't advise that 😉

There is no such thing as DCC ready, or even DCC turnouts. You can wire turnouts for better reliability and performance that will improve their use on DC as well as DCC - indeed many people were wiring turnouts in the manner now called 'DCC Ready' 60 years ago (and probably more, I can only vouch for 60 years) and long before anyone had thought of DCC.

IRRC ideally you need a 4p4c connector at each end with pins 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, 4-4 but you may be able to use a 6p4c connector using the centre 4 connections.

You need to use an external Wi-Fi router to enable this. You can make the SSID and password the same as the main house router. You don't use it as a router - just as a Wi-Fi enabled switch, and ideally give the LAN an address on your house network. The functionality was removed on the YF9401 upgrade because it was a significant security risk in the DR5000 that could not be mitigated and it was therefore removed to allow the wi-fi provide safe communications within the household.

@Ron Ron Ron Unfortunately a z21 doesn't have a CDE connection which is why I didn't mention it , and I don't know if NCE does.

B-Bus is not a standardised connection and different manufacturers implement it differently. There are converters available from Roco to allow connection from B-Bus to other systems such as Massoth and older LDT boosters. I also know that the Roco B-Bus works with other European boosters, such as Digikeijs DR5033 or the YaMoRC YD7403. Your other option may be to write to Roco and NCE to find out what the pinouts are for their B-Bus implementations and then create a specific cable.